
Class. 
Book 




:atsjsii.i. TFAT.T.S- 



rn;-: 

NORTHERN TRAVELLER 

I ' 

^COMBINED WITH THE NORTHERN TOUR.) 

CONTAINING THE ROUTES TO 

NIAGARA, QUEBEC, AND THE SPRINGS. 

WITH THE 

TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND, 

AND THE ROUTE TO 

THE COAL MINES OF PENNSYLVANIA. 



Embellished with 19 Maps and 11 Landscapes. 

THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND EXTENDED. 



NEW- YORK: 
PUBLISHED BY G. & C. CARVILl. 






Southtrn District of Ntxo-Yorle, ss, 
BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the 19th day of May, in the 
fifty -second year of the Independence of the United States of Anoer- 
ica, G. k C. CARVILL, of the said District, have deposited in this 
office the title of a hook, the right whereof they claim as Proprie- 
tors, in the words following, to wit : 

Tht Northern Traveller ; (combined with the Northern Tour.) Con- 
tnitdng the Routes to Niagara, QueheCf and the Springs, with the 
T'our of Ne~M England, and the Route to the Coal Miiies of Penn- 
sylvania. Embellished with nineteen Maps, and eleven Landscapes, 
Third Edition, revised and extended. 

In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United States, entitled, 
*' An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies 
of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such 
«;opies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to an Act, 
entitled, "■An Act, siipplemcHtary to an Act, entitled an Act for the 
encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of AJaps, Charts, 
and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the 
times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the 
arts of designing, engraving, and etching iiistorical and other prints." 
FRED. J. BETTS, 
Clerk of the Southern District of Nev>-YorJr, 



Danfopth & Penfold, Printer 



FKEFACK 



111 preparing the Third Edition of the '■'- JVorthern Tra- 
veller''^ for the Press, exertions have been made to render 
it as useful as possible to those for whose hands it is de- 
signed. The original plan has been adhered to, of in- 
troducing all new routes which are in a condition to be 
visited by travellers, and noticing all improvements ef- 
fected or proposed, giving to each a degree of attention 
proportioned to its interest. The " Northern Tour," a 
work deservedly esteemed by the public, and the only 
one in the country formed on a similar plan, has now- 
been combined with the " Northern Traveller," which it 
is believed will be found nearly complete as a guide to 
strangers visiting the principal routes in New-York, Penn- 
sylvania, New-England, and Canada, during the present 
year. 

Among the embellishments will be found views of the 
Catskill Falls, the Trenton Falls, and the Delaware Wa- 
ter Gap, not inserted in the former editions. The num- 
ber of copper plate engravings is eleven, and of maps 
jiineteen. 



GENERx\L INDEX 

To the Third Edilion of the JS'orthern Traveller, 

Page 

Cily of JVeiv-York 7 

From New- York to Niagara 13 

" " to the Springs 13 to 44, then 115 

" " to Canada ' do. do. 

" " to Connecticut River and ) a^n 

the White Mountains ) 

" '■ to Boston do. to 240, then 287 

Oily of Philadelphia 366 

From Philadelphia to New-York 391 

" " to the Coal Mines 376 

City of Boston 297 

From Boston to the Springs 306 

'' " to the White Mountains 309 

" " to Maine 336 

City of Washington 355 

City of Baltimore 360 



NEW CANAL ROUTES. 

[Those navigable, or expected to be so, 1828, are printed 
in italics.] 

Blackstone CanaU 291 

Chesapeake and Delauare Canal 371 

Delaware and Hudson Canal 24 and 385 

Farmington Canal 237 

Lehigh "Canal 386 

Morris Canal, (to begin at Powles' Hook, p. 11, and 

extend to Easton,) 385 

Oswego Canal 58 and 92 

rcnnsylvania Canal, (iiavigable to Lancaster) 373 

Rideau Canal , 196 

Union Canal 379 

Wetland Canal 79 



Vi GENERAL INDEX, 

VIEWS FROx^I NATURE. 

Catskill Falls (to face the Htk) 

Scenery on the Mohawk River 47 

Trenton Falls 52 

Niagara, from below the Catai'act "72 

Ballston 133 

Saratoga 142 

Lake George 156 

Ticonderoga 169 

Mount Hoiyoke 261 

The Notch"House, (White Mountains,) 326 

Delaware Water Gap 384 



BIAPS. 



General Map ol the Routes , 5 

iludson River, No. 1 14 

No. 2 18 

No. 3 24 

No. 4 and Canals to Schenectady 

and Sandy Hill 30 

l-lrie Canal, to Herkimer 46 

to Salina 59 

to Rochester 62 

to Lockport 66 

to Buffalo 96 

Lyons, and road by Geneva^ Sec 103 

Syracuse, and road by Auburn 105 

From Fort Edward to Whitehall and Lake George 152 

Lake George and Lake Champlain 165 

i^ake Champlain 179 

St. John's to Montreal.... 183 

Island of Montreal 195 

St. Lawrence River, from Montreal to Quebec 200 

Connecticut River, from Hartford to the Moutli... . 210 



Draivii ior tier ,. en 



ThrH 







l1/ 






irR^c 







THE 

NORTHERN TRAVELLER, 



THE CITY OF xNEW-YORK. 

Hotels, and Boarding Houses. Mansion House, 
(Bunker,) 39 Broadway. City Hotel. National Hotel. 
Franklin House. American Hotel. Washington Hall, 
corner of Broadway and Reed-street. Park Place House. 
Mrs. Southard, Mrs. Mann, Mrs. Keese, &c. There are 
also the U. S. Hotel, Tontine, Bank and N. Y. Coffee 
Houses, Tammany Hall, Pearl-st. house, N. Y. Hotel,&c. 

The stranger is advised to purchase a pocket map 
of the city, if he is to remain here a few days ; as 
without it he will often find himself at a loss, and 
with it can go to any part with confidence. 

The Battery is a pleasant walk in warm weather; 
and Castle Garden has a fine promenade. On sum- 
mer evenings the place is supplied with music, arid 
often fire works. 

Broadway, the most fashionable promenade in the 
city, is most crowded with passengers between 1 and 
3 o'clock ; or in hot weather, after dinner. Going up 
it from the battery, you pass the Bowling Green., a 
splendid new Hotel called the Adelphi House, many 
genteel boarding houses, particularly the Mansion house, 
Grace church, and Trinity church. 

The property of this church is very great, lying in 
large tracts of land now covered by the city streets. 
Opposite, opens iVaU-streef, which contains most of 
the hanks., with the Branch of the U. S. Bank, to- 
gether with numerous Insurance and Brokers'' Offices. 

The New-York Exchange. This building is of 
white marble from "Westchester, and fronts Wall-street^ 



d CITY OF NEW-YORK, 

between William and Pearl-streets. It has fourinar- 
ble columns in front, made of single shafts. The 
Exchange room is large and resorted to by merchants 
between 1 and 3 o'clock. The building contains the 
Post Office on the ground floor, the Commercial Reading 
Rooms above, with several Insurance Offices^ and offices 
of Daily Papers. There is a Telegraph on the top to 
communicate with Sandy Hook, to get early intelli- 
gence of vessels. The view from the cupola embraces 
the whole city. 

Returning to Broadway, beyond Trinity church is 
the City Hotel ; opposite, the JVational Hotel ; and a 
little further. Cedar and Cortlandt-sfrcets., leading west 
to the docks on Hudson River, whence the Albany 
steam boats start. At the latter street is also the Jersey/ 
City Ferry — Is. 

The Franklin House, corner ofDey-st. and Broad- 
way. Fulton-street leads to Fulton Market-, on the 
east river. (There is the lower Brooklyn ferry , 4 
cents ; at the next dock below, are the Newport and 
Providence steam boats ; and just above, the steam boats 
for Flushings JVorwalk^ Stamford, Bridgeport, Stratford, 
Saybrook, Hartford, New London, and Norwich. The 
sleam boats for New Haven will also be found here, or else 
at the foot of Roosevelt-st. For the " Route from New- 
York to New-England," see Index.) 

St. Paul's Church in Broadway is next above Ful- 
ton-street. Just beyond, is Paff's exhibition of Pic- 
tures, then the Park, on the opposite side of which, is 
the Theatre, and the Bible Snci€ty''s Depository in the 
rear. In the same street (Nassau) is the American 
Tract Society^ building. Park Place, on the left, leads 
to Columbia College ; and the City Hall is in the 
Park, with the Debtors'^ Prison on the east, and Bride- 
well on the west. Murray-street leads on the left to 
Hoboken ferry — Is. Peak's Museum. 

The New-York Institution is behind the City 
Hall, with Scudder's fine Museum, the Gallery of Fine 
Arts, Historical Society, Mr. TrumbulVs and Mr. Dun- 
h/p's Painting Rooms^ the Deaf and Dumb Asylum. 



CITV OF NEW-YORK. « 

The Savings'* Bank directly opposite. Next these is 
the Panorama Rotunda, and opposite the Manhattan 
Water Works. Adjoining the latter are the New-York 
Baths, the Arcade Baths, and the Picture Gallery of the 
Society of Arts of Design. Chatham-street beyond, leads 
to Chatham and Bowery Theatres. 

Next beyond, in Broadway, is Washington Hall; 
and two or three streets above, Masonic Hall, and the 
JVew-York Hospital. 

This fine broad street, continues about a mile and a 
half further on, perfectly straight, and nearly all built 
with brick houses ; but contains no public buildings, ex- 
cept a new Gothic church. 

There is also in the city an Orphan Asylum. 

A fine part of the city lies north-west from the hos- 
pital, about Hudson square. The streets are there more 
regular, and the square itself is very fine, with St. John's 
church in front, which has the tallest spire in New- York. 

Among the other public buildings, which it is not 
easy to point out more particularly, are the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, and the numerous places of pub- 
lic worship in all parts of the city. These amounted 
in 1824, to 84 in all, and are now above 100. The 
State Prison, Penitentiary, Fever Hospital, House of 
Refuge for Juvenile Delinquents, Lunatic Asylum: these 
are all at a distance from the centre of the city. 

Public Schools. The Public School Society have 
eight large brick houses in different parts of the city, 
averaging about 42 by 85 feet in size, valued with 
their furniture, at about ^150,000 ; and the encum- 
brances, for money borrowed, about ^'50,000. About 
5000 children are educated at these schools, most of 
whom pay a small sum, from 25 cents to ^^1,25 per 
quarter ; but none are excluded who are unable to 
pay. The schools are furnished with maps, globes, 
libraries, &;c. and a uniform system, after the Lancas- 
terian plan, is adopted in them all. Two of them are 
for Africans. The High School receives scholars in 
higher branches. The Sunday Schools deserve par- 
ticular notice for their usefulness ; also the Mechanic 
Society's School. 



10 CITY OF NE-\V^YORK. 

The Athenaeum is a literary institution lately form- 
ed. The City Library is large, and there are others 
belonging to the Societies of Merchants' Clerks, Ap- 
prentices, &c. There are Circulating Libraries at sev- 
eral of the Bookstores in Broadway. 

The Fire Engines are remarkable for their beauty 
and excellence, as the Fire Department is for its effi- 
ciency and usefulness. There are 42 engines, besides 
two Hook and Ladder companies. 

The City Hall contains the common council cham- 
ber, with portraits of Washington, Hamilton, Jeffer- 
son, and Thompson; the court rooms, police office, &;c. 
&c. The top commands a fine view of the city ; and 
access may be had on applying to the keeper. 

The Liverpool, London and Havre Packets are 
fine vessels, and some of them among the most ele- 
gantly furnished ships in the world. They lie at dif- 
ferent docks in the east river; and the Liverpool sail 
on the 1st, 8tli, 16th, and 24th of every month, and 
returning, leave Liverpool on the same days. The 
letter bags are kept at the bar of the Tontine Coffee 
House. — 6d. for every letter. 

Excursions. Numerous pleasant excursions may 
be made from New- York in various directions. Man- 
hattan Island affords several agreeable rides ; and also 
Long Island and the neighbouring parts of New-.Tersey, 

Prince's Linnjean Garden at Flushing. The ex- 
cursion to this beautiful garden and nursery is very 
pleasant. The Steamboat leaves Fulton-street Slip at 
hours particularized every day in the newspapers, and 
affords a view of the most interesting parts of the East 
River ; including the famous rapids at Hell Gate. The 
village is small but pleasant. The garden of Mr. Prince 
will supply strangers of taste and science witli rare 
seeds, plants, flowers and trees, and has already done 
much to introduce useful and beautiful varieties into 
this country. It was first established about the middle 
of the last century. 

The 4 hot houses contain about 20,000 plants in 
pots ; and the garden covers at 30 acres. The spe- 
f'ies and varieties of trees and plants amount to about 



THE iilORIllS CAN'aL, IT 

15000, which is considered the most numerous collec- 
tion in America. The proprietor exerts himself to ob- 
tain all the native productions, as well as all interesting- 
exotics, and for specimens forwarded to him he offers 
to make satisfactory returns from his own collection. 
He had, in 1827, 127 varieties of apples, 202 of pears, 
cherries 76, plums 139, and peaches 84. 

The Navy Yard, at Brooklyn. See '•'■East River.'''' 
Bath, Rockaway and Gravesend, on Long Island, 
and Long Branch, in New Jersey, fine situations on 
the seacoast, are among the most attractive for batli- 
ing, <kc. 

Orange Springs near Newark., and Scholev's 
Mountain. 

These are very fashionable resorts during the warm 
seasons, particularly for visiters from New- York. The 
situations are very pleasant, in variegated tracts of 
country ; and afford a most agreeable retreat, with fine 
air and good accommodations. 

TO THE COAL MINES. 

A stage coach goes in a day from Powles' Hook to 
Easton. (See East on.) 

THE MORRIS CANAL. 

This Canal will offer a new and direct route to the 
Anthracite Coal Mines at Maucli Chunk, Penn. 

It will leave the Hudson river opposite New-York 
city at Powles' Hook. After passing through the low 
grounds it reaches an elevated tract 50 feet above it., 
up which it rises by an Inclined Plane. Boats are 
about ten minutes in being drawn up by machinery. 
The old road through Newark marshes will make a 
towing path. 

Dover is a village which lies a little beyond ; and at a 
short distance the canal rises to the summit level, which. 
is su])plied, for ten miles, from a pond. Not less than 
b2 



12 CITY OF NEW-YORK. 

twenty miles of the whole route, the canal runs 
through narrow ravines, between high ridges of granite, 
which abound in valuable minerals, heretofore trans- 
ported by land to a distance to be wrought. 

With the exception of the Mountain Ridge, the land 
through which the Morris Canal passes is fertile and 
populous. The whole rise and fall upon the route 
amounts to 890 feet ; and this is overcome by inclined 
planes, instead of locks ; at as little expense, it is declar- 
ed, as the lockage of 250 feet would cost. 

JVewark is one of the most beautiful places in the 
state. The Canal winds thence to Patersoiu where it 
passes along the rocks below the falls, through ex- 
pensive excavations. It crosses the Passaic above the 
Little Paterson Falls, on an arched stone aqueduct, 50 
feet span. 

When it leaves the Passaic, it runs a few miles in 
the valley of Fompton river, then through a rougher 
country to Mayville, where it rises 140 feet by two in- 
clined planes. Thence to Boonton Falls on Rockaway 
river, and up another 80 feet. The river has a fine 
fall, well dammed, to supply to the canal and several 
mills. At Dover are iron works. At Rockaway is a 
plane rising 52 feet. (See Index.) 

There is a Direct Road to Buffalo through Ithaca. 

The following list of books and maps is given for 
those who may wish for more details concerning the 
northern states than we are able to furnish in the 
present summary view. 

BOOKS. 

History of the New-York canals. 

Smith's History of New-York. 

Picture of New-York and Stranger's Guide. 

Dr. Dwight s Travels in the New England states 
and New-York. 

Professer Silliman's Short Tour to Montreal and 
Quebec, in 18mo, 



CITY OF NEW-YORK. 13 

Van Rensselaer's Geological Survey of the Canal 
Route. 

Hibernicus''s Letters on the New- York Canal. 

SpalFord's Gazetteer of the State of New- York. 

Spatford"s Pocket Guide to the Canal Route. 

Gazetteers of New Hampshire, Massachusetts and 
Vermont. 

Yates and Moulton's History of New-York. 

Description Topographique de la Province du Bas 
Canada, avec des remarques sur la Haute Canada, et 
sur les relations des deux provinces d'Ann^rique. Par 
Joseph Bouchette. 

M.IPS. 

Eddy's Map of the State of New-York. 
Vance's Map of the Western part of the same. 
Goodrich's Map of the Hudson River. 
Bouchette's maps of Canada. 

ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

The elegant steam barges Lady Clinton and Van 
Rensselaer are convenient, safe and agreeable, and 
are recommended, although several hours longer on 
the passage. 

The following steam boats ply between New-York 
and Albany. North America, Independence, New Phil- 
adelphia, Albany, Victory, Sandusky, Sun, Olive Branch, 
Bristol, Constitution, Constellation, and Chief Justice 
Marshall. 

There are also others to intermediate places. Most 
of the Troy and Albany boats, however, stop or touch 
at those places. These boats lie about the docks from 
Cortiandt to Cedar-street. 

There is some difference in the charges of the boats, 
but the accommodations travellers will find on board of 
them are generally good, except when they are too much 
crowded with passengers. Strangers wiii generally pre- 
fer the large ones, because they are furnished with an 



14 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

upper deck, called the promenade, which is sheltered 
from the sun by an awning, and affords a much more 
uninterrupted prospect, as well as better air. As two 
or three will go every day, and the traveller can choose 
better for himself, it is unneces.-^ary to make any 
{\irther suggestions, except that ladies particularly will 
prefer the barges, unless they are too much crowded. 

The Henry Eckford runs to Albany with two boats 
for freight. Passage ^1. 

The number of Steamboats going out of New-York 
in 1827, was nearly as follows : — 

On the North-river, including Albanj^ and Troy, 26 

The Philadelphia Lines, 4 

Ferry Boats, 5 

35 

On the East-river and Sound, 15 

Ferries and Staten Island, 10 

Total, 60 

Beside these there are several in ordinary ; and a few 
building for other places. 

Cautions. If luggage is sent by a porter, ask him for 
his number^ so that if he is negligent or dishonest, he 
may be reported at the police office. It is best to go to 
the steam boat ten or fifteen minutes before the time of 
departure, to avoid the crowd which always collects at 
the dock. 

PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON RIVER. 

On leaving New-York, the traveller finds himself in 
the midst of a fine and varied scene. The battery lies 
behind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams 
projecting beyond ; still more distant opens the passage 
called the Narrows, with Staten Island on the right, 
leading to Sandy Hook and the Atlantic Ocean, which 
is 22 miles from the city. On the west side of the bay 
are Bedlow and Gibbet Islands, with fortifications ; the 
point at the mouth of the Hudson is Powles' Hook, ou 
which stands a small town in New-Jersov called Jersev 



JVorth 




h-yr^M ,,/■ rlv N< 



■*W-xter Street, ce/: ot\Ftdfon.- W n....h^, E„.,rN.Y. 



FORT WASHINGTON. 15 

City ; and the village of Pioboken is seen a mile or 
more up the river. The hills of Weehawken appear 
beyond : as the boat moves rapidly on, it passes the 
crowded line of buildings in Washington-street, the 
State Prison^ and the North Battery. 

At Weehawken, under a ledge of rocks facing the 
river, and about the distance of 3 miles from the city, is 
the spot where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a 
duel with Col. Burr. A monument of white marble 
was erected to his memory on the place ; but it has been 
removed within a few years. This is the common du- 
elling ground for combatants from the city, and many 
lives have been lost on this fatal spot. 

The Palisadoes — a remarkable range of precipices 
of trap rock, which begin near this place, extend up the 
river on the west side 20 miles, to Tappan, and form a 
singular, and in many places an impassable boundary. 
In some places an old red sand-stone foundation is seen 
below ; but the great mass of the rocks presents the 
mural precipices of the trap formation, and rises from 
the height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. 

The eastern shore of the river opposite the Palisa- 
does, is for many miles handsomely rounded with hills, 
and presents many scenes of cultivation, which con- 
trast with the rude clifis on the left. The soil is infe- 
rior ; and the wood land encroaches too much upon the 
fields and orchards. 

The Lunatic Asylum, about 7 miles from the city, 
is a large building of hewn stone, occupying a com- 
manding situation. 

Harlaem Heights are a short distance further. They 
form an elevated ridge across Manhattan Island, on 
which a line ot fortifications was thrown up during the 
Revolution and the late war, quite over to the East 
river. 

Fort Lee, on the west side of the river, is situated 
on the brow of the Palisadoes., more than 300 feet above 
the river. 

Fort Washington was a fortress on the top of a high, 
rounded hill, on the east side of the river, 12 miles from 



16 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

New- York. In October, 1776, when Gen. Washington 
had evacuated the city ; and, subsequently to the battle 
of White Plains^ (for which see just beyond,) had drawn 
off his army to Fort Lee, Fort Washington was kept 
garrisoned, contrary to his advice ; and was attacked in 
four divisions. The Hessians and Waldeckers, under 
Gen. Knyphausen, went up the hill on the north side ; 
Gen. Matthews on the east, with the English light in- 
fantry and guards, intended against the intrenchments, 
which reached almost to the East river. Col. Sterling 
made a feint of crossing that river lower down, while 
Lord Percy with a very strong corps was to act against 
the western flank. 

The Hessians suffered much from the riflemen in pass- 
ing a swamp, but succeeded, with the other divisions in 
driving the Americans into this fort, where they all sur- 
rendered, to the number of 2600 men, including militia. 
They had lost very few ; but the British lost about 800. 

Fort Lee was immediately evacuated; but the British 
crossed so speedily at Dobbs's Ferry, that they took the 
artillery, military stores, baggage, and tents of the 
American army. 

Battle of White Plains. In October, 1776, soon 
after the American troops evacuated New- York ; while 
General Washington had his army assembled at Kings- 
bridge, and the British were in possession of the island up 
as far as Harlaem, General Howe came up the East nver, 
with an intention of surrounding the Americans. He left 
his German corps at New Rochelle, and marched for the 
high ground at White Plains, several miles east of the 
Hudson, to seize the interior road between the city and 
Connecticut. 

Washington penetrated his design, and entrenched 
himself on the west side of the small river Bronx, with 
his right on Valentine s hill, and his left on White Plains. 
He had garrisons near Harlsem, at Kingsbridge, and Fort 
Washington. Skirmishes were kept up till the British 
approached very near; when Washington assembled all 
his troops in a strong camp on the heights near the plains, 
with the Bronx in front, and on the right flank, and a 



STATE PRISON AT SINGLING. 17 

mountainous region in the rear. The right was more 
accessible ; and General M'Dougal v^as sent to entrench 
liimseif on a mountain about a mile in front. 

On the morning of October 28th, the British advanced 
in two columns: the right by Gen. Chnton, and the left 
by Gen. Heister. The former took post on the Mamaro- 
neck road and the latter on the Bronx, — the armies being 
a mile distant. Col. Ralle with a Hessian regiment fell 
upon Gen. M'Dougal in flank, while Leslie attacked him 
in front with a brigade. The militia soon fled, but the 
regular troops resisted until overpowered. The British 
determined to wait; and on the following morning, find- 
ing the American position much strengthened, and a 
height in the rear occupied by the left wing, sent for more 
troops and erected batteries. Washington, therefore, re- 
tired to North Castle; and soon after, securing the bridge 
over the Croton, and Peekskill, crossed the Hudson. 

FouT Independence, on the east side. Opposite the 
Palisadoes are of still greater height. 

DoBBs's Ferry, 10 miles. 

Tarrytown, 3i miles. This is the place where Major 
Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to Gen. Ar- 
nold, and on his way to the British lines. The place was 
then neutral ground, as the Americans and English lay en- 
camped above and below. The tree was recently stand- 
ing under which his captors searched him, and the bank 
near by had concealed them from his view as he approach- 
ed them. 

The State Prison at Singsing, is in a quadrangle of 
nearly 44 feet by 480. It has a double stack of cells built 
back to back, 4 tiers high and 200 on each tier: in all 800. 
9 feet distance is the outer wall, which supports a gallery 
running all round ; size of the cells, 3 feet 6 inches by 7 feet, 
and 2 feet door way. The whole work was done by con- 
victs, and a great part is of hewn stone. The system is 
the best — that of the Auburn prison. 

The Singsing prison is in plain view from the steam- 
boats, being only a few feet from the shore. The excel- 
lence of this system of prison discipline, which is the in- 
vention of Mr. Lynds, the superintendent, (formerly su- 



18 KEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

perintendent at Auburn,) consists in its cutting off all in- 
tercourse among- the prisoners. They are separately lodg- 
ed, and though they work together, they cannot converse, 
even by signs, and therefore can concert nothing, and not 
contanainate each other. 

The Entrance of the Highlands, is a short distance 
beyond this place, and 40 miles from New- York. This 
is a region no less remarkable for the important military 
events of which it has been the theatre, than for the gran- 
deur and nobleness of its natural scenery. 

Stony Point. The httle rough promontory on the 
left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands, 
was a fortified position during the American war. The 
British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it again 
the same year. 

Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side, was also the 
site of a fort ; but is now ornamented with a handsome 
private mansion, and the rocks near the landing are taste- 
fully variegated with a lawn, an arbour, and many fine 
trees. 

FOUT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON, 
5 miles. 

These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, on the 
6th of October, 1777. His object was to co-operate with 
Gen. Burgoyne, at that time closely watched by Gen. 
Gates near Saratoga, and to afford him an opportunity 
to force his way to Hudson river, by effecting a diver- 
sion in his favour. For this purpose Sir H. Clinton had 
left New- York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the 
fleet, and landed at Verplanck's Point. The next morn- 
ing a detachment was sent to Stony Point, and marched 
round m the rear of these forts, then under the command 
of Gen. Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 continental 
troops, part of whom were unfit for duty, and a small 
number of militia. 

Gen. Putnam, apprized of the landing made at Ver- 
planck's Point, and supposing the object of the expedi- 
tion to be Fort Independence, had crossed the river, and 
made preparations to oppose them. He did not disco- 



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WKdT POINT. 1^ 

ver their real intentions until he heard the firing- at forts 
Montgomery and Clinton, which are near each other, and 
were attacked at the same moment. The fighting be- 
gan between four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and 
lasted till dark, when the Americans having lost about 
250 men, the forts were surrendered; but all the garrison 
who were able, about 450, effected their escape, with the 
governor and his brother Gen. James Clinton. The 
British, proceeding to West Point, removed the chain 
which had been stretched across the river to prevent the 
passage of their ships; and a part of the fleet, under Sir 
James Wallace, went up to Kingston, with Gen. Vaugh- 
an and his troops. Although they foimd the village de- 
fenceless, the officers ordered it to be burnt, on the 13th 
of October. The British proceeded no further than that 
place; for the news of Burgoyne's surrender being re- 
ceived a few days afterwards, the fleet returned to New- 
York. 

Anthony's Nose. This mountain, (which has a pro- 
file resembling the human face,) rises 1228 feet from the 
river, directly opposite the mouth of Montgomery Creek, 
looking down upon forts Montgomery and Clinton. Be- 
hind the latter is Bloody Pond, where the bodies of those 
were thrown who v/ere killed in the defence. 

The Catskill Mountains are in sight, a part of Con- 
necticut, the Green Mountains, with a noble view dowa 
the Hudson, extending to New Jersey, and Harlaem 
Heights, Long Island Sound, &;c. Even the Lunatic 
Asylum in New York, can be discovered. 

As the steam boat proceeds, several points are observ- 
ed projecting into the river, some distance above; and 
West Point makes its appearance on the left hand, with 
the ruins of Four Putnam elevated on a commanding 
eminence, a little beyond 598 feet above the water level. 
The view it commands over this wild and mountainous 
neighbourhood, as well as its connexion with our history, 
will render it worthy of a visit. There are still three or 
four subterraneous rooms to be seen, and the place is so 
often visited, that the path is plain, and leads to most of 
the principal objects within it. This fortress command- 



20 NKW-VORK TO ALBAN1 . 

ed at once the river above and below West Point, and 
the passage into a defile wliich opens through the moun- 
tains westward. That defile was farther defended by 
numerous little batteries and redoubts on the peaks 
around it. The summits near Fort Putnam (then Inde- 
pendence) were also occupied, but were not fit for exten- 
sive works, although more elevated. During the war a 
fort stood on the opposite side of the river, called Fort 
Constitution. 

Kosciusko's Retreat is near this place, and the spot 
is still shown where he cultivated his little garden. 

WEST POINT. 

This was a military position of great consequence in 
the war. A battery was erected on the extremity of the 
point, just oA'^er the river, to command the channel, while 
a strong iron chain was stretched across from the shore 
below, to the opposite side. On the east side of the ri- 
ver is Cold Springs behind it is the West Point Foundry^ 
owned by Major Kimberly of New- York. It is the best 
in the United States, and worthy of attention. 

The Military Academy of the United States 

is located at West Point; and a more dehghtful situation 
for such an institution could hardly have been selected. 
It is designed for the instruction of young men destined 
for the army; and secondarily for maintaining the mili- 
tary science of the country. The Academy was estab- 
lished in 1802 by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the 
instruction of Cadets. The number of pupils is confined 
to 250 ; and in choosing from the applicants, the sons of 
revolutionary officers are allowed the first claim, and 
those children of officers of the last war whose fathers 
are dead, the next. In 1825, there were about 30 profes- 
sors, instructers, and assistants. Some of the Cadets af- 
ford assistance in instructing, for which they receive ad 
ditional pay. The law prohibits admission under four- 
teen years of age. 



WEST POL\T. 21 

The level on which the buildings of the institution are 
erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the ap- 
pearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The 
annual expense of the institution to the United States is 
^'113,000. The sum paid for the education of a cadet is 
about $330 per annum. The library consists of a large 
and valuable collection of books, on the various branches 
of military science, which have been obtained with great 
assiduity and no small expense from Europe. 

The buildings belonging to the nistitution are five; all 
large, and built of stone. There are, besides, six brick 
buildings for the officers and professors ; near the water, 
some old military store houses, which contain arms, &:c. 
used in the revolution. The barracks were lately burnt. 

The course of study is completed in four years, each 
being devoted to a class; and includes the French lan- 
guage, drawing, natural and axperimental philosophy, 
chemistry and mineralogy, geography, history, ethics, and 
national law, mathematics in the highest branches, and 
lastly, artillery and engineering. 

Study concludes each day at 4 P. M. and is succeeded 
by the parade, which lasts till sunset. 

One of the particular spots worthy of attention, is Col. 
Beverly Robinson's mansion, on the east side of the river, 
which was niade the head quarters of the several officers 
who were at different periods invested with the command 
of this important part of the country. 

In September, 1780, while the British held possession of 
Hudson River up to the borders of the Highlands, and 
General Arnold was in command here, a correspondence 
was carried on by him with the British officers, on the sub- 
ject of surrendering his post into their hands. To bring 
their designs to a conclusion, it was determined that a 
meeting should be held. 

Andre was sent under cover of the night from the sloop 
of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw 
Bay, to a place which had been appointed for the confe- 
rence. A man by the name of Smith had been sent on 
board by Arnold, under the pretence of negotiating about 
an honourable treaty with Great Britain, and he accom> 



ii:ii NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

panied Andre to the foot of a mountain called the Long 
Clove, on the west side of the river. Here they found 
Gen. Arnold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, accord- 
ing to appointment. 

Daylight put it out of the power of Maj. Andre to pass 
in safety the posts at Verplank's and Stony Points. He 
was therefore obliged to retire to Smith's house, and 
change his dress for a disguise. 

General Arnold had furnished him with a pass under 
the name of John Anderson ; and on the following eve- 
ning he set out by land, accompanied by Smith as a 
guide. They rode that night to McKoy's, after going 
eight or nine miles; and the next he spent at Pine's 
Bridge, over Croton River. Here he parted with Smith, 
and proceeded alone six miles, when, as he had passed 
the American lines, and was approaching those of the 
British, he was discovered by three men, who were con- 
cealed from him behind a bank; and one of them sud- 
denly stepping from under a tree by the road side, seized 
his horse by the bridle. They found in his boots a de- 
scription of the works at West Point, with returns of all 
the forces of the garrison, in the hand writing of Arnold. 

This happened on the 23d of September. A messen- 
ger was immediately sent to General Washington ; and, 
at Andre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold 
to inform him that Anderson was taken. Tiie latter 
messenger arrived first; and Arnold, as soon as he learnt 
the truth, rushed down a very steep bank, sprang into 
his boat, and ordered the rowers to take him on board 
the Vulture. 

On the 29th of September a board of officers was ap- 
pointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sentenced him 
to suffer death as a spy. Objections were made to this 
sentence, on the ground that Andre had been introduced 
into the American camp under the passport of one of our 
officers ; but the dehvery of Arnold being made the con- 
dition of his release, and that being refused by the Bri- 
tish, he was kept in prison until the 2d day of October, 
when he was hung at the town of Tappan, where his 
body was afterward interred. 



FI3HKILL MOUNTAIN. 2o 

A few years since the British government sent to this 
country to obtain his remains, which were removed to 
England, and placed in the family vault of the then 
Prince Regent. A cypress tree which grew over his 
grave was likewise removed to the garden of the present 
king. The roots of this tree were found to have twined 
themselves about the skull. In 1827, the corporation of 
New- York erected a monument over the grave of Pauld- 
ing, one of his captors. 

At leaving West Point, the traveller will observe seve- 
ral remarkably high mountains on both sides of the river, 
for which he is referred to the Map. Putnam's Rock 
was rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June 1778, by a 
party of soldiers directed by Gen. Putnam. 

Newburgh. — This is a town of considerable size, six 
miles beyond the Highlands, with some handsome build- 
ings. Here begins the Stage Road leading from the ri- 
ver to Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, and commu- 
nicating, by a steam boat, with the great western turn- 
pike at Cayuga Bridge. 

Newburgh is advantageously situated for the eye of 
one approaching it, as it stands on the declivity of a hill 
which slopes handsomely to the shore. Haifa mile south 
of the village is seen the old stone house in which Gen. 
Washington had his head quarters when the celebrated 
" Newburgh Letters" came out. 

A coach runs daily to Goshen, near which are the 
Chemunk Springs. 

FisHKiLL Mountain. — The summits called North and 
South Beacons, which rise opposite Newburgh, at a dis- 
tance of 4 miles, command a fine view over the surround- 
ing country and the river, which appears, interrupted by 
the Highlands, like a number of lakes. It has been pro- 
posed to erect a house there for the accommodation of 
visiters, and the place affords a convenient garden spot, 
with a fine stream, which would furnish a supply of wa- 
ter for baths ; and a little to the east, a cavern, which 
always contains a quantity of ice, even in the warmest 
weather. Fort Putnam is in siaht. and it is said that 



NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 



land may be seen in seven different states. Many villa- 
ges, as well as the river, are included by the view. 

Mattawan Factory, Fishkill. It stands near 
the river, and directly opposite Newburgh. It was com- 
menced in 1814, belongs to Messrs. Schenks, and gives 
employment to about 300 persons, with 50 power looms, 
&c. 1,000 or 1,500 yards of cotton are manufactured on 
an average from the wool every day, principally stripes 
and ginghams. There is an extensive machine shop 
connected with it. 

PouGHKEEPSiE is worthy of a particular description, 
as it is a place of considerable importance, and has a 
singular situation. There are three or four rough and 
rocky projections on the shore, which break up the 
streets of the village, and are partly occupied with houses 
and gardens. The etfect is peculiar. 

For several miles beyond, the shores are of a regular 
alevation, but are cut through by several streams, which 
afford a little variety, as wharves are usually constructed 
at their mouths, wliere a sloop or two receive their car- 
goes of timber or produce for New-York. 

Kingston. Here begins the Delaware and Hudson 
Canal, opened in 1827. (^ee Index.) 

Saugerties. Here is a large manufacturing place es- 
tablished by Henry Barcklay, Esq. of New-York. By 
a large stone dam on Esopus creek he obtains a supply 
of water at a fall of nearly 50 feet, which may be twice 
used on great wheels. The canal or sluice conducts it 
about 200 yards through rocks 65 feet high. Here is a 
mill for paper on the latest English mode, making it in 
a continued sheet. The iron rolling and puddling mill 
is 169 feet long, rolls 200 tons a week, and can do double 
that work. A cotton mill and a hotel were to be com- 
pleted in 1828 ; and the traveller will find great attrac- 
tions there in the near and distant scenery. 

THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

As the traveller proceeds, he observes the distant 
ridge of the Catskill mountainx, which limit the view 
north and westerly for many miles, and form a granc? 



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CATSKIL.L, MOUNTAINS. 2o> 

feature in the scene. They no where approach nearer 
to the river than 8 miles, and in some places retire 15 
and even 20. 

An excursion to the summit of these mountains is 
performed by great numbers of travellers ; and indeed 
has become so favourite an enterprise, that it may very 
properly be ranged among the principal objects in the 
great tour which we are just commencing. The visit 
may be accomplished in one day, though two or three 
may be agreeably spent in examining, at leisure, the 
grand and beautiful scenery of that romantic neighbour- 
hood. There is a large and commodious house of en- 
tertainment erected at the Pine Orchard, one of the 
peaks of the mountain, about 3000 feet above the river. 
It is visible from the steam boat, and the ascent to it is 
performed without fatigue, in private carriages or a 
stage coach, which goes and returns regularly twice a 
day. 

The place to land for this excursion is Catskill, v;here 
begins a turnpike road to Ithaca. Taking the stage coach 
here, for $\ you proceed towards the Pine Orchard, pass- 
ing a good inn at the distance of 7 miles, and then be- 
ginning the ascent, which is surmounted by a winding 
road that affords much wild scenery and many a glimpse 
at the surrounding country.* Five miles of such travel- 
ling brings the vister to 

The Pine Orchard. This is a small plain, 3000 feet 
above the river, scattered with forest trees, and fur- 
nished with an elegant house of great size, built 



* The forests of this mountainous region furnish immense 
quantities of the bark used in tanning leather ; and not less 
than 23 Tanneries are in operation in this county, which sup- 
ply about four fifths of the leather annually inspected in 
the city of New-York. (Edwards' large tannery is in the 
town of Hunter.) Water power is advantageously intro- 
duced to aid in some parts of the process ; and the custom 
has been adopted of soaking the bark in heated water. 
More than 155,000 hides were tanned in Greene County in 
1826, valued at more than .$400,000. 



!ZS NEW- YORK TO ALBAW. 

for the accommodation of visiters, and excellently 
kept by Mr. Webb. Tlie Hudson is seen winding from 
afar through its verdant valley, its margin adorned with 
villages, and its surface enlivened with vessels of various 
<lescriptions. Immediately below is seen a region of 
uncultivated mountains, which is strikingly contrasted 
with the charming aspect of fertility that reigns be- 
yond, and presents all the variety of hill and vale, town, 
hamlet and cottage. 

The Pine Orchard is the resort of so much company 
during the pleasant seasons of the year, that the attrac- 
tions of its scenery are redoubled by the presence of 
agreeable and refined society. Individuals of taste and 
leisure, and still more, parties of travellers, will thus of- 
ten enjoy a gratification which is rarely to be found in 
a place naturally so wild and difficult of access. 

The Round Top is a summit of greater elevation to- 
wards the south, from which the view is more extensive. 
It is 3,718 feet above the ocean. 

On the west side of the river is seen part of the coun- 
ties of Albany, Greene, Ulster, and Orange ; and on the 
east, part of Putnam county, and all of Dutchess, Co- 
lumbia, and Rensselaer. The distant high land in the 
east belongs partly to Taughkannuc and Saddle Moun- 
tains, in Massachusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green 
Mountains in Vermont. Lower down is discovered a 
range of hills in the western counties of Connecticut. 
The eye embraces a tract of country about 100 miles in 
length, and 50 in breadth ; and a large part of it is sup- 
posed, by geologists, to have formed the bed of a great 
lake in some long past age, when the Hudson was 
thrown back by the barrier presented at the Highlands, 
before the present chasm had been cut for its passage. 

Nearly opposite is seen the old Livingston Manor, 
which is one of the few great aristocratical estates ex- 
isting in this part of the country. It originally contain- 
ed Clermont, (14,000 acres,) the Manor (146.J0OO,) and 
East Camp or Palatine, (6000.) This last was settled 
by exiles from the Palatinate in the reign of Queen 
xVnne. 



CITY OF HUDSOX. 2( 

The Cascades. There is a singular and highly ro- 
mantic scene which has been intentionally reserved for 
the last. A path leads through the woods to the cascades, 
passing near two small lakes^ from which the supply of 
water is derived. Carriages may generally be procured 
to take visiters to the spot. 

The stream flows through the woods to where the 
level termmates, very abruptly, at a high and shelving 
precipice, descending into a tremendous gorge between 
ridges of gloomy mountains. The first fall is 175 feet, 
and the second 80 : both perpendicular, without a single 
protruding rock to break the snow-white sheet. 

A building is erected where refreshments may be ob- 
tained ; and on the right is a steep path by which even 
ladies may descend in safety to the foot of the falls. 

There is a cavern under the first cataract, where the 
shelving rock shelters the stranger from the spray, and 
throws a dark shade around him, which sets off, in the 
most beautiful manner, the wild scenery below. The 
cavern is formed by the wearing away of the sandstone 
rocks, while the stratum of grawacke remains upim- 
paired. 

At a little distance the stream takes its second leap 
into a dark abyss ; and from a rock at that place, it is 
seen rushing tumultuously along over a steep and rocky 
channel, winding between the bases of the mountains 
until it gradually sweeps away toward the south, and 
disappears among the rude scenery that surrounds it. 

After gratifying his curiosity and taste with scenes 
like these, the traveller will return to Catskill to take 
the next steam boat ; and by making the necessary ar- 
rangements, he can proceed up the river with very little 
delay. 

THE CITY OF HUDSON, 5i miles. 

This is one of the largest and most important towns 
on the river, and occupies a commanding eminence on 
the eastern bank, v/ith several ranges of large stores 



28 NEW-YORK TO ALBANY. 

built near the water's level. On the brow of the ascent 
from the water is a favourite promenade, from which a 
charming view is enjoyed of the river and the opposite 
Catskill mountains. The western shore is variegated 
and beautiful, and contains the village of Athens. 

It may be recommended to the traveller who wishes 
to visit New Lebanon Springs, to land here and take the 
stage coaches. In 1827 this route began to grow very 
common ; and it was estimated that 1200 travellers 
passed tiirough Hudson every week of the travelling 
season. 

Two daily lines of stage coaches are now established 
between Hudson and New Lebanon ; and travellers leav- 
ing New- York in an evening boat, sometimes reach the 
latter place the next day before dinner. 28 miles. 

The Union road to New Lebanon, is a good one, and 
passes through a varied, well cultivated and agreeable 
tract of country. Stage coaches go from Bryan & Smith's 
inn ; and parties can at any time be furnished with 
comfortable carriages. Stage coaches go daily to 
Lenox, Stockbridge, Pittsfield, &ic. At Egremont, they 
exchange passengers with the coaches for Sheffield, 
Harttbrd, and New Haven. 

At Hudson carriages may be engaged for Catskill 
mountains. 

The Columbia Spring is a place of some resort, and 
the water is considered effectual in cases of scrofula. 

There are extensive manufactories of Cotton, Calico, 
&c. &c. m this vicinity. 

Claverack is a pleasant village a few miles from 
Hudson. 

The Great Falls is a romantic cascade, about 9 miles 
from Hudson, near the old post route. A stream is pre- 
cipitated down a precipice of dark rocks, into a deep 
chasm, shaded with forest trees, and presenting a most 
picturesque and striking scene. The place is lately vis- 
ited every season by numbers of travellers ; and it is to 
be regretted that there is no house of entertainment in 
the vicinitv. 



Kl.NDLRHOOK. Xiy 

There is a large manufactory about 250 yards from 
the cascade, owned by Mr. Philips. A path leads thence, 
along the high and steep bank of the stream, to the foot. 
The ascent to the top of the falls is also accessible, and 
affords another line view. The whole descent of the water 
is said to be about 150 feet, and it is interrupted only by 
a narrow rock projecting 20 feet from the precipice 
about half v\'ay down. The basin which receives the 
stream is large, deep and gloomy : being surrounded by 
high hills that tiie sim falls into it only during a short 
time about noon. The finest view is perhaps from the 
side of the basin opposite the falls. Above the cascade 
the bed of the stream is strewn with rude blocks of 
slate, 20 or 30 feet across, which are channelled by the 
water, and in some places piled together so as to form 
little caverns. 

[For New Lebanon Springs, see page 32.] 

KiNDERHooK. Survcys have been made at the ex- 
pence of the Legislature of Massachusetts, of a route 
for a railway from Boston to Springfield, and by Castle- 
ton, near this place, to the Hudson. The route cros- 
ses the Kinderhook creek about a mile above the village 
of Kinderhook, and passes an extensive plain. It comes 
through Stockbridge, Mass. The survey has been ex- 
tended along the Hudson to Greenbush, to communicate 
with the canals. The state of New-York is co-opera- 
ting. 

Various plans have been proposed, for the improve- 
ment of the navigation of this river, and some have 
been attempted. Nearly ^^ 150,000 have been expended 
since the year 1797, about §30,000 of which was by the 
state. 

The OvERSLAW, 4 miles from Albany, is a place 
w'here the large steam boats are obliged to stop when 
the river is very low. A small steam boat is then sent 
down to take out the passengers and luggage ; and, at 
the hour of departure, comes with the passengers for 
New-York. 



30 CITV OF ALBAXV. 



ALBANY, 145 miles from New- York. 

Inns. Rockwell's Mansion House, in North Market- 
street ; Skinner's ; Cruttenden's, on Capitol Hill ; Bam- 
man's. South Market-street ; and Fobes's, near the 
steam boat wharf. The best houses in Albany are large 
and well kept, and the stranger will find excellent ac- 
commodations, provided the city is not too much filled 
by the session of the Legislature, or some other extra- 
ordinary occurrence. The charges, however, are very 
high in this city, and form a mighty contrast with the 
moderate demands for food, lodging, &c. in the inns 
along the course of the canal, and in the canal boats 
themselves. 

Routes from Albany. Stage coaches run daily to- 
wards all the four cardinal points ; and six or eight fre- 
quently set off in the same direction. Indeed the num- 
ber is often much greater than this when the full crowd 
of travellers is pressing towards the Springs. By steady 
travelhng, you may go to Buffalo in three days, 296 
miles. Two or three steam boats go daily to New- 
York ; small packet boats go on the canal to the Junc- 
tion, 8^ miles ; and a large and convenient one used to 
go every day to Schenectady, 28^ miles, but it is uncer- 
tain whether it will be continued. The circuit and de- 
lays occasioned by the locks, make the passage consume 
a whole day. The freight boats of the Transportation 
Companies are very numerous, and have been fitted up 
very comfortably for passengers, and convey them at a 
less price than the regular packets. 

For the Route to Niagara, see page 38. For other 
routes, &;c. see index ; also " Remarks" at Ballston 
Springs. 

The Capitol, or State House, occupies a command- 
ing position, and contains the Assembly and Senate 
Chambers, the Supreme Court, the County Court, &c. &:c. 
It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 high. On 
the opposite side of the river is Greenbush, famous for 
more than a century as a cantonment ; and the now de~ 






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CITY OF ALBANY. tJi 

serted lines of barracks are clearly seen from the State 
House. This is the first point worthy of notice, con- 
nected with the colonial wars against Canada. At 
Greenbush, the troops supplied in quotas by the eastern 
colonies, used to meet those of New- York ; and hence 
they proceeded, under commanders appointed by the 
British government, against their enemies in the north. 

The Academy, just north of the Capitol, is a large 
institution for the higher branches of education. 

Albany received a great impulse during the late war 
with England, on account of its local position : but 
peace brought with it a fatal stagnation of business, the 
effects of which are still apparent in some parts of the 
city, although the more natural and wholesome pros- 
perity which already begins to flow in through the ca- 
nal, has done much to obliterate them, and greatly to 
increase the lower part of the city, particularly near the 
river. Population in 1825, 15,954. 

Mineral Spring. A spring, obtained by boring in 
the lower part of the city, enjoyed some celebrity for a 
time, which it has in a great measure lost. 

The boring of the spring showed slate rock to the 
depth of 500 feet. Haifa pint of this water contains 
14 cubic inches of carbonic acid, and 40.5 grains of 
saline matter, as follows : 

Muriate of soda, 31.5 

Carbonate of soda, 2.5 

Carbonate of lime, 2.0 

Cabonate of magnesia, 3.0 

Carbonate of iron, 1.5 

40.5 

Upon comparing the above results with the analysis 
of various springs at Saratoga, it appears, that the wa- 
ter under examination does not essentially differ from 
them. The quantity of salts in the latter is nearly as 
great as that in the Congress waters, which are pre- 
ferred by many persons to all the springs at Saratoga 
or Ballston. According to Dr. Steel, the amount of sa- 



32 NEW LEBANON SPRINGS. 

line matter in a gallon of that water is 676 grains, and 
of carbonic acid 343 cubic inches ; and if the above 
analysis be correct, the present water contanis, in the 
same quantity, 648 grains of these salts, and upwards 
of 230 inches of carbonic acid. 

The Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank, and the Alba- 
ny Bank, both at the foot of State-street, are handsome 
buildings of white marble ; and the latter is lighted by 
a glass dome. State-street deserves to be mentioned, 
on account of its remarkable breadth and fine appear- 
ance. The Museum is in South Market-street, For 
the Basin, see page 37. A Railroad is to be constructed 
to Schenectady. 

There is a fine Waterfall about 8 miles from Albany, 
in a south-west direction, which has recently attracted 
many visiters, on a branch of Nordman's creek ; and 
although it presents no perpendicular descent of any 
considerable height, the water dashes over a great num- 
ber of little precipices in quick succession, which break 
it up into a sheet of foam ; and the spot itself is of 
quite a romantic character. 

LEBANON SPRINGS, 26 miles east from Albany. 

New Lebanon Springs is one of the most delightful 
resorts for strangers, in point of situation, being in this 
respect incomparably superior to either of the great 
watering places, Saratoga and Ballston. Among all the 
places which might have ijeen selected for an agreeable 
residence in the warm seasons, and calculated to please 
a taste for the softer beauties of nature, none perhaps 
could have been found more eligible than that we are 
about to describe. 

The village of New Lebanon is situated in a little 
valley, surrounded by fine hills, or rather spurs from 
two ranges of high ground, descending with a rich, and 
graceful slope on every side to its borders. The valley 
is almost a perfect level, which contrasts delightfully 
with the bold sides of the uplands, some of which are 
divested of their forests, and ornamented with cultiva- 



NEW LEBANON SPRINGS. 33 

ted fields and farms, presenting a rich variety to the 
eye wherever it turns. 

On the side of a hill about two miles east from the 
village, and about half way to the summit of the ridge, 
issues out a Spring of clear warm water, which, although 
possessed of no strong mineral qualities, has given the 
place its celebrity ; and there stands a fine and spacious 
hotel, to which the vister will direct his course. 

In commg from the west, the Shaker Village opens 
just beyond the last turnpike gate ; and on approaching 
the hotel, it is better to take the road which turns off to 
the right, as the direct road up the hill is very steep and 
laborious. 

The terms of boarding are as follows : in July, $S 
per week, and at other seasons |;7. Near the Spring is 
a Bath House, containing warm, cold, and shower baths. 

A little arbour will be observed on the acclivity of the 
hill above the house, the path to which lies through the 
garden ; and there an uninterrupted view will be enjoy- 
ed over the surrounding landscape. A still more exten- 
sive one may be obtained from the summit of the hill, 
by ■bllowing the road for a considerable distance up, and 
then turning off into the fields. But the former point 
of view will be most frequently taken by visiters, on 
account of the facility of access. On the south-east is 
the road to Northampton ; south-west, the most exten- 
sive scene, and the road to the Shaker V^illage ; west, 
village of New L ebanon, and road to Albany and Troy ; 
north-v/est, the side of a fine sloping hill, well cultiva- 
ted, and near at hand. 

Distances. To Albany, 26 miles ; Troy, 27. (This 
is the shortest way to Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
Lake George, &c.) To Hartford, 69, Hudson 28. 

The waters of the Spring are abundant, and much 
esteemed for bathing, always keeping the temperature 
of 72' Fahrenheit, although they cannot be supposed to 
possess any mineral virtues, as may be inferred from an 
examination of the following analysis given by Dr. 
Meade, and quoted by Professor Sillinian : Two quarts 
of the Lebanon water contain 



AEW LEBAXOX SPRIXGt-. 



Muriate of lime, 1 grain. 
Muriate of Soda, 1| 
Sulphate of lime, 1^ 
Carbonate of do. | 



Of Aeriform fi aids. 

Nitrogen gas, 13 cubic in. 
Atmospheric air, 8 do. 



5 grains. 21 

The Lebanon water is therefore purer than most natu- 
ral waters, and purer than those in the vicinity, wiiich 
flow from the same hill. It resembles very much the 
Buxton water in England, though it is not quite so 
warm ; and the Bristol water is another example of tepid 
water almost entirely without mineral qualities. Pro- 
fessor Siliinian compares the scenery about Lebanon 
Springs to that of Bath in England. It is however 
graduated more on those principles of taste which habit 
cherishes in an American, as it abounds far more in the 
deep hues of the forest, and every where exhibits the 
signs of progressive improvement. 

Messrs. Hull &l Bentley's house at the Springs is very 
large, commodious and elegant; and has accommodated 
300 persons at one time. The attendance and table will 
be found excellent, and Saratoga and Ballston waters 
may be obtained at the bar. It stands close by the 
spring, and is furnished with baths supplied with the 
water. The old house measures 90 feet, and the new 
one 120 feet long. They stand in the form of an L, 
and a fine piazza runs along them both, measuring 220 
feet. The place now vies with Ballston and Sara- 
toga, and has sometimes counted more visiters than ei- 
ther of them. 

There is a small fish pond in the neighbourhood. 

Roads from Lebanon Springs. 

From New Lebanon Springs to Troy, there is a very 
good road, through a variegated country. Distances as 
follows : to Nassau, 16 miles ; thence to Troy, 11. 

From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and a stage 
coach goes thither. The following is a table of distances 
on the road to Boston : 



NEW LEBANON SPRINGS. 35 

Fittsfield, 7 miles. 

Hinsdale, 9 

Peru, 4 

Worthington, 6 

Chesterfield, 6 

Northampton,* 13 

Hadley, 3 

Amherst, 4 

Belcherto wn, 7 

Ware, 6 

Western, 8 

Brookfield, 6 

Spencer, 7 

Leicester, 11 

Worcester, 6 

Franiingham, 10 

Boston. 21—134. 

The Shaker Village, a few miles from the Springs, 
is an object of attention to most visiters. The village 
itself presents a scene of great neatness and beauty, as it 
is situated on a beautiful level, and laid out with the ut- 
most regularity. The fields are divided by right lines, 
fenced with the most substantial materials, and cultivat- 
ed with great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading 
principle with the society, to allow of no private proper- 
ty : all the possessions of those who join them are thrown 
into the common stock, and submitted at once to their 
peculiar system of life and government. Celibacy they 
insist upon as indispensable ; and they profess to banish 
the love of wealth and ambition, as well as luxury in all 
its degrees, from their territories. 

So much has been lately published on their peculiar 
doctrines, that few words need to be said here on the sub- 
ject. Not that their prmciples are very perfectly under- 
stood by the public ; on the contrary, few indeed can be 

* Northampton is a beautiful town on Connecticut River, 
and well worthy of a day's delay at least. Mount Hohjoke 
commands the finest view in this part of the country, and is 
easily accessible. (See Index.) 
d2 



if) \E\V LEBANON SPRINGS, 

said to comprehend them, even among- the society itself. 
It may, in fact, be doubted, whether two persons could 
be found who would give the same representation of the 
subject. 

The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who came 
from England some years ago, and established a small 
" family," as they call it, which has been succeeded by 
various similar institutions in different parts of the coun- 
try. They regard that woman as nearly equal to the 
Saviour of the world ; and themselves as the only per- 
sons who have received that spiritual light which is ne- 
cessary to understand and practice the duty of man, 
that is, to renounce the pleasures of the world, and, by 
a life of self denial, present a living testimony against 
error and wickedness. Their dress is plain, and their 
worship consists principally in a strange and disagreea- 
ble kind of dancing, whence they have their name, ac- 
companied with a monotonous song. 

Some of their most experienced and perfect members, 
pretend to "speak with tongues," heal diseases with a 
touch of the hand, and perform other miracles like the 
apostles. They consider the marriage contract as dis-' 
solved on joining the society. 

They pay great attention to the raising of garden 
seeds in most of their villages, as well as to several of 
the neater branches of manufacture, and derive from both 
a very handsome income, by making sales at home and 
in distant parts of the country. Whoever has an oppor- 
tunity to see this singular people, will probably feel gra- 
tified with their neatness, industry, and economy, but 
will perhaps leave the place with pity for some, and sus- 
picion of others. 

Geology. The tract of country between New Lebanon 
and Albany is transition. Bluish gray transition lime 
stone, with veins of calcareous spar, abounds here in 
strata on a large scale, with a considerable inclination. 
It is compact, with a slaty structure. Grawacke abounds 
at intervals ; also transition slate, and a fine red sand 
stone. At Greenbush is a bed of uninflammable fossil 
coal, or anthracite. 



<,:ITY OP ALBANY. S'i 

ALBANY. 

The Albany Basin. The northern and western ca- 
nals unite at the distance of 8^ miles from Albany, and 
terminate here, at a large basin in the Hudson, one of 
the greatest works connected with the canal. It is 4000 
feet long, and has two or three handsome bridges, one 
with a draw to allow a passage for sloops, which leads 
from the foot of State-sti*eet. The pier which encloses 
the basin on the river side, is built of logs, and wide 
enough for a spacious street. It is a place of deposit for 
vast quantities of lumber. 

In 1825, there were 9594 arrivals and departures of 
canal boats at Albany, with 165,000 barrels oi" flour, and 
near 16 million feet of plank and boards. 23,292 tons of 
merchandise also, went north and west. 

The size of this basin, m.ay atibrd the stranger some 
idea of the extent of the business created by the canals. 
Here the traveller gets the first view of objects with 
which he is afterwards to become familiar; and if he is 
travelling this way for the first time in a few years, he 
must look with surprise upon the crowd of boats, and the 
bustle of industry. He may look upon them also with 
additional interest; for they will be hereafter presented 
to his view in many varying forms, though still preserv- 
ing the characteristic aspect and impression, which dis- 
tinguish the whole lino of internal improvements, to its 
termination. Tolls on both canals in 1827, |859,058, 

The route to Schenectady, by the canal, although so 
much longer than the stage road, and so much obstruct- 
ed by frequent locks, is highly worthy of the traveller's 
attention, either in going or in returning ; for it will af- 
ford him an opportunity of seeing the junction of the two 
canals, the Cohoes Falls on the Mohawk, the locks by 
which the rise of land is artificially surmounted, the aque- 
ducts which bear the canal twice across the river, the 
Wat Hoix Rapid, and the gap through which the canal 
passes; tlie scenery at Alexander's Bridge, &c. The 
packet boats used to leave Albany for Schenectady every 
day ; if they should have ceased running, travellers may 



'Jif, ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

find very good accommodations in boats of various de>- 
;?criptions which go every day in the same direction. 

ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO NIAGARA. 

The boats start from the commencement of the canal, 
which is at the north end of Albany ; so that a carriage 
will be necessary for the traveller and his luggage. 

Description of a Canal Packet Boat. — The length is 60 
or 70 feet, a large part of which is devoted to the dining 
room, where two rows of tables are set. At night, mat- 
tresses are spread on the seats each side, and another row 
above them on cots suspended from the roof. The ladies 
are accommodated with births in the cabin, which is usual- 
ly carpeted, hung with curtains, and in other respects 
more handsomely furnished. The kitchen and bar are 
conveniently situated ; and the tables are spread with an 
abundance, and often a delicacy, which may well sur- 
prise those not accustomed to the cheapness of travelling 
in this part of the country. 

A small library, a number of newspapers, &c. will serve 
to make the time pass agreeably, even if the traveller be 
a stranger, or the weather not inviting. In many places, 
the view from the deck is highly interesting; but it can- 
not be too often recommended to the stranger to beware 
of standing on deck when approaching a bridge, and never 
to expose the head or hands out of a window. 

Rensselaer WYCK, 

A fine estate with its respectable old mansion house, 
about a mile north of the centre of the city, is worthy of 
particular observation, as the seat of the Honourable 
Stephen Van Rensselaer; who bears the respected old 
Dutch title of Patroon of Albany. The estate is of im- 
mense value, extending ten miles along the river, and 
double that distance east and west; while he possesses 
besides, a fine tract on the Black River, &;c. It was for- 
merly entailed, and secured by law to the oldest son of 
the family ; but on the death of the present proprietor it 



I NITED STATES ARSENAL. 39 

is to be divided equally among- all the children. The 
character of Gen. V. R. is too estimable and influential 
to allow his name to be passed over in silence, even in a 
work like the present little volume. He has been a 
powerful patron, for many years, of all plans for the pub- 
lic benetit, and one of the earliest and most efficient 
friends of the Erie Canal, v/hich passes through his 
grounds, and terminates within view of his house. 

U. States Arsenal, 5^ miles, at Gibbonsville. The 
advantages of this situation will be immediately percei- 
ved : the vicinity to the Hudson, the road, and the canal 
affording every convenience for the transportation of 
arms and ammunition. This depository of arms, k.c. is 
under the charge of Major Talcott. 

The ground occupied by the arsenal extends from the 
road near the river, back to the tow path of the canal, 
where are two gun houses, with low projecting roofs to 
protect the carriages from exposure to the weather. — 
Strangers may easily gain access by mere application at 
the officers' quarters. These are in the south wing of 
the principal building, which faces the road and the ri- 
ver ; the remainder of which is occupied for the storing 
of arms. One floor is devoted to such arms as are in- 
tended for the supply of the military posts, or have been 
received for repairmg. The arms in the other parts are 
disposed with more taste. The muskets are partly pack- 
ed in boxes, and partly ranged upright, with fixed bayo- 
nets, in compact order ; and present an appearance truly 
formidable. Thousands of pistols are hung overhead ; 
those in the alternate lines standing different ways; and 
swords with metallic scabbards are disposed horizontally 
on wire hooks. The walls bear several devices formed 
of swords, pistols, &c. ingeniously arranged. This is the 
principal depot of arms and equipments in the northern 
states. 

The passages and stair cases are hung with drums, &;c, 
On the ground floor are a few pieces of artillery, and Va- 
rious sizes of shot, shells, &c. &c. 

In the yard arc two ranges of buildings. That on the 
north is devoted to work shops for the repair of arms. 



40 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

manufacturing locks, kc. about 30 men being usually 
employed, most of whom are enlisted. The buildings on 
the south side are occupied by smiths and carpenters. 
Behind these is a handsome flower and fruit garden ; the 
kitchen garden being on the north side of the grounds. 

The muskets are repaired about once in a year ; which 
costs from 50 cents to |1 50 or |2 each. The barrels 
are oxydized to prevent rusting. The muskets weigh a 
little more than 10 pounds, and the parts are intended 
to correspond as nearly as can easily be done. 

In the yard are a number of cannon, &c. There are 
4 medium 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, all ta- 
ken at Saratoga; 4 medium 12 pounders and one howit- 
zer, taken at Yorktown ; two long antique pieces and one 
8 inch mortar, taken at Stony Point ; two old French 4 
pounders and 14 guns, sent by King Louis to the Conti- 
nental Congress in the revolution. These are all of 
brass, and most of them highly ornamented. The French 
guns presented by the king, bear each an individual 
name forward, and the inscription '-'-Ultima ratio regum'' 
— (the last argument of kings.) 

There are also three or four howitzers cast in New- 
York and Philadelphia in the revolution, some of the 
oldest specimens of such manufacture in this country. 
They bear the letters U. C. for United Colonies. 

TROY, 

On the opposite side of the river, is a very handsome 
town, with fine hills in the rear, the most prominent of 
which has received the name of Mount Ida, to corres- 
pond with the classic appellation of the place. There is 
a good horse ferry, which helps to render the town a 
great thoroughfare during the travelling season. The 
Dam and Basin at Troy form a great and expensive 
work, and are of marked benefit to the place, by divert- 
ing a part of the business of the canal. 

The road to New Lebanon is a very good and very 
pleasant one. The distance is 27 miles. 

Sandy Lake is 10 miles on this road, Nassau 8 more. 



CITY OF TROY. 41 

village of New Lebanon 12 further, and Lebanon Springs 
2 more. 

On Mount Ida, the hill east of Troy, is a fine succes- 
sion of water falls, on two streams, the Poestenkill and 
the Wynantskill. One of them has cut its way in some 
places to a great depth, and takes three or four perpen- 
dicular leaps at short intervals of only a few yards. The 
road to New Lebanon Springs leads near the place, which 
is worthy of attention for its picturesque character. — 
There are several mills of different descriptions, and a 
cotton manufactory on the same stream, where Nos. 34 
and 36 are made. The factory is large enough for 2,300 
spindles and 70 power looms. 

Mount Ida. The view from the top of this hill, and 
still more from the mountain behind it, is very extensive 
and beautiful. It embraces the Hudson for a considera- 
ble distance up and down; with the courses of the two 
canals, before and after their junction ; together with 
many of the objects already spoken of; particularly the 
range of the distant Catskill Mountains, which present a 
boundary to the scene in the south-west. 

A canal route has been surveyed by the state of Mas- 
sachusetts, from Boston to Troy. From Troy to Con- 
necticut River, 78 miles of canal would cost 3 millions of 
dollars, with a tunnel of 4 miles through Hoosac-Moun- 
tain, Lockage 611 feet. 

At the Fan Rensselaer School, the students deliver lec- 
tures by turns, on the branches of study to which they 
are devoted ; and during the pleasant seasons of the year, 
they allow much time to making personal observations 
on farming, the botany of the neighbourhood, &;c. Board- 
ing costs about |1 50 per week, and no charge is made 
for room rent, use of the library, apparatus, &c. 

Miss Willard's Academy, for young ladies, is also a 
very respectable establishment. 

The Flour Mill, south of the town, can grind 2000 
bushels of wheat in a day, and 1500 with ease. 

The Xail and Spike Manufactory, makef, of red hot 
iron, every thing from a shingle nail to a ship spike. 



42 route to magara., 

Hydrostatic Lock. 

In order to prevent fraud in the collection of toll, thref; 
of these works have been constructed : — one at Troy, one 
at Utica, and one at Syracuse. They are commonly call- 
ed iveigh-locks. The following' account of them may be 
interesting to those who have never seen them. 

The chamber is on the same level with the canal, and 
is filled from it by a paddle gate. On a level below the 
chamber, is a receptacle, into which the chamber can be 
emptied ; and from this the water can be discharged. 

" Suppose the column of water in the lock in which 
the boat is afloat, is 8.5 feet long, 15 wide, and 4 feet 
deep ; then by multiplying the length, width, and depth 
of this column into each other, its contents in cubic feet 
are obtained. The water is then drawn off into the re- 
ceptacle, and the boat settles down upon timbers, so ar- 
rang'ed as to yield to its shape, by which it is supported, 
without being strained or injured. The quantity of wa- 
ter drawn from the lock is then ascertained by a gradua- 
ted rod. Suppose the water in the receptacle measures 
30 feet long, 25 feet wide, and 5 feet deep : these, multi- 
plied into each other as before, will produce 3750 cubic 
feet. It appears from the above, that the water, with the 
loaded boat floating in it, contamed 5100 cubic feet, and 
that the same water di-awn off and measured separately, 
contained 3750 cubic feet, which subtracted from tlie 
preceding, will give 1350 cubic feet of water displaced 
by the loaded boat. And as a cubic foot of fresh water 
weighs 1000 ounces avoirdupois, or 62^ pounds, it fol- 
lows that 13.50X62^=84375 : the weight of the loaded 
boat. This is to be reduced to tons, and the weight of 
the empty boat, previously ascertained in the same man- 
ner, is to be deducted, and the remainder will be the 
weight of the cargo. After an empty boat has been once 
weighed, she is numbered, and her weight is registered 
at the several hydrostatic locks." 

The opportunity for looking around on every side is 
much better enjoyed in a canal boat than in a stage 
t'oach. or even a private carriage, although it sometinie^ 



REMARKS ON THE CA\'AL. 43 

liappen55, that tlie road commands more extensive views 
than the canal. The immediate scene from tJie latter, 
however, will usually be found the most ag-reeable; for 
a smooth sheet of water, with level and often grassy 
banks, is a more pleasant sight than a long stretch of a 
muddy or sandy highway. Besides, it is always free 
from the inconvenience of dust, which frequently renders 
the roads in this part of the country extremely uncom- 
fortable. 

The Double Locks. The two locks which occur 
just below the junction of the northern and western ca- 
nals, were doubled in 1825, to furnish room for the boats, 
which pass here in great numbers. They are built of 
marble from Westchester county. 

The Junction^ 8^ miles from Albany, is where the 
Northern and Western Canals meet and unite. To this 
spot the canal has been of a greater width than either of 
the branches will be found to be. The Northern Canal 
runs to Whitehall, Lake Champlain, with locks, a dis- 
tance of 63i miles, passing through Waterford, Half- 
moon, Stillwater, near Bemis's Heights, (14 miles from 
Waterford,) with the battle grounds of General Bur- 
goyne, Fort Hardy, whore he surrendered. Fort Miller, 
Fort Edward, and Fort Anne. 

The Erie or Western Canal, reaches to Buffalo, on 
Lake Erie, a distance of 362 miles. It has 83 locks, 
which raise and lower the water 688 feet in all. The 
principal points where the most labour and expense were 
required, are the following : 

The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy, — 
the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts on 
which the canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long 
Stone Wall and Locks at Little Falls, together with the 
beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the 
long stretch through the Onondaga Swamp, — the great 
Embankment at Victor, where for two miles the boats 
pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct over the Ge- 
nesee at Rochester, — the 5 double combined Locks at 
Lockport, and the long Pier at Black Rock. 

E 



44 ROUTE TO NIAGAnA. 

The principal natural objects near it are : 

The Cohoes Falls,— Little Falls,— the Falls of Tren- 
ton, 14 miles north-east of Utica, — the Lakes of Oneida, 
Sahna, Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, and Canandaigua; 
the three Falls of the Genesee River, at Rochester and 
Carthage; Niagara, and the Lakes of Ontario and Erie. 

In the unfinished state of the canals, the amount of 
tolls was, in 1822, $64,071 83; in 1823, $151,099 46; in 
1824, $289,320 8; 1825, estimated at $500,000. The 
canal was completed in 1825 ; and it was estimated that 
on the first of January, 1826, the canal debt amounted to 
$7,602,092. The interest on this is $410,000, and 
$100,000 was estimated to be requisite for repairs and su- 
perintendence, annually. For the first ten years the ca- 
nal tolls were estimated to average $700,000; the auction 
duties belonging to the canal fund, $250,000, and the salt 
duties $170,000. The income from the tolls and funds of 
fhe canals would thus yield an annual surplus revenue of 
$610,000 to be applied to the reduction of the canal debt, 
which it was estimated will be paid ofl' in 10 years. The 
tolls on the Erie Canal in 1827 were $859,058— $98,248 
more than in 1826. On the Champlain, $72,833. 

At the 9 Locks^ the road to Waterford leaves the Erie 
Canal on the west, and the Champlain Canal on the east; 
and crosses the Mohawk River below the Cohoes Falls. 
There is a very fine view of the locks, the river, and the 
falls, from the road which runs along the south bank of 
the river, 140 feet high, between it and the canal. 

(The book will now follow the great route, westward, 
to Niagara. For the road to the Springs, see Waterford.) 

COHOES FALLS. 

This is the great Cataract of the Mohawk River. The 
height of the fall is 62 feet. The banks are mere walls 
of stratified rock, rough, and sometimes hollowed out be- 
neath, rising about 140 feet above the river for a great 
distance below the falls. At first view the cataract ap- 
pears almost as regular as a mill-dam ; but on a nearer 
fipproach, the ledge of rocks over which the water is pre- 



FORT HUNTER. 4't 

cipilated is found extremely irregular and broken. Ma- 
ny fine fish are caught at the bottom. 

The Lower Aqueduct^ Ih miles. On account of the dif- 
ficulty of cutting the canal along this side of the river, 
above this place, it was found easier to carry it over, as 
there is a natural channel on the other side, which will be 
seen with surprise. This aqueduct is 1188 feet long, and 
rests on 26 stone piers and abutments. 

Wat Hoix Gap, 2^ miles — the channel above-men- 
tioned. 

Upper Aqueduct, 9^ miles — 748 feet long, and rests on 
16 piers. The scene at Alexander''s Bridge is very fine. 

Schenectady, (Girens' hin,) is one of the oldest set- 
tlements in the state, having been occupied as a little 
frontier fortress before the year 1665, when it was attack- 
ed by a party of French and Indians from Canada, and 
burnt, and many of the inhabitants murdered. This par- 
ty was designed against the Five Nations ; but being 
much worn down with travelling in the winter, they fell 
on Schenectady. 

Union College is conspicuously situated a little out 
of town. Two large stone buildings have been erected 
several years, but the original plan, which was quite ex- 
tensive, has never been completed. Dr. Nott is president 
of this highly respectable institution. 

FROM SCHENECTADY TO UTICA. 

By the Canal, 79^ miles.* 

Rotterdam Flats 3 miles. 

Flint Hill 8 

Fort Hunter 10 

North of the canal, and on the bank of the Mohawk, is 
the place where this little fort formerly stood. Like 
most of tlie places of defence built in this state during the 
revolution and the French wars, it was small, and fitted 



* By the road, 81 miles. See " 7?y«Js," at the end of th*; 
olume. 



4G noUTE T© MAGAllA. 

only for resisting such little bands of enemies as used to 
approach the settlements on this frontier. 

Near this place is the site of an old fort of the Mohawk 
Indians ; and tliere is still to be seen a chapel built by 
Queen Anne, near the beginning of the last century, for 
the use of that nation. It is known by the name of 
Q_aeen A/ine''s Chapel. 

Schoharie Creek. 1 mile. 

Here is a collection of several very interesting works, 
formed for the convenient passage of boats across a broad 
and rapid stream. A guard lock preserves the water in 
the canal from rising or falling, and the current of the 
creek is sot back by a dam a little below, nearly to the 
same level. The dam is constructed in a manner best 
calculated to resist the pressure of the current in floods, 
and when increased by the ice. It has a broad founda- 
tion and a narrow top ; and it is built so as to present an 
angle against the middle of the current. An ingenious 
invention has been devised for drawing boats across the 
creek by machinery. A wheel turned by a horse moves 
a rope, which is stretched double across, and is carried 
round a wheel on the other side ; a line attached to this 
draws the boats, they being kept in their course by ano- 
ther line, which slides upon a long rope stretched across 
the creek on the other side of the boats. 

Caughnav/aga, 4J miles. 

The village o? Johnstown is situated at the distance of 
4 miles north of the canal.'*^ 



* Tribe's Hill is a commanding elevation within the limits 
of Johnstown. It was formerly the place of the council tire 
of the Mohawk Indians ; and the Germans have corrupted its 
name to " Tripe's Hill," by which it is commonly knoAvn. 

At Johnstown, on the road are two fine houses, built of 
stone, standing at the distance of a mile from each other. 
They were erected by Sir William Johnson and his family, as 
this tract of countrv was the place of his residence, and form- 






f$ II a! 



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AxXTHOXY S NOSK. 47 

Anthony's Nose, 7| miles. This is a hio-h and pro- 
minent hill, rising abruptly on the southern bank of the 
river. On the top is a remarkable cavern, which extends 
downwards to a great depth, with several apartments of 
considerable size. This hill is represented in one of the 
plates ; but the view is taken from a spot west of it. 



ed a part of his vast and valuable estate. .There was origi- 
nally a third house, similarly built, and at the interval of ano- 
ther mile : but this was consumed by fire. Col. Guy Johnson 
and Col. John Johnson, (sons of Sir Wilhani,) inhabited two 
of them until the revolutionary war; when, having attached 
themselves to the British interest, they removed into Canada, 
and their estates were confi.sicated. Colonel John afterward.s 
came down Vvith a party of French and Indians, attacked the 
town, and made prisoners many of his old friends and neigh- 
bours. 

Sir William Johnsox, 

who makes so conspicuous a figure in the history of the state 
about the time of the French war, was born in Ireland, in 
1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the solicitation of his 
uncle. Sir Peter Warren, who had acquired a large estate hero 
through his wife. Sir William became well acquainted with 
the Indian language and manners, and acquired a greater in- 
fluence over them than any other white man ever possessed. 
He rose from the station of a private soldier to the rank of a 
General, and commanded at lake George in 1755, although, as 
will hereafter be seen, the title v/hicli he there received was 
really merited by Gen. Lyman. July 25, 1759, he took Fort 
Niagara, and in 1769 went to join Gen. Amherst at Oswego, 
and assisted in the capture of Montreal. He died and was 
buried at his seat, July 7, 1774, at the age of 60, very rich, in 
consequence of the increased value of his extensive estate 
after the French war. This building was erected in 1773, 
and stands nearly a mile westward from the village. It is 
called the Hall. 

The Battle of Johnstown. On the 25th of October, 1781, 
Col. Willet, with 400 white men and 60 of the Oneida tribe, 
fought 600 of the English and Indians, on the grounds belong- 
ing to the mansion. The loss of the enemy was considerable, 
and they suffered so much during their retreat, that on their 
arrival in Canada their numbers were reduced to 220. 
e2 



IJj ROUTE TO NIAGAllA. 

The spot is quite picturesque, and presents a remarkable 
assemblage of interesting objects : the Mohawk River, 
winding through a narrow valley, with the turnpike on 
the north side, the canal and a country road on the south ; 
the whole enclosed by rough and elevated hills. 

There is every appearance of a rent in the hills hav- 
ing been made by a strong current of water ; and geolo- 
gists consider them as having originally been a barrier 
to a great lake which was thus gradually drained. 

Canajoharie Creek and Village, 5 miles. Hence 
a stage coach two or three times a week to Cherry Valley. 

Fort Plain, 4 miles. Here is a small village, belong- 
ing to a town inhabited by the descendants of Germans. 
It occupies the site of (Jld fort Plain. The German 
language, much corrupted, is spoken here by every body. 

This little fort was surprised by captain Butler in the 
revolutionary war, on his return from burning Cherry 
Valley ; and here he committed similar atrocities. 

Dam on the River, and Feeder for the Canal, 4 miles. 

The Mouth of East Canada Creek, on the opposite 
side of the Mohawk. Near that place, Capt. Butler met 
a violent death, soon after leaving Fort Plain, on his way 
back to Oneida Lake and the Oswego. He had crossed 
the river somewhere below, and while lingering a little in 
the rear of his troops, was overtaken near the mouth of 
the creek, by two Oneida Indians, in friendship with the 
Americans. Seeing them preparing to kill him, he begged 
for his life ; but they only replied '•'• Sherry Valley .'" and 
tomahawked him on the spot. 

Mohawk Castle, 1 miles. This was the principal 
defensive position of that famous nation of Indians, now 
entirely scattered and lost. As the nearest to the Dutch 
settlements, and New England, they were long regarded 
with peculiar solicitude, and frequently with great dread. 
They were one of the five nations, of which we shall 
speak more particularly, at Oneida, and were long faith- 
ful and serviceable friends to the white men. Here is an 
old ohapel erected for their use. 



LITTLE FALLS. 49 

Palatine Bridge. A little off the canal, at Palatine, 
is a school for the education of the Deaf and Dumb, es- 
tablished under the patronai^e of the state, on the plan of 
that in Hartford, Connecticut. It is the central school 
for the state of Nev/-York. (See Hartford.) 

Little Falls. The country presents a varied sur- 
face, and increases in interest on approaching Lit- 
tle Falls, which is the most romantic scene on the 
course of the Erie Canal. On reaching a little open 
meadow surrounded by hills, where the views open 
upon cultivated fields and a few farm houses, the Mo- 
hawk will be found flowing below, on the right ; while 
on the opposite side, at the foot of the hills and on the 
verge of the forest that covers them, the great road is 
seen, after having been lost to the view for a long time. 
The road, the river, and the canal, are collected again at 
the head of the valley ; for there is but one passage, and 
that so narrow as hardly to afford room for them all. 
This is a deep cut through a chain of limestone and gra- 
nite hills, doubtless torn away in some former age by the 
force of water. If the chain were again filled up it would 
throw the water back, and form an immense lake, such 
as is supposed to have once existed west of this place, 
and which, by overflowing its bounds, in process of time 
wore away the limestone strata, and cut deep into the 
hard granite, until a mere river succeeded, and the fine 
alluvial plains above, called the German Flats, were left 
dry. 

The stranger should, by no means, neglect the view of 
this place. If he reaches it early or late in a pleasant 
day, particularly near the rising of the sun, the beauty of 
the scene will be redoubled. On the north bank of the 
river, the road climbs along the side of the rocks, where 
there is barely room for its passage. A great part of the 
way it is almost overhung by rocks and trees on one side, 
while on the other is a precipice of granite, cut down by 
the force of water in perpendicular shafts, originally 
formed by drills, made by loose stones whirled round in 
the current. The same appearance extends to the islands 
and rocks in the channels, many of which appear quite 



60 KOUTE TO NIAGARA. 

inaccessible, with their rag-ged and perpendicular sides 
overhung by dark evergreens, whose shade seems the more 
intense from its contrast with the white rapids and cas- 
cades below. In some places the road is protected by 
immense natural battlements, formed of massy rock, 
which have been loosened from above, and planted them- 
selves on the brow of the precipice. 

On the south side of the river runs the canal, support- 
ed by a wall 20 or 30 feet high, constructed at great ex- 
pense, and rising from tiie very channel of the Mohawk. 
The wildness of the surrounding scenery contrasts no 
less with the artificial beauty of this noble work, than the 
violence and tumult of the Mohawk, with the placid and 
silent surface of the canal, or the calmness and security 
with which the boats glide along the side of the mountains. 

The traveller may step on shore at the two locks, and 
walk along the tow paths, as there are five more locks a 
mile above. If he wishes to stop a few hours to view the 
scene more at leisure, the village of Little Falls is only 
half a mile from that place, where is a lai-ge and comfort- 
able inn, with canal boats and stage coaches passing very 
frequently. If he intends to stay but a few hours, it is 
recommended to him to have his baggage left at a little 
tavern on the canal, where it can be readily transferred to 
another boat. 

The AauEDUCT across the Mohawk is near the 5 locks; 
and is considered the most finished specimen of mason 
work on the line of the canal, though much inferior in 
size to that over the Genesee at Rochester. It con- 
ducts a supply of water from the old canal, formerly 
built for boats to pass the falls, and communicates also 
with a large basin on the north bank. It passes the 
narrow channel of the river with three beautiful arches, 
which are covered with a calcareous cement roughened 
by little stalactites, formed by the water that continually 
drips through the stones. Stones, twigs of trees, &c. on 
which the water falls, are soon found incrusted with a 
similar substance. The channel here shows part of the 
old lime stone strata, with the more durable granite rocks 
laid bare below. 



THE LONG LEVEL. 51 

This neighbourhood is interesting to the geologist, 
abounding in organic remains, &;c. but the ordinary tra- 
veller willbe more pleased v/ith specimens of the beauti- 
ful little rock-crystals, (quartz,) which are found on the 
hills about a mile distant from the village. They are 
perfect in their form, terminating with two pyramids ; 
and are so loosely imbedded in a sandy rock, as to be 
waslied out by tiie rains in considerable numbers. 

There are mills of various kinds at this place. 

On leaving Little Falls, the canal enters upon a beau- 
tiful msadow of fine soil, and a smooth surface ; through 
which the Mohawk winds in a placid and gentle cur- 
rent, enclosed on each side by sloping hills. At the dis- 
tance of three miles^ we are in the level region called 
the German Flats, famous for its fertility. The inhabi- 
tants, who are almost all of German extraction, still 
preserve their language, and many of the customs of 
their ancestors ; and though often laborious and provi- 
dent farmers, are little inclined to those improvements 
in learning or the useful arts, which distinguish so large 
a portion of the state. The scenes presented along this 
part of the canal, bear a resemblance to some of the 
meadows of the Connecticut, although of inferior size, 
and of more recent settlement. 

Six miles from Little Falls is Lock J\fo. 48. An old 
church IS seen on the south side ; and also, old Fort 
Hermiker. 

Herkimer. This village is situated about a mile and 
a half beyond, and a mile north of the canal, on a semi- 
circular })lain ; the circumference of which is traced by 
the Mohawk, and the diameter by the great road. It 
derives its name from Gen. Herkimer, of whom there 
will be more to say at Rome. 

The traveller may take a carriage here, to visit Tren- 
ton Falls, and join the canal again at Utica ; or go first 
from Utica. 

The Long Level begins at Lock No. 53, nearly six 
miles west of Herkimer, It is the longest reach on the 
canal without any interruption by locks, extending to 
Salina, a distance of 69i miles. 



ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 



UTICA, 

This is one of the largest and most important of tlie 
western towns. Here the river, the great road, and the 
canal, all meet again. There are also roads concentra- 
ting here, from various directions, and stage coaches ar- 
riving and departing in great numbers. There are two 
large stage houses ; one of which, at the canal bridge, 
will be found most convenient, if not too crowded. 

There are several handsome churches in Utica, and 
one or more for almost every denomination. The streets 
are broad, straight and commodious ; and the principal 
ones well built with rows of brick stores, or elegant 
dwelling houses. The bridge over the Mohawk, is at 
the end of the street. There were, in 1825, 5040 in- 
habitants : a few less than in Rochester. TVeigh-Lock\ 
(See p. 42.) 

Hamilton College 

Is situated near the village of Clinton, 9 miles from 
Utica. 

TRENTON FALLS. 

This most interesting vicinity is well worthy the at- 
tention of every person of taste, being justly considered, 
one of the finest natural scenes in this part of the 
country. An excellent inn is kept near the falls by Mr. 
Sherman, who has a large collection of rare and cu- 
rious petrifactions collected among the rocks, worthy 
of examination. 

From this house you descend a long stair case down 
the steep bank of the West Canada Creek, which has 
cut a frightful chasm through a rocky range, in some 
places 150 feet deep, and is seen gliding swiftly by 
through a declining channel below. The chasm con- 
tinues for four miles, and presents the greatest variety 
of cascades and rapids, boiling pools and eddies. Tlie 



I 



TREXTON FALLS. Oo 

passage or chasm between the rocks is every where very 
narrow, and in some places barely of sufficient breadth to 
permit the stream to pass ; while the rocks rise perpen- 
dicularly on each side, or sometimes even project a con- 
siderable distance over head, so that it has been often 
necessary to form an artificial path by means of gun 
powder. These places appear dangerous, but only re- 
quire a little caution and presence of mind to ensure the 
safety of the visiter, as strong iron chains are fixed into 
the rock to ofFur him security. There are four princi- 
pal cataracts, between the stair case by which you first 
descend and the usual limit of an excursion, which is 
about a mile and a quarter up the stream. The first of 
these you discover soon after the first turning, and is 
about 40 feet high ; with the greatest fall towards the 
west. The top of the rock on the right side is 150 feet 
high by line measurement. The second is a regular fall, 
much like a mill dam, about 8 feel high ; the third a re- 
markably striking and beautiful one ; and the fourth 
rather a succession of cascades, but presents many most 
agreeable varieties. 

Near the foot of this a melancholy accident occurred 
in 1827. A lady from New- York was drowned by slip- 
ping from a low bank ; unseen, although her friends and 
parents were near her. The ear is stunned by the falls, 
the rocks are slippery, and great caution is recommended. 

About a mile and a quarter from the house, is a small 
building erected for the supply of refreshments. A sin- 
gular species of tree is found hi this neighbourhood, call- 
ed the white cedar, with drooping branches, which of- 
ten grow to such a length as to descend far below tho 
root, towards the water. The rocks here are ail a 
dark lime stone, of a very slaty structure, and con- 
tain astonishing quantities of petrified marine shells 
and other animals of an antediluvian date, such as Di- 
lobites, Trilobites, &c. &:c. 

There are several other cataracts besides those already 
mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger 
might spend some time here very agreeably in observing 
them at leisure, and in catching the fine trout with 



54 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

which the creek abounds. The house is commodious, 
and has the reputation of furnishing one of the best 
tables in this part of the state. 

From Utica to Syracuse, 

By the Canal 63| miles. 

Whitestown, 4 miles. 

Oriskany village, 7 

Rome on the right, 8 

Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. 

S. Arsenal, 1 

Oneida Creek, 14 

Lock 54, end of the long level, 29 

Syracuse, — I 

These places are noticed in succession. 
Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in 
this part of the state, as well as the oldest settlement. 
All this tract of country was a perfect wilderness in 
1785, when Mr. White, from Middletown, in Connecti- 
cut, first took up his abode here and lifted an axe 
against the forest. The traveller may keep this in mind 
as he pursues his journey, and the progress of civiliza- 
tion will appear the more astonishing. 

Siege of Fort Stanwix. 

On the road from Whitestown to Rome, is the spot 
where Gen. Herkimer sat down under a tree after re- 
ceiving his mortal wound. In 1777^ Gen. Burgoynesent 
between 1500 and 1800 men, many of them savages, 
under Baron St. Leger, to go from Montreal, by Lake 
Ontario, to attack Fort Stanwix ; and then to go down 
the Mohawk to Albany. Early in August they arrived 
at Fort Stanwix. Gen. Herkimer, commander of the 
militia of Tryon county, was sent against them with 
800 men. His men insisted on going on, to meet a de- 
tachment under Sir J. Johnson, sent out by St. Leger ; 
but at the first shot they fled. A few remained and 



THE ONEIDA INDIANS. ja 

fought, and Gen. H. was killed. Congress voted a 
monument to his memory, but it has never been erected. 
The Americans lost 160 killed, and 240 wounded and 
prisoners. Two miles below Fort Stanwix the canal 
commences between the Mohawk and Wood Creek. 

Fort Stanwix stood 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre 
of the village of Rome, with a deep ditch, three rows 
of palisades, and a block house in the middle. It was 
defended against St. Leger, by Col. Ganzevoort. Lieut. 
Colonel Wiliet drove him off by a sortie, and plundered 
the camp. He was intercepted on his return, but cut 
his way through, and returned without the loss of a 
man. When Sir J. Johnson returned from tlie battle 
with Gen. Herkimer, the fortress was summoned, but 
refused to surrender ; and Col. Wiliet and Lieut Stock- 
ton left the fort to inform the people towards Albany, of 
its situation. They crept through the enemy's camp, 
and got to Gen. Schuyler's head quarters at Stillwater. 
Gen. Arnold volunteered to relieve it ; and frightened 
the besiegers by means of two emissaries, an Indian and 
a white man, who told such stories of the force of the 
Americans, that they left their baggage and fied precip- 
itately to Oneida Lake. 

Oneida Castle. 

- This is a village on the confines of a tract of reserved 
land belonging to the Indians of the Oneida nation. 
The principal residences of most of the Indians in this 
part of the country were formerly fortified in a manner 
corresponding with their ideas of warfare, and hence 
the name of castle attached to this village, as well as 
to several others, which we may have occasion to speak 
of further on. 

The Oneidas were one of the original Five Nations, 
which form so conspicuous a figure in the history of this 
state, and whose power and influence, at the time of the 
settlement of New- York and New-England, were extend- 
ed far and wide. They held the Delawares in subjection 
in Pennsylvania and Delaware ; the Cherokees in South 



56 UOUTE TO NIAGARA. 

Carolina sought their friendship ; and all the country 
between the Hudson and Connecticut rivers was tribu- 
tary to them. They must have been at that time ex- 
tremely numerous. But since then their decrease has 
been great ; for besides the losses they have sustained 
in wars, and the diseases brought upon them by civilized 
vices, many of their young men have left their native 
country to go and join the tribes who still preserve some 
portion of their original habits and independence ; and 
there are supposed to be only 8000 now in this state. 
Some of the nations, liowever, are said to be gradually 
increasing, under all their disadvantages. The United 
States have furnished sums of money for their instruc- 
tion in learning and useful arts ; as they do to other In- 
dian tribes in our territory. 

A mile east of Oneida Creek, and by the road side, is 
the ancient 

Council Grove, 

Where all the public business of the nation has been, 
for many years, transacted. It is formed of 27 fine but- 
ternut trees, which, in the summer season, from a little 
distance, present a beautiful and regular mass of verdure. 
Towards the south-east from this place is seen the Epis- 
copal church, a building recently erected for the use of 
the Indians. Great numbers of the white persons from 
the neighbourhood also attend service at this house, as 
well as in the other church, which is supplied with preach- 
ers by the Foreign Missionary Society. 

In the scattering village about half a mile beyond, 
there are several decent and comfortable frame houses 
inhabited by Indian families, whose habits have risen to 
a higher grade than most of the nation, although many 
of them are gradually improving, by betaking them- 
selves to agriculture. 

Schools among the Indians are encouraged by the 
general government of the U. S. In the whole country 
tliere are 42 schools in different tribes, with 1291 pupils. 



SYRACUSE. SALT WORKS. Jl 

and 121 teachers. The annual cost to the U. States is 
$7000. 

The scholars are taught the rudiments of learning 
under a master and mistress, and also the useful arts. 

The Oneida nation were idolators until within a short 
time ; but a few years ago the nation renounced their 
ancient superstitious rites, and declared in favour of 
Christianity. 

Brothertown and New-Stockbridge 

Are two villages, a few miles south-easterly from here, 
situated on part of the old Oneida reservation, but 
granted to some of their scattered Indian bretliren from 
Pennsylvania and New-England. New-Stockbridge, 
until recently, was the residence of the Stockbridge 
tribe, who came by an invitation from the Oneidas some 
years ago. They had Christian ministers among them 
long before they removed from Stockbridge in Massa- 
chusetts. 

Most of them now reside at Green Bay, on land given 
them by the Menominies, a nation with whom they are 
on the most friendly terms ; and are adopting to a good 
extent, tlie arts of civilized life. They have invited the 
Oneidas to join them. 

SYRACUSE. 

This place is no less remarkable for the rapidity of its 
growth, than for the peculiar advantages of its situation. 
The great Salt Spring is only a mile and a half distant, 
and the water is brought in hollow logs to the salt vats, 
in great abundance, and at a very trifling expense. 
These vats will be seen at the western side of the village, 
and are well worthy of a days delay, as well as the 
works at Salina, Liverpool, and Geddesburgh. The 
vats are large pans made of wood, three or four inches 
deep, raised a little from the ground, and placed in long 
ranges, with a very gradual descent, to permit the salt 
water to flow slowly along from one end to tlie other. 



5o ROUTE TO NIAGAUA, 

Each range of vats is supplied by a hollow log" placed 
perpendicularly in the ground ; and the constant action 
of the sun evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to 
be deposited in small cubical crystals at the bottom. 
The water is at first a little thick, but gradually deposits 
its impurities ; and the lower vats always show a beauti- 
ful white crust, like the purest snow. 

Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the 
vats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken 
out once in two or three days, to be deposited in the store 
houses, which are built at regular distances. 

Thence it is easily removed to the canal, and then is 
ready for transportation to any part of the country. 

It is scarcely six years since the town may be properly 
said to have been begun. In 1823 there were about 
100 houses, and the number was doubled in 1B24. In 
1825, the inhabitants amounted to 1000 ; and those of 
the township to 3025. There were then three churches 
in the village ; and 736,632 bushels of salt were manu- 
factured here in that year. In 1827, the salt vats cover- 
ed one hundred and sixty acres, and cost the companies en- 
gaged, $120,000. Under such encouraging prospects, the 
village has acquired its sudden growth and importance; 
large blocks of stores have been built on both sides of 
the canal, two or three large hms and stage houses are 
ready for the accommodation of travellers, and a good 
deal of trade is carried on in the place. Improvements 
are still going on rapidly, and it is difficult to foretell 
where they will stop. 

The Oswego Canal, which is to be opened in July, 
1828, leaves the Erie canal at this place, and opens a direct 
communication with Lake Ontario. The river is not to 
be used at all although it is deep, as it has logs in its bot- 
tom called " Sawyers." A lake ship canal might be 
made at a small additional expense. Tlie bank is used 
as a tow path a considerable distance. The shores rise 
gradually to a height of 100 feet, with few inhabitants 
and little cultivation. The locks and other works are 
of the best description, and very admirable workman- 



i}{) ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

40,000 gallons. The pipe is supplied with heat by a 
furnace below, and the salt is formed in large loose mas- 
ses, resembling half-thawed ice. The crystalization also 
is different from that produced by the other modes, at 
least in secondary forms. 

The Village of Salina is of considerable size and a 
flourishing appearance, considering the shortness of the 
time since it began to be built, and the serious obstacles 
it has had to encounter in the nnheaithiness of its situ- 
ation. In 1825 it contained 1000 inhabitants ; the vil- 
lage of Geddes, 520 ; and Liverpool 375. The exten- 
sive marshes which bound it on the west are extremely 
unwholesome during the warmer seasons of the year, 
and the whole neighbourhood is more or less infected with 
the fever and ague : that terrible scourge, which has 
retarded so much the settlement of many parts of this 
western country. Since the marshes have been par- 
tially cleared and drained, the disease has been greatly 
diminished ; and it is hoped that time and industry 
will reduce its ravages still further, if not entirely eradi- 
cate it. 

The branch canal which runs through this village, is 
applied to other valuable purposes beside those of trans- 
portation. A sluice which draws off a portion of the 
water towards the marshes and the lake, is made to turn 
several mill wheels in its course. A forcing pump raises 
the water of the salt spring destined to supply the man- 
ufactories here and at Syracuse ; and a large open frame 
building shows the spot from which all the kettles and 
the pans of both these places derive their supplies : that 
for the latter being elevated to the height of 70 feet, 
and the pump being able to raise 120,000 gallons in 24 
hours. 

The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, 
but in its present state presents no very remarkable ap- 
pearance, as there is little commotion visible on the sur- 
face, and the source would seem by no means equal to 
the great draughts which are continually made upon it. 

The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile. 
It is 6 miles long and two broad, and must receive ii 



SALINA, SALT WORKS. 61 

considerable quantity of salt water from the draining 
of the marshes, as its banks are covered witli saline 
plants. The valley is surrounded by lime-stone hills, 
with petrifactions, and gypsum is found in great quan- 
tities. 

" Tlie American Salt Formation^''' says Dr. Van Rens- 
selaer in his ' Essay,' " extends over the continent from 
the Alleghanies to the Pacific, between 31° and 45^ N. 
Lat. In this immense tract, rock salt has been occa- 
sionally found ; but its locality is more generally point- 
ed out by brine springs.'' The salt springs in this state 
are in the counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, On- 
tario, Niagara, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne, and Oneida, 
but this is the most valuable on various accounts. Du- 
ring the year ending Aug. 1823, 606,463 bushels were 
maiufactured here. In 1800 there were only 42,754. 

45 gallons of water make a bushel of salt. At Nan- 
tucket 350 gallons of sea water are required. 

The following approximated analysis of the water 
'of this spring is given by Dr. Noyes of Hamilton Col- 
lege. 40 gallons, or 355 lbs. contain 56 lbs. of saline 
extract. 

Pure Muriate of Soda, 51 lb. — oz. 

Carb. Lime, coloured by oxyde of iron, — 6^ 

Sulph. Lime, 2 4 

Muriate Lime, 1 12^ 

and probably muriate magnesia, and sulph. soda. 

From Syracuse to Rochester. 

As the traveller is supposed to go to Rochester by the 
canal, the description of places on the Turnpike is omit- 
ted until we reach that part of the country on the return 
from Buffalo. 

By the canal, 99 miles. Weed's Basin 26 m. — A coach 
to Auburn, 8 miles for 50 cents. 11 m. Montezuma 
Salt Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The 
canal across the marshes was constructed at a vast ex- 
pense. 35 m. Palmyra, Coach to Canandaigua,13 ra. 



Ci2 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

for 75 cents. The Great Embankment, 72 feet higk, 
extending 2 m. 

ANTiauiTiES. In the towns of Onondaga, Carailhis, 
and Pompey, are the remains of ancient villages and 
forts, of which a description will be found in Yates and 
Moulton's new History of the State, vol. I. p. 13. In 
Pompey the form of a triangular enclosure is visible, 
with the remains of something like circular or elliptical 
forts at the corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including 
more than 500 acres. De Witt Clinton, the late Gov- 
ernor of this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before 
the Lit. and Phil. Society, thinks the place was stormed 
on the north line. See also North American Review. 

In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, three 
acres in extent, with a covered way, 10 rods long, to a 
spring on the west, and a gate towards the east. 
Another is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half 
as large. Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick used to be 
picked up in these places. (There is a bed of Coal in 
Onondaga.) 

ROCHESTER 

Is the largest and most flourishing place in this part 
of the state, being indeed the fourth in the state in 
point of numbers, the township containing in 1827, 
10,818. It has several good inns, one of the best 
of which is the " Coffee House," near the canal bridge. 
It is situated on the west side of the Genesee river, at 
the upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal ; and 
enjoys the finest advantages for water mills of all kinds, 
from the convenient and abundant supply obtained from 
the falls. 

Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 
1811, the first settlement made in 1812, and it was not 
until the latter part of the year 1814, that any consid- 
erable addition was made to the number of inhabitants. 
In September, 1818, the village contained 1049 inhabi- 
tants ; in August, 1820, 1502; in September, 1822, 
3130, (which included labourers on the public works ; 







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tj4 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, 
where sluices are also constructed for the supply of the 
numerous manufactories built on the bank. Other 
sluices are also dug on the west side, where many other 
mills are to be seen The streets of the town are hand- 
somely and regularly laid out, and several of them are 
very well built with store and dwelling houses of brick 
and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. 

Falls. There is a fall in the Genesee of about 90 
feet, near the northern extremity of the town, another 
near it; and a fine one at Carthage, which, with the 
truly impressive scenery of the banks, is worthy of par- 
ticular attention. To vary the ride, it is recommended 
to the stranger to go down on one side of the river, and 
after viewing the cataract, cross the bridge a little above, 
and return on the other. 

The Lake Ontario Steam Boat touches at Port Gen- 
esee, at the mouth of the river, on its way to Niagara 
and to Ogdensburgli — the route to Montreal. 

Carthage. The fall here is very sudden, though not 
in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a few 
yards. The cataract has evidently been retiring for ages, 
as the deep gulf below the falls, with its high, perpen- 
dicular and ragged banks, is sufficient testimony ; and 
the seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime effect 
of the scenery, redoubled by the roaring of the cataract, 
combine to render it one of the most impressive scenes 
in this part of the country. The precipices are walls of 
secondary rocks, presenting their natural stratifi'^ation, 
and descending from the surrounding level, to a depth 
of about two hundred feet. A singular vein of whitish 
stone will be observed, cutting them horizontally, and 
disappearing at the brink of the falls, which it has kept 
at their present position : its superior hardness, evident- 
ly resisting the action of the water for a much longer 
time ; and probably rendering the descent more pendicu- 
larthan it would otherwise be. The rocks are overhung 
with thick forest trees, which, in some places, have been 
able to find a narrow footing along the sides. 

One ef tlie boldest single fabrics that art has ever snc- 



THE RIDGE ROAD. t>a 

cessftilly attempted in this country, now shows a few of 
its remains in this place. The two great piles of timber 
which stand opposite each other on the narrow level, 
where once the river flowed, are the abutments of a 
bridge thrown over a few years ago. It was 400 feet in 
length, and 250 above the water ; but stood only a short 
time, and then fell with a tremendous crash, by its own 
weight. Fortunately no person was crossing it at the 
time — a lady and gentleman had just before passed, and 
safely reached the other side. 

On account of the obstructions at the falls, navigation 
is entirely interrupted here ; and all the communication 
between the banks of the Genesee, as well as the canal, 
and Lake Ontario, is through Carthage. Merchandise 
is raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an 
inclined plane, very steep, where the descending weight 
is made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. 

This obstacle will cause a great deal of merchandize 
to pass through the Oswego canal. 

Road from Rochester to Niagara Falls, 87 miles. 

To Carthage Falls 2 

Parma 9 

Clarkson 7 



Hartland 14 

(hence a wagon takes pas- 
sengers to Lockport, 7 m.) 



To Sandy Creek 7 

Gaines 8 

Oak Orchard 7 

Cambria 11 

Lewiston 15 

Niaffara Falls 7 



The principal objects on this road, are the Ridge, Lew- 
iston, on Niagara River, and the Tuscarora Village. Ni- 
agara Village will be seen if you do not cross into Cana- 
da at Lewiston ; and Queenstown if you do. Lockport 
may also be seen by leaving the stage road at Hartland, 
54 miles from Rochester, where a vehicle awaits the ar- 
rival of the coach, to take travellers to Lockport, 7 miles. 
It will be proper, however, to pay your passage only to 
this place, if you determine to stop here. 

Instead of going by land from Rochester, it may be more 
convenient to take passage in the canal boat to Lockport; 
and thence go to Hartland to meet the stage coach. 

The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height. 



60 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

and for the most part very narrow, extending a greaf 
part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It is 
often perfectly level for several miles, and affoi-ds an ad- 
mirable foundation for the road, which has, in conse- 
quence, been laid along its top. The manner in which 
this singular elevation could have been made, has ex- 
cited the speculations of many curious observers of na- 
ture, and been explained in different ways. Some have 
imagined that the ridge was, at some long past period, 
the shore of Lake Ontario, and was thrown up by its 
waves ; but it is extremely difficult to understand how 
the waves could have managed to barricade themselves 
out of a tract of country. It therefore seems more ra- 
tional to adopt another theory : that the lake was for- 
merly still more extensive than is here supposed, and 
overflowed the land some distance southward of this 
place, when a current might easily have produced a bar 
parallel to the shore, which, when left dry, might pre- 
sent the form of the ridge. 

The ground presents a slope on each side of the path, 
peculiarly well adapted for home lots, gardens, and or- 
chards ; and the frequency and facility of transportation 
give the inhabitants very manifest advantages. Some 
well built, and even handsome houses will be observed, 
which are still few indeed, but show that a good style 
Jias actually been introduced. 

LOCKPORT. 

This is one of the interesting places on the ca- 
nal. Here is the noblest display of locks, two ran- 
ges, made of fine hewn stone, being constructed 
against the brow of the Mountain Ridge, where the 
foaming of the waste water, the noise of horns, and the 
bustle of occupation excite many lively feelings. Above 
the locks the Deep Cat offers a singular passage between 
high walls of rocks. 

LocKPORT is one of the most advantageous sites for 
machinery on the canal, as all the water passes down 
the mountain ridge, which the canal requires, for an ex- 
tent of 1 J5 miles : Tonawanta Creek, being the only 
feeder from Buffalo to the Seneca River. It is brought 



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iA I y z 



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L,> K 



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LEWISTO-V. 6T 

down by passing round the double locks, and falls 55 
feet into a large natural basin, where two ranges of 
overshot wheels may be built, each at least 25 feet in 
diameter. A little water is sufficient to turn wheels of 
this description. The rocks are blasted out to a depth 
of 60 feet. Within a few years, the spot has been chang- 
ed from a wilderness to a village of several hundred 
houses. It is 65 miles to Rochester, and 27 to Butialo. 

Minerals. The rocky stratum is a carbonate of lime, 
containing organic remains : encrinites, cnthrocites, &c. 
&c. crystals of carb. lime ; rhomboidal, dog-tooth spar, 
12 sided ; fluate of lime ; beautiful crystals of sulphate 
of lime; sulph. of strontian; pyrites; sulphuret of zinc; 
sulphuret of lead. Collections of minerals may be pur- 
chased here. 

The TuscARORA Reservation is an oblong tract f>f 
land reaching within a mile of Levviston. They emi- 
grated from North Carolina, near the beginning of the 
last century, at an invitation from the Five Nations, and 
were admitted on equal terms into their confederacy, 
which has since received the name of the Six Nations. 
They have had a clergyman settled among them for 
many years, and Christianity has been voluntarily adopt- 
ed by them. Their village has some handsome and well 
cultivated farms, and a house built for public worship. 

Hints to the Traveller at Lewiston. 

It will be the intention of many stangers who arrive 
at this place, to devote several days to viewing the Falls 
of Niagara, the battle grounds in the vicinity, and per- 
haps in making short excursions in different directions. 
To those who have leisure, such a course may well be 
recommended; and it may be almost a matter of indif- 
ference whether they first visit the American or the Bri- 
tish side. The public accommodations are excellent at 
both places, and the river may be safely crossed at any 
hour of the day, by a ferry, at the expense of about half 
a dollar, including the transportation of luggage down 
and up the steep banks. A stair case is erected near 
the falls, on the British as well as the American side, to 



08 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

furnish a convenient mode of descending to the foot of 
tlie cataract, where the charge is 25 cents for each per- 
son. During the pleasant seasons of the year, both pla- 
ces are the resort of great throngs of visiters. Stage 
coaches also pass up and down on both sides every day 
at equal rates. 

To such, however, as have but a short time to spend 
in this neighbourhood, it may be strongly recommended 
to proceed directly to the British side. The cataract on 
that side is higher, broader, more unbroken, and gene- 
rally acknowledged to be the noblest part of the scene. 
The visiter may indeed see it to gr^iat advantage from 
Goat Island^ on the American side, but the view from 
Table Rock ought by no means to be neglected. The 
finest view from the level of the water beiow is also af- 
forded on the west side. 

THE FALLS OF ^IkGAKk— from the American side. 

The Inn or Hotel is a large building, and very well 
kept and commodious. 

The height of the fall on this side is 160 feet perpen- 
dicular, but somewhat broken in several places by the 
projecting rocks. It extends 300 yards to a rock which 
interrupts it on the brow of the precipice. A narrow 
sheet appears beyond it, and then comes Goat Island, 
with a mural precipice. Between this and the other 
shore is the Grand Crescent, for which see a few pages 
beyond. There is a bridge to the island, which com- 
mands many fine views of the falls. It rests on wooden 
piers sunk with stones. 

The stair case conducts safely to the bottom of the 
precipice ; and boats may row up near to the cataract. 

About 2 miles below the Falls, is a Mineral Spring, 
said to contain sulphuric and muriatic acids, lime and 
magnesia. 

There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about half a 
mile across ; but the current is strong on this side, and 
the eddy sets up with such force on the other, that a 
boat moves more than double that distance in going 
over. The passage is not dangerous, although the wa- 



BATTLE OF QUEENSTOWN. GO 

ler is much agitated by counter currents and changing 
whirlpools ; for the ferr3'^men are taught by their expe- 
rience to manage the boat with care, and not only to 
take advantage of the currents, but to avoid all the rough 
places, ripples and whirlpools. The banks here have an 
appearance very wild and striking. 

The rocks are a dark red sand stone, v/ith thin strata 
of a more clayey character and a lighter colour, occur- 
ring every few feet. 

Q,UEENSTOWN,on the Canada side of the river, is a small 
town, uninteresting except so far as regards its natural 
situation, and some martial events of which it has been 
the theatre. 

The Battle of Queenstown. 

During the last war between the United States and 
Great Britain, in 1812, while Gen. Van Rensselaer was 
stationed at Lewiston, he formed the bold design of tak- 
ing Queenstown ; and in spite of the difficulty of ascend- 
ing the steep banks, and the fortitications which had been 
thrown up for its defence, before day-light in the morn- 
ing of October 13th, he embarked his troops at the ferry, 
and passed over the riverunder cover of abattery. As the 
accessible points on the coast were strictly watched, and 
defended by batteries of some strength, the place selected 
for the attack was the lofty and precipitous bank just 
above. Two or three small batteries had been erected 
on the brow, the remains of which are still visible ; but 
this did not discourage the undertaking. The landing 
was effected, and in spite of the difficulty of the ascent, 
the heights were surmounted, and the Americans com- 
menced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, who 
was at a distance, hearing the guns, hastened to the spot ; 
but under a tree near the precipice was killed by a chance 
shot. The Americans remained in possession of the 
heights a few hours, but were then obliged to re-cross the 
river. 



^0 falls of niagara. , 

The Monument to General Brock 

Was raised by the British government in the year 
1824 ; and the remains of Gen. Brock have since been 
deposited there. Its height is 1:26 feet; and the view 
from the top is very fine and extensive, the base being 
350 feet above the river. In clear weather the eye em- 
braces not only the river below, and the towns of Lewis- 
ton and Queenstown, but those of Newark and Fort Nia- 
gara, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, York harbor, 
Youngstown, part of the route of the Welland Canal, a 
vast level tract of country covered with a uniform forest, 
and the horizon, formed by the distant lake itself. 

The monument is built of a coarse gray limestone, 
containing enchrinites, &c. of which the hill is formed, 
and contains some shells and other organic remains. 
The old park for artillery, and the marks of various 
works, will be observed in different parts of the heights. 

From Q^vxensfown, to Niagara Fails is 7 miles, over a 
level, sandy road. 

The country between Niagara and York, U. C. is con- 
sidered the most beautiful, most fertile, and best culti- 
vated part of the province. It will therefore be worthy 
of the traveller's attention, as soon as the desired im- 
provements and accommodations shall have been intro- 
duced. The scenery is alternately wild and pleasing; 
and the rapid progress of population, the arts, and busi- 
ness created by the Welland Canal and its collateral 
works, which promise such success, will soon render this 
tract of country, a favourite part of tlie tour of the North- 
ern Traveller. A free navigation for the largest vessels 
used here, between Lake Erie and Ontitrio, must pro- 
duce the most important results. Manufactories are al- 
ready in operation in different places; but the inexhaust- 
ible water power of the canal, will multiply them to any 
desirable degree. 40,000 or 50,000 lbs, of raw wool are 
now annually consumed in this region by the manufac- 
turers of narrow cloth and sattinets ; and most of the pa- 
per used in Upper Canada, is made at Crook's Mill, in 
West Flamborouoh, 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 71 

The Seat of Sir Peregrine Maitland, 4 miles, is 
a handsome edifice near the road. It was once the resi- 
dence of the Duke of Richmond. 

Ancient Tumuli. Near Sir P. Maitland's is a range 
of rising ground, which overlooks the country and lake 
for a great distance. Near the top a quantity of human 
bones were recently discovered by the blowing down of 
an old tree. A great number of skeletons were found 
on digging, with Indian beads, pipes, &c, and some 
conch-shells, shaped apparently for musical instruments, 
placed under several of the heads. Other perforated 
shells were found, which are said to be known only on 
the w^estern coast of the continent within the Tropics. 
There were also found brass or copper utensils, &c. and 
the ground looks as if it had been defended with a pali- 
sade. 

The Whirlpool, sometimes called the Devil's Hole, 
cannot be seen without leaving the road and going to 
the bank. The rocks are about 300 feet above the wa- 
ter ; and during tlie late war 50 Americans were driven 
off by a party of Indians, in tJie night, mistaking the 
trees for the verge of a wood. One was saved by falling 
into a cedar. 

A leisurely walk the whole distance, near the river, 
may please the admirer of nature; as the high and rocky 
cliffs which form the banks on both sides present a con- 
tinued succession of striking scenes. 

Although the surface of the ground frequently indi- 
cates the passage of water in some long past period, the 
whole road is much elevated above the river, and owing 
to this circumstance the traveller is disappointed at not 
getting a sight of a cataract from a distance, as it remains 
concealed by the banks, until he has approached very 
near. It frequently happens, also, that the roar of the 
cataract is not perceived before reaching the inn, for the 
intervening bank intercepts the sound so much that the 
jioise of the v/heels is sometimes sufficient to drown it 
enJtirely. Yet, strange as it may appear, the inhabitants 
declare, that at the same time it may very probably be 
heard on the shore of Lake Ontario. 



TALLS OF NIAGARA. 



TPIE FALLS OF NIAGARA— from the British side. 

There are two large Inns or Hotels on the Canadian 
side of the river, both situated as near the falls as could 
be desired. That kept by Mr. Forsyth stands on what 
ought strictly to be called the upper bank, for that ele- 
vation appears to have once formed the river\s shore. 
This is the larger house ; the galleries and windows in 
the rear command a fine view of the cataract, although 
not an entire one, and overlook the rapids and river for 
several miles above. The other house is also commo- 
dious, and commands the same scene from a different 
point of view. 

Following a footpath through the pasture behind For- 
syth's, the stranger soon finds himself on the steep brow 
of the second hank, and the mighty cataract of Niagara 
suddenly opens beneath him. A path leads away to the 
left, down the bank, to the verge of the cataract; and 
another to the right, which offers a drier walk, and pre- 
sents a more agreeable and varied scene. 

The surface of the rocks is so perfectly flat near the 
falls, and the water descends so considerably over the 
rapids just before it reaches the precipice, that it seems 
a wonder that the place where you stand is not over- 
flown. Probably the water is restrained only by the di- 
rection of the current, as a little lateral pressure would 
be sufficient to flood the elevated level beside it, where, 
there can be no question, the course of the river once lay. 

Table Rock is a projection a few yards from the ca- 
taract, which commands a fine view of this magnificent 
scene. Indeed it is usually considered the finest point of 
view. The height of the fall on this side is said to be 
174 feet perpendicular; and this height the vast sheet of 
foam preserves unbroken, quite round the Grand Cres- 
cent, a distance, it is estimated of 700 yards. Captain 
Basil Hall and Mr. Thompson measured the distaricc 
from Table Rock to Termination Rock in 1827, and 
found it to be 153 feet. Goat Island divides the cata- 
ract, and just beyond it stands an isolated rock. The 




T^I A R,c\J<.^, T3i { TAX 1>, EX, O^Y 



RAPIDS OF NIAGARA. i Ci 

fall on the American side is neither so high, so wide, nor 
so unbroken ; yet^ if compared with any tiling else but 
the Crescent, would be regarded with emotions of inde- 
scribable sublimity. The breadth is 900 feet, the height 
160, and about two-thirds the distance to the bottom 
the sheet is broken by projecting rocks. A bridge built 
from the American side connects Goat Island and the 
main land, though invisible from this spot; and the inn 
on the same side, in Niagara, is seen a little way from 
the river. 

It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this 
place as often as he can, and to view it from every neigh- 
bouring point; as every change of light exhibits it under 
a different and interesting aspect. The rainbows are to 
be seen, from this side, only in the afternoon; but at that 
time the clouds of mist, which are continually rising from 
the gulf below, often present them in the utmost beauty. 

Dr. Dwight gives the following estimates, in his Tra- 
vels, of the quantity of water which passes the cataract 
of Niagara. The river at the ferry is 7 furlongs wide, 
and on an average 25 feet deep. The current probably 
runs six miles an hour ; but supposing it to be only 5 
miles, the quantity that passes the falls in an hour, is 
more than 85 millions of tons avoirdupois ; if we sup- 
pose it to be 6, it will be more tlian 102 millions; and in 
a day would be 2400 millions of tons. The noise, it i.s 
said, is sometimes heard at York, 50 miles. 

THE RAPIDS 

begin abouthalf a mile above the cataract; and, althougii 
the breadth of the river might at first make them appear 
of little importance, a nearer inspection will convince 
the stranger of their actual size, and the terrific danger 
of the passage. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood 
regard it as certain deatli to get once involved in them ; 
and that not merely because all escape from the cataract 
would be hopeless, but because the violent force of the 
water among the rocks in the channel, would instantly 
dash the bones of a man in pieces. Instances are on re- 



'4 FALLS OF MAGAKA. 

<ord rtf persons being carried down by the stream; but 
no one is known to have ever survived. Indeed, it is 
very rare that the bodies are founci ; as the depth of the 
^ulf below the cataract, and the tumultuous agitation of 
the eddies, whirlpools, and counter currents, render it 
difficult for any thing once sunk to rise again ; while the 
general course of the water is so rapid, that it is soon 
hurried far down the stream. The large logs which are 
brought down in great numbers during the spring, bear 
sufficient testimony to these remarks. Wild ducks, 
geese, Sic. are frequently precipitated over the cataract, 
and generally re-appear either dead or with their legs 
or wings broken. Some say that water fowl avoid the 
place when able to escape, but tliat the ice on the shores 
of the river above often prevents them from obtaining 
food, and that they are carried down from mere inability 
to fly; while others assert that they are sometimes seen 
voluntarily ridnig among the rapids, and after descend- 
ing half way down the cataract, taking wing, and re- 
turning to repeat their dangerous amusement. 

The most sublime scene is presented to the observer 
when he views the cataract from below; and there he 
may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. 
This scene is represented in the plate. To render 
the descent practicable, a spiral stair case has been 
formed a little way from Table Rock, supported by a tall 
mast; and the stranger descends without fear, because 
his view is confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough 
path among the rocks winds along at the foot of the pre- 
<npice, although the heaps of loose stones which have 
fallen down, keep it at a considerable height above the 
water. A large rock lies on the very brink of the river, 
about 15 feet long and 8 feet thick, which you may 
climb up by means of a ladder, and enjoy the best central 
view of the falls any where to be found. This rock was 
formerly a part of the projection above, and fell about 
seven years ago, with a tremendous roar. It had been 
observed by Mr. Forsyth to be in a very precarious si- 
tuation, the day before, and he had warned the strangers 
at his house not to venture near it. A lady and gentle- 



FALLS OF .NIAGARA. "i ..> 

man, howev-er, had been so bold as to take their stand 
upon it near evening-, to view tJie cataract ; and in tho 
night they heard the noise of its fall, which shook the 
house like an earthquake. 

In proceeding nearer to the sheet of falling water, thft 
path leads far under the excavated bunk, which in one 
place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. The 
vast column of water continually pouring over the preci- 
pice, produces violent whirls in the air; and the spray is 
driven out with such force, that no one can approach to 
the edge of the cataract, or even stand a few moments 
near it, without being drenched to the skin. It is also 
very diiiicult to breathe there, so that persons with weak 
lungs would act prudently to content themselves with a 
distant view, and by no means to attempt to go under 
the cataract. The celebrated navigator captain Basil 
Hall, on a visit here in 1827, found that the air under 
the cataract is not compressed ; but he considered the 
gusts of wind more violent than any gale he had ever 
witnessed. Those who are desirous of exploring this 
tremendous cavern, should attend very carefully to their 
steps, and not allow themselves to be agitated by the 
sight or the sound of the cataract, or to be blinded by 
the strong driving showers in which they will be conti- 
nually involved ; as a few steps would plunge them into 
the terrible abyss which receives the falling river. 

In the summer of 1827, a schooner called the Mi- 
chigan, which was found to be unfit for the naviga- 
tion of Lake Erie, being of too great a depth of wa- 
ter, was towed by a steam boat to the end of Grand 
Island, and then by a row boat under the command of 
Capt. Rough, to the margin of the rapids, where sho 
was abandoned to her fate. Thousands of persons had 
assembled to witness the descent. A number of wild 
animals had been inhumanly placed on her deck, confin- 
ed, to pass the cataract with her. She passed the first 
fall of the rapids in safety ; but struck a rock at the 
second and lost her masts. There she remained an in- 
stant, until the current turned her round and bore her 
oway. A bear here leaped overboard and swam to the 



'i'6 FALLS OF :magaua. 

shore. The vessel soon filled and sunk, so that only her 
upper works were afterwards visible. She went over 
the cataract almost without being seen, and in a few 
moments the basin was perceived all scattered with her 
fragments, which were very small. A cat and a goose 
were the only animals found alive below. It is probable 
from the success which the masters of the hotels in the 
vicinity filled their houses, that the scene will be here- 
after repeated. It is hoped however there will be more 
humanity observed towards the brute creation. 

The Burnlng Spring. 

About half a mile above the falls, and within a few 
feet of the rapids in Niagara River, is a remarkable 
Burning Spring. A house has been erected over it, into 
which admission is obtained for a shilling. The water, 
which is warm, turbid, and surcharged with sulphurated 
hydrogen gas, rises, in a barrel which has been placed iu 
the ground, and is constantly in a state of ebullition. 
The barrel is covered, and the gas escapes only through 
a copper tube. On bringing a candle within a little 
distance of it, the gas takes fire, and contiruies to burn 
Avith a bright flame until blown out. By leaving the 
house closed and the fire extinguished, the whole atmos- 
phere within explodes on entering with a candle. 

While on the Canada side of the falls, the visiter may 
vary his time very agreeably, by visiting the village of 
Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in this vicinity ; which, 
(hiring the late war with Great Britain, were the scenes 
of two sharp contests. 

The Battle of Chippewa. 

in July, 1814, the British and American armies being 
near each other. Gen. Ripley ordered Gen. Scott to 
make an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, with 
Capt. Tonson's division of artillery ; and the enemy's 
pickets were soon forced to retire across the bridge. 



BATTLE OF CHIPPEWA. 7/ 

Gen. Ripley came up in the afternoon and encamped 
with Gen. Scott's advance. 

The stranger may be gratified by examining the field 
of these operations, by going to Chippewa Village, 
about two miles above Forsyth's. The American en- 
campment of July 23d is in the rear of a tavern near 
the road, about a mile beyond Chippewa. 

On the 5th, after some sharp shooting, the Indians 
were discovered almost in the rear of the American 
camp. At this moment Gen. Porter arrived with his 
volunteers and Indians. Gen. Brown immediately di- 
rected them to enter tlie woods and effectually scour 
them. Gens. Brown, Scott, and Ripley were at the 
white house, in advanced, reconnoitering. Gen. Por- 
ter's corps had almost debouched from the woods oppo- 
site Chippewa, when the whole British force had crossed 
the Chippewa Bridge, and Gen. Scott advanced, and 
Gen. Ripley was in readiness to support. In a few min- 
utes the British line was discovered formed and rapidly- 
advancing — their right (the Royal Scots) upon the 
woods, and their left (the prince regent's) on the river, 
with the king's own for their reserve. Their object was 
to gain the bridge across the creek in front of the en- 
campment, which, if done, would have compelled the 
Americans to retire. Gen. Brown, fearing a flank move- 
ment of the enemy through the woods on the left, direct- 
ed Gen. Ripley not to advance until he gave him orders. 
Meanwhile General Scott, under a most tremendous fire 
from the enemy's artillery, crossed the bridge, and formed 
his line. The British orders were to give one volley at a 
distance, and immediately charge. But such was the 
warmth of our musquetry that they could not withstand 
it. At this moment Gen. Brown sent orders to Gen. 
Ripley to make a movement througli the woods upon the 
enemy's right flank. With the 21st regiment ho passed 
a ravine in his front, where the men had to wade up to 
their chins, and advanced as rapidly as possible. But 
before he commenced filing from the woods into the 
open land under the enemy's batteries, they had been 
completely broken by Gen. Sott'^" brigade, and threw 



7y FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

themselves across tJie Chippewa Bridge, whkh they 
broke down. 

Although the Americans were not able to cross the 
ercek, the British thoii,<rht proper to evacuate Chippewa 
very precipitately, and to retreat towards Queenstown. 

In this atlair tlie British loss, in killed, wounded and 
missing, was 514, and the American loss 328. 

Nothing of importance occurred after this until the 
25th of the same month, the date of 

The Battle of Bridgewater, or Lundy's Lane. 

The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody 
action is about a, mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an 
obscure road, called Lundy's Lane. Since their re- 
treat from Chippewa, the enemy had received re-enforce~ 
ments of troops from Lord Wellington's army in Spain ; 
and on the 25th of July encamped on a hill, with the 
design of attacking the American camp the next morn- 
ing. At 6 in the evening. Gen. Brown ordered Gen. 
Scott to advance and attack them, which was immedi- 
ately done ; and in conjunction with Gen. Ripley the at- 
tack was commenced in an hour. The British were 
much surprised at seeing the approach of their enemy 
at this hour, not having discovered them until they left 
the woods and began to march across the open level 
fields seen from Forsyth's Hotel, and about a quarter of 
a mile to the left. 

The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of 
tlie American regiments, the day after the engagement, 
contains some interesting particulars : 

" The enemy had collected their whole force in the 
peninsula, and were re-enforced by troops from Lord 
Wellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For 
two hours the two hostile lines were within twenty 
yards of each other, and so frequently intermingled, 
that often an officer would order an enemy's platoon. 
The moon shone bright ; but part of our men being 
dressed like the Glengarian regiment caused the decep- 
tion. They frequently charged, and were as often 



WELLANU CANAJ.. iV 

driven back. Our regiment, under Colonel Miller, was 
ordered to storm the British battery. We charged, and 
took every piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept pos- 
session of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at 
night, when we all fell back more than two miles. 
This was done to secure our camp, which might other- 
wise have been attacked in the rear. Our horses being 
most of them killed, and there being no ropes to the 
pieces, we got off but two or three. The men were so 
excessively fatigued they could not drag them. We 
lost one piece of cannon, which was too much advanced, 
every man being shot that had charge of it, but two. 
Several of our caissons were blown up by their rockets, 
which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of am- 
munition. The lines were so near that cannon could 
not be used with advantage." 

The British lost, in killed, wounded, and prisoners, 
878 ; and the Americans 860. 

WELLAND CANAL. 

It may well be recommended to the traveller to devote 
a little time to visiting this new, important and highly 
interesting work, which can be done by those who have 
a short time to spare. The whole line, it was believed, 
would be navigable in October, 1828. When the means 
of conveyance shall have been once regulated, it will be 
easy to point out, in a subsequent edition, the best routes 
for the convenience and gratification of strangers. Lake 
vessels are hereafter to go up the Welland or Chippewa 
river to the canal ; and the visiter at Niagara will be 
but about 8 or 10 miles from some parts of it. 

As it may be presumed that a traveller, on a tour like 
the present, will of course lay aside all private and even 
national feelings, sufficiently to admire what is great in 
the enterprise and arts of a neighbouring country, a speci- 
men of human skill and industry like the Welland Ca- 
nal may be expected to interest those into whose hands 
this little volume may fall. 

The improvement of Upper Canada has had to en- 
counter great obstacles in the climate, the wildness of 



80 FALLS OF JMAGARA, 

the country, iJie vicinity of aland under a different syt>- 
lem of government, the large reserves of soil for tho 
support of the clergy, (one seventh of the whole,) and 
a general want of intelligence and enterprise among 
( iie inhabitants. Some of these have been already in a 
considerable degree surmounted, and are likely to be 
still further overcome, by the encouragements offered 
by the mother country, the introduction of scientific 
engineers and funds by the Canada Company, and 
the unexpected facilities afforded to schemes of internal 
improvement by the natural features of the province. 

The obstacle which it was the object of the Welland 
Canal to surmount, is of a character that gives great in- 
terest to the work. Tlie largest cataract in the world, 
which presents a scene of confusion, uproar and tu- 
mult, that sets at nought all the rules of order and re- 
straint, was to be surmounted by a system of works in 
which the rush of the element, so awful, resistless and 
destructive, was to be curbed and tamed to a calm and 
gentle descent, and rendered useful to the objects of 
connnerce. 

From this tremendous and destructive cataract a por- 
tion of power was to be drawn away, insignificant in- 
deed, but sufficient for the necessities of thousands of 
men ; and " divided and conquered," reduced to tlie 
.servitude of our rac(!, rendered subservient to the 
complicated arts of civilization, and compelled to perform 
the most tiresome and triiling tasks in all their details. 

The Welland Canal begins near the mouth of Grand 
River, which empties into Lake Erie, about 40 miles from 
Buffalo. It will admit the largest vessels on the lakes, 
viz. those of 125 tons. Here is 

Port Maitland, which is capable of receiving a great 
immber of vessels such as navigate the Lake, for which 
the Canal is calculated. The neighbouring part of tho 
lake is free from ice earlier in t]ie Spring than that near 
Buffalo ; and it is believed by the Canadians, that the 
access to the mouth of the Welland canal will be open 
about four or five weeks earlier every year. This of 
course would be a great advantage. It is not however 
to be expected that the New- York Canal will suffer any 



WELLAND CAXAL. ?,l 

tujury from tlie present work. TJie bnsinoss will soon 
he greater than can be done upon it ; and will increase 
with great rapidity, particularly after the opening- of 
tlie Ohio Canal. 

Grand Rirer* serves as a part of the navigable line 
for a distance of 128 chains ; and then Broad Creek for 
70 chains. The excavations there commence, and the 
Canal enters the 

Mainjleet Marsh. Tlxis is a tract of swampy land, 
elevated only about 8 feet above the level of lake Eric, 
and extending from its shore to Welland or Chippewa 
River. The canal passes it by a thorough cut ten miles 
long, and varying from 10 to 16 feet in depth, commu- 
nicating with many ponds and pools. It is a fact well 
established by scientific surveyors, that only a narrow 
ledge of rocks occurs between the two lakes, and that, 
if this were removed, the soil is generally of so loose a na- 
ture, that a current of water might soon wear away a deep 
channel, drain off Lake p]rie, and cause a tremendous 



* The improvement of the navigation of Grand River has 
been proposed ; and it was surveyed in li]27, from its moutli 
to Brantford, 60 miles, and tonnd favourable to improvement. 
The rise is only 25 feet, and it might easily be rendered navi- 
gable in lake vessels. It is proposed to make a slack-water 
navigation in the river, by J! dams, to be connected with the 
Welland Canal by a cut of 30 chains. The estimated expense 
is about 17,000/. Produce has heretofore been carried bv 
land from Brantford to Burlington Bay on Lake Ontario,\vhicii 
requires four davs, and costs os. lor a barrel of flour. By the 
ne\f route the distance would be about 100 miles. Much of the 
trade would probably go to Buffalo. It was estimated tliat 
the following amount of articles would go down the river. 
19,850 barrels of flour, 2,500 do. whiskey, 1,205 do. ashes, 
and 1,550 do. pork, besides miscellaneous articles estimated 
at 400, in addition. There are at present, in the vicinity of 
the river, 27 saw-mills, producing annually 4,720,000 feet o!' 
lumber, 11 flouring mills, and 15 distilleries. The assum- 
ed annvial revenue arising from tolls, and the rent of mill 
privileges at the dams, is stated at 13 per cent, upon the cost 
«f the work, 



82 I'ALLS OF NIAGARA, 

inundation. This barrier will be seen at the Mountain 
Jiidge^ on the northern part of the Canal, where the de- 
scent is above 300 feet. From Lake Erie to that place 
the stranger will observe that he proceeds on an almost 
\ininterru])ted level. The continuation of the Mountain 
Ridge forms the Falls of Niagara, and the elevation of 
ground at Lockport, surmounted by the noble works at 
that place. It runs for many miles, presenting towards 
the east an irregular line of precipice, with salient and 
re-entering angles, like an immense fortification. Most 
of the streams which fall over it pour down the ravines 
thus formed. 

An experienced and capable engineer, Judge Geddes, 
first published this fact in the Journal of Science and 
the Arts, and stated that there appeared to be every rea- 
son to suppose one of these natural ravines received 
the Niagara river at the Falls ; and that the apparent 
attrition of the rocks for a great distance below, and the 
general belief of the cataract having retired for miles, 
are not to be confided in. 

The Welland River, a very sluggish stream, is used 
for ten miles, being entered by a lock of 8 feet lift, a 
towing path being formed along its bank. This river 
has a course of 30 or 40 miles, between the two lakes, 
but nearly on a level with Lake Erie, and empties into 
Niagara River about two miles above the falls. It is in- 
tended that vessels passing the sloop lock at Black 
Roek, shall enter the canal by this route ; and the Ca- 
nal Company are authorized to make a towing path 
along the Niagara and the Welland Rivers. Its breadth 
is from 3 to 4 chains. 

In Thorold township the Canal leaves the Welland 
River, passing a guard lock ; and proceeds in a northerly 
direction towards Lake Ontario. 

On leaving Welland River, the boats pass a ravine C6 
chains in length, where the excavations are 8 or 10 feet 
deep. 

The Deep Oaf. We approach a part of the canal in 
which the greatest labour and expense were required. 
It extends \f} miles, and required the excavation of 



WELLAKD CANAL, iio 

1,477,700 cubic yards of earth. The excavation- is to 
an average depth of 45 feet. The ground is undula- 
ting, and the greatest depth is 56 feet. 

The surface suddenly rises to the height of 38 feet, 
and 106 chains further, to 56 feet 6 inciies. Thence 
it descends until, at the end of tlie Deep Cut, it is 
only 30 feet. Tliis ground has been excavated and 
the level of the canal preserved, by the greatest work 
of the kind in America, excepting perJiops the aque- 
duct on the plain of Mexico. The earth, to 12 or 18 
feet below the surface, was clay mixed with a little 
sand. Below that was a hard blue clay, frequently 
requiring the pickaxe. The earth dug out near the 
middle of the cut was raised up the banks, which arc 
150 feet apart at the deepest places, as the nature of 
the soil required a gradual slope. 

Lock JVo. 1, of the Mountain Ridge, is 4 miles and 23 
f'hains from the Deep Cut. The intervening surface is 
undulating, and the canal passes alternate ravines and 
ridges : By damming the former a little way from the 
line on the left, numerous pools or reservoirs (taken to- 
gether, 2 miles in length.) have been formed, very useful 
for the locks. 

Near the brow of the Mountahi Ridge is an elevation, 
which required an excavation nearly 20 feet deep for 20 
rliains. On this level are four twin bridges, with but- 
ments 40 feet asunder, corresponding with the breadtl.i 
of all the locks westward of this place, which are 40 
feet by 125, and able to admit steam boats up to this 
point, either from Grand river or Niagara river by tlni 
Welland. The Company are authorized to make a 
towing path along these two latter streams to connect 
them with the canal. 

Locks Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4 are in a ravine 52 chains in 
length, which introduces the stranger to the most re- 
markable scene of the kind in the world. 

The Mountain Ridge. Within the extent of a mile 

and 55 chains are 17 locks of 22 feet by 100, which 

overcome nearly the whole elevation of Lake Erie 

above Ontario. The canal winds alonar tbc face of the 

Ji2 



S4 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

descent, bending- to the left and the right, to give room 
for reservoirs between the locks, necessary for a conve- 
nient supply of water. None of the locks are less than 
30 yards apart. This is the only part of the route 
where^rocks were to be excavated, and the amount of 
rock removed here was 70,000 cubic yards. 

At the foot of this long and steep descent the canal 
enters a ravine, which extends 2i miles through 12 
locks, between high banks, to 

St. Catherine's. The descent from the top of the ridge 
to this place is 322 feet. Though a small village, St. 
Catherine's has already become a place of considerable 
importance. To Lake Ontario from this place, ,5 miles, 
there are four locks, 32 feet by 125, and one of 10 feet 
lift. The route runs chiefly along the valley of the prin- 
cipal branch of the Twelve Mile Creek. 

Port Dalhousie, the harbour of the Welland Canal on 
Lake Ontario, is protected by two fine piers, run out 200 
or 350 3^ards, nearly at the angle of storm, which is about 
80 degrees west: the eastern overlapping the western, 
with a return pier, which is better than the break- water 
originally proposed. The ground was here found to be 
a brown alluvion, well fitted for the driving of piles. A 
large harbour for boats, and a timber pond for rafts, have 
been formed by damming the mouth of Twelve Mile 
Creek, which throws the water back over an area of 500 
acres. A waste weir lets off the surplus water without 
allowing it to enter the harbour, so that there is no cur- 
rent formed through it, and no danger is incurred of 
forming a bar at its mouth. A lock of 5 feet lift, raises 
vessels from the harbour to the basin. 

It has been ascertained that a branch canal might be 
cut on a dead level, and at the expense of only £20,000, 
from somewhere near the foot of the Mountain Ridgo 
to Niagara, 9 miles; but no decisive measures have yet 
I'een adopted. It would cross Ten, Four, Two, and One 
Mile Creeks. 

The Canada Land Company, by whom this magnifi- 
cent work has been planned and accomplished, is a cor- 
poration, under the parliament of the colony, with a 



TOWN OF GUELPII. 85 

capital of ,^800,000, of which a large portion was sup- 
plied hy individual subscriptions, partly in New York 
and En^rland. The crovernment of Upper Canada sub- 
scribed ^^'200,000 and lent $100,000. That of Lower 
Canada subscribed $100,000. The British government 
have granted them one ninth of the whole cost of the 
work, and 13,000 acres of land on the route, west of 
Welland River. Public stores, &c. are to be transported 
on the canal free of duty. 

This canal admits larger vessels than any other in 
America, except the Delaware and Chesapeake Canal 
in Pennsylvania, for which see the index. The locks 
are of wood, but built on the most approved principles. 
The common dimensions are 100 feet long, 22 wide and 
8 deep ; and are calculated for vessels of from 100 to 125 
tons burthen. The largest schooners heretofore used on 
the lakes, are stated to be not more than 90 feet long, 
20 wnde, with a burthen of from 60 to 90 tons. Many 
of the locks required puddling and flagging. 

The lockage on this Canal being all on one descent 
there never can be any want of water : Lake Erie being 
on the summit level. The numerous ponds and pools 
are however convenient reservoirs. The nature of tho 
work is such as to allow deepening the water two feet, 
by merely building the locks so much higher, and throw- 
ing a dam over Welland River. 

Men of science in the branches of engineering which 
relate to the construction of, canals, have spoken with 
approbation, and frequently admiration, of the modes 
adopted on the line of the Welland Canal : the manner 
of removing earth from deep cuttings ; the plans of the 
wooden locks, paddle gates, drawbridges, &,c. 

The Town of Giielph is a creation of the year 1827 ; 
it was laid out and settled under the direction of the 
Canada Land Companij; and a village has suddenly 
sprung up in the midst of the wilderness. The Semina- 
ry was founded the first year of its existence, and there 
were to be built the Company's office, of stone, 132 
feet square, a church and school house. This place is 
the central settlement on a tract of the Company's lands 



{;G FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

jn the Gore District, called the Township of Guelph, 
containing 42,000 acres of Crown reserves for the Six 
Nations. The Clergy Reserves are on the N. E. of it, 
beyond which are Flamboro' and Beverly. The town- 
ship of Waterloo is 8, S. W. of Guelph ; and probably 
the wealthiest farming township in the province. Guelph 
Township has a soil of black, fertile, sandy loam, bearing 
beech, maple, elm, bass, ash, cherry, some pine, cedar and 
hemlock. The surface is irregular, and the streams 
swit\. The town is on the river Speed, 12 miles from 
its confluence with Grand River, 5 from Waterloo, 14 
from Gait, 30 by the present road from Ancaster, and 25 
from Lake Ontario. A fine strait road, 8 rods wide, is 
to be opened in that direction. Rivers run from this 
town into lakes Huron, Simcoe, Erie, and Ontario ; and 
the Canada Company intend to render them all naviga- 
ble if possible. 

Burlington. The bay is remarkably fine ; it is 
sheltered from every wind, contains 15,000 acres, and is 
25 feet deep. The fort on the heights is very strong 
and commanding. A large fleet might lie under its 
protection. It is proposed to make a graving 
dock in Grindstone Creek, by damming it, under 
the guns of the fort. An artificial entrance has been 
made. 

7^u7?,rf«5, at the head of Burlington Bay, is a flourish- 
ing place, and rising in importance. 

Improvements projected pi Canada. — Among the most 
recent projects for internal improvement in Canada, is 
that of a Canal from Lake Huron to the Bay of Quinte. 
This would open a communication at a distance from 
the frontier of the United States, by which, in time of 
war, goods, military stores, munitions, &;c. might be 
transported without the risks to which they would be 
exposed on the present routes. The engineers employ- 
ed by the British government, state that there are bro- 
ken links formed by Simcoe, Cameron, Pigeon and Front 
Lakes, which might be connected wiihout any great dif- 
ficulty in one entire chain of water communication. The 
line might touch at the Marmora Iron Works, and pass 



THE WESTERN LAKES. S7 

throuj^h the new settlements near Rice Lake and the 
River Trent, which are flourishing. 

It has been proposed to make canals for sloop naviga- 
tion from Prescott to Montreal. The advantages of such 
works, taken into view witli the Welland Canal, are easy 
to estimate. At present, the transportation of 1000 
staves from Lake Erie to Montreal costs .f90. If all 
these canals were made, the cost would be reduced to 
$'50. Sloops carrying 6000 staves, could make six trips 
a year, and gain §1800. A barrel of flour now pays 
6s. for that distance, and would pay only 35. A ton of 
merchandise now costs j£4 55. for transportation between 
Prescott and Montreal, and would then cost only £1 7.y. 
^f'l'orfr, the capital of Upper Canada, is a place of con- 
siderable size. The public buildings make little figure. 
The harbour is very fine, protected by defensive works on 
Gibraltar Point. King's College is of recent institution, 
and bears the style and privileges of an university. The 
governor is chancellor, the Lord Bishop of Quebec visi- 
ter, and the Archdeacon of York president. The chan- 
cellor appoints professors. No religious tests are re- 
quired except for degrees in divinity, as at Oxford and 
Cambridge. 

The Western Lakes. 

Ontario is 180 miles long, 40 miles wide, 500 feet 
deep ; and its surface is computed at 218 feet above the 
elevation of tide water at Three Rivers, 270 miles below 
Cape Vincent. 

Erie is 270 miles long, 60 miles wide, 200 feet deep ; 
and its surface is 5G5 feet above tide water at Alban3^ 

Huron is 250 miles long, 100 miles average breadth, 
900 feet deep ; and its surface is nearly 595 feet above 
the tide water. 

Michigan is 400 miles long, 50 wide, depth unknown ; 
elevation the same as Huron. 

Green Bay is about 105 miles long, 20 miles wide, 
depth unknown ; elevation the same as Huron and Mi- 
chigan. 

J.,ake Superior is 459 miles long, 109 miles average 



88 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

width, 900 feet deep ; and its surface 1048 feet above. 
the, tide water. 

Hence the bottom of Lake Erie is not as low as the 
foot of Niagara Falls ; but the bottom of each of the 
other lakes, it will be observed, is lov/er tlian the surface 
of the ocean. 

Lake Superior is the head fountain, the grand reser- 
voir of the mighty volume. After making a semicircle 
of five degrees to the south, accommodating and enrich- 
ing one of the most fertile and interesting sections of 
the globe, it meets the tide a distance of 2000 miles from 
its source, and 5000 from the extreme point of its estua- 
ry, on the Atlantic coast. 

The lakes have a periodical rise once in 12 years. ^^ 
occurred in 1815 and 1827. *^ 

The Fkrry across Niagara river is about half a mile 
below the Falls, and may be crossed at any hour in the 
day, without danger, notwithstanding the rapidity of the 
current. Tiie descent from the bank is so steep, that it 
has been necessary to build a stair-case. 

To Buffalo, on tJie Canada side, 28i miles. 

To Chippewa, 2 miles. 

Waterloo, (Fort Erie,) 16 

(Over the ferry to Black Rock, 25 cents each passenger.) 
Buffalo, , 2i 

Opposite Buffalo, in Walerloo, are the remains of Fort 
Erie, a fortress of great consequence in the late war. 
There was a strong wall, surrounded with entrench- 
ments reaching to the lake. The remains of the British 
camp are also seen, and the trees are still wounded with 
shot. 

Battle of Erie. On the 17th of September, 1814, a 
severe action was fought at a little distance from Fort 
Erie, when a part of the American garrison, 1000 regu- 
lars and 1000 militia, made a sortie, and took the Bri- 
tish works, about 500 yards in front of their hue. The 
British had two batteries on their left, which annoyed 
the fort, and were about opening a third. Their camp 
was about two miles distant, sheltered by a wood : their 
works were garrisoned with one-third of their infantry, 
from 12 to 1500 men. and a detachmont of artillerv. 



RE.MAIIKS OX LPi"Ell CANADA. o9 

Gen. Porter with the volunteers, Col. Gibson with the 
riflemen, and Maj. Brooks with tiie 23d and 21st light 
infantry, and a few dismounted dragoons, were sent from 
the exti-eme left of the American position, by a passage 
cut through the woods, towards the enemy's right ; and 
Gen. Miller was stationed in the ravine between the fort 
and the enemy's batteries ; while Gen. Ripley had a re- 
serve under the bastions. 

A little before 3 P. M. the left columns commenced 
their attack on the enemy's right, and Gen. Miller at the 
same time pushed forward between Nos. 2 and 3 of the 
batteries, broke their line, and took their two block 
houses. Battery No. 1 was soon after deserted, tho 
guns were spiked, and the magazine of No. 3 was blown 
uj). Gen. Ripley was wounded, and Col. Gibson kill- 
ed. The action lasted about an hour, which gave time 
for the remaining two-thirds of the enemy's force to 
inarch from their camp and partake in it. The Ameri- 
cans at length retired with prisoners, having succeeded 
in their object. The British suffered so much, that Lieut. 
Gen. Drummond broke up his camp on the 21st, and re- 
tired to his entrenchments behind the Chippewa River. 

General Remarks on Upper Canada. This ex- 
tensive district has begun to increase in population with 
great rapidity, and great exertions are making to intro- 
duce improvements of various kinds. The Welland Ca- 
nal, which has already been spoken of, promises advan- 
tages of great importance to the colonies. 

Emigration has been so much encouraged by the Bri- 
tish government, for the peopling of this part of their 
possessions, that great numbers of Irish, Scotch, and 
English have come over within a few years. In the 7 
years preceding 1825, 68,000 emigrants arrived at Que- 
bec ; and in 1825, 9000. 

According to Fothergill, there were then, in Upper 
Canada, 989,294 acres of cultivated land ; grist mills, 
304 ; saw mills, 386 ; merchant stores, 394 ; houses, 
30,774 ; oxen, 27,644 ; milch cows, 67,000 ; calves, 
35,000 ; 290 townships surveyed, containing in all 17 



90 FALLS OF NIAGARA. 

million acres ; about two millions wild lands ; distillers' 
duty, $46,000. 

To Buffalo^ on the American side., 30^ miles. 

Tonawanta Creek, where the canal passes 11 miles. 

Black Rock 10 

Buffalo 2^ 

To Fort George., 14 miles. 

Quoenstown 7 

Fort George 7 

[The route from J^iagara to Albany and the Springs 
will be taken up after the route to Montreal.] — Seep. 96. 



PORT GENE3EE. 91 



ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 

392 miles. 

Those who have never travelled through the state of 
New- York, and have leisure to make so circuitous a 
route, will prefer to go to Buffalo, Lockport, or Roches- 
ter, and take the line of the Erie Canal, the Springs, 
Lake George, and Lake Champlain, in their way to 
Montreal. Many, however, will prefer to take the more 
direct route, which is by the steam boats through Lake 
Ontario, and is performed in about two days. The 
American boats go from Fort Niagara to Ogdensburgh, 
keeping towards the southern shore, and touching at 
the principal ports. The British boats make a few 
stops, but steer a course very near the middle of the 
lake, which is the boundary between the two countries : 
they are usually out of sight of land about twelve 
hours. 

Route from Niagara to Montreal. In the British 
Boats, Niagara and Dalhousie. 

The Steam boats go to York in about 4^ hours ; stop 
at Kingston in about 24 hours from Niagara, and at 
Prescott in twelve hours more ; thence stage coach to 
Cornwall ; whence a steam boat, in 5 hours, brings you 
to the foot of Lake St. Francis. A steam boat of 69 
horse power was building in 1827, to pass the rapids at 
Coteau du Lac, and to take passengers to the village of 
the Cedars, 9 miles further than heretofore by water. 
From the Cedars to the cascades is in stage coaches, about 
16 miles. Thence a steam boat goes in 4 hours to La- 
chine ; and thence to Montreal a stage coach, which 
stops at the Exchange Coffee House. The fare from 
Prescott to Montreal was $7 — and from Niagara ^20 — 
The additional expenses for board amount on the whole 
journey to about $2^. 

American Boats. 

Port GexNesee, 72 miles, at the mouth of the Genesee 
River, is a port of entry and delivery. Here are a cus^ 



92 liOUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL, 

torn house, and the village of Charlotte, in Monroe 
county. This river rises in Pennsylvania, and runs a 
gently winding course about 125 miles in the state of 
New-York. It is navigable only four miles from its 
mouth, to Carthage, where the banks are high, rocky, 
and perpendicular ; and there is a fine fall (104 feet, in- 
cluding the rapids, &;c.) about half a mile above. Stage 
coaches are in waiting for Rochester, 6 miles. See 
Carthage, page 64. 

Great Sodus Bay, 35 m. Here are three bays in 
succession : Sodus, East, and Port Bays. There are 
three Islands, and Port Glasgow is at the head of the 
bay, only lOi miles from Clyde, on the canal, with a 
good road to it. 

Oswego, 28 m. This village is situated at the mouth 
of Oswego River, and has a good harbour, with 10 feet 
water. Navigation on the river ends half a mile above, 
except for boats, which go 12 miles further, A very 
large button-wood tree, o5i feet in circumference, is 
seen a mile from the village near the road. 

This place is likely to become one of the most 
rapid growth and improvement in all the state of 
New-York. Its prosperity, not being derived directly 
from the influence of the Erie Canal, but from one of 
its principal branches, is of a date correspondent with the 
commencement of the latter work, 1826. It was to be 
completed in July, 1828. It joins the Erie Canal at Sa- 
lina, and will afford an interesting excursion either way. 
From the head of the falls to tiie village, it leads along 
the river's bank, preserving the elevated level almost 
to the brow of the hill over the Lake, and then descends 
by locks. For the distance of a mile the interval be- 
tween the canal and the river affords the most advan- 
tageous situations for manufactories of various de- 
scriptions, for which the laud was purchased in lots in 
1827 at from $2,500 to |3,500. The building lots in 
the village have risen in value in a correspondent de- 
gree ; and there is reason to believe that the expecta- 
tions of the public will be fulfilled with regard to the 
growth of the place. Lake vessels can lie on one side 



SACKETT S HARBOUR. 93 

o£ the manufactories and canal boats on the other ; and 
Congress have appropriated ^35,000 for protecting the 
harbour with piers. The opening of the Welland canal 
will probably increase the business of the place, which, 
before these improvements, was out of the way of tra- 
vellers, except as a point where the steam boats stopped. 
The lake is 70 miles wide opposite Oswego. 

Fort Oswego, so famous in the history of the French 
and revolutionary wars, stands on the east side of the 
river. The situation was very advantageous for the 
command of a large extent of country, as this river is 
the common outlet of all the interior lakes of the state. 
While this post was held alternately by the French and 
English, they could command a great part of the trade 
with the Five Nations of Indians, who inhabited the 
country with which it commu ic xted. 

Fort Oswego is elevated only about 50 feet from the 
level of the water ; and being overlooked by the emi- 
nence on which Fort Ontario was afterwards erected, 
was fit only for a defence in early times. A trading 
house was built here in 17 '22, and a fort five years after. 
This was extended in the beginning of the French war 
of 1755, when Fort Ontario was built. On the follow- 
ing year. General Montcalm came from Canada, and 
"besieged the fortresses with 3000 troops, and two vessels. 
Fort Ontario was evacuated after one attack ; and on 
the following day, August 14th, Fort Oswego surren- 
dered to the French, with a large quantity of stores 
brought at great expense through the wilderness, and 21 
cannon, 14 mortars, &:c. also two sloops, and about 200 
boats. The captors, however, did not think proper to 
hold the position, but immediately abandoned it. 

Col. St. Leger attempted to approach Albany by this 
route in 1777, in order to co-operate with Gen. Bur- 
goyne ; but he was repulsed at Fort Stanwix by Col. 
Willet, and obliged to return. 

In 1814, on the 6th of May, the British attacked the 
place, and, after a loss of about 100 men, got possession 
of it, but evacuated it the next day. 

Sackett's Harbour, 40 m. Settled in 1801. In the 



94 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 

late war, it became an important naval station, and in- 
creased very rapidly. It is 8 miles distant from the 
lake, on Hounslow Bay. The harbour is divided into 
two by a narrow point, and offers great advantages for 
ship building. A first rate man of war is still unfinish- 
ed on the stocks, undar a shelter, and another at Black 
River. On the shore are seen the stone Barracks, 
which enclose about ten acres of ground. 

Cape Vincent, 20 m. The St. Lawrence is here di- 
vided by Grand Island. Kingston, in Upper Canada, 
lies opposite, at the distance of 1 1 miles. 

MoRRisTowN. This is a small village, 10 miles from 
Ogdensburg. The river is a little more than a mile in 
breadth, and on the opposite side is Brockville. There 
is a number of rocky islands in the St. Lawrence, and 
the gentle slope of the land on the New-York shore, 
adds a great degree of beauty to the scene. 

General Wilkinson embarked at this place in 1813. 

Ogdensburgh, formerly Oswegatchie. This is the 
end of the navigation, and here the steam boat stops. 
The village is pretty, contains some large stores, and 
carries on considerable business. On the other side of 
the river is Prescott, where the British steam boat stops. 
The ruins of Fort Osiocgatchie^ or Fort Presentation, 
ma}'^ still be traced. It was not very large, and contain- 
ed only a bomb-proof, two buildings of stone, barracks, 
&:c. It was built in the beginning or middle of the 
last century. Grapes are cultivated here with great 
success. 

The Thousand Islands are a most beautiful part of 
the navigation, presenting themselves in every variety 
of forms, though never rising to any great elevation. 
They might be compared with the islands of Lake 
George. 

Gallop Islands, 5 m. Here the rapids of the St. 
Lawrence begin. A number of mills will be seen at 
different places on the shore. On Siony Mand was a 
fort of some consequence, which was taken by General 
Amherst on his way to Montreal, in the year 1760. 



MONTREAL. 95 

St. Regis, 54 m. The Indian tribe which bears this 
name have a reservation of land here 1 1 miles by 3. 
Lachine, 53 m. (See Index.) 
Montreal, 9 m. (See do.) 



i2 



i)G llOUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 



ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the 
margin of Niagara River, a little way from its head, 
and opposite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. 
It was burnt by the British during the war in 1814, but 
has since been rebuilt and increased to a much greater 
size. Black Rock long disputed with Buffalo the privi- 
lege of having the Basin of the Cana,l built in her har- 
bour and at last obtained it. A pier about two miles in 
length was bxiilt to secure the boats and vessels from 
the waves of the lake, as well as to raise the v/ater for 
the supply of the canal to the Genesee River. The 
work, however, has its disadvantages : for the swift- 
ness of the current in the river, and the heaping up of 
the ice on the shores, prove great obstacles to the navi- 
gation, and the pier has suffered repeated injuries. 

BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock. 

Inns. The Eagle Tavern, &c. 

'jphe situation of this village is remarkably convenient 
and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle ascent, 
rising from the immediate vicinity of the lake. The 
principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking 
out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented 
with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome 
dwelling houses, together with several pubiic buildings, 
all erected since the burning of the village by the British in 
1814, as well as the buildingsin the other streets, which are 
fast increasing every year. In April, 1814, only one house 
was standing in the village, that of a widow in the up- 
per part of the street. A large piece of ground has 
been left in the middle of the town for a public square, 
where several roads meet, and which it is intended to 
ornament with public edifices. A walk has also been 
laid out on the brow of the hill towards the Lake. 
This is called the Terrace, and affords a charming view 
upon the lake, the harbour, and the canal, to Black 



lO 




BUFFALO. 97 

Rock. In 1825, a small village grew up below the Ter- 
race, 5 taverns being built, with 65 other houses, before 
which there was but one house. One of tliem will ac- 
commodate 200 persons. The largest store in the state 
is believed to be one of these, which is 90 feet by 70, 
and 3 stories high. The township was found to contain 
6000 inhabitants that year. 

The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature 
for the junction of the two kindt^^ of navigation which 
are here brought together : the entrance from the Lake 
being sheltered by the point on which the light house is 
erected, and tiie two small rivers which here unite their 
waters, affording every convenience for landing and re- 
shipping goods. The shores of these are very bold, 
and they are connected by a natural channel, which 
serves the purposes of a basin, as well as of an easy 
communication ; and as the canal to Black Rock com- 
mences close by it, the inland transportation begins 
without more ado. Sixty vessels traded with Buffalo in 
1827, including the steam boats ; of which number 7 
were Canadian. The steam boat Pioneer plied to Dun- 
kirk, and the Chippewa to Chippewa. About 30,000 
barrels of salt were shipped for the westward during 
that year. 

The water of the Creek was brought into the village, 
in 1827, from above the falls, by a canal 3 miles long, 
which will supply a head of water for machinery. 

The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore of the 
Lake. The first part of it is through a low, sandy 
level, where the excavations were much impeded by the 
water which soaked through in great abundance. About 
half a mile from Buffalo, the workmen hit upon a bed 
of old half-decayed trees, which v^^as dug into to the 
depth of six feet, and extended about half a mile. 
Many branches and logs were discovered, which pre- 
served all the grain of the wood ; but the greater part 
was a black mass of matter, which, on being dried, 
burned with greater readiness. In some places, ashes 
and coals were found ; and some of the logs appeared 



93 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

to have been washed and rolled by the water of the lake 
before they were buried. 

VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE. 

At Buffalo opens a very extensive route, for those 
who are disposed to travel still farther westward. Tliere 
is little to be seen along either shore of the Lake, which 
'would reward a common traveller for the tedium of a 
long ride over a country generally level, or for the in- 
conveniences he would experience from the want of pub- 
lic accommodations, and even tlie frequent absence of 
settlements. The price of a passage to Detroit in the 
cabin is .f,i5, and in the steerage, where nothing is sup- 
plied but ship room and access to the kitchen, half price. 
The following are the stopping places on the passage to 
Detroit, with their distances ; and steam boats run al- 
most every day. (See Ohio Canals Index.) 

From Buffalo to Erie, 90 miles. 

Erie to Grand River, 75 

Grand River to Cleaveland, 30 

Cleaveland to Sandusky... 60 

Sandusky to Detroit, 75 Total 330 

The United States government are imp.oviag several 
of these harbours. 

The steam boat Pioneer ran, in 1827, from Buffalo 
to Dunkirk, connecting with the stage coaches to Cleave- 
land, which divide there, and go south to Worcester and 
to Newburgh, and west to Milan and Lower Sandusky. 
Michigan is a territory fast rising in population, 
wealth and importance. A large branch of the tide of 
emigration from the eastern states and New-York has 
been turned in that directioi; within three or four 
years, encouraged by the judicious system adopted by 
the government of the United States, in selling the land 
at reasonable prices for cash. Experience has proved in 
other public lands, the difficulties that must ever arise 
from credits to settlers, even with nominally high prices. 
The sober, industrious and frugal can generally produce 
or borrow money enough to purchase a small farm ; 



BUFFALO. 99 

and then they have many encouragements to exertion 
which a wretched population in debt, would never feel. 
There may be seen a state of things similar to that wit- 
nessed in Ohio twenty or thirty years ago ; and in that 
length of time it is presumed that changes no less im- 
portant will be presented in Michigan. 

The surface and soil are favourable to cultivation. 
There are a succession of gentle undulations, gradually 
rising towards the interior ; and the regularity of the 
ground, with the remarkably open nature of the forests, 
it is said, permit carriages to travel for hundreds of miles 
without meeting any obstacle. It has been pro- 
posed to avoid the long circumnavigation of the whole 
peninsula by making a canal across the neck. 

Green Bay, on Lake Huron, is interesting as a posi- 
tion occupied by a military garrit^on, and the seat of a 
large number of Indians, for whose improvement some 
exertions have been recently made. The principal tribe 
residing there are the Menominie, or Wild Rice Indians, 
who are both numerous and powerful, and partly civ- 
ilized. 

The Fox river, which empties into Green Bay, flows 
through a very fertile country ; and the time is not very 
far distant when the head waters of the stream will be 
united by a canal with the Ouisconsin, which flows into 
the Mississippi. The climate of Green Bay is remark- 
ably healthful. The lead mines on Fevre river are now 
wrought by about five thousand men. 

Ancient Fortifications. 

On Buffalo Creek, and towards Genesee River also, 
are several large and interesting remnants of Ancient For- 
tifications ; but as they lie off the road, few travellers 
will visit them. They appear to form part of a great 
chain of defensive works extending from the eastern part 
of Lake Ontario, along that Lake and Erie, down the 
Ohio and Mississippi Rivers to Mexico. This is the opin- 
ion of Mr. Atwater, of Circlevilie, Ohio, who Las pub- 
lished some very interesting details, drawings, &c. con- 



100 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALCANV. 

nected with them, m his "Archasologia Americana." A 
line of old forts extends from Cataraugus Creek, 50 miles, 
along the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Pennsylva- 
nia. They are on the borders of creeks and old bays, al- 
though now from 2 to 5 miles distant from the Lake, 
which is supposed to have retired that distance since they 
were built. Another similar line is said to exist in the 
rear of them, on another parallel elevation. 

Much curiosity and speculation have been called forth 
by these singular monuments of antiquity. Some re- 
gard them as marks of a civilized people ; others as the 
works of Indian tribes. Some traces of a tradition refer- 
ring them to the latter are said to have been lately dis- 
covered. 

Seneca Castle. The Seneca nation possess a large 
and valuable tract of land adjoining Buffalo on the east, 
and they have two villages 3 and 5 miles on the road. 
The Senecas are the westernmost tribe in the confedera- 
cy of the Five Nations, and have always held a conspic- 
uous rank in tlicir history. They were formerly consid- 
ered the most numerous and powerful tribe, and preserv- 
ed this superiority until the fatal defeat they received 
from Gen. Schuyler, in 1778, since which they have made 
a less conspicuous figure. 

Beside the land they possess, which is remarkable for 
its fertility, the nation are in possession of a large sum in 
the United States Bank stock, the dividend for which 
they receive annually. 

The most remarkable person of the Seneca nation now 
living, is the famous Red Jacket, who inhabits a small 
log house, in a very retired situation, about four miles 
from Buffalo, and one mile north of the road through the 
reservation. He has rendered himself conspicuous for 
many years by his eloquence, and formerly possessed an 
extensive influence over his countrymen. But he is now 
old and poor, and worse still, not too temperate. He 
has always maintained a resolute opposition to the in- 
troduction of the Christian religion among his nation, 
iind once succeeded in excluding all ministers from cn^ 



BATAVIA. 101 

tering- the reservation. In 1827 he was deposed from 
the rank of a chief by his tribe, on these grounds. 

Billy is another very old man of the tribe, and of a 
character very different from that of Red Jacket. He is 
a good orator, but his real worth, as well as his influence, 
depends on the more substantial qualities of a sincere 
and consistent Christian. His example, and the instruc- 
tion for some time enjoyed in the nation, have produced 
great effects on a portion of the families. The traveller 
will observe several farms under a degree of cultivation, 
and may meet with individuals who conform pretty near- 
ly to the English style of dress, and have introduced some 
of our customs into their houses. The greater part of 
them, however, speak no language but Indian. 

Stage Road from Buffalo to Canandaigua. 

The first few miles of this road present very little in- 
terest ; 15 or 20 miles of it were fonnerly remarkable 
as passing over an old causeway of logs. The logs made 
the travelling rough and disagreeable ; but as they are 
gradually covered over with earth, the difficulties are 
lessening every year. To those who are not accustom- 
ed to a country so new and wild as this, a word or two 
may not be amiss on the manner in which roads are first 
made in an American settlement. In thick forests, the 
surface of the ground is covered to the depth of one or 
two feet with the roots of trees, which are extremely dif- 
ficult to be removed, and are very dangerous for horses 
or oxen to pass over. A close layer of logs, although it- 
self sufficiently rough, forms a much safer and more con- 
venient path, and is usually adopted with great advan- 
tage. There is another reason for it — the elevation of 
the road above the common surface, secures it from be- 
ing overflowed by the water, which in the moist seasons 
of the year would impede the travelling in low and 
marshy places. 

Batavia, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome 
village, and contains the residence of the present and 



102 ROUTE TO NIAGARA. 

former Agents of the Holland Land Company, (Messrs. 
Evans and Otto,) as well as the county buildings. 

Leroy, 10 miles. 

The Wadsworth Farm, at Geneseo, contains about 
4000 acres, about 1700 of which are rich alluvial land 
on the banks of the Geaesee river. Various branches of 
agriculture have been tried on this fertile tract of coun- 
try ; but the raising of sheep has been found the most 
profitable, and the farm has been almost entirely con- 
verted into mowing fields and pastures. The number of 
sheep, in 1827, was computed at 13,000. The residence 
of the proprietor is in a fine and spacious building, in a 
commanding situation ; and the whole aspect of the 
farm indicates the good order and method with which it 
is conducted. Mr. Rogers has a very fine farm in Moscow. 

The Genesee meadows were formerly the residence of 
a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and when 
Gen. Sullivan reached this place in his march through 
the country, he found and burnt a village of 120 
log houses, on the second bank, which had been de- 
serted at his approach. One of his scouts was cut off 
while his army was near the west bank of the river, and 
only one man escaped ; but the Indians constantly fled 
as he approached, and there was no fighting in all this 
western part of the state. 

The remains of a Mammoth were dug up about half a 
mile from the village of Geneseo in 1825. There were 
r> teeth and grinders, parts of a tusk, a thigh bone 3 feet 
long, the lower bone of the leg 3 feet 6 inches, &c. 
They lay between strata of vegetable mould and sand. 

West Bloomfield, beyond the Genesee River, is one 
of the finest agricultural townships in the state, and pre- 
sents a succession of beautiful farms, tilled with care 
and yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives remarkably 
well in all this western country, as the slightest atten- 
tion to the orchards will sufficiently prove ; and while 
in smoothness and neatness the fields rival those of the 
oldest districts farther east, the orchards exceed them in 
luxuriance and product. The Black Apple is a species 
of fruit which has been said to be peculiar to this region. 



BURNING SPRINGS. lOJ 

East Bloomfield is the next village ; and the gene- 
ral remarks just made, may with justice be applied to 
tliis place also. 

CANANDAIGUA. 

Inn. Blossom's Stage House. 

This is one of the finest western towns, and its princi- 
pal street runs along ihe ridge of a commanding hill, 
rising from the north end of Canandaigua Lake. It is 
wide, and contains an Academy, and many handsome 
houses, particularly that of the late G ideon Granger. The 
road in passing Canandaigua Lake, commands a finer 
view than on any of the other lakes it passes, except 
Skeneateles. The banks are high and variegated, and at 
the distance of two or three miles, rise to an imposing 
height, and add a great degree of beauty to the scene. A 
number of gentlemen's seats are seen along the western 
bank ; and a little way off in the lake on the same side, 
is"! small rocky island, where the Seneca Indians carried 
all their women, children, and old men, when Gen. 
Sullivan appeared against them. 

The new steam-boat Lady of tlie Lake, began 
to run regularly on Canandaigua Lake in 1827 ; 
and a hotel was to be built at the head of it. It is on 
the Annesley plan — that is, built entirely of boards with- 
out the use of timbers. — A railroad is to be made to the 
Canal. 

Stage coaches go to Rochester every day. 

Burning Springs. 

Springs of water, charged with inflammable gas, are 
quite common in Bristol, Middlesex, and Canandaigua. 

The gas from the former rises through fissures of the 
slate, from both the margin and the bed of the brook. 

Their places are known by little hillocks of a few feet 
in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of a dark 
bituminous mould, through which it finds its way to the 
surface, in one or more currents. These currents of 
gas may be set on fire, and will burn with a stead}/ 

K 



iU4 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

flame. In winter they form opening's through the snow, 
and being set on fire, exhibit the novel and interesting 
phenomenon of a steady and hvely flame in contact with 
nothing but snow. In very cold weather, it is said, tubes 
of ice are formed round these currents of gas, (probably 
from the freezing of the water contained in it,) which 
sometimes rise to the height of two or three feet, the gas 
issuing from their tops ; the whole when lighted in a 
still evening, presenting an appearance even more beau- 
tiful than the former. 

From a pit which was sunk in one of the hillocks, the 
gas is conducted through bored logs, to the kitchen of 
a dwelling. The novelty of tlie spectacle attracts a con- 
course of visiters, so great that the proprietors have 
found it expedient to convert their dwelling into a pub- 
lic inn. 

The road between Canandaigua and Geneva passes 
over a singular tract of country, the form of which will 
not fail to be remarked by an observant traveller. The 
ground gradually rises by large natural terraces, or steps, 
for about half the distance, and descends in the same 
manner on the other side to Seneca Lake. These steps, 
or terraces, appear to have been formed by those strong 
currents of water of which geologists speak, which at 
some ancient period of time have evidently passed over 
many tracts of country in different parts of the world. 
The ridges and channels thus formed here stretch north 
and south, frequently to a considerable distance, corres- 
ponding both in form and direction with the numerous 
lakes which are found in this part of the state. Several 
ancient fortifications have been traced here. From the 
middle ridge the view is extensive ; but the surrounding 
country is of too uniform a surface to present any re- 
markable variety of scenery. 

GENEVA. 

This town occupies a charming situation at the foot of 
Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its western bank, 
which rises to a considerable elevation above the surface. 



CAVUGA LAKE. 105 

and afl'ords room for a broad and level street. The 
buildings in this village are remarkably neat and hand- 
some, 

A college has lately been instituted in this place. The 
building is of stone, with 26 rooms for students, a chapel 
and library. It is warmed only in the stoves. Rev. 
J. Adams is president. 

A steam-boat was building in 1827, to ply on the lake. 
It was to have a power of about 40 horses ; and will be 
found to afford a delightful excursion to travellers. 

Seneca Lake 

is 35 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. Its depth is un- 
usually great, and the water clear and very cold, to w^hich 
is referred the scarcity of fish. Tliere is a remarkable 
phenomenon long observed by those who reside near it, 
which has never been satisfactorily accounted for. The 
water has a regular rise and fall every seven years. This 
is perceptible along the shore, but more practically estab- 
lished in the experience of the boatn?.en. 

A stage coach runs from Geneva up the east side of 
the lake, and then crosses to the head of Cayuga Lake, 
to the village of Ithaca ; hut ihc road is not interesting, 
and the more agreeable mode of reacliing that village is 
by taking the steam boat at Cayuga bridge, 14 miles 
from Gene^'^a, on the great mail route. 

The Cat/uga and Seiieca CanoU which was to be com- 
plcte<l in May, 182J5, will open boat navigation between 
these lakes and the Erie canal. 

Cayuga Lake 

is 40 miles in length, and generally about 2 in breadth. 
A fine bridge is built across it near the northern end, 
where it is a mile wide. The steam boats Telemachus 
and Elxperiment ply between Cayuga bridge and Itha- 
ca, at the head of the lake. The former is on Annes- 
Icy's plan, and carries only passengers. It is small and 
frequently used to tow boats on th.e lake ; but it is large 



106 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

enough to accommodate a considerable number of pas- 
t^engers, and is frequently crowded with parties from the 
neighbouring- country, as well as travellers, as the ex- 
cursion is one of the pieasantest that can be taken in 
this part of the state. li; also connects several lines of 
stage coaches, which the traveller will do well to notice 
if lie wishes to go to Cat I skilly jYewburg, Mew-York, or 
Ntw-Jersey, by the most direct routes. These routes 
will be noticed on arriving at Ithaca. 

The price of a passage in the steam boat is one dol- 
lar. A little before arriving at the head of the lake, a 
beautiful Waierfall is seen on the left hand, where a 
fc.tream of water flows over a very high precipice into a 
deep glen, and forces its way along, turning several valu- 
able mills in its course. The landing place is about 
three miles from the village of Ithaca, but lumber boats 
can pass the bar at the mouth of the inlet, and proceed 
up to the street. 

The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here 
centre three roads to CattsklU, JVeivhurg, and Ktio-York. 
The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson 
River, the second passes the Great Bend of the Dela- 
ware, and the third furnishes daily the shortest route to 
New-York. 

The Cascade. 

This beautiful and romantic scene about 3 miles from 
the village, is one of the most picturesque that can be 
imagined. The height and solemnity of tlie surround- 
ing rocks, the darkness of their shadows, and the beauty 
of the sparkling spray, unite to produce an impression 
of pleasure which is rarely experienced at the sight of 
any scene, however extraordinary for beauty or sub- 
limity. 

Ithaca and Oswego Railroad. The legislature, in 1828, 
passed an act authorizing the construction of a railroad 
from this place to the Susquehannah river at Oswego. 
The distance is about 30 miles, the expense is estimated 
at ,$'120,000, or ^'4,000 a mile. This is one fourth more 



AUBUilxX. 107 

than the Maucli Chunk railway cost, and tlie same prico 
as that estimated for the Hudson and Delaware Rail- 
way, the rails for which are to be imported from Eng- 
land. Thet^oil and surface are favourable, labour and ma- 
terials cheap ; and the amount of produce which would 
pass thai way from the neighbouring country, is estimat- 
ed at 12,000 tons annually, v/hich alone would pay 16 
per cent, on the cost. To this ought to be added about 
10,000 tons of plaster and salt. The market for lumber 
is best at New York. 500 tons of plaster and salt are 
now annually transported from Ithaca to Oswego by 
land, and sent down the Susquehannali. 

In consequence of the earlier opening of navigation 
on the Susquehannah, in the spring, than on the Erie 
Canal, and its being closed later in the fall, great ad- 
vantages, it is thought, would be obtained by Baltimore ; 
and even the fact that the navigation is longer free on 
the western than the eastern part of that canal every 
year, would probably divert a considerable am.ount of 
transportation to this route. It is stated that the freight 
of a barrel of whiskey or pork from Ithaca to Baltimore, 
would be only 92 cents ; while it is ^1 19 to New York 
by the Erie Canal. 

The Cayuga and Susquehannah Canal. The route 
proposed in from Cayuga Lake, near the mouth of Cas- 
cadilla, through Ithaca, along Mud Creek and the valley 
of the Oswego, to the Susquehannah, The amount of 
lockage is 7G0 feet ; the distance 31 miles ; and the esti- 
mated expense 320,000 dollars. 

The canal to unite the Cayuga and Seneca waters 
with tiie Erie Canal, passes through Waterloo, from 
Geneva down the valley of Seneca River to Monte- 
zuma. 

AUBURN 

is another beautiful village, and merits the name it has 
borrowed from Goldsmith's charming poetry. It is un- 
fortunately placed at some distance from Oswego Lake, 
and therefore is deprived of the picturesque character 
k2 



108 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

which it might have enjoyed. There is a Theological 
Seminary in Auburn, has a good number of students. 
There are several handsome public buildings in this 
place, but the most important is the 

State Prison. 

This institution, having been managed by Mr. Lynds, 
and established on his system so excellent, so celebrated, 
and with remarkable success, merits particular no- 
tice. 

"The old Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost 
about |'300,000 ; it is constructed upon the plan of a hol- 
low square, enclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, 
being 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 
feet in height. The north wing of the building differs 
very much in its construction from any building of the 
kind, and the use of which is conceived to be one of the 
greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the best 
aids to prison discipline, which has been anywhere made. 
The workshops are built against the inside of the outer 
wall, fronting towards the yard, from which every shop 
is visible, forming a continued range of 940 feet. With 
such alterations as it may undergo, it can be made to 
hold llOOconvicts, At the close of 1827, it contained 525. 

The new one is thus described in the newspapers. 

One building designed to contain 400 cells, covers 
only 206 by 46 feet of ground. There are 5 stories of 
cells, each containing eighty in two parallel lines, divi- 
ded in the middle by a wall two feet thick. The walls 
between the cells are one foot thick. The cells are 7 
feet long, 7 high, and 3-^ wide, intended to receive only 
one convict in each. Each cell has a ventilator extend- 
ing to the roof, and is so constructed in front, that the 
prisoners can neither converse or make signs to each 
other. The area around the cells is 10 feet wide and 
open to the roof, which covers the galleries of the seve- 
ral stories. Besides the moral benefit arising from keep- 
ing the prisoners separate, it unites that of economy and 
.security. From the construction of the prison, 5 small 



STATE PRISON. JOD 

Stoves, 6 large and 12 small lamps, all out of reach of 
the convicts, afford heat and light to 555 cells ; and one 
centinel is sufficient to 400 prisoners. 

The expenditures at the Auburn prison are pronoun- 
ced to have been neither wasteful nor improper. The 
number of convicts in 1823, was 300 ; the gross expense 
of the prison ^<;20,589, the earnings of the prisoners 
^9,807, net expense to the public $10,781, and net ex- 
pense for each convict during the year |34 78. The 
gross expense of the prison at New- York in 1824, was 
$55,792, the earnings of the prisoners |33,316, the num- 
ber of convicts 608, the gross cost for each ,^'91 67, and 
the net cost $'22 67. A large prison has been built in 
Westchester after this plan to supersede that of New- 
York. 

The discipline observed in this prison, (said the commit- 
tee in 1825,) only require to be seen to be duly appre- 
ciated. The conduct of the prisoners while at their la- 
bour, and their quietness under the privations of the 
prison, prove, that the discipline is complete and effec- 
tive ; and the main cause of the order and decorum thus 
observed, is, that in all matters of discipline, there is but 
one head or principal. The inspectors of this prison, 
have resigned to the principal keeper, Mr. Lynds, the 
discretionary power of directing and controlling the dis- 
cipline and punishment of the convicts, and the conduct, 
deportment, and duty of the assistant keepers. This 
measure of the inspectors is both wise and judicious, and 
has produced throughout the establishment the most 
happy results ; and the gentleman in whom this confi- 
dence is placed, is in every respect worthy of it; for he 
is a man eminently qualified for the station he occupies; 
possesses more than common talents and firmness as a 
disciplinarian ; appears to devote his whole mind to the 
duties of his office, and has a taste for order, neatness, 
and regularity, seldom surpassed." 

Minute observations on the comparative labour of a 
free person and a convict show that the latter does not 
accomplish as much in a day as the former. In the year 
1823, the balance against the New- York prison was 



110 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

$in,633; and tliat against the Auburn prison vrnn 
i^lO,780. The committeee state that the kind of work 
proper for a state prison should unite the following pro- 
perties : that the demand should be great, the material 
cheap, the trade easily learned, a business which cannot 
be so conducted by machinery as to reduce the wages 
too low, and a trade in which hard work can be enfor- 
ced and made the more profitable. 

The pardoning power ought to be exercised with great 
caution by the executive ; for perhaps no circumstance 
has so much contributed to do away the terrors of pun- 
ishment as the facilities afforded the worst part of our 
species in obtaining a pardon. 

./Indent Fortifications, There are some remains of 
ancient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as well 
as in the neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onondaga, 
and Pompey. 

If the traveller should wish to take the canal, a stage 
coach goes every day to Weed's Basin, 8 miles, and car- 
ries passengers for 50 cents, to meet the canal boats, 
which pass at stated periods. 

From Auburn to Syracuse, 
By the Canals 34 milts. 

(Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) 8 miles. 

Jordan Village, in Camillus township, G 

A proposition has been made for a canal from 
Jordan to Homer, on the Susquehannah, 
which has been found practicable. The dis- 
tance is 34 miles, of which, only 14 will 
require to be dug. 
Canton, (half-way village between Buffalo and 
Albany, 179 miles from the former, and 183 

from the latter,) (> 

Geddes Village, (with salt works,) 12 

>Syracuse, 2 

By the Road 28 miles. 

Skeneateles, 8 

Maroellus, 6 



UTICA. Ill 

Onondaga, 10 miles. 

Syracuse, 4 

Syracuse. For a description of this place, as well as 
of Salina, the Salt Spring, and Sail Manufactories, sec 
page 57. 

Although tlie routes east of Syracuse, both by the ca- 
nal and by the road, are given in other places, and al- 
though they may be traced on the maps, it may perhaps 
be convenient to have them repeated in the reversed or- 
der, for travellers going towards Albany. {For places 
see Index.) 

From Syracuse to Utica, 
Bi/ the Canal, 61 miles. 

Manlius Landing,* 9 

Chitteningo Creek, S 

At Chitteningo is an Academy where some of 
the higher branches are taught. (A curious 
petrijied tree lies near this place a few steps 
from the canal, which was found with many 
of its branches.) 

Canastota Village and Basin, 8 

Oneida Creek, 3 

Wood Creek, 13 

Rome, 3 

Oriskany Village, 8 

Whitesborough, 3 

Utica, 4 

By the Road, 48 miles. 

Derne, 3 

Manlius, 3 

Sullivan, 9 



' About 20 yards from the canal, Gypsum (plaster of Paris) 
is obtained in masses of frinn 1 to TOO tons. 



112 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

Vernon, 11 

Westmoreland, 6 

New Hartford, 7 

Utica, 4 

For Utica,* Hamilton College, and Trenton 
Falls, see page 52. 

From Utica to Schenectady, 
By the Canal., Idl miles. 

Lock, No. 53, (end of the long level, which be- 
gins wesstward at Salina, and extends to this 

place, 69^ miles, without a lock,) 9 miles. | 

Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer Village, 5 

Little Falls, 8 

Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet high- 
er than the canal, 712 above high water in 
the Hudson River, and about 145 above Lake 

Erie, 1 

Old Mohawk Castle, 5 

Fort Plain, -9^ 

Canajoharie, 4 

A railway has been proposed, to run hence to 

Catskil), 60 

Anthony's Nose, 5 

(This scene is represented in the plate from this side. 
The bluff on the right is Anthony's Nose, on the top of 
which a remarkable cavern opens, extending further 
down than it has ever been explored.) 

Schoharie Creek, 11 

Amsterdam Village, (across the river,) 5 

Flint Hill, 6 

Rotterdam Flats, 8 

Schenectady, 3 



* Early in 1828 there were three dailv lines of coaches ruu- 
ning hence to BuiFalo. 



LOlIOliS FALLb. 113 

Road to Albany, 15^. miles. Numerous coaches go 
every day. A rail road is to be constructed. 

Road to Ballston and Saratoga. Both these roads 
offer the shortest and most expeditious communication 
with the places to which they conduct, and if the tra- 
veller should be in pressing haste, he should avail him^ 
self of them. 

To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the canal 
boats are recommended to the Mohawk bridge, although 
they are liable to many dela3's at the numerous locks 
along this difficult but interesting part of the canal. 

From Schenectady to Albany, 
By the Canal, 28i miles. 

Alexander's Bridge, (on the turnpike road to 

Albany and Boston — an interesting scene,)... 4^ miles. 
Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal crosses 

the Mohawk,) :J- 

The Young Engineer, a rock on the right, so 
called, where the cutting is the deepest on 

the whole route, 32 feet deep, 4 

Wat Hoix Gap, 5^ 

(A natural channel through which the canal is led 
more than 200 yards. The rocks are Grawacke slate. 
In the river is the Wat Hoix Rapid, which the Indians 
called the Evil Spirit, and sometimes the White Horse.) 
Lower Aqueduct, 1188 feet long, on which the 
canal crosses the Mohawk again, on 24 stone 

abutments and piers 21^ 

The four Locks, 8 feet each, and Cohoes Falls, 2 

The two Locks, 9 feet each, | 

The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge over 

the Mohawk, \ 

(Hence to Waterford, on the road to Ballston, Sarato- 
ga, &;c. is about a mile and a half, where stage coaches 
are continually passing in the visiting season. By leav- 
ing the boat here, or a little below, where the canal 
meets the road, a seat may frequently be found in a pass- 
ing coach, to Waterford or the Springs ; or some may 



114 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO ALBANY. 

prefer to take a boat on the Northern Canal, which if? 
close at hand. We shall take up the land route after 
giving the few remaining objects on the way to Albany, 
and referring the reader to page 30 for a description of 
that city.) 
The Junction, where the Northern Canal, from 

Lake Champlain meets the Erie Canal, ^ mile^ 

West Troy, 1 

(Here is a cluster of buildings about the basins where 
the Troy boats lie. The dam across the Mohawk will 
afford an easy communication between the canal and 
Troy, which is seen on the opposite side. A good horse 
ferry-boat plies below.) 

United States' Arsenal, 1 

The Manor House of Gen. Van Rensselaer, 

called Rensselaerwyck, 5 

Albany, 1 



WATERFORD. H^ 



ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

[For the Road and Canal between Albany and Water- 
ford, see page 38, and onward,] 

Waterford. 

This village is situated on the west side of the Hud- 
son, across which the communication is convenient by- 
means of the first bridge vve have seen over this river. 
Lansingbargh stands opposite, and is a place of con- 
siderable size, but wearing an aspect of gradual decay. 
The streets of Waterford are wide, regular, and hand- 
somely built. Some of the private houses are remarka- 
ble for their neatness. There are numerous rocky islands 
with precipitous sides, at the mouth of the Mohawk Ri- 
ver, which are seen at a little distance below the bridge. 
The boats on the Champlain Canal enter the Mohawk 
in full view of them, through guard locks, and are poled 
across, the current being stopped by a dam. The Co- 
hoes Cotton Manufactory is on the south side of the 
river, at that place, and only about a quarter of a mile 
from the bridge. During the warm season of the year, 
Waterford is a great thoroughfare, lying on two roads to 
Albany, as well as in the way to both Ballston and Sara- 
toga Springs, Lake George, &zc. It is 21i miles to 
Ballston Springs, and 24 to Saratoga. 

The approach to the village from the south-west, by 
the canal and the road, is uncommonly beautiful. It 
lies quite below you, with a little meadow in front, 
bounded by the canal and the Hudson, its white houses 
mingled with fine trees, and Diamond Hill rising behind, 
with its sides half cultivated, and half covered with 
woods. 

A few chrystals are found on Diamond Hill. 

Inn. Demarest's Stage House. 

[The shortest road trom Waterford to Ballston Springs, 
is through .'Vew)^07rn-, 18^ miles. It passes over higher 
land than that through Mechanicville, and perhaps is 



116 BuuTi; TO Tiii; spniNGs-. 

not more sandy, but is not furnished with stage coaches. 
The usual road will be given afterwards. 

On leaving Wat.erford it verges to the west, and rises 
to an elevation of considerable height, which affords a 
view towards the south over a charming piece of coun- 
try : the high, half-cultivated range of hills, which ex- 
tend some miles down the Hudson in the rear of Lan- 
singburg and Troy, together with a broad strip of land 
on each side of the river, including the tract on the west 
bank, divided by ])arts of the Champlain and Erie Ca- 
nals, and the mouth of the Mohawk River. From two 
miles further on, 5^ addle Mountain appears in view in the 
East, with a single peak more in the north, and at a 
still greater distance. Much of this road is sandy, and 
a great deal of wheat and clover is cultivated. 

Newtown, 82 miles from Waterford. 

Half Moon, 4. From this place, the Catskill Moun- 
tains are plainly visible in clear weather. 

Second Inn in Half Moon, 4. 

About 3 miles beyond this place, the view opens, and 
shows that the traveller is in a kind of amphitheatre : 
The Greenfield Mountains in the west stretching far 
away towards the north, and the Vermont mountains in 
the east, which seem to approach them as they retire, with 
several fine and prominent peaks, particularly one which 
is about three miles beyond Bennington, Vt. famous for 
the defeat of Col. Baum, in the revolution. Afterwards 
the road passes near Ballston village, but without af- 
fording a sight of it. The Springs, being situated in a 
little valley, two miles beyond, the first intimation you 
have of your approach is the sight of several tall ever- 
greens, and a small pleasure house on the top of a sharp 
hill, in the rear of Aldridge's boarding house.] 

From Waterford to the Springs, bv 
Mechanicville. 

This is the usual road, but offers few objects of inter- 
est. 

Mechanicville, or the Borough, 8^ miles from Wa- 



BATTLE OF SARATOGA. 1 IT 

ierford. Here the coaches generally stop for breakfast 
or dinner. Near at hand is a Cotton Manufactory, 
whence the place derives its former name. 

DuNNiNG-sTREET. Here is a little village, at which 
the road turns off west for the Springs. About a mile 
south of it we cross the Northern Canal. 

Stillwater is 3 miles above, and 4 miles beyond that 
is Smi.fh''s Tavern., where those will stop who wish to 
visit the Battle Ground, at Bemis's Heights. 

Although the great crowd of travellers on this road 
will take the route to Ballston or Saratoga, yet as they 
will find few objects of any interest, it may be proper to 
introduce, in this place, an account of the expedition of 
Gen. Burgoyne, and the battle of Bemis's Heights, often 
known by the name of the battle of Saratoga ; as we are 
within a few^miles of the field. 

Stillwater takes its name from the smoothness and 
quietness of the Hudson, which there spreads out over a 
broad surface, and hardly shows any appearance of a 
current. It is the place to which Gen. Schuyler re- 
treated at the approacli of Gen. Burgoyne, after remov- 
ing all the stores, driving away the cattle, and throwing 
all possible obstacles in his way : afterwards retiring 
to the island at the mouth of the Mohawk ; and througJi 
this place, Gen. Gates, who soon after succeeded him 
in the command, marched up from Half Moon to take 
position on Bemis's Heights. 

The reader is referred to the Maps, to observe the im- 
portance of the tract of country which lies along the 
route we have just entered upon, f^rom Canada to the 
head of Lake Champlain there is an uninterrupted water 
communication, by which troops and every thing neces- 
sary to an army may be transported with the utmost fa- 
cility. A short land carriage reaches Lake George. 
Wood Creek, at the south end of Champlain, is naviga- 
ble in boats to Fort Anne, which is only 9 miles distant 
from Fort Edward, on Hudson River, whence the navi- 
gation is open to New-York. Here have consequently 
been many of the most important military operations 
which have ever been carried on in the United States. 



ilB ROUTK TO THE SPRINGis. 

The first battle within this region, of which history gives 
any account, was fought between the French and the 
Five Nations of Indians, soon after the settlement of 
Canada, when the latter first learnt the terrible eftect of 
gunpowder, and began to flee from the approach of civi- 
lization. In the numerous expeditions which at subse- 
quent periods were undertaken by the British against 
Canada, this route was taken in the attack, and not un- 
frequently in the retreat. The important events of the 
war of 1735, were almost confined to this region ; and 
the revolution and the last war with England, produced 
scenes which will be touched upon in their places. 

The first period to which we shall refer, is that of the 
revolution ; and the first scene that of the battle of Sara- 
toga, or Bemis's Heights, towards which we are fast ap- 
proaching. 

" I could here," says Dr, Dwight, " almostforget that 
Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy my- 
self with recollecting, that to his invincible gallantry, 
and that of the brave olficers and soldiers whom he led, 
my country was, under God, indebted in a prime degree, 
for her independence, and all its consequent blessings. 
I should think that an American, peculiarly an inhabitant 
of New-England or New-York, little to be envied, whose 
patriotism did not gain force upon the heights of Still- 
water, or the plains of Saratoga. These scenes I have 
examined : the former with solemnity and awe, the lat- 
ter with ardour and admiration, and both with enthusi- 
asm and rapture. Here 1 have remembered ; and here 
it was impossible not to remember, that on this very spot 
a controversy was decided upon which hung the liberty 
and happiness of a nation destnied ouf. da^* to fill a con- 
tinent ; and of its descendants, who will probably here- 
after outnumber the inhabitants of Europe." 

BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION. 

Gen. Burgoyne* was appointed Governor of Canada 

* General Burgoyne. — {From an English Work.) — It is 
curious, that a man of such celebrity a? a writer, a senator. 



BATTLE OF SAllATOGA. 119 

;n 1777, to succeed Sir Guy Carlton. He arrived at 
Quebec in May, and reached Crown Point June 20tli. 
Gen, Phillips was sent to Ticonderoga with the British 
right wing ; and the outposts and the fort were succes- 
sively abandoned by the Americans. The news of the 
evacuation of this place was a most disheartening piece 



and an officer, as tlie late Lieut John Burgoyne, should be 
found among the number of those of whose youthful days no 
memorial has been preserved Neither the time, place, nor 
circumstances of his birth are known. Even his parentage 
is doubtful. He is said, but upon what authority it does not ap- 
pear, to have been a natural son of that Lord Biiigly, who died 
at an advanced age in 1774. That he had the advantage of a 
liberal education, and early intercourse with polished society, 
is sufficiently evident from his writings ; and it is probable 
that he was early devoted to the profession of arms, for on the 
10th of May, 1759, he was raised to the rank of Lieut. Colo- 
nel, and in the August of the ensuing year, he was appointed 
Lieut. Col. Commandant of the 16th Light Dragoons. His 
after services at diffei'ent periods, in Spaia, Portugal, and 
America, are all well known, cKpecially the unfortunate ter- 
mination of his military career at Saratoga, which, though it 
tarnished not his honour, cast a shade over his brow, ever af- 
terward conspicuous to the physiognomical eye. He made, 
on certain occasions, no ordinary figure in Parliament. He 
moved in the first ciicles, and married Lady Charlotte Stan- 
ley, a daughter of the Earl of Derby: and yet we know not 
who and what lie originally was. lie was the author of four 
successful dramas : the Maid of the Oak, the Lord of the 
Manor, Richard Coeur de Lion, and the comedy of the Heir- 
ess ; and yet the curiosity of liis biographer, even in this an- 
ecdote-dealing and memoir-sifting age, cannot trace his origia 
or the scenes of his education. The tale of the Lord of thft 
Manor seems, in some degree, to have been disguised in the 
modification of the ciiaracter and circumstances by the inci- 
dent of his own matrimonial connexion : for his was a clan- 
destine and unauthorized marriage, at a time when he held 
only a subaltern's commission in the army; and is said to 
have excited at first the resentment of the lady's father to 
such a degree, that he declared his resolution never to admit 
the otfenders into his presence, though in process of time, 
the anjrer of the Earl subsided, a reconciliation was effected, 
L 2 



i'JO ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

»>f intelligence to the country. It had been confidentiy 
fioped that an effectual resistance would there be offered 
to a force which threatened the liberty of America ; or 
at all events, that a heroic stand would be made at that 
important post, which had so long been regarded as an 
almost impregnable fortress. 

During his delay, Gen. Schuyler obstructed the chan- 
nel of Wood Creek, removed every thing valuable from 
the country, and took the stores from Fort George to 
Fort Edward ; sending for regular troops, and calling 
for the militia of the neighbouring states, both which 
were supplied. Gen. Arnold and Col. Morgan joined 
him with a body of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln with the 
New-England uiilitia ; and he fell back to Saratoga and 
Stillwater. 

Battle of Bennington. 

While these preparations were making for a gen- 
eral engagement, the battle of Bennington occurred, 
which must now be introduced to preserve the order of 
time. Being in want of provisions. Gen, Burgoyne had 
despatched Lt. Col. Baum with his Hessians, to seize 
the public stores at Bennington. He was supported by 



and was succeeded by a warm and lasting attachment. It is 
probable, also, that the memory of his l.idy, who died in 
1776, at Kensincton Palace, during his absence in America, 
is embalmed by the affectionate regrets of the General, in 
that beautiful air in the first act of that opera : 

" Encompassed in an angel's frame, 
An angel's virtues lay : 
Too soon did heaven assert the claim, 
And call its own away. 

My Anna's worth, my Anna's charms, 

Must never more return ' 
Wliat row shall fill these widow'darms ' 

Ah, me ! mv Anna's urn !" 



BATTLE OF SARATOGA. 121 

Lt. Col. Brecliman, who stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. 
Gen. Stark with the New-Hampshire troops, joined by 
Col. Warner, attacked Col. Baam at the Wallonisack 
River, where they were encamped, July 16th, (1777,) 
and in two hours, forced their works, and completely de- 
feated them. Col. Warner began the attack on Col. 
Brechman, wounded him mortally, and took him pri- 
soner, and put his troops to flight. 

226 of the British troops were killed at the battle of 
Bennington, or rather the battle of Hoosac, as it was 
fought in that town. 700 soldiers were taken prison- 
ers, and 36 officers. 

To return to the principal scene of action. Gen. 
Gates now received the command of the American 
troops, which had been greatly re-enforced ; and march- 
ing them from the east side of Hudson River, opposite 
Half Moon, to Stillwater, on the west side, took a posi- 
tion on Bemis's Heights. 

BEMIS'S HEIGHTS. 

A ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, 
about a quarter of a mile from the river, and stretching 
off towards the north-west, oifered great advantages for 
the defence of the road. 

Gen. Gates's Camp 

was about half a mile from the road on the left, and his 
quarters were in a house which is yet standing, although 
very old. A bye-road leads to the place ; and the tra- 
veller, if he is able, will find himself repaid by examining 
the old entrenchments, and afterwards proceeding along 
the heights, which were occupied by the American 
troops. By making a considerable circuit by a road, in 
some places rough, he may ride over the encampment 
and the scenes of the two battles, and then come back 
to tlie river at Smith's little tavern, 3 miles above this 
place, or cross over to the Springs. The space between 
the river and the brow of the hill was crossed by a deep 



122 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

entrenchment defended with artillery, and abnost im- 
practicable. 

The American Lines, 

Three-quarters of a mile long, were furnished with a 
breast work of log's, (the hills being almost entirely a 
forest,) and the left terminated opposite the enemy's 
right. From the left almost to the centre, the ground 
is level, and was partly cleared, yet much encumbered 
with fallen and girdled trees. An opening, left of the 
centre, had a battery — thence a ravine ran to the right. 

Near the house once occupied by Gen. Gates, and 
close by a rail fence, are seen some remains of the 
entrenchments which defended the American camp. 
The view from many parts of this elevated ground is 
extensive and delightful, embracing the fertile shores 
and uplands of the Hudson, with many surrounding hills 
and distant mountains. 

It will be recollected, that the expedition under Sir 
Henry Clinton, who proceeded up Hudson River to King- 
ston, was intended to co-operate with Ge)i. Burgoyne, 
but failed to produce the effect. 

The British Lines 

stretched from a hill opposite the American left, in a 
straight line across the meadow to the Hudson River. 
The following account of their approach from Lake 
George is from Gen. Wilkinson's Memoirs. 

" General Burgoyne crossed the Hudson River the 
13th and 14th of September, and advanced with great 
circumspection on the 15th from Saratoga to Davocote, 
where he halted to repair bridges in his front. The 
16th was employed in this labour, and in reconnoitering : 
on the I7th he advanced a mile or two, resumed his 
march on the 18th, and Gen. Arnold was detached by 
Gen. Gates, with 1500 men, to harass him ; but after a 
light skirmish, he returned without loss or effecting any 
thing more than picking up a few stragglers ; and t)io 



BATTLE OF SARATOGA. 123 

enemy moved forward, and encamped in two lines, about 
two miles from Gen. Gates ; his left on the river, and 
his right extending at right angles to it, across the low 
grounds about six hundred yards, to a range of steep 
and lofty heights occupied by his elite, having a creek 
or guiley in his front, made by a rivulet which issued 
from a great ravine, formed by the hills, which ran in a 
direction nearly parallel to the river, until within half a 
mile of the American camp.'" 

The Northern or Champlain canal, and the coach road, 
now cross the ground occupied by the American right, 
and soon afterwards that occupied by the British lines. 
About half a mile south of the latter is the house of 
Major Buel, who served as a guide to the troops, and 
now conducts travellers to the field. He is old and 
poor, but strong and active. 

The Battle Ground 

is on an elevated plain, about two miles above General 
Gates's camp, and the same distance west from Smith's 
tavern. It may be taken in the way from the Springs, 
but it is better to go first to Smith's for a guide, and to 
take or prepare for refreshment. From Smith's to the 
battle ground, the road is quite romantic, along the 
south side of Cumininskill, with a steep bank on each 
side for part of the distance. Here Burgoyne marched 
up to extend his riglit, and turn the American left. The 
open ground at the end is the field of battle. 

The most severe fighting in the first battle, was at a 
little knoll, in a field on the south, passing two fences. 

Battle of Sept. 19th. 

In the morning, it was reported by Col. Colburn, who 
was watching the enemy, that they were beginning to 
ascend the hill towards the American left. Gen. Gates 
sent Col. Morgan to oppose them, and the firing began 
about noon. The action extended, and in three hours 
was general, and continued without interruption till 



124 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

dark. The American troops engaged amounted to 
3000; the British to 3500. The following account 
is from General Wilkinson. 

" This battle was perfectly accidental ; neither of the 
generals meditated an attack at the time, and but for 
Lieut. Col. Colburn's report, it would not have taken 
place ; Burgoyne's movement being merely to take 
ground on the heights in front of the great ravine, to 
give his several corps their proper places in line, to em- 
brace our front and cover his transport, stores, provi- 
sions, and baggage, in the rear of liis left ; and on our 
side, the defences of our camp being not half completed, 
and re-enforccments daily arriving, it was not General 
Gates's policy to court an action. The misconception 
of the adverse chiefs put them on the defensive, and 
confined them to the ground they casually occupied at 
the beginning of the action, and prevented a single ma- 
noeuvi-e, during one of the longest, warmest, and most 
obstinate battles fought in America. Gen. Gates be- 
lieved that his antagonist intended to attack him, and 
circumstances appeared to justify the like conclusion on 
the part of Burgoyne ; and as the thickness and depth of 
the intervening wood concealed the position and move- 
ments of either army from its adversary, sound caution 
obliged the respective commanders to guard every assaila- 
ble point ; thus the flower of the British army, the grena- 
diers and light infantry, one thousand five hundred 
strong, were posted on an eminence to cover its right, 
and stood by their arms, inactive spectators of the con- 
flict, until near sunset; while Gen. Gates was obliged 
to keep his rigiit wing on post, to prevent the enemy 
from forcing that flank, by the plain bordering on the 
river. Had either of the generals been properly ap- 
prized of the dispositions of his antagonist, a serious 
blow might have been struck on our left, or the enemy's 
right ; but although nothing is more common, it is as 
illiberal as it is unjust, to determino the merits of mili- 
tary operations by events exclusively. It was not 
without experience that the Romans erected temples 
to Fortune. Later times might afiord motives for 



BATTIiK OV SARATOGA. 125 

ediiices, in which Genius or Wisdom would have no 

votaries. 

" The theatre of action was such, that although the 
combatants changed ground a dozen times in the course 
of the day, the contest terminated on the spot where it 
began. This may be explained in a few words. The 
British line was formed on an eminence in a thin pine 
wood, having before it Freeman's farm, an oblong field, 
stretching from its centre towards its right, the ground 
in front sloping gently down to the verge of this field, 
which was bordered on the opposite side by a close wood. 
The sanguinary scene lay in the cleared ground, be- 
tween the eminence occupied by the enemy, and the 
wood just described. The fire of our marksmen from 
this wood was too deadly to be withstood by the enemy 
in line, and when they gave way and broke, our men 
rushing from their covert, pursued them to the emi- 
nence, where, having their flanks protected, they rallied, 
and charging in turn, drove us back into the wood, from 
whence a dreadful fire would again force them to fall 
back ; and in this manner did the battle fluctuate, like 
the waves of a stormy sea, with alternate advantage for 
four hours, without one moment's intermission. The 
British artillery fell into our possession at every charge, 
but we could neither turn the pieces upon the enemy, 
nor bring them off"; the wood prevented the last, and 
the want of a match the first, as the linstock was inva- 
riably carried off, and the rapidity of the transitions did 
not allow us time to provide one. The slaughter of 
this brigade of artillerists was remarkable, the captain 
and thirty-six men being killed or wounded out of forty- 
eight. It was truly a gallant conflict, in which death 
by familiarity lost his terrors, and certainly a drawn 
battle, as night alone terminated it ; the British army 
keeping its ground in rear of the field of action, and 
our corps, when they could no longer distinguish ob- 
jects, retiring to their own camp." 

TifE Interval between the two Battles. 

This time, from Sept. 19th till Oct 7th, was devoted 
to strengthening their fortifications, and by Gen. Gates 



126 ROUTE TO TIIK SPRINGS. 

to collecting also large re-enforcements of militia. Gen. 
Burgoyne is said to have planned an attack on the 
20th and 21st of September, but fortunately delayed un- 
til the ' Americans were in the best situation to oppose 
him. Attacks on the British picquets took place almost 
every night, and they were continually harassed. 

Battle of October 8. 

Gen Wilkinson gives the following description of thi.s 
battle. 

" The enemy were formed across a new cultivated 
field, their grenadiers with several held pieces on the 
left, bordering on a wood and a small ravine formed by 
the rivulet before alluded to ; their light uifantry on the 
right, covered by a worm fence at the foot of the hill 
before mentioned, thick!}'' covered with wood; their 
centre composed of British and German battalions. 
Col. Morgan, with his usual sagacity, proposed to jnake 
a circuit with his corps by our left, and under cover of 
the wood to gain the height on the right of the enemy, 
and from thence commence his attack, so soon as our 
fire should be opened against their left ; the plan was 
the best which could be devised, and no doubt contri- 
buted essentially to the prompt and decisive victory we 
gained." 

'■'- This proposition was approved by the General, and 
it was concerted that time should be allowed the Colo- 
nel to make the proposed circuit, and gain his station on 
the enemy's right before the attack should be made on 
their left : Poor's brigade was ordered for this service, 
and the attack was commenced in due season on the 
flank and front of the British grenadiers, by the New- 
Hampshire and New-York troops. True to his purpose, 
Morgan, at this critical moment, poured down like a tor- 
rent from the hill, and attacked the right of the enemy 
in front and flank. Dearborn, at the moment when the 
enemy's light infantry were attempting to change front, 
pressed forward with ardour and delivered a close fire ; • 
then leaped the fence, shouted, charged, and gallantly 



BATTLE OF SARATOGA. 12T 

forced them to retire in disorder ; yet headed by that in- 
trepid soldier the Earl of Balcarras, they were imme- 
diately rallied and re-formed behind a fence in rear of 
their first position ; but being now attacked with great 
audacity in front and flanks by superior numbers, resist- 
ance became vain, and the whole line, commanded by 
Burgoyne in person, gave way and made a precipitate 
and disorderly retreat to his camp, leaving two 12, and 
six 6 pounders on the field, with the loss of more than 
400 officers and men killed, wounded, and captured, 
and, among them, the flower of his officers, viz : — Bri- 
gadier General Frazer,'*" Major Ackland, commanding 
the grenadiers. Sir Francis Clark, his first aid-de-camp, 
Major Williams, commanding officer of the artillery, 
Captain Money, deputy quarter-master general, and 
many others. The ground which had been occupied by 
the British grenadiers presented a scene of complicated 
horror and exultation. In the square space of twelve 
or fifteen yards lay eighteen grenadiers in the agonies 
of death, and three officers propt up against stumps of 
trees, two of them mortally wounded, bleeding, and al- 
most speechless. 

" 1 found the courageous Colonel Cilley a-straddle on 
a brass twelve-pounder and exulting in the capture — 
whilst a surgeon, a man of great worth, who was dress- 
ing one of the officers, raising his blood-besmeared hands 
in a frenzy of patriotism, exclaimed, Wilkinson, I have 
dipped my hands in British blood. He received a sharp 
rebuke for his brutality, and with the troops I pursued 
the hard-pressed flying enemy, passing over killed and 
wounded until I heard one exclaim, ' protect me Sir, 
against this boy.' I'urning my eyes, it was my fortune 
to arrest the purpose of a lad thirteen or fourteen years 
old, in the act of taking aim at a wounded officer who 
lay in the angle of a worm fence. Inquiring his rank, 



* Genera! Frazer was shot in the meadow, near the fence 
by the road side, just south of the blacksmith's shop. The 
spot is marked by the third tree in a row of poplars. 



128 IlOCTi: TO TilE SPilliNGS. 

he answered, ' I had the honour to command the grciitr- 
diers;' of course, I knew him to be Major Ackland, wl\o 
had been brought from the field to this place, on the 
back of a captain Shrimpton of his own corps, under a 
heavy fire, and was here deposited, to save the lives of 
both. I dismounted, took him by the hand, and express- 
ed hopes that he was not badly wounded ; ' not badly,* 
replied this gallant officer and accomplished gentleman, 
' but very inconveniently, I am shot through both legs ; 
will you, Sir, have the goodness to have me conveyed 
to your camp f ' 1 directed my servant to alight, and we 
lifted Ackland into his seat, and ordered him to be con- 
ducted to head-quarters. I then proceeded to the scene 
of renewed action, which embraced Burgoyne's right 
flank defence, and extending to his left, crossed a hollow 
covered with wood, about 40 rods to the entrenchment 
of the light infantry. The roar of cannon and small 
arms at this juncture was subhme, between the enemy, 
behind their works, and our troops entirely exposed, or 
partially sheltered by trees, stumps, or hollows, at va- 
rious distances, not exceeding 120 yards. This right 
flank defence of the enemy, occupied by the German 
corps of Breyman, consisted of a breast-work of rails, 
piled horizontally between perpendicular pickets, driven 
into the earth, en potence to the rest of his line, and ex- 
tended to about 250 yards across an open field, and was 
covered on the rtght by a battery of two guns. The in- 
terval from the left to the British light infantry was com- 
mitted to the defence of the provincialists, who occupied 
a couple of log cabins. The Germans were encamped 
immediately behind the rail breast-work, and the ground 
in front of it declined in a very gentle slope for about 
120 yards, when it sunk abruptly ; our troops had formed 
;i line under this declivity, and covered breast high^ 
were warmly engaged with the Germans. From this 
position, about sunset, I perceived Brigadier Genera! 
Learned advancing towards the enemy with his brigade, 
in open column, I think with Colonel M. Jackson's regi- 
ment in front, as I saw Lieutenant Colonel Brooks, who 
commanded it, near the General, when I rode up to him. 



BATTLIi OF SARATOGA. 129 

On saluting this brave old soldier, he inquired, ' where 
can I put in with most advantage ?' I had particular- 
ly examined the ground between the left of the Ger- 
mans and the light infantry, occupied by the provincial- 
ists, from whence I had observed a slack fire ; 1 therefore 
reconunended to General Learned to incline to his right, 
and attack at that point; he did so with great gallantry ; 
the provincialists abandoned their position and fled ; the 
German flank was by this means uncovered ; they were 
assaulted vigorously, overturned in five minutes, and re- 
treated in disorder, leaving their gallant commander, 
Lieutenant-Colonel Breyman, dead on the field. By 
dislodging this corps, the whole British encampment was 
laid open to us; but the extreme darkness of the night, 
the fatigue of the men, and the disorder incident to un- 
disciplined troops after so desultory an action, put it out 
of our power to improve the advantage; and in the course 
of the night General Burgoyne broke up his camp, and 
retired to his original position, which he had fortified, 
behind the great ravine."' 

The British lost in killed, wounded, and prisoners, 
about 600; the Americans 319. The German officers 
said they had never before met so vigorous and terrible 
a fire. Several American oiiicers who walked over the 
field after midnight, found no enemy to interrupt them. 

General Frazer's Grave 

is on the hill a little west of Smith's, At his own re- 
quest, he was buried in the great redoubt, the remains 
of which are plainly visible. 

Oct. 8th, frequent attacks were made on Gen. Balcar- 
ras' corps, and the British expected a general action. 

General Burgoyne's Retreat 

commenced that night towards Lake George; but he 
was pursued and intercepted so promptly, that he was 
nbliged to stop and take a position at Schuylersville, 
oear which he surrendered ten days after the battle. 



130 ROUTE TO THE SPRINGS. 

The place will be particularly noticed beyond ; See page 
150. 

After perusing the foregoing descriptions of those two 
most important battles, the traveller will be greatly in- 
terested in learning that Smith's inn, to which he has 
before been directed, was at that period the 

Quarters of General Burooyne. 

The house now stands by the road side, but the place 
where it then was is a spot at the foot of the hill, and 
about 200 yards from the river. The cellar is still to be 
seen, in a field near an apple tree, a littie north of the 
road that crosses the canal. Willard's mountain is an 
eminence a few miles off, on the opposite side of the ri- 
ver. During the last battle, the Americans had a few 
cannon on the rising ground above the eastern shore, a 
quarter of a mile above Smith's, and thence proceeded 
the shot of which the Baroness Reidesel speaks in the 
succeeding note. Several ladies of distinction were its 
inmates at the time when the British troops were here, 
being the wives of some of its principal officers. Among 
these were the Baroness Reidesel,* with her children, 



Extract of a letter from the Baroness^ afterwards publish- 
ed in Germany, and lately in this country. 
* " But severe trials awaited us, and on tiie 7ih oi'October, 
our misfortunes began. 1 was at breakfast with my husband, 
and heard that something was intended. On the same day I 
expected Generiis Burgoyne, Phillips and Frazer to dine with 
us. I saw a great movement amung the troops ; my husband 
told me, it was merely a reconnoiiance, which gave me no 
concern as it often happened. 1 walked out of the house and 
met several Indians in their war dresses, with guns in their 
hands. When I asked them where they were going, they 
cried out War ! War! (meaning they were g'>ing to battle.) 
This filled me with apprehension, and I scarceSy got home be- 
fore I heard reports of cannon and musketry, which grew 
louder by degrees, till at last the noise became excessive. 
About 4 o'clock in the afternoon instead of the quests whom 



BATTLE OF SARATOGA. 131 

wife of General Reidesel, and Lady Harriet Ackland, 
wife of Major Ackland, commander of the British Grena- 
diers. The former published an account of what she 
saw during- this trying and dangerous contest, after her 



I expected, General Frazer was brought on a litter mortally 
wounded. The table which was already set, was instantly 
removed, and a bed placed in its stead for the wounded Ge- 
neral. I sat trembling in a corner ; the noise grew louder 
and the alarm increased ; the thought that my husband might 
perhaps be brougat in, wounded in the same way, was terri- 
ble to me, and distressed me exceedingly. Gen. Frazer said 
to the surgeon, " tell me if my wnvnd is mortal, do not Jiatter 
7ne." The bail had passed through his body, and unhappily 
for the General, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by 
which the stomach was distended, and the ball, as the surgeon 
said, had pas^-ed through it I heard him often exciaim_ with 
a sigh, "Oh fatal ambition ' Poor General Burgoyne ' Oh my 
poor wife I " He was asked if he had any request to make, 
to which he replied, that "If General Burgoyne would per- 
mit it, he should like to be buried at six o'clock in the even- 
ing on the top of a mountain, in a redoubt w'uich had been 
built there." 1 did not kiunv which way to turn, all the other 
rooms were full of sick. Towards evenij'g I sav/ my husband 
coming, then 1 forgot all my sorrov.-s and thanked God that he 
was spared to me. He ate in great haste v/ith me and his aid- 
de-camp behind the house. We had been told that we had 
the advantage of the enemy, bu* the sorrowful faces I beheld 
told a different tale, and before my husband went away, he 
took me one side, and said every thing was going very bad, 
that I must keep myself in readiness to leave the place, but 
not to mention it to any one. I made the pretence that I 
would move the next moniing into my new house, and had 
every thing jiacked up ready. 

" Lady H. Ackland had a tent not far from our house; in 
this she slept, and the rest of the day she was in the cu.mp. 
All of a sudden a man came to tell her that her husband was 
mortally wounded and taken prisoner: on hearing this she be- 
came, very miserable, we comforted her by t. Ilfng her, that 
the wound was only slight, and at the same time advised her 
to go over to her husband, to do which she would certainly 
obtain permission, and then she could attend him herself; 
she was a charming woman and very fond of him. I spent 
n2 



13i 



TilE SPRirVGS. 



return to Europe. The house was converted into an 
hospital during the second battle, and Gen. Frazer died 
on the 8th of October in what is now the bar room. His 
grave is on the hill. 



much of the night in comforting her, and then went again to 
my children whom I hnd p it to bed. I could not go to sleep, 
as I had General Frazer and all the other wounded gentlemen 
in my room, and I was sadly afraid my children would awake, 
and by their crying disturb the dying man in his last moinents, 
who often addressed me and apolopized ^^ for the trouble he 
gave mp." About 3 o'clock in the mortiriji I was toi.i he 
could not hold out much longer ; I lod desired to be informed 
of the oear approach of this sad crisij, and I then wrapped up 
my children in their clothes, and went with them into the 
room helow. About 8 o'clock in the mori-.ing he died. After 
he was laid out and his corpse wrapped up in a sheet, wf. came 
again into the room, and had this sorrowful sight before us 
the whole day, and to add to this melancholy scene, almost 
every moment some officer of my acquaintance was brought 
in wounded. The cannonade commenced again ; a retreat was 
spoken of, but not the smallest motion was made towards it. 
About 4 o'clock in the afternoon I saw the house whicii had 
just been built for me in flames, and the enemy was now not 
far off. We knew that General Burgoyne would not refuse 
the last request of General Frazer, thovgh by his acceding to 
it, an unnecessary delay was occasioned, by which the incon- 
venience of the army was much increased. At 6 o'clock the 
corpse was brought out, and we saw all the Generals attend 
it to the mountain ; the chaplain, Mr. Brundell, performed the 
funeral service, rendered unusually solemn and awful, from 
its being accompanied by constant peals from the enemy's ar- 
tillery. Many cannon balls flew close by me, but I had ray 
eyes directed towards the mountain, where my husband was 
standing, amidst the fire of the enemy, and of course, I could 
not think of my own danger. General* "ates afterwards said, 
that if he had known it had been a funeral he would not have 
permitted it io be fired on. Lady Harriet Ackland went to 
the American camp after the action, to take care of her hus- 
band before the surrender, and the Baroness Reidesel after- 
wards. They were both received with the greatest kindness 
and delicacy. 



13;: 



BALLSTON SPRINGS. 

This village is situated in a little valley surrounded by 
hills, which have the aspect of having once been the bed 
of a small lake. The high ground enclosing it, gives an 
air of seclusion to the place, at the same time that it fur- 
nishes a variety of pleasant scenery. The Kayderosse- 
ros brook flows through the valley, in some places over- 
hung by the groves of forest trees that cover the hills. 

The Sans Souci Hotel is the principal house in the 
place, and is at least equal in plan and in arrangement 
to any similar establishment in the country. Aldridge's 
is a highly respectable house, in a very pleasant situa- 
tion. Mrs. McMasters', the Village Hotel, &;c. are in 
the neighbourhood. 

Sans Souci 

IS a building of great size, occupying the corner where 
the village street meets the road to Saratoga. It has a 
£ne piazza opening upon the former, and presents a front 
<ff 156 feet long with a wing extending back from each 
end 150 feet, all of them three stories high, and contain- 
ing in all lodging for nearly 150 persons. The dining 
loom can easily accommodate that number, and the pub- 
ic parlour is large, airy and pleasant, extending to the 
kdies' private parlour. There is a beautiful meadow in 
the rear of the house which is to be made free of some 
encumbrances, and to be planted with trees, laid out in 
Valks, fee. for the convenience of visiters. 

Scarcely any thing in this country can exceed the 
scene of gaiety which this house presents in the visiting 
season. When crowded with people. Sans Souci is 
usually the scene of several balls in the week, to say no- 
thing of the fishing parties, riding parties, &;c. &:c. which 
fill up the day. The variety of scenery in the neighbour- 
hood is sufficient to attract many of those who resort to 
this place of health and pleasure ; and walking and ri- 
ding will be found much more agreeable here than at 



134 THE SPRIN'GS. 

Saratoga. Some of the particular routes and objects 
will be designated hereafter. 

Mb. Aldridge's House 

was the first respectable one ever opened in this place 
for the accommodation of visiters. Its size being suffi- 
cient only for a more limited number of persons, a visi- 
ter of quiet habits or in* ill health, will here find himself 
retired from the noise and bustle which enter so largely 
into the amusements of the more gay and robust. The 
house has a pleasant garden, with a long flight of steps 
leading to a commanding elevation wliicli overlooks the 
village below. 

The Washington Spring. 

A new and remarkable chalybeate Spring was ol- 
tained, in 1827, by boring 237 feet deep, througii 
blue slate rock, near the Old Spring. It has a tube sunli 
the whole distance, made partly of iron and partly of 
tin, and affords a most delightful sparkling water, which 
boils over the top. In August of that year, seven! 
months after it was opened, the water was forced into 
the air to the height of 12 or 14 feet, without any pe-- 
ceptible cause, in a constant jet, for about half an hour. 
The water then disappeared, and was afterwards dis- 
covered slowly rising till it again overflowed. It wis 
for a time flat and turbid ; but soon recovered all its 
clearness, gaseous pungency and sparkhng. This spring 
affords some of the finest chalybeate water in the United 
States. 

The Lafayette Springs 

which yields a fine and sparkling chalybeate water, was 
discovered early in the summer of 1825. It is supposed 
by many to be in fact identical with the " Old Spring," 
which is soon to be spoken of, being distant from it only 
about thirty feet. It is very cold and highly charged 



BALLSTOX. 135 

with oxyde of iron and carbonic acid gas, which have 
given it a high reputation. 

The Old Spring, 

which is in the middle of the street opposite Aldridge's, 
was the first discovered in all this part of the country. 
It is said that the inhabitants were induced to trust to 
its peculiar virtues by the example of the deer of the 
forest, which had resorted to it in such numbers as to 
form beaten paths from every direction to the spot. In 
1792 there was not a house within two or three miles of 
this spot. 

The Old Sprmg has lost much of its original excel- 
lence, which appears to be in a good degree transferred 
to the ne w ones. 

The Saline, or United States Spring 

is near the bathing house connected with the Sans 
Souci. It was discovered four or five years since, and 
contains a large quantity of oxyde of iron, together 
with glauber and other salts, so that it is at once a 
strong saline, and chalybeate water. The iron is in such 
quanties as to be perceptible to the taste. 

The New Spring 

is near the Sans Souci hotel. It was obtained in 1827 
by boring to a depth of about 300 feet, and is full of 
gas, very sparkling and considered both saline and 
chalybeate. 

The neighbouring country was almost a perfect wil- 
derness at the close of the revolutionary war; for the 
natural military route between Canada and the United 
States lay through it, and the Five Nations of Indians 
were so near on the western side, and were so frequent- 
ly passing over it on their war parties, that few white 



136 THE SPRINGS. 

men were willing to encounter the dangers and risks to 
which such a residence must necessarily be exposed. 

For some years the only place where visiters could 
find shelter here, was in a log house, near the Old 
Spring, which was for some time the only object of no- 
tice. The springs near the Sans Souci were subse- 
quently discovered, and have enjoyed their portion 
of celebrity. In 1817 four sprmgs of different qualities 
were found near the great manufactory built by Mr. 
Low. Their history is worthy of attention, as it shows 
the singular changes which sometimes take place in this 
mysterious soil, where springs occasionally appear, 
change places and disappear, without any apparent 
cause. Some surprising power is constantly at work 
somewliere beneath the surface, which the wisest stu- 
dents of nature are unable to explain or to comprehend. 
The branch of the Kayderosseros brook which flows 
through the Spa Village, was raised to an unusual 
height by a flood in the summer of 1817, and threw 
its current into a new channel further towards the east 
than its former one. The old bed was thvxs left dry ; 
and four springs were found rising side by side, all of 
them within a space of about twenty feet square, and 
all of qualities entirely different. One resembled in 
some degree the Old Spring, but contained a surplus of 
carbonic acid gas and sparkled like champaign ; the 
next contained much glauber salte;, and was somewiiat 
like the Congress Spring at Saratoga ; the third was 
brine, like sea water ; and the fourth perfectly fresh. 
A platform was raised that covered them all and wood- 
en tubes were sunk into the two first, which were only 
two or three feet apart ; and for three or four seasons 
they attracted all visiters, so much so that the Old 
Spring was deserted. The first spring was peculiarly 
fine, and the favourite of all ; but it at length began to 
lose its flavour, gas, and virtue ; and the four springs 
now flow off together in a stream of almost pure 
water. 



13T 



Qualities of the Ballston Waters. 

New-Haven, April 27, 1824. 
Dear Sir, 
You request my opinion of the mineral waters at 
Ballston Spa. They are in my view very valuable, 
and I can discern no serious reason why public opinion 
should be less favourable to them now than formerly. 
1 became acquainted with the Old Spring, near Mr. Al- 
dridge's, in consequence of using its waters uninterrupted- 
ly at the fountain head, for a month, in the Autumn of 
1797 ; and a residence of the same length of time, at 
Ballston Spa, during the last summer, gave me an op- 
portunity of renewing my acquaintance with the Old 
Spring, and of becoming familiar also with those more 
recently discovered fountains, which have been opened 
and brought into use. The Old Spring appears, sub- 
stantially, as it did in 1797, and is, I suppose, surpassed 
by no mmeral fountain in the world as a brisk, copious, 
slightly saline, and strong chalybeate. The principal 
spring'^ under the bath house, while it is also a brisk 
chalybeate, is besides in a high degree saline, and is 
probably unrivalled as a natural combination of this 
class. Its cathartic properties are strong, and its tonic 
powers equally so. There is no spring, either at Balls- 
ton Spa or Saratoga Springs, which 1 should prefer to 
this. I speak of my own experience — for some persons, 
a brisk cathartic water, scarcely chalybeate at all, like 
the Congress Spring, may be preferable. The Congress 
Spring is also, so far as I am informed, without a rival, 
in its class — but it is scarcely proper to call it a chaly- 
beate, as it is so only in a slight degree. There is no 



* Mr. Silliman has analyzed the water of this spring, which 
is now called the United States, and found half a gallon of it 
to contain 270 grains of salt; iron, lime, and magnesia, 100. 
It is at once highly saline and chalybeate, wliich is very re- 
markable. 



138 THE SPaiNGS. 

reason v/hy the establishments at Saratoga Springs and 
a.t Ballston Spa should regard each other with an un- 
friendly feeling. The accommodations of both are too 
good to need praise from me, and the bounty of the 
Creator has poured forth these fountains of health, in 
the great valley, (for I regard the springs of Ballston 
Spa and Saratoga as parts of one great system) with a 
profuse benevolence, unknown in any other country. 
Nothing can exceed the variety, copiousness, and ex- 
cellence of the springs at Saratoga — but those of Balls- 
ton Spa are in no respect except that of number and 
variety inferior to them, and I trust the day is not dis- 
tant, when a truly liberal feelmg will, m both villages, 
lead to mutual commendation, and an amicable rivalry, 
in efforts to please and to accommodate their guests ; 
and the salutary eifect will then, I am persuaded, soon 
be visible, in the increased number of visiters, from eve- 
ry part of this great continent ; a number more than 
suificient to fill both villages, and fully to reward the 
spirited and liberal proprietors of their respective pub- 
lic establishments. 

With the best wishes for the prosperity of both places. 
I remain 

Your Obt. Servant, 

B. Silliman. 

Low'^s Manufactory is four stories high, about 170 
feet long, and 40 feet wide, with a large room in each 
of the three upper stories about 115 feet long. It is 
not used. 

There is a Reading Room and Circulating Library 
kept at the store of Mr. Comstock, and a book is also 
to be seen in which the names of visiters arrivmg at the 
principal houses are daily entered, for the information 
of others. 

The Lover''s Leap is a precipice of 60 or 70 feet, 
which overhangs the Kayderosseros, and overlooks a 
romantic and secluded little valley, at the distance of 
about half a mile from the sprmgs. The road leads up 
the hill beyond Aldridge's, and through a dark pine 



GALLOWAY. 139 

grov^e. A half trodden path turns off at the right and 
conducts to the precipice, which is a pleasant retreat 
in the heat of the day, affording a fine shade and fre- 
quently a pleasant breeze, as well as the view of a wild 
scene below, to which a steep descent conducts on the 
left hand. 

Ballston Lake 

is a pretty little sheet of water about 4 miles distant; but 
as Saratoga Lake is much larger, more accessible and 
more beautiful, and is supplied with accommodations for 
fishing parties, it is more worthy of attention; we refer the 
stranger to the description of it on page 145. The dis- 
tance is 4i miles, and 5^ from Saratoga Springs. It is only 
six miles from Ballston Spa to the south end, where is the 
finest view of it, on the way to the battle ground. The 
road is rather stony and rough, but perfectly safe, and has 
some plea>!ant spots, and several extensive views. The 
Green Mountains in Vermont present a very noble ap- 
pearance, and several ridges of hills between, afterwards 
succeeded by the swelling and fertile shores of the Hud- 
son, form a various and delightful landscape. 

Mr. Simpson''s Farm in Galloway^ is 11 miles west 
from Ballston Springs. 

He IS an excellent farmer and his house a very good 
inn. Take the road up the sand hill by Aldridge's, pass- 
ing near the Lover's Leap, and following the Johnstown 
road. His house is on a high ridge of land ; the farm 
contains 800 acres, 360 of which are cultivated, princi- 
pally for grain and grass. He raises 40 or 50 bushels of 
wheat to an acre by late ploughing, about 3 inches deep. 
He soaks his seed wheat in brine and rolls it in lime, to 
preserve it from insects. Other seeds he rolls in plas- 
ter. He has raised 700 bushels of potatoes to an acre. 
His corn is planted two feet apart one way, and two and 
a half the other. 

His fences are of stone and wood — a low stone wall, 
with timber in it. to secure the parts above ground. A 
fence of two rails is thus made above ; the rails being 



140 THE SPRINGS. 

of plank, about four inches wide. Of this kind of fence, 
he has on his farm what would measure 13 miles. 

The place enjoys so fine and healthy a situation, and 
the inn is so well kept, being one of the best in this 
part of the country, that it is the resort of many visi- 
ters from different quarters, who frequently spend days 
or weeks there. The charges are more moderate than 
at the Springs. 

The view is commanding and the air fine. From an 
eminence west of the house, no less than 13 counties 
may be discovered. The church is half a mile distant, 
and the road from Ballston pretty good. 

Remarks on the Routes. 

At the Springs many a traveller has to arrange his fu- 
ture journeys, either for business or pleasure ; and as 
Ballston and Saratoga are pro-emineully places of lei- 
sure, some general hints concerning the different routes 
will not be misplaced. 

JVorth, 

The roads to Lake George^ Lake Champlain, Mon- 
treal, &;c. belonging more properly to Saratoga, will be 
given under that head. 

East. 

The traveller is referred to the same place and Alba- 
ny for the roads leading into New-England. 

South. 

Three or four steam boats leave Albany for New- York 
every day, and as many arrive from that city. Several 
others also ply every week between New-York and 
Troy. They touch at numerous points on the river, so 
that passengers can land where they please. The news- 
papers will furnish all necessary information concerning 



£JAKATOGA. 141 

their periods of departure and return ; and coaches from 
the Springs so regulate their time as to accommodate the 
traveller. The larger boats are generally preferred on 
account of the fine air and prospect enjoyed from their 
upper decks ; but they are sometimes more crowded than 
the small ones, and when the water in the river is low, 
some of them can come up no higher than the Overslaw, 
4 miles below Albany, to which place passengers are ta- 
ken down m the smaller steam boats. 

There are several roads to Albany : by Waterford, and 
Troy, or Gibbonsville, and by Schenectady. 

From Waterford you may take either side of the river. 
On the west side are the Cohoes Falls, the remarkable 
" nine locks'" on the Erie Canal, the junction of the two 
Canals, and route of the former quite to Albany. On 
the east side the road passes over a bridge to Lansing- 
burg, through Troy, and re-crosses by a good and safe 
ferry. {See Index.) 

The second road, which goes through Schenectady, is 
rather circuitous, but will give the stranger an opportu- 
nity of travelling 27 miles on the Erie Canal, along the 
course of the Mohawk. 

West. 

The grand western route, through Utica, and leading 
to Niagara and Lake Erie, has been already traced out 
with sufficient particularity for the use of most travel- 
lers; and to that those readers are referred, who intend 
to pursue that course after leaving the Springs. The 
nearest point on this route is Schenectady, whence the 
traveller may proceed up the Mohawk, either by the 
stage road, or in the canal boats. See page 45. 

The direct road to Schenectady, however, is sandy, 
and quite uninteresting. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS 

are 7 miles from Ballston Springs, and a coach gene- 
rally passes between these two places every day ; be- 



142 THE SPRINGy. 

side a number of other carriages on their way from 
Albany, &;c. What is called the regular price for these 
7 miles is 50 cents for a seat. The old road is level and 
sandy, and if the weather be dry the traveller will pro- 
bably be incommoded with dust, unless he rides in the 
morning or evening when the ground is moist with the 
dew. The new road passes over higher ground, and is 
pleasanter and harder, although somewhat longer. You 
may pass out by the court house, east, or turn to the 
right just below the Sans Souci. You enjoy some fine 
views of the distant hills and mountains ; and the soil 
and crops are generally much better than on the old road. 

Saratoga is quite concealed until you are within a 
short distance, and then the clusters of frail board build- 
ings which spring up among the stumps of trees lately 
felled in the skirts of the pine forest, show what an un- 
natural surplus of population the place contains during 
the visiting season, which is principally in July and Au- 
gust. It may not be unseasonable to mention here the 
principal houses in the order in which they are supposed 
to stand on the list of gentility : the Congress Hall |10 
per week, United States Hotel, do. the Pavilion do. 
and Union Hall |8. 

On reaching the brow of a hill which descends into 
the village, the street lies in full view, with all the prin- 
cipal houses. On the right is Congress Hall three stories 
high with a row of 17 columns, rising from the ground 
to the eaves ; opposite is Union Hall with a row of 10 
similar columns ; over which are seen the brick wails of 
the United States Hotel ; and still beyond, and on the 
other side, the roof of the Pavilion. From this view the 
village is represented in the accompanying print, which 
was taken on the spot. 

On reaching the foot of the hill, the Congress Spring, 
the great attraction of the place, is seen at a short dis- 
tance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng of 
people. 

Congress Hall 

has generally enjoyed the highest favour among the most 



SARATOGA. 143 

fashionable visiters at Saratoga, on account of its fine 
and imposing appearance, its contiguity to the Spring, 
the number and size of its apartments, and the style in 
whicli it is furnished and kept. It is 196 feet long on 
the street, with two wings of 60 feet running back, and 
contains lodging for 150. The first floor in front is divi- 
ded in the following manner : a dining room in the mid- 
dle, capable of containing tables for all the house can ac- 
commodate ; next ihe dancing hall, about 80 feet long, 
and south the ladies' private parlour. The price of board 
is ^10 per week. 

The United States Hall 

is a fine building of brick, three stories high, v/ith a colo- 
nade rising only to the second story. This house is ex- 
cellently well kept, and is more substantially built than 
any of the rest, which are of a light construction, fit only 
for the mildest weather ; but it is deficient in public 
rooms, in which particular Congress Hall so much ex- 
cels. It is also raised so high from the street as not to 
be convenient of access, although some prefer it on that 
very account. 

The Pavilion. 

This is a very good house for one of its size, and will 
be found free from much of the bustle of the larger ones, 
while it is the resort of company no less respectable and 
genteel. Those who wish to drink often of the Flat Rock 
water will prefer it, as that Spring is only a few steps 
from it in the rear. There is a fine bathing house con- 
nected with it, and a shady little wood not far beyond by 
the road side, on the way to the Round Rock Spring. 

Union Hall 

is the resort of those who wish to have the most conve- 
nient access to the waters of the Congress Spring, or to 
participate more moderately in the amusements of the 

n2 



144 THE SPRING.-. 

place, and to avoid the inconveniences of gaiety and 
mirth, produced by the continued round of balls and dan- 
ces in the other principal houses. 

The Congress Springs 

which, as was before remarked, is the great source from 
which this place derives its celebrity and its show of 
wealth and importance, was discovered by Mr. Futnam. 
He built the first house near it for the accommodation of 
invalids, which was subsequently enlarged to the pre- 
sent Union Hall, now kept by his son. The R,ound Rock 
Spring, of which more particular notice will soon be ta- 
ken, was known before, having been pointed out to Sir 
William Johnson by an Indian, while the country was 
yet a wilderness. The Congress Spring was long con- 
cealed by the neighbouring brook which formerly passed 
over it ; but its valuable qualities being discovered, it has 
attracted universal attention, and the benefits of its wa- 
ters are annually dispensed to thousands. 

Mr. Siiliman gives the following analysis : half a gal- 
Jon contains 320 grains of salt, 26 lime and magnesia, 
with a slight trace of iron. 

The Flat Rock Spring 

is near the upper end of the street, and in the rear of tiie 
Pavilion. In composition and qualities it bears a resem- 
blance to the Lafayette Spring at Ballston^ but is far in- 
ferior. It is a chalybeate water, and the best of the kind 
in the place. It is situated on the margin of the little 
valley in which all the springs are found, and the Pavi- 
lion will prove a pleasant house to invalids and others 
who wish to drink of it frequently. 

The Round Rock Spring. 

This Spring is worthy of a visit merely as a natural 
curiosity : the water, although for a time much celebra- 
ted, and indeed the only attraction of which Saratoga 



SAKATOGA. 145 

could boast, having gone into disrepute, since the disco- 
very of the sources already mentioned. It is a feeble cha- 
lybeate with little taste and little effect. The water ri- 
ses in a small rock of calcareous tufa, of a conical form, 
with a circular hole in the middle, about five inches in di- 
ameter. The rock is about five feet through at the base, 
and has evidently been produced by the layers of lime 
deposited by the water. Many of the rocks in the neigh- 
bourhood contain a large quantity of lime, where the car- 
bonic acid of the water probably obtains the supply which 
it afterwards deposites here. The gradual accretion 
which is thus constantly going on is very apparent even 
to a hasty observer. That part of the rock which is most 
exposed to the dripping of water taken out in cups 
through the hole in the top, is always smooth and even, 
while other parts are rough and broken. Fractures made 
by visiters are sometimes found half obliterated by a re- 
cent coat of calcareous matter formed in this manner. 
A horizontal rock, apparently of similar formation, ex- 
tends for a considerable distance under the surface of the 
ground ; and indeed it might be supposed to reach to 
some of the springs which rise in ditferent places along 
the valley above. 

It is said that the Round Rock was shown to Sir 
William Johnson by an Indian, before which time it was 
unknown to white men. The water, according to com- 
mon report, forniGrly flowed overthe top, but hasfor many 
years found its way below, through a crevice produced 
by a large forest tree which fell and cracked the rock. 

Saratoga Lake. 

An excursion to this beautiful piece of water, is one of 
the most agreeable that can be made in any direction. It 
is 5i miles distant, in a south-easterly direction, and is 
frequently visited by parties from Ballston, as well as 
Saratoga Springs, as a good house has been lately erect- 
ed on the shore, and furnished with every accommoda- 
tion, by Mr. Riley. Sailing and fishing on the lake form 
the amusements of the excursion. 



I4t» THE SPRINGS. 

The first part of the way is by the eastern road to Bails- 
ton Spa ; and after turning to the left and riding to with- 
in half a mile of the lake, a fine view opens from the top 
of a hill. The eye embraces a part of this fine sheet of 
water, with its sloping and verdant shores, generally di- 
vided by square fields ; with a distant view of the Green 
Mountains. 

At a considerable distance from the shore, is erected a 
stage, 16 by 14 feet, a little raised above the water, and 
capable of containing thirty people. The lake is there 
about seven feet deep, and the spot is excellent for fish- 
ing. Parties of ladies and gentlemen are taken oft" in 
boats, and in hot weather an awning is spread to shade 
them from the sun. 

On the opposite side of the lake is a remarkable rocky 
and woody hill, of a rounded form, which is connected 
with the shore only by a narrow neck. The deepest wa- 
ter is two miles below, at Drowned Meadow Cove, where 
it is 150 or 170 feet to the bottom. The road running- 
north from Riley's is pleasant, but reaches only half a 
mile. 

The lake extends 7 miles in length, and is 2 in breadth. 
The shores are bold and varied, gently descending with 
a smooth slope to the margin, or rising in rugged crags 
from the water's edge ; sometimes softened and beauti- 
fied by the hand of cultivation, and sometimes aban- 
doned to all tiieir native wildness. 

If the wind and weather are favourable, the visiter 
may expect good sport in fishing; and if not, he may 
calculate on a dinner table well supplied by other and 
iuore fortunate adventurers. There are also many 
kinds of wild fowl, birds. Sic. in the neighbourhood, so 
that a sportsman may find great amusement here. 

There is a house at the north end of the lake, 4 miles 
from Saratoga Springs, kept by Mr, Green, near the 
ferry, where also visiters are accommodated. 

Trout Fishing. 

Two miles eastward from the Springs, is a Trout 



SAKAT()<iA. 14 i 

Pond, to which sportsmen frequently resort. Mr. Bar- 
hyte^ however, who keeps the house, expects the fish to 
be eaten at his table. 

The remarks which have been made on the gaiety of 
the two great watering places, are intended to apply 
only when they are the fashionable resorts of those 
throngs of visiters which every season appear at one 
or both of them. The changes in fashion, which lead 
ail the world sometimes to prefer one and sometimes 
the other, and sometimes to divide their visits equally 
between them both, are of so unaccountable a nature,that 
it is impossible for any one to divine them, or with any 
confidence to hazard a conjecture far into futurity. 

Eight or ten years ago, Ballston was the general 
rendezvous ; but Saratoga soon afterwards drained it 
of its company, and maintained its superiority in this 
particular until near the close of the season of 1824, 
when Sans Souci was filled to an overflow, and most 
of the other houses at Ballston were crowded with vis- 
iters. In 1825, the number of visiters was greater than 
it had been for eight years, and up to 1827, things were 
improving at Ballston, so that it had been sometimes 
decidedly the more fashionable resort. If therefore ihe 
remarks heretofore made, concerning the liveliness and 
gaiety of either of those places, should at any tiane 
appear inapplicable, it may be remembered that they 
have been often true of both, and doubtless will be so 



The Reaping Rooji, 

Here, as well as at Ballston, a Reading Room is kept, 
where strangers will find newspapers from dilTerent parts 
of the country, and where they will be able to supply 
themiielves with books of different descriptions, to b»':- 
guile their leisure hours. The Reading Room is at the 
Book Store, a little beyond the United States Hotel. 

A Record will also be found at the same place, into 
which the arrivals and departures of visiters are copied, 
once a day, from the books of the four principal houses 



;14U THE SPRINGS. 

If any one expects to meet a friend here, or wishes to 
learn whether he has already left Saratoga, he has only 
to refer to this list and look for his name. 

THE BATTLE GROUND. 

The defeat of General Burgoyne in the year 1777, 
took place a few miles east from the Springs. The two 
battles which he fought with the American army under 
General Gates, are commonly blended into one, and 
called the Battle of Saratoga. To speak strictly, how- 
ever, they should bear the name of Bemis's Heights^ 
where they actually took place ; though the name of Sa- 
ratoga bears so fine a sound, that there seems on the 
whole little to be gained by the change. 

The field of battle having been already described, as 
well as the bloodshed and the victories of those mipor- 
tant days, the visiter is referred to page 118 and onwards, 
for an account which will aid him in tracing out the 
various positions and sites with distinctness and interest. 
It is proper to remark, however, that from Saratoga the 
visiter approaches the field in a different direction from 
that assumed by the description above alluded to ; and 
that Smith's Inn, where he stops, is the identical build- 
ing in which Gen, Burgoyne had his quarters, and which 
was then known as " Swords' House.'" It was a little 
in the rear of the British lines, as described in Burgoyne's 
history of his campaign, and has suffered no material al- 
teration since, except by a removal from its original si- 
tuation. 

After satisfying himself with an examination of this in- 
teresting vicinity, referring, as above recommended, to the 
description given some pages back, the traveller, if going 
northward, will pass over the route by which Gen. Bur- 
goyne approached, and subsequently retreated, imme- 
diately after the battle of October 7th. 

SCHUYLERSVILLE, 12 m.from Saratoga, 

seven miles from the battle ground. A stage coach leaves 



SURRENDER OP GEN. BURGOYNE. \VJ 

fejaratoga Springs three mornings in the week, which 
passes through this place. At this village is the place 
where Gen. Burgoyne was forced to stop on his retreat, 
on account of the Hood in Fish Creek, the outlet of Sa- 
ratoga Lake ; and at Fort Hardy, which then stood on 
its banks, Jie surrendered to Gen. Gates on the 17th Oc- 
tober. The traces of his camp are still very discernible, 
in embankments, ditches, 8zc. and the house in which he 
had his head-quarters, stood till within a few years. 

The British Camp, 

one mile from the Fishkill, and opposite the Batenkill 
Creek. From the hill where the British encampment 
was formed, a fine and extensive view may be had, upon 
the route towards Bemis's Heights. General Burgoyne 
occupied the night of October 8th, and the following day, 
in getting to this place, although it is but 7 miles, on ac- 
count of the miserable state of the roads. Here he was 
detained for several days by the swelling of the waters 
of the creek ; and when he crossed the stream, he left his 
hospital, with 300 sick and wounded, who were treated 
by Gen. Gates with every attention. 

Here the further retreat was cut off; for the Ameri- 
cans were found in possession of the fords of the Hud- 
son. Gen. Burgoyne therefore took his last position ; 
and Gen. Gates formed his camp behind, while Morgan 
took post on the west and north of the British, and Gen. 
Fellows, with 3000 men, was stationed on the opposite 
side of the river. American troops were also in Fort 
Edward, and on the high ground towards Lake George. 

The Surrender. 

While remaining in this situation, the British were 
continually exposed to the fire of their enemies, as well 
as reduced by want of provision. Six days passed thus; 
when on the 17th of October, 1777, a convention was 
signed, and the army being marched to the meadow near 
Old Fort Hardy, piled their arms and surrendered pri- 



soners ofw.ir, to llic number of 5752 effective, witli 528 
sick and wounded. TJiis meadow is in sight from the inn. 

The House of Gen. Schuyler 

stood on the spot now occupied by that of his grand-son. 
It was burnt by Burgoyne on his retreat; notwithstand- 
ing which, the British officers were afterwards received 
at his house in Albany, and treated with great kindness. 

Remarks on the Routes. 

iXoiiTH. Three great routes from the Springs to- 
wards the north may be particularized, although they 
run almost side by side, and all unite on arriving at Lake 
Champlain. 1st, The fashionable route, to Caldwell on 
Lake George. 2d, The Northern, or Champlain Canal. 
3d, The road to Whitehall, the direct route on the way 
to Montreal.* 

The ^/irsf of these is usually travelled by strangers of 
taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine scene- 
iy of Lake George, and the battle grounds in its vicini- 
ty ; and passes near several other spots of high interest 
for their historical associations. It is with a particular 
view to this route, that the places soon to be mentioned 
ivill be arranged and described. Even if a journey to 
Montreal is intended, it can hardly be too urgently press- 
ed upon the stranger to devote a leisure day or two to 
Lake George on his way, as he will find himseii most 
amply rewarded, and can join the great route with facili- 
ty at Ticonderoga. 

The second route^ by the Northern Canal, may be met 
iiear the battle ground at Bemis's Heights ; but it has 
hitherto offered in this part no boat expressly for passen- 
gers, although there has sometimes been one between 
Fort Edward and Whitehall, to meet the Champlain 

* There also are two stage routes to Montreal, one on eacli 
side of Lake Champlain. In 1823 the mail will go to Mon- 
tteal dailv. 



steam boat. In fine weather, liowover, oentlcmen may- 
travel very pleasantly tor a few mile« in tJie common 
freight boats. 

Tlie third route is tlic road to Whitehall, which is fur- 
nished with public carriages from the Springs during the 
warm season, and like the canal passes near some of 
the interesting places to be mentioned hereafter. From 
Whitehall the traveller may proceed down Lake Cham- 
plain in the daily steam boats, or by land in the mail coach. 

East. Travellers wishing to go to any part of the 
country in tliis direction, may take their choice of seve- 
ral routes. Lines of stage coaches run to Connecticut 
River from Burlington, Middleburj-, Castleton, and 
Granville, as v/ell as from Troy and Albany, in various 
directions — to Hanover, Brattleborough, Greenfield, 
Northampton, Springfield, Hartford ; and there subdi- 
viding into numerous ramifications, oifer the means of 
conve3''ance to every part of New-England. These 
routes are more particularly described under the head 
of " Roads" in the Index. 

To meet most of these routes, it will be necessary to 
proceed to some point north or south of the Springs, for 
which public carriages are established in several direc- 
tions from Saratoga and Ballston, concerning which, ar- 
rangements may be made at the bar of the house where 
the stranger is lodged. 

It is also important to mention, that two lines of 
coaches run along the courses of Hudson River and 
Wood Creek, one on each side ; and that the eastern one 
carries the mail through Castleton, Middlebury, Burlhig- 
ton, &c. along the course of Lake Champlain, though 
generally at too great a distance to command a view of 
it. The country there is very fine, the villages beauti- 
ful, and the surface frequently mountainous. This road 
meets several of the eastern roads ; but the traveller will 
probably prefer to take one of the four steam boats, as 
he can land at the most important points. 

The. most interesting rovie that can be chosen by a man 
of taste, from the Springs to Boston, is through Vermont 
to the White Mountains, and Winnipiseogee Lake iu 
o 



152 EXCUIISION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

New-Hampshire. He may take what road he pleases lo 
Connecticut River; and then proceeding to Bath on its 
eastern shore, pursue the course of the Lower Ammo- 
noosuc River along an improving road to Ethan A. 
Crmvford'' s house among the White Mountains. 

As lists of places and distances on the most important 
routes are given in different parts of this book, the tra- 
veller is once more referred to the Index at the end of 
the volume, for any further information he may wish to 
obtain on this subject. 

For the roads leading South and West from the 
Springe^ he is referred directly to Ballston^ where those 
routes are particularly mentioned and described. 

If he has never visited tlie Battle Ground at Bemis''s 
Heights^ or, as it is usually called, of Saratoga^ it may 
be recommended to him to take that interesting place iu 
his way, and to refer to page 118 for the description of it. 

EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE, 27 miles. 

This is by far the most delightful, as well as fashion- 
able excursion which can bo made from the Springs in 
any direction, as it abounds with some of the finest scene- 
ry in the United States, and in numerous sites and ob- 
jects intimately connected with the history of the country. 

A stage coach leaves Saratoga Springs every morn- 
ing, for Caldwell, at the south end of the lake, passing- 
through Glenn's Falls. 

From the time of the earliest wars between the British 
colonies and the FrencJi in Canada, to that of 1755, the 
tract over which part of our route lies was the high road 
of war. It was traversed by many a liostile expedition, 
in which the splendour and power of European arms 
mingled with the fierce tactics of savage warriors : the 
ruins of fortresses are still to be traced in several places, 
and tradition points to many a spot that has been sprin- 
kled with blood. During the revolution, also, some of 
the important events in our history took place in this 
neighbourhood. The Battle of Saratoga and the defeat 
of General Burgoyne have been already dwelt upon : 



m 




GLENN S FALLS. 153 

but we shall have to refer more than once to his expedi- 
tion as we pass other scenes with which the events of it 
are connected. 

The journey to Montreal may be made by the way of 
Lake George ; and this route the book will pursue, to 
Montreal and Quebec, whither the reader, it is hoped, 
will accompany it. 

The Road from Saratoga to Glenn's Falls, \^miles. 

Wilton, 7 m. Here take the left hand road, where a 
poor house stands at the angle. This will prove the 
better route, and meets the other branch twice, at 4 and 
(j miles distance. Thirteen miles beyond, the road 
branches off eastward for Sandy Hill. 

Half a mile before reaching- the village, the road en- 
ters a rich plain, probably once overflown by tlie river, 
which is now discovered on tbe left, dividing it in its 
course, while tlie village appears in front, with a hand- 
some church spire, and a number of neat white houses, 
all backed by the mountains, which here stretch off to- 
wards the north. 

French Mountain is the most prominent eiuinence, of 
wliich more anon. A more distant range is likewise 
seen further to the right. 

Glf-nn's Falls. 

If the traveller is going on immediately to the lake, he 
should stop a few moments on the bridge, to see the falls 
in the Hudson, which are in full view below. The river 
here makes a sudden descent of 37 feet, over a rock of 
dark blue lime-stone, which has been worn into so many 
forms as to break up the current in a very singular man- 
ner. The projection of two large masses of rock, divides 
the water into three sheets, (except when it is much 
swollen by floods.) Of these, the nortliern one is much 
the largest, and the other two unite and pass through a 
tieep channel, about 15 feet wide. A man jumped off 
/be bridge here, twice, a few years ago, yet escaped 



Ja4 EXCURSION TO LAKE O'KUUtii;, 

without serious injury. The most water passes through 
ijic other channel/'' 

A dam is thrown across just ahove the falls, wliich 
supphcs a Cotton Manufactory of Stojie with water, as 
well as several niills. On the north side of the river is a 
canal, which is intended for a feeder to the Champlain 
Canal, and may he finished in 1828. It now furnishes 
water for several mills, and an artificial cascade. 

The great fiat rock v/liich supports the bridge, pro- 
jects beyond it, and afi'ords space for a small garden on 
its highest part, although the greater part of it is over- 
Hown in high Hoods. Like tJie other rocky strata there, 
it has a gentle dip towards the south, and a perpendicu- 
lar fracture running nearly north and south. 

Caverns. — Passing through the garden, and turning 
lo the left, the mouths of two caverns are found facing 
the north, in different places among tiie rocks. They 
Lave been cut through by the rushing of water, in a di- 
rection across the river's course, and corresponding with 
the natural fracture. The first is just large enouoh to 
permit the passage of a man, and is cut with surprising 
regularity for a distance of about 25 feet. This place is 
made the scene of some of the most interesting chap- 
ters of Mr. Cooper's novel of the Last of the Mohicans. 
The cavern (perhaps altered since 1757,) was the place 
where the wanderers secreted themselves, and were 



-'^Sandv Hill, 3 miks eas'ward. 

This village is pleasantly situated .at the next fall in the ri- 
t'ev below. The cascade is less remarkable as an object o}' 
curiosity and interest, but it is still worthy of attention if the 
stranger have suflTicient time at liis disposal. He will find a 
pleasant ro;fd onward ; and if he should be on Isis return from 
Lake George, and wishes to visit this part of the river, the 
Field of Svr render, or the Baiile Crround, before rcacliing Si- 
ratoga or Kailston, he will find it convenient to follow the 
course of the river. The village has a good inn. 

For a description of the principal scenes of this route, sec 
Inde.x. 



FREXCII MOUNTAIN". 155 

made captives. The cavern conducts to one of the ri- 
ver's channels, where it opens on the side of a precipice, 
directly over the water. The banks of tJie river are per- 
pendicular rocks as far as they can be seen; and nearly 
opposite the caverns, under tlie nortli bank, is an abun- 
dant spring offline, pure water, which pours from a hole 
in the rock, a few feet from the surface of the river. 

To the disciples of Dr. Kitchener we will notice, that at 
Glenn's Fall, their taste for excellent cheer may be gra- 
tified to the greatest extent, at the inn of Messrs. Free- 
house and Thurston. The former having acquired his 
proficiency in cooking from a French artist, their dishes 
are prepared in the best possible manner, and in a varie- 
ty that will not fail to please. 

About half-way between this place and Sandy Hill, a 
convoy of wagons was attacked in the French war, on 
their way to Lake George. 

Nearly north of Glenn's Falls, is Luzerne Mountain ; 
and a little to the right of it, French Mountain. Be- 
tween them passes the road to Lake George. Towards 
the west, a range of high hills encloses the view, and in 
the east, the Vermont ?fiountains make a fine appear- 
ance. 

Near the foot of French Mountain is a small tavern, 
on the east side of the road ; and near this place Gen. 
Dieskau's advanced guard struck the route from Glenn's 
Falls and Fort Edwal-d to Fort William Henry. The 
valley through which we pass is narrow for some distance 
beyond ; and after about half an hour's ride, (for there 
are no mile stones,) a little circular pond is discovered 
on the east side, and close by the road. It is generally 
almost concealed with water plants. 

This was near the place of action between Col. Wil- 
liams and Gen. Dieskau. The latter had extended his 
troops across tfie path, and advanced Jiis wiigs some 
distance in front, the left wing occupying ihe rising 
ground on the west side of the road near this place. A 
small cleared spot may be noticed on the otaer side, a 
little beyond the pond, (in 1825 a hut stood upon it,) 
that is said to have been the principal scene of action ; 
o2 



f.iti EXCURSION TO LAKE GEOllGK, 

'.\nd ri singular rock near by is pointed out by tradition 
ys the mark of Col. Williams's grave. This, however, 
is considered very doubtful ; by others, it is said that he 
ascended the rock to reconnoitre, and was shot from its 
summit. {Page 160.) 

The little pond above mentioned was the place where 
most of the dead were thrown, and it bears the name of 
Bloody Pond to this day. It is probably much smaller 
th.in formerly. In 1825 the skeleton of a man was dug 
up from a depth of \h feet, near the pond, with a marble 
pipe, and some silver-eyed buttons bearing the royal 
stamp. This pond is nearly circular, and is covered, in 
their season, witli the Pond Lily, (Nymphea Alba,) their 
lurid petals shedding baleful influence upon the water. 

About a quarter of a mile beyond this place, is a fine 
view of 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Coming to the brovi' of a high hill, the prospect opens, 
and the lake appears, enclosed by mountains, many of 
which, at this distance, are of a deep blue. The side of 
French Mountain is near at hand on the east, covered 
with thick trees to the summit ; while the smoothness of 
the lake, the beauty of its nearest shore, with the neat 
wlute buildings of Caldwell, communicate to the scene a 
degree of beauty and seclusion, which can hardly be 
found in any other spot. Directly at the south end of 
T^ake George, are the remains of Forts George and Wil- 
liam Henry, famous in the history of ihe French war; and 
on the site of the former was General Johnson's camp, 
when he was attacked by Dieskau. The particulars of 
ith(.\ action will be given hereafter. 

Caldweli.. 

The village of Caldv^^ell is the place at v/hicli the visi- 
ter will stop to take a view of this cliarming lake, and 
from which he will make his excursions across its beauti- 
ful waters. The viliaii-e stands at the south end, of the 



LAKE GEORGi;. 13 ( 

lukc, and on its shore, commanding a fine view of the 
neighbouring sheet of water and tlie mountains by wliich 
it is ahnost enclosed. The inn to which strangers re- 
sort occupies a spot pccuUarly fitted to gratify the eye 
of taste, as it overlooks the lake for several miles, and 
the view is not interrupted by any neighbouring obsta- 
cle. A more delightful place can hardly be found in the 
United States, for the temporary residence of one who 
takes delight in scenery of this description, and lo es to 
recur to deeds long past, and to exploits great in them- 
selves and important in their results even to ihe present 
day. 

Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth 
4. At the south end it is only about one mile broad. 
The greatest depth is sixty fathoms. The water is re- 
markable for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at 
the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is undoubtedly supplied 
by springs from below, as ihe water is coldest near the 
bottom. It contains trout, bass, and perch. There are 
deer in the neighbouring forest. The outlet which leads 
to Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapids. 
The lake never rises more than two feet. 

The three best points of view are at Fort George, a 
place north of Shelving Piock, 14 rniles, and another at 
Sabbath Day Point, 21 miles from the head of the lake. 
The last view is taken southward, the other two north- 
ward. 

TJiis beautiful basin with its pure chrystal water, is 
bounded by two ranges of mountains, which, in some 
places rising with a bold and hasty ascent from the wa- 
ter, and in others descending willi a graceful sweep from 
a great height to a broad and level margin, furnish it 
with a charming variety of scenery, which every change 
of weather, as well as every change of position, presents 
in new and countless beauties. -The intermixture of cul- 
tivation with the wild scenes of nature is extremely 
agreeable ; and the undulating surface of the well tilled 
farm is often contrasted with the deep shade of the na- 
tive forest, and the naked, weather-beaten cliffs, where 
no vegetation can dwell. 



lo>U EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

The situation of the Hotel is delightful, surpassing 
that of almost every other to be found in this part of 
the country. The traveller may hereafter take plea- 
sure in comparing tlie scene enjoyed from his v/indow, 
with those he may witness from the walls of Quebec, 
Masonic Hall at Montreal, and Forsyth's at Niagara. 
The house is very large, having been increased within a 
3'^ear or two by the addition of a long wing, three stories 
high, so that it is now capable of furnishing lodgings 
for 100 persons, and the apartments are so arranged that 
half of them look out upon the lake. A green and 
handsome slope descends about .200 yards to the very 
margm, where there is no obstruction but a few trees 
and scattering buildings. There is the wharf, at which 
tlie steam boat receives and lands her passengers, often 
adding much variety to the place by an addition of 
company. The discharge of the signal gun makes 
fine echoes among the mountains in a clear night. 

The lake is here about three-quarters of a mile wide, 
and the range of mountains opposite,which are high and 
uninterrupted, are quite uncultivated with the exception 
of a few farms near the shore ; the other parts being 
covered with trees almost to the water. 

On the right is seen the south end of the lake, whicli 
is formed of low land for some distance back, succeeded 
by French Mountain in the rear. On a little point, 
half covered with trees, and rising only about 25 feet 
above the water, is the site of Fort William Henry; and 
about a mile towards the south-east from it, on a con- 
.«:iderable elevation, are the ruins of Fort George. For 
the history of these once important little fortresses, see 
page 160. 

Excursions on the'Lake, Fishing, &c. 

Boats are kept at the wharf to convey passengers to 
any part of the neighbouring shores and Islands. Fine 
perch, or black bass, (Perca Franktinia^ are caught in 
abundance almost every where ; and trout, at the mouth 



LAKE GEORGE. 159 

oi" a small stream near the south end. Fishing rods 
and tackle may be obtained at the liotel ; and a variety 
of other fish are to be found. 

Diamond Island is a few miles down the lake, and 
is famous for abounding in crystals of quartz, which are 
found in a loose rock by digging a little under the sur- 
face. They are found, however, in equal numbers in 
several of the other islands ; and it is, after all, the 
easier way to purchase them, and not to permit the la- 
bour of searching for them to interfere with the pleasure 
of the excursion, particularly as that labour is often in- 
effectual. A poor family hvc on Diamond Island, sub- 
sisting partly on a small spot of tilled land, and partly 
on the produce of the crystals they sell to visiters. 

Tea Island, about 2 miles down the lake, is another 
favourite retreat. The little bay in which the boats 
land is remarkably retired and beautiful, and there is an 
old hut standing which affords something of a shelter. 

Long Island contains about 100 acres, and has been 
inhabited and cultivated. Beside these, there are many 
other islands on the neighbouring parts of the lake ; and 
thoje who are fond of such excursions, would be highly 
delighted with devoting several days to visit them. 
The fmest cluster is in the Narrows, about 12 miles dis- 
tant. These will be spoken of hereafter. 

One steam boat usually goes three times a week to 
tjie north end of the lake ; but is always ready to per- 
form that excursion, and will take a party of twenty or 
more for .$'1 each. 

West of the village is a remarkable conical eminence, 
called Rattlesnakes'' Cobble^ or Prospect Hill. This, as 
well as the mountains beyond it, is the habitation of 
bears and deer, and much infested with rattle-snakes. 
The view from the top is very fine. It is the place 
from wliich Hawk-eye, in the '-' Last of the Mohicans," 
leads his companions into Fort William Henry through 
the mist. 

The French Approaches. The village of Caldwell 
is of recent date. In the French war, during the siege 
of fort William Henry, the ground which it now occu- 



160 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

pies was crossed by the trenches and batteries witii 
which Montcahn finally succeeded in forcing the capi- 
tulation of that little fortress. 

The place where he landed with his army is the little 
cove just behind the new stone building, a few steps 
north of the hotel. He erected his battery near the 
shore, and ran his first trench across the street into the 
fields in front of the hotel. The remains may still be 
traced, as well as the marks of a small mortar battery, 
near the bars of a fence leading to Pike's* house. Ano- 
tJier line runs to the bank of the lake, on this side of the 
brook, where was also a battery ; and another borders 
the swamp to tlis right, and another turns southward 
along the high ground. Behind this, in a pine wood, 
are the graves of about 1000 French soldiers, who died 
in the fort. 

Battle of Lake George. 

In 1755, the year after the commencement of the 
French War^ 3000 men were sent out from France to 
Quebec, for the purpose of taking Oswego Fort. This 
was situated at the mouth of the Oswego or Onou- 
dago River, and on the shore of Lake Ontario. The 
position derived its consequence from circumstances 
which no longer exist : the Indian trade from up the 
Lakes, the facility of communication with the Five Na- 
tions through that place, and the peculiar nature of 
the shores of Lake Ontario, which would not permit 
navigation (by canoes) on the other side. There the two 
great branches of Indian trade concentrated ; and the 
nation which held possession of the ponit necessarily 
swayed a great influence over the Indians them- 
selves : an advantage frequently of still greater impor- 
tance to the country. Oswego Fort naturally became an 



* This man, who is infirm, has leave from Mr. Caldwell 
to dig in the ruins of the Ibrt, and keeps a q'lantitv oi^ in 
f rresting- antinuities for s.-.!e. 



BATTLE OF LAKE GEOltGE. IGl 

object both to the French and the English at that time, 
and it formed a prominent figure in the history of the 
war. The English being in possession of that little 
fortress at the commencement of hostilities, its defence 
might doubtless have been easily secured, had their ope- 
rations been conducted with common prudence and en- 
ergy. Unfortunately they were conducted in a very 
different manner ; and whoever would see a clear and 
able history of the first English expeditions in that war, 
and of the political party spirit which then ruled in this 
country and rendered them worse than ineffectual, is re- 
ferred to " A Letter to a Lord,'^ written soon after. 

In 1755, Gen. Johnson, (afterwards Sir William,) 
marched to the south end of Lake George with a con- 
siderable number of men, joined by the famous Capt. 
Hendrick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, in- 
tending to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. Gen. 
Dieskau was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, prin- 
cipally taken from a body of French troops sent out to 
Quebec, 600 of whom had fallen into the hands of Ad- 
miral Boscawen at sea. Dieskau had first designed to 
besiege Fort Oswego. At Fort Frederick or Crown Point, 
lie remained some time, and then determined to go and 
meet the English. He therefore went up the South 
Bay, where learning the situation of Fort Lyman (now 
Fort Edward,) he wished to attack it and cut off the re- 
treat of Gen. Johnson. The Indians and Canadians, 
however, were in dread of the cannon with which it wa«! 
supposed to be defended, and he was obliged to march 
against Johnson. 

Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought John- 
son intelligence that Dieskau was coming. 1200 men 
v.^ere sent out in the morning, under the command of 
Col. Ephraim Williams, who met them at Rocky Brook, 
drawn up in a semicircle, into which the English en- 
tered before they knew it. A heavy fire from three 
sides first showed them the position of their enemies. 
The English stood their ground valiantly ; but Col. 
Williams and Hendrick being both shot down, together 
with many others, they were obliged to begin their re- 



162 EXCURSION TO LAKE GEORGE. 

treat, which was conducted by Col. Wliiting with tlie 
greatest coohiess and success. 

The centre of the EnghsJi army was posted on the 
hill where the ruins of Fort George now are ; and the 
French were discovered by them at lialf past 11. Dies- 
kau halted at the sight of his enemies, probably enter- 
taining some mistaken idea of tlie strength of their po- 
sition, and gave them time to recover from their panic. 
The ground on both sides of the English camp was 
marshy and covered with trees, and Dieskau sent his 
Indians out on the right flank and the Canadians on the 
left to surround them. Col. Pomeroy, however, soon 
put the former to flight with a few cannon shots. Dies- 
kau then brought up his troops in front, and made them 
fire by platoons, with very little effect. Gen. Johnson 
(happily for his own troops,) was slightly wounded in 
the thigh, and had to walk back to his tent, leaving the 
command with Gen. Lyman. He directed the defence 
for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre's artillery ; when the 
French turned upon the English right, which consisted 
of Ruggles's, Pomeroy's and Tittlecomb's regiments, 
and extended from the road to where Fort William 
Henry v/as afterwards built. Here they fought an hour, 
but the English and Indians charging them, they took 
to flight and many were killed. Gen. Dieskau himself 
was found leaning against a stump wounded — a soldier 
approaching saw him put his hand to his waist, to take 
out his watch, which he intended to offer to him, and 
supposing he was drawing a pistol, shot him througli 
the thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight men in a 
blanket, and it is said deterred Johnson from ordering a 
pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near at hand. 
Gen. Lyman urged to follow up their victory ; but that 
was probably a suificient reason for its being refused by 
a superior officer, who looked upon his great talents 
with jealousy, and, in spite of the advantage the coun- 
try had derived from his services, at a time when they 
were peculiarly valuable, did not even mention tiie name 
of Gen. Lyman in his account of the battle ! — Johnson 
was made a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out a few 



MASSACRE AT FOllT WILLIAM HENRY. lO'J 

years in poverty and disappointment, and died without 
receiving even the notice of the British government. 

The Enghsh are said to have lost only 216 in killed 
and 96 wounded. Gen. Diet-kau estimated his own loss 
at 1000 — the English called it much less. The princi- 
pal were a Maj. General, and M. de St. Pierre the com- 
mander of the Indians. The French lost their baggage 
during the action, left two miles in their rear, it being at- 
tacked by Captains Folsom and McGinnies v/ith about 
100 New-York troops ; who tiien lay in wait for the re- 
treating French, and killed great numbers of them. 

Gen. Johnson might liave taken Crown Point ; but 
he delayed it so long, that the French advanced to Ti- 
conderoga and there fortified themselves securely. 

But the Battle of Lake George is not the only nor 
the most sanguinary scene of former times which the 
traveller has to trace on this sadly interesting spot. 
The history of the French war recites a melancholy tale 
of blood-siied here, only two years afterwards, in 1737. 

The Capture and Massacre of Fort William 
Henry. 

So different was the state of the country sixty years 
ago, and so much in its infancy was the art of war in 
these wild regions, that a small work of earth thrown 
up on this site, and called Fort William Henry, was re- 
garded as a fortress of considerable strength and conse- 
quence. It is indeed far overlooked by the neighbour- 
ing high ground, but probably the dilHculty of dragging 
cannon over rocks and hills, covered with forests, was 
then considered a sufhcient obstacle to its performance, 
and probably for this reason Oswego Fort was built in a 
similar situation, and left so till taken by the French. 

In 1737, the Earl of Loudon, British Commander in 
Chief in America, made an unsuccessful attempt by sea 
against Louisburg ; and before his return to New-York 
in August, the French from Ticonderoga under the Mar- 
quis de Montcalm, had made three attacks on Fort 
William Henry. On tiie 1 st of August they set out 



it>4 EXCURSION TO LAKK GEORGE. 

again, and landed at. Frenchman ''s Point. On the eve-' 
iiing of the 2d, they crossed to the west side of Lako 
George, within two miles of tlie Fort, and the next 
morning sent in their sunmions. Col. Monroe defend- 
ed himself resolutely for six days, hoping relief from 
Col. Webb and his 6000 men at Fort Edward ; but hav- 
ing waited in vain, and burst ten of his largest cannon, 
he was obliged to surrender, and marched out with the 
honours of war and an assurance of being protected 
from the Indians in Montcalm's army. 

He had gone but a little way, however, when the sa- 
vages fell upon his troops and butchered about 1500, 
men, women, and children. 

Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The pro- 
vincial troops were kept under arms for one whole day 
after the news of the siege arrived at Fort Edward, and 
Sir William Johnson was very desirous to march with 
them to its relief; but Webb ordered them back to their 
quarters, and sent a messenger to Col. Monroe advising 
him to surrender. 

Attack on Fort Ticoxderoga. 

The south end of I^ake George Vv^as the scene of a 
splendid embarkation on the 4th of July of the follow- 
ing year, [1758,] when 10,000 provincial troops, and 
6 or 7000 regulars assembled at this place to proceed 
against Ticonderoga.* 1035 boats were drawn up to 
the shore one clear delightful summer morning, and 
were speedily filled with this powerful army, excepting 
only a small body left with the baggage. Success was 
confidently expected, and the appearance of the train 
was more like that of a triumphant return from war. 



* Lord Howe, who accompanied this expedition, was a 
young nobleman of amiable disposition and the mos*^ ur. pos- 
sessing manners, and was almost idolized by the army, as 
well as admired and loved by the coimtrv. 




Cheslci 



LAKE GKOIIGK. 165 

The boats were decorated with gaudy streamers, and 
the oars moved to martial music. 

The traveller will follow their route in the steam boat, 
for which see below. 

They landed at the north end of the lake on the fol- 
lowing morning', and were ordered to march on in four co- 
lumns. The obstructions of the forest however soon broke 
their ranks ; when Lord Howe, with his ceiitre column, 
falling in with the enemy's advance guard, who were on 
their retreat and bewildered, was atta' ked with a sud- 
den war whoop and immediately killed. The provin- 
cials were accustomed to the woods, and drove back 
their enemies, killing about 300, and taking 148 prison- 
ers, and all returned to the landing. In the morning. 
Col. Bradstreet took possession of the mill at the great 
falls on the river, and the army were soon brought up 
to the French lines, which were thrown up across the 
isthmus and not finished. This entrenchment is still to 
be seen in tolerable preservation. It had two redoubts 
and a deep abattis, and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet 
high, though that &eems improbable. The attack was 
vigorous, and the defence obstinate. The battle con- 
tinued four hours, durmg which tl:e English were repuls- 
ed three times. The Highland regiment distinguished 
itself, and suffered severely. The English loss, in all, 
was 1944, principally regulars ; the French very trifling, 
although they are said not to have imagined tlie defence 
possible. Their force is dilFerently stated from 1200 to 
6000. Notwithstanding his superiority of force, Aber- 
crombie shamefully ordered a retreat ; and thus termi- 
nated the operations of the year. 

Voyage down Lake George. 

Leaving Caldwell, and passing Mr. Caldwell's house 
at a quarter of a mile, the steam boat passes Tea Island, 
Diamond, Long, and other Islands, particularly the 
Two Sisters ; and then the lake becomes wider, and the 
surface more uninterrupted, the course of the boat be- 
:nf>- directlv towards a remarkable eminence, Vv'ith a 



lOG luXCUlLSIOX TO LAKE GEOilGE. 

double summit, called Tongue Mountain. That which 
partly shuts it in fz-om this direction on the right, is 
Slielving Rock ; and Black Mountain shows its rounded 
summit beyond it, a little to the right. This last is sup- 
posed to be about 2200 feet high, and is considered tho 
highest mountain on the lake. 

Twelve Mile Island appears to be at the foot of 
Tongue Mountain, and is seen just ahead for a great 
distance after leaving Caldv/ell. It is of a singularly 
rounded fonv., covered with trees, with the utmost regu- 
larity, and protected from the washing of the waves bj' 
a range of large stones along the shore, so well disposed 
as to seem hke a work of art. 

A rich and cultivated slope is seen on the western 
shore, before reaching Tongue Mountain, which belongs 
to a new township. 

The Narrows. 

The lake is very much contracted where it passes be- 
tween the mountains just mentioned, and their surface 
is for several niiles broken by innumerable islands. 
These are of various sizes, but generally very small, and 
of little elevation. A fev/ of them are named, as Green, 
J3ass, Lone-tree Islands. Some of them are covered 
with trees, others with shrubs, soir.e show little lawns 
or spots of grass, heaps of barren rocks, or gentle slo- 
ping sliores ; and most of them are ornamented with 
graceful pines, hemlocks, and other tall trees, collected 
in groupes, or standing alone, and disposed with most 
charming variety. Sometimes an island will be observ- 
ed just large enough to support a few line trees, or 
perhaps a single one, while the next may appear like a 
solid mass of bushes and wild flowers : near at hand, 
perhaps, is a third, with a dark grove of pines, and a de- 
caying old trunk in front of it ; and thus, through every 
interval between the islands as you pass along, another 
and another labyrinth is opened to view, among httle 
isolated spots of ground, divided by narrow channels, 
from which it seems impossible for a ])erson v/ho should 



nOGERS SLIDE. 1G7 

iiavc entered them, ever to find his way out. Some of 
the islands look almost like ships with their masts ; and 
many have an air of lightness as if they were sailing 
upon the lake. 

After passing the Narrows, the lake Vv^dens again, 
and the retrospect is, for several miles, through that 
passage, with Tongue Mountain on the west, and Black 
Mountain opposite, the Luzerne range appearing at a 
great distance between them. The mountains in view 
have generally rounded summits ; but the sides are in 
many places broken by precipitous ledges. They are 
inhabited by wolves, deer, rattle snakes, &c. 

Sabbath Day Point. 

This is a low neck of land, stretching into the lake 
from the western shore, and containing the little village 
of Hague. That on the opposite shore is Putman. 

On Sabbath Day Point, Lord Amherst, with his nu- 
merous host, stopped for refreshment upon the morn- 
ing of the Sabbath, and gave this beautiful point the 
name by which it is now known : it is a charming spot 
and susceptible of the greatest embellishment. 

Rogers' Rock and Anthony's Nose. 

These are two mountains at which the lake again con- 
tracts itself to pass between them. The shores of the 
lake still continue elevated, and but a few cultivated 
farms are distinguishable here and there. Anthonj'^'s 
Nose presents a precipice, on the eastern shore, as wo 
enter the strait ; and the firing of a gun produces a fine 
echo. Rogers'" Rock, or Rogers' Slide is a still more 
formidable one, on the other hand, a little further on. 
The last retrospect up the lake is still very fine, even 
from this point — Black Mountain being yet clearly to be 
seen. 

Rogers^ Slide has its name from Capt. Rogers, a par- 
tizan officer who distinguished himself in the French 
war bv his boldness, activity and success. He command- 
V 2 



liju i.XCLR.SiU\ TO LAKE GLOIIGK. 

ed an expedition which left Crown Point in the yepj' 
1*56 against the Canadian frontiers, and cut off the In- 
dian village of St. Francis, afterwards returning, with 
the severest hardships, by the way of Connecticut River, 
Tradition says, that he was at another time closely pur- 
sued by a party of Indians and forced to retreat to the 
verge of this mountnin. Finding no other way to escape, 
lie descended half down by the ravine which opens to- 
wards the south, and then by a sudden turn came to the 
east side, where is a precipice about two hundred feet 
high, of smooth rock, and nearly perpendicular, down 
which he slipped upoji his snov/ shoes to the lake, es- 
caping upon the ice. The water is deep at the bottom, 
and fine trout are caught there with a long line. 

The lake here assumes the appearance of a narrow 
pond for three or four miles, and seems closed at both 
ends. The ground is still elevated on both sides, but 
bills have succeeded to mountains, and some of there are 
at length overtopped by Black Mountain, which, al- 
though at such a distance, at length makes its appear- 
ance again, and continues in sight. The lake at length 
diminisiies to a very narrow stream, and the bottom be- 
comes gradually covered with weeds. 

Lord Hoive^s Landing is just behind an island of 3 
acres, on the left hand at the entrance of the creek. 
Here is the spot where the unfortunate expedition of 
Abercrombie effected their landing, and on the island 
they established their hospital, on their way to the at- 
tack of Ticonderoga. 

The steam boat passes on some distance beyond this 
place, and lands her passengers on the other side, where 
at her regular voyages, carriages are found in waiting 
to con^'ey them to Ticonderoga, 3 miles, over a rough 
road. 

Those who intend to take a steam boat on Lake 
Champlain, should be careful to inquire the hour when 
it passes, and regulate their time accordingly. Ticonde- 
roga has become one of the stopping places, which will 
prove a great convenience, to the numerous travellers 
attracted to this interesting spot. 



TICONDEROGA. 169 

Abercrombie's army passed for some part of the way 
along the route we travel. Passing the Upper Falls, 
which are the highest, he forded the creek above the 
second. At the falls near the bridge which we cross, 
just above the saw mills, was a stone block house ; and 
tliere v/as a redoubt on the north side of the stream near 
the bridge, where, as in several other places, there was 
some fighting to carry the French outposts. 

At the Upper Falls are several valuable saw mills and 
forges, and the scenery is highly picturesque. 

THE FORTRESS OF TICONDEROGA. 

This famous old fortress, or rather its remains, are 
distinctly seen from Lake Charnplain, though, from the 
direction by which we approach it, they are discovered 
only at a short distance. An elevated piece of land, 
gently sloping tov/ards the south, and ending abruptly 
over a bend of the lake, appears, partially covered with 
trees, and crowned near its extremity with a cluster of 
broken walls and chimne3^s. There is a meadow on 
the eastern side, running to the base of the ridge, and 
across this is a foot path from the ferry to the fort by the 
nearest way. A carriage road also leads Ironi the ferry 
to the ridge, and thence down to the same place. 

The Old French Lines, 

where General Abercrombie was defeated in 1758, are 
the only part of the fortification v/hich was ever the 
scene of a battle. They commenced on the east side, at 
a battery of heavy cannon on the shore, about a quarter 
of a mile south of the ferry. The remains of the breast- 
work can yet be seen. The lines were drawn in a zig- 
zag ; first stretching off to the right, along th.e side of 
marshy ground to a cluster of bushes where was a bat- 
tery ; and then to the left to the verge of a wood, where 
was another. 

Their course may be distinctly traced in this manner, 
across the ridsre of land at its liighest elevation, over to 



ViO KOLTE TO CAXADA, 

tlie brow of a steep bank looking towards the oatkt of 
Lake George. The ground is so high on the top of this 
ridge, that it must have been a commanding position 
when clear of trees. The woods that now so much in- 
terrupt the sight, have grown since the evacuation of 
tlie fortress, after the Revolutionary war. 

There is a fine spring of water near the western part 
of the French lines, where a bloody engagement oc- 
curred between two hostile parties during the battle. 
Bodies of men have been dug up liereabouts within a 
few years, and shot were formerly very frequently found 
in old timber. 

Mount Hope is a hill about a mile north from this 
place. It was occupied by General Burgoyne's British 
line, which formed the right wing on his approach to 
Ticonderoga, on the 2d of June, 1777 ; and on the fol- 
lowing morning, while they were approaching through 
the woods, unsuspicious and undiscovered, one of their 
soldiers was observed and fired upon from a salient an- 
gle of the lines. This alarmed the British, who fired; 
and the Americans were so much excited that they re- 
turned three volleys, without orders from their officers. 
Strange as it may seem, not a man was killed on either 
side, and the enemy retired without attempting any 
thing further there, for they succeeded in capturing the 
fortress in a few daj's, by gaining the top of Mount De- 
fiance with their cannon. 

In proceeding from the French lines south towards 
the fortress, by a gentle descent, the surface of the 
ground appears to have been in some places smoothed 
in former times by tlie plough, and by the removal and 
cutting away of rocks, to render it convenient for the 
evolutions of troops, and the use of artillery. A close 
observer will also remark that he passes the remains of 
Kcveral distinct lines of small redoubts, placed at equal 
distances, and ranged in the form of a quincunx. These 
were intended to embarrass still further the approach to 
the fortress, which assumes tlic air of a, more important 
ivorkasyou approach it. 



T1C0XDEK.GGA. 171 

There are two old entrencliments, 270 and 150 yards 
from the fortress ; and then comes the edge of the outer 
ditch or counterscarp, where there was a row of pahsa- 
does. Five steps more bring you to the walled side of 
the ditch, which is still eight I'eet deep in some places, 
and therefore impassable except where it lias been part- 
ly filled up. Its breadth is generally about 8 or 9 yards, 
and the wall of tlie fortress on the other side in some 
places 20 or 25 feet high. 

The fortress is of an angular form, and embraces a 
large tract of ground, being divided into parts by deep 
ditches, which were defended by cannon and musketry, 
and added very much to the security of the place. The 
communicai.ion between these different parts vv'as kept 
vip by stone staircases, placed in convenient positions of 
the angles, all so calculated as to make the descent into 
the ditches, and the ascent circuitous and intricate ; and 
open to the cannon and small arms. A glance at some 
of those that remain will show the plan. The walls 
v.'cre originally much higher than at present, being 
raised by superstructures of logs filled in with earth, to 
such a height as to protect the barracks. 

The Barracks formed an oblong, and the walls still 
remain of all except those on the eastern side ; their 
form is plainly distinguishable. The parade, which they 
include, appears to have been formerly carefully smooth- 
ed. This area is about 52A yards long, and 8 in breadth. 
The barracks, &c. the walls of which remain on the 
north, soi'th, and west sides, are built of the rough blue 
lime-stone, of which the neighbouring rocks are formed, 
two stories high ; and these, with the chimnies, several 
of which are standing, are the principal objects seen 
from a distance. By the southern entrance, Ethan Al- 
len entered with his 83 raw soldiers when he surprised 
the fortress on the 18th May, 1775 ; and on reaching the 
court yard and calling on the commander to surrender, 
the British officer, Capt. Depiace, made his appearance 
at a window and submitted, delivering up 3 officers and 
44 rank and file. In consequence of this coup de mnin. 



172 IlOUTi: TO CA.NADA. 

IhiN imporlant, ])ln.rc was in tlj(! Iiands of iho Ainfricaiii* 
until llx: arrival ofiJur^royjio in 1777. 

T]w ])aUlcinciilH oi' 'f'i(;(»n(lor()ira lirsl boro the flaj^; 
of in(l(!i)«!tj(lfii(;(>. TImh circuniKlanco hIiouUI of ilH(!lf 
render this ruin, »o lim; in oilier associations, inlcrcwling" 
to flic traveller. 

At each corn(*r was a bastion or a domi-bastion ; nnd 
under that in the north-eastern ono is a subterranean 
jipartmcnt, tlie access to which is tlu'oufjh a small en- 
trance nciir that corner of the (courtyard. It communi- 
cates with two majxaziiies at the further end : that on 
tJ!(! left, which is the larijor, bcinf>- If) or '20 feet loni"-. 
The room in also arclMMl, measures about 35 feet in 
len/rth, '^1 in breadth, and 10 or II in hei;(rht, and like 
the tnafrazines was bomb proof. The cellars south of 
this, which belonf»-ed to the demolished buildinj^.s, and 
uru almost lilled up, have a rooJii or two with lire ])laccs 
Ktill diytin^uishablc. 

Tin: Gkicnadikrs'' Battkry. 

This inijtortant outwork is situated on a rocky point 
towards the east from the nuiin fortress. They were 
connected by a covered way, tin; traces of which are dis- 
tinctly visible. It was surrounded by a wall faced witli 
stone, with live sides, one of whic^li measures about liiO 
feet ; but that towards the lake has been undermined by 
time and slipped down the bnnk. The remaininju; parts 
are neiirly entire, and about 10 feet hioh. 

Still in adva)ic(! of tlu; (Jrenadiers' jiattery is a small 
work of earth, which mifrlit have contained 5 or (i ^runs ; 
whih; in front of it, and on tiie extreme })oint, two or 
three more ^uns appear to liave been placed })etwcen the 
rocks, to fire down upon tlie water, about 40 feet below. 
A little further east, and under the bank, is an old stone 
Jiouse, formerly a store belon<i^inf»- to the fort, and now 
occufiied by the tenant of Mr. Pell, the proprietor of the 
whole pcHiinsuIa of Ticonderof^a. On a spot formerly 
occujjied as tin; King''s Gardrn^ Mr. P. has a fine garden, 
;jboundinir in the choic(;st fruits imported from Europe, 



MOLNT DEHANCi:. ITJ 

;i.!i(l transported from the celebrated nursericH of honrr 
J>Iaiid. ]NIr. Poll has been a very successful propa;?a.tor 
of the locust tree, ( liohinia PtcvAo ncacin of Linnetus,) 
thousands of whicli are gTov:\nfr on these grounds in the 
most flourishinjj manner : here is also the Ma'^nolia 
Grnndfjlora^ never before cultivated in no hij^h a lati- 
tude ; the horse chesnut (Castanta Kqul/nux,) and up- 
wards of 70 varieties of the jrooseborry from Europe. 
Here also we find the beautiful Cala/pa, and the Lirio- 
(hndron lu,\'n)r..fnra. The g-rounds are laid out with jjood 
taste, and are kept with care and in excfallont order. 
If it is the ijitention of tlie traveller to cross the lake, to 
the neiijhbouring Vermont shore, where are still some 
slight remains of Burgoyne's entrenchments, he will be 
much pleased witli a walk across the meadows to the 
upper ferry, a distance of about | of a rnilc. This will 
remind him, if he has been abroad, of the park scenery of 
England ; .and the view of the rums from those mea- 
dows is strikingly beautiful. 

Between the Grenadiers' Battery and the fortress, the 
shore retains traces of many little terraces, breastworks, 
and buildings, such as were probably work shops, bar- 
racks, stores, &c. 

The great mountain, wliich rises dark and abruptly 
from the opposite sliore, is 

Moi.vT Defiance, about 800 feet high, on the summit 
of which Gen. Burifoyne'ri troops showed themselves on 
the morning of July 4th, 1777, with a battery of heavy 
cannon, which they had drawn up along the ridge by 
night, and planted in that commanding position, whence 
they could count the men in the fort. The distance to 
the summit in a straight line is about a rniIe,so that the 
defence of Ticonderoga would have been impossible; and 
on the firing of a ^<it\w shots by the British upon a vessel 
in the lake, which proved the range of their guns, the 
Americans made preparations to evacuate the place, and 
effected their retreat to the opposite shore during the 
night. 

The ascent of Mount Defiance is laborious, but the view 
is extrernelv fine from its summit. 7'iicro arc the remains 



174 ROUTE TO CAXAUA. 

of Burgoyne's batlery, with holes drilled in the rocks for 
blasting, and the marks of a large block house. 

Mount Independence is a hill of comparative!}'- small 
elevation east of Mount Defiance, and separated from it 
by the lake, v/hich has here reduced its size to that of a 
small river. On a bank, just above the water, are the 
remains of a zig-zag battery for about 40 or 50 guns, run- 
ning across a little corn field behind a house, and making 
five or six angles. The Horse Shoe Battery is traceable 
on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. A 
bridge once connected Ticonderoga with Mount Defi- 
ance, the buttresses of which are remaining, to the great 
annoyance of the navigctors of the lake ; the steam-boat 
passes to the south of them. On the west shore, (near 
the stone store house,) Arnold, when pursued by the 
British, caused his flotilla to be run on shore. These 
hulks remain almost as sound as when first stranded. A 
forty-two pounder is said to have ranged from the Horse 
Shoe over this channel, (now marked by a buoy,) and 
the fortress. 

After the Revolutionary war about 500 cannon were 
lying about the fortress, lines, &c. many of them as left 
by the English with their trunclieous Itnockod off. 

The mountainous region on the west side of the lake 
abounds with deer, and considerable numbers are killed 
every season. 

The Passage from Ticonderoga down Lake Cham- 
plain 

is very pleasant, abounding, the greater part of the way 
to Canada, with fine natural scenes. 

The improvements produced in the country enclosing 
Lake Champlain, by the establishment of steamboats 
and the opening of the Northern Canal, have been very 
great. The produce formerly sent southward was ne- 
cessarily subject to heavy expenses of transportation ; 
■while the merchandize brought in return was liable to 
deia^, uncertainty, injuries by land carriage and expo- 
sure to the weather and to pilferers, which a.re obviated. 



LAKE CllAMl'LAIX. [>.'> 

and these circumstances, it is well known, produce pow- 
erful efFects. The towns on the lake, five or six years 
ago, were ill supplied with merchandize, which is now- 
found in abundance and cJieap. Some of them have 
more than doubled their size since 18':22, and numerous 
villages have sprung- up into activity and thrift from al- 
most nothing. New roads have also been made into the 
interior, and mills have been erected on the tributary 
streams for cutting up the supplies of valuable timber in 
the forests. In the two townships of Crown Point and 
Moriah, there are about 60 lumber mills, which will be 
able to furnish a million of pieces of timber. They con- 
tain also va st beds of iron ore, for which forges and fur- 
naces have been erected. The iron region lies between 
the lake and the north-eastern branch of the Hudson, 
which heads 6 miles west of it. 

At Swanton, Ver. are quarries of dove-coloured and 
black marble, where 300 sav/s are kept at work. It is 
carried to iVew-York in considerable quantities. 

Great numbers of small schooners navigate the wa- 
ters of Lake Champlain, and within a few yea.rs nu- 
merous canal boats, some of them fitted with 'masts 
for schooners for sailing, Annesley's mode of build- 
ing" vessels has lately been adopted here to some ex- 
tent, in which timbers are discarded, and hulls formed of 
inch boards running in several thicknesses, and in cross 
directions. 

Only about 20 vessels sailed on this lake before the 
canal was opened to the Hudson. In 1827 there were 
218 owned in the limits of the United States, with an 
amount of tonnage of about 12,000. Lake vessels and 
boats are employed on the canal every year to the num- 
ber of about 375. 

Five Mile Point 

was the landing place of Gen. Burgoyne's expedition, as 
already mentioned. Mountains appear in the west and 
north-west, with occasional intervals all the way up to 
Crown Point ; while in the north, is a lofty and imposing 

Q. 



170 ROUTE TO CANADA. 

range, with two or three peaks ahiiost bald from the 
Iieight of tlieir elevation. Summits niultiply as we pro- 
ceed, and dista.nt mountains arise also in the north-east ; 
while Mount Defiance and other eminences towards the 
south bound the view in that direction. There are scat- 
tering farms and houses on both shores. 

Tliere are many fish caught in some parts of the lake. 
The shores are in this part strewed with the fragments 
of blue lime-stone rock with organi-^ remains. The im- 
mediate shores arc generally low ail the way to Crown 
Point, where the lake suddenly turns to the west at a 
right angle, and at the distance of a mile as suddenly 
to the north again. A low stretch of land covered with 
a young forest on the left, conceals the approach to 
this ancient fortress, which, for position, as well as ap- 
pearance and history, may be called the twin sister of 
Ticonderoga. 

Chimney Point, 

where the steam boat often receives and lands passen- 
gers, is on the north side of the lake, with a large pub- 
lic house in a pleasant situation ; and here is the place 
to stop, if the traveller intends to visit Crown Point, 
which is opposite, across a ferry | of a mile. 

A ferry boat will take the traveller over to Crown 
Point at any hour, but the steamboat proceeds imme- 
diately. 

The Fortress of Crown Point. 

There are several old works thrown up along the 
shore, with little bays between them. The eastern-most 
is called the Grenadiers' Battery, the middle one is the 
original old French fort of 1731, and now encloses a 
garden ; and that further west is an outwork to a bas- 
tion of the fortress. 

The fortress is situated about a quarter of a mile back 
from the shore, and appears much like Ticonderoga from 
a distance, showing the walls and chimneys of the oM 



ciiowN roiNT, 177 

barracks, and walls of earth surrounding; them. In re- 
gurd to its plan, however, it is materially different. The 
fortress of Crown Point was a star work, being in the 
form of a pentagon, with bastions at the angles, and a 
strong redoubt at the distance of 250 or 300 yards in 
advance of each of them. The fortress is surrounded 
by a ditch walled in with stone, except where it has been 
blasted into the solid rock of blue lime-stone, (as is the 
case in many parts, fro!n five to twenty-five feet,) and 
even into the quartz rock which underlays it. Univalve 
shells are found in the lime-stone rock, frequently four 
inches in diameter. The walls are about 20 or 25 feet 
high, and there is a convenient path running entirely 
round upon the top, interrupted only by the gates at the 
north and south sides. Although much shaded by tall 
sumacs, some fine views are enjoyed in making the cir- 
cuit, which is not far short of lialf a mile. It was built 
in 1756. 

Opposite the north gate is a small ledge of rocks ; 
and close by, the remains of a covered or subterraneous 
way to the lake shore. On entering the fortress, the 
stranger finds liiniself in a level, spacious area, bounded 
on the left, and in front, by long ruinous buildings of 
stone two stories high, and the first 220 feet long, while 
the ruins of similar ones are seen on two sides on the 
right. This parade is about 500 feet in length. The 
place was surprised by Col. Warner in 1775. 

The view from the walls towards the north is very 
fine : looking down the lake, which widens at the dis- 
tance of two or tiirec miles, you have Chimney Point 
on the riglit, and two other points projecting beyond 
the distant peak, called CanicVs Hump. A range of 
mountains on the western shore, beginning at the dis- 
tance of 18 miles, including Bald Peak., gradually ap- 
proach till they form a near and bold boundary to tJie 
lake on the left, scattered with cleared farms and 
houses, and then stretching away to the south, termi- 
nate in the mountains behhid. This elevation, although 
it seems almost as well calculated to command Crowu 



i to JIOUTE TO CANaL'A. 

Point as Mount Defiance docs Ticonderoga, is not ic^.- 
tiian four miles distant. 

Every thing about this old fortress bears the marks ol' 
ruin. Two magazines were blown up ; the timbers in 
the south barracks are burnt black ; a portion of the 
shingled roof which remains serves to cover a little hay 
mow and the nests of robins ; while some of the en- 
trances and otlier parts are fenced up for a sheep fold. 
The ground around it is much covered with fragments 
of blasted rocks, and, particularly at the south, with the 
ruins of old buildings. The trees which are seen have 
grown since the evacuation of the place; and on one of 
the angles is an inscription of the date of the fortress. 

In 1776 the British had a fleet on Lake Chaniplain 
composed of the following vessels : ship Inflexible, Capt. 
Pringle, carrying 18 twelve pounders; two schooners, 
one with 14 the other witii 12 six pounders ; a flat-bot- 
tomed radeau with 6 twenty-fours and 6 twelves ; and 
20 small craft, each carrying a gun from nine to twenty- 
foar pounders, and several long boats, beside boats for 
baggage stores, &c. 

The Americans had only 2 brigs, 1 corvette, 1 sloop, 
3 galleys, and 8 gondolas, the largest vessel carrying 
only 12 six and four pounders. These were under the 
command of Arnold, who drev/ tliem up between the 
island of Valincourt and the western shore, where they 
were attacked. They fought four hours, and tiie British 
at last retreated ; but while making his way towards 
Crown Point, Arnold was overtaken, and nearly all the 
squadron fled up the lake, passing this place which was 
evacuated. Arnold remained fighting as long as possi- 
ble, and did not leave his vessel until she had taken fire. 

On making a signal at the ferry to the steam boat, 
she will stop and send for a passenger. Proceeding- 
down the lake, the breadth of it soon increases, and at 
the two islands on the right it is about ih miles across. 
A little further is 

Put-in-Bai/, on the eastern shore, with an island of 
the same name. A little north of this is a small island 
on the right, with three bushes on it. vrhich has henc«> 



u 



Morth 




BUnLlNGTO.V, iTl* 

ubtiiincd the name of the Scotch Bonnet. Lookinj^ 
south the lake presents a fine expanse, extending ahnost 
to Crown Point, with Bald Peak conspicuous on the 
right. 

Basin Harbour is a stopping place. It is very- 
small, with room for only 3 or 4 vessels. At a great 
distance in the N. E. is seen the CamePs Hump : further 
north a high mountain in Halifax, Vt. 

Sloop Island, 17 miles from Burlington, is low in 
the middle, and contains several trees, which look not 
unlike masts. It was mistaken for a sloop in a misty- 
day, in the Revolutionary or French war, and fired 
upon by a vessel, whence its name. 

At Hartford the lake suddenly opens to the breadlli 
of several miles, and a new scene is presented to view. 
On the west side is a rounded island covered with pine 
trees, like much of the shore previously seen, and sepa- 
rated from the main land only by a narrow rent of about 
fifteen leet. Apparently just within this aperture is a 
rude arch of rock, like the remains of an ancient bridge. 
A beautiful bay makes up behiiid the island, of which a 
glimpse is caught in passing ; and a little further north 
it opens beautifully to view, with a sm.ooth declining 
shore cultivated for several miles; while a blue range of 
the Alleghanies rises behind them, like the Catskill 
Mountains seen from the city of Hudson. 

On the eastern side, the Green Mountains tower at a 
distance over the wild, uncultivated shore, till a cluster 
of white buildings is discovered fornnng tiie little village 
of Charlotte or McNeil's Ferry, which is backed by a 
few fields and orchards. Further nortli the shores arc 
rocky, and rise abruptly from the water. 

BURLINGTON, 

75 milts from Whitehall, 

This is the largest town on Lake Cliamplain, and is 
situated in a commanding as well as a delightful posi- 
1 ion. The lake suddenly widens as you approach it from 
' a 2 



lUO 110 UTE TO CANADA. 

the south, and a fine semicircular bay puts up to it Iroin 
the west, surrounded by a crescent of high ground, under 
tJie shelter of which the town is situated. The view 
from the top of the hills is truly admirable ; embracing 
in the foreground the elegant gardens of some of the 
wealthier inhabitants, with the streets of Burlington be- 
low, the cundng form of the bay, the whole breadth of 
the lake, here ten miles across, and a noble chain of dis- 
tant blue mountains on the opposite side. The college 
has been rebuilt. The road to Windsor by the Gulf is 
ver}'^ good and interesting. 

There has lately been established here, a glass house, 
on a large scale. 

Pout Kent, 10 miles^ 

is a small village on the western shore 16 miles from Bur- 
lington. It was begun to be built in 1824, to serve as a 
port to the iron works established a little back in the 
country, where there is a vast quantity of ore. About 
2000 tons of iron ore are annually made at Essex and 
Clinton ; and 3000 or 6000 tons might be furnished. It 
contains two large stores, a wharf, &;c. 

A railway has been contemplated from this place to 
Clintonville on the Sable river, where are extensive 
mines of iron. The land is favourable, and the whole 
work, 15 miles, would probably cost only .f:45,000. In 
1827, not less than |20,000 were paid for the transpor- 
tation of the article to Lake Champlain. 

The opening of the state road, already authorized by 
the Legislature, from the Lake to Hopkinton, St. Law- 
rence Co. will introduce great activity into that district. 
Inexhaustible beds of iron ore will be wrought near this 
route. 

PLATTSBURGH, 8 miles. 

This is a town of considera])le importance, situated on 
the banks of a small river called the Saranac, and just 
behind the high and steep bank of the lake, on which is 



PLATTSBURGir. I8J. 

a line efforts erected for the defence of the place. The 
town commands a fine view. There are some remark- 
able Waterfalls on the Saranac. 

Plattsburgh was the scene of a land and naval battle 
iluring the late war with Great Britain. 

The Battle or Plattsburgii. 

While Gen, Macomb was stationed at Plattsburgh, Sir 
George Prevost came from Canada with an army, and 
occnpying- the village, stood ready to attack the Ameri- 
can troops, who were in position on the elevated ground, 
between the east bank of the Saranac and the precipi- 
tous shore of the lake, where a number of forts, &;c. are 
still to be seen. Com. M^Donough was at that time on 
tlie lake with the American squadron ; and hearing of the 
ap})roach of Capt. Downie with the British ships, ex- 
tended his line between Hospital Island and Cumberland 
Head, where he received and fought the enemy, with 
•such success as to capture all his vessels. The action 
continued 2 hours and 20 minutes, and was performed in 
full sight of the armies. Capt. Downie's ship, the Con- 
tiance, had 105 shot in her hull, and the Saratoga 59, 
and was twice on fire. This battle caused the retreat of 
Prevost, and relieved that part of the country from being 
overrun. 

M^Donnugli's Farm lies on that part of Cumberland 
Head which is opposite the scene of his battle, and con- 
sists of 200 acres. It was presented to him by the Lc;- 
gislature of Vermont,* in gratitude for his victor}-. 



* St. Albans. At St. Albans, in Vermont, an extnnsive 
" slide," or avalanclie, occLUTcd on the 4th of July, 1827, of 
almost unprecedented extent. It began on the north west 
side of Miinsfield Mountain near the top, which is 4,279 feet 
above tide water. It was from 20 to 30 yards in breadth, and 
moved down 3 miles, although the greater part of the surface 
was gradually sloping, with the exception of a precipice of 
near 100 feet. 

The top of the mountain (the highest in the state) over- 



182. ROUTK TO CAXADA, 

CHAZY, 15 milc^. 
Rouse''s Point, 12 miles. 

There is a village by this name, on the western side ; 
and a mile^beyond it. 

The Fort, Which is a kind of largo castle, built of 
hewn stone, with perpendicular walls, and three tiers of 
embrasures. It stands at the end of a low point, and was 
built to command the passage of tlie lake during the last 
war. On running the line of the United States and Ca- 
nada, the commissioners at first fixed the boundary a lit- 
tle south of this place, so as to bring the fort within the 
limits of the latter ; but in consequence of the line agreed 
on by the treaty coming too near Quebec, it was deter- 
mined that an arrangement should be made for the ben- 
efit of both parties; and the boundary has been left in 
its former place. An opening through the woods, like 
a road, marks the place, about half a mile north of the 
fort. 

A committee of Congress has proposed to the United 
States, to purchase land here, and open a canal to St. 
Regis on the St. Lawrence. The lowest summit level 
en American ground, would be 960 feet above Lake 
Champlain. 

The country hereabouts is very uninteresting : for the 
level country has begun which extends far into Canada. 
The appearance of the banks is quite uniform ; they be- 
ing low, and in many places almost overflown by the wa- 
ters of the lake. 

Isle aux Noix, 11 ntiles. 

This is the English frontier post, and has been chosen 
with judgment ; as although tlie ground is of hardly any 
elevation, it is higher than any in the neighbourhood ; 



looks a part of Canada, New-York and Now-Hampshire, to 
the Whiff. JVIoiintaiTi.s. 




BonteniZle/'M^^^ 



Centred our 



Si J. I 



SVM arks'." 



S. JoSie^^^'; 
l.^tfi'i-airie / y'O 

I ) orjcKester ■'.'I 

SM Johns V\ I ''■^ 
O 



-"*• r^^^- 



I.Ldcadie •* 



.ST. John's. 183 

and the island is so situated as partly to occupy the 
channel, and entirely to command it. 

There is a long M^all and battery on the south side, 
with angles ; beyond which are seen a large stone build- 
ing', and the roofs of others on the loft and right of it, 
forming the store houses, Szc. of the post. The channel 
is on. the east side, and very narrow, faced for a consider- 
able distance by another battery. Sentries are posted in 
diflerent places. The ship yard succeeds, and the offi- 
cers' quarters, generally neat, one-story buildings, with 
little gardens tastefully laid out. Here is a landing place 
in the Chinese style. A large stockaded building, which 
is the hospital, succeeds, with a large arch raised on the 
shore, bearing the royal crown. The little cabins are the 
soldiers' quarters, and some of them are neat, and orna- 
mented with flowers. 

The expedition against Canada, in 1775, consisted of 
two divisions : one of 3000 New-England New- York sol- 
diers, under Gejicrals Schuyler and Montgomery, pro- 
ceeded down Lake Champlain in rafts, from Ticondero- 
ga and Crown Point, and took position at Isle aux Noix. 
The other, which was planned and despatched subse- 
quently, consisted of a large body, under Gen. Arnold, 
iind proceeded tluough the wilderness, in tlie District of 
Maine, for Quebec. Tiie former division, after a little 
delay, proceeded to St. John's. They afterwards form- 
ed at this place a chevaux de frieze in the river. 

Beyond, the shores continue low and uninteresting, 
with numerous cabins of settlers near the water, the fo- 
rest encroaching to within a short distance behind, 

St. John's, 10 tuilrs. 

Here the steam boat stops, at the head of the rapids, 
and at the end of navigation. Stage coaches are some- 
times kept in readiness to take the passengers directly on 
their way to Montreal : (16 miles by land ; and 9 by wa- 
ter on the St. Lawrence, in a steam boat.) But the ar- 
rangements are sometimes different, and it has even been 
Ihe custom often to spend a night in this place. The 



184 ST. JOii.N s. 

stao;e house, on the left hand, about a quarter of a nnif 
up the main street, is in some respects an excellent 
house. 

The village presents nothing worthy of particular at- 
tention, except as the scene of some military deeds, con- 
nected with the expedition of Gen. Montgomery against 
this country. While the continental troops were station- 
ed at Isle aux Noix, in 1775, Generals Montgomery and 
Schuyler invested the fort, wliich contained a garrison of 
5 or 600 troops, beside 200 Canadians, and was com- 
manded by Major Preston. The siege lasted 6 weeks, 
and they did not cajjitulate till some time after the sur- 
render of Chambly, nor till the Americans had brought 
their trenches to the walls of the fort. They then ob- 
tained possession of 17 brass pieces, 22 iron, 7 mortars, 
with balls, bombs, &:c. &Lc. 

The Canadian money is different from that of tlie 
United States; but in consequence of the contirmal in- 
tercourse, the latter passes currently. Nine sous or cop- 
pers, (which are of various and sometimes curious 
stamps,) equal six cents. 2 sous nearly Id. and 20 ccnt^j 
a shilling. 

The pleasantest road from St. Johns to Montreal, is 
by Chambly, and Longueil, (for which, see Index.) 

Leaving St. John\s for Montreal, by Laprairie, (the 
stage route.) the road passes about a mile along tlic wes- 
tern shore of the River Richelieu, which sometimes 
takes the names of St. John's and Sorel, in consequence 
of its running by those towns. Several mountains arc 
in sight, as Beloeil, Boucherville,&c. 

The Rapids may be regarded as a specimen, on a 
small scale, of the numerous rapids in the St. Law- 
rence, which will hereafter excite tl)e interest, if not 
the apprehension of the stranger. Tiie bed of the Ri- 
chelieu has a rapid descent in several places, wiiere it 
comes immediately under observation, and becomes so 
shallow as to be passable for the flattest boats oidy dur- 
ing the floods. In the sunuiior it is generally only a 
few inches deep, and the surface broken by nunjerous 
stones of all sizes, and hero and th^^re bv little water- 



falls near Uio t<liorc. At tJie same time tlie banks are 
low and flat ; the houses of one tioor, whitewashed, and 
built at nearly equal distances, facing- the river ; and, in 
sliort, tlie general character of a scene on the St. Law- 
rence, may be imag-ined from a view here, by making 
allowance for its size and fertility. 

It has been proposed to make a canal to the St. Law- 
rence ; but it is said that the channel of the St. John's 
might be improved, by stone walls to confine the water 
over these rapids. The Chambly rapids might be pass- 
ed by a short canal ; and the only remaining obstructions 
till those at the mouth are at St. Therese and Mille 
Roches. 

The inhabitants, out of the town, immediately assume- 
the aspect of foreigners, in dress, countenance, mannerw, 
customs, and language. Their fashions are antique, 
and many of them have not been changed for ages : the 
men wear the Canadian jacket, cap, or hat, red sash, 
and moccasin of rough leather. The women work la- 
boriously in the field, and all of them speak French, 
generally without knowing a word of any other lan- 
guage. The farms will be observed, laid out in strips of 
1 or 200 acres, flat, broad, and 1, 2, or even 3 miles in 
length ; and the system of farming is extremely bad, as 
will be discovered at once, by the acres that are con- 
signed to the useless and destructive little Canada Thisf- 
tle. There is no such thing known here as the doctrine 
of a rotation of crops, and land is recovered to fertility 
by lying fallow, except that lately the use of manure 
has begun to be resorted to in a small degree. The 
horses arc of a small breed, well known in the northern 
states, by the name of the country. They are small and 
slow, but powerful and hardy. Many of them are dri- 
ven across the line, and large horses introduced into the 
towns in return. The value of a common Canadian 
horse is about $'40 ; and of a good one, 160. 

There is very little to be seen on this road to in- 
terest the traveller, except the novelty of what he ob- 
serves. The landscape is unvarying : the inhabitants 
us well as the soil are poor, and tliere is nothing that 



y^a KOUTJi TO CANADA, 

deserves even the name of a village. We pass a house now 
and then, dignified by a tall pole or mast raised in front 
of it, which is a smgular mark of distinction conceded 
to officers of militia, and usually adopted by those of 
the lowest grades. 

The people appear very happy, and Jiave healthy 
countenances, inclining to round faces and thick lips. 
Many of them show the uppei- front teeth when silent ; 
and their aspect, although oftentimes shrewd, denotes a 
want of education, Aviuch is the real cause of the back- 
ward condition of society in Canada. They are all 
Catholics ; and the churches seen here and there upon 
the road, are devoted to the service of the Romish 
church. One large church, lately built of gray stone, 
will be seen on the south side of the road. 

It has been suggested that a railroad might be advan- 
tageously constructed from St. John's to Lapraire. 

The Half Way House 

is dirty and disagreeable ; but the inhabitants under- 
stand English, and it is generally stopped at only a few 
minutes. The land is divided in some places by ditches 
round the farms ; and there are the channels of several 
timall streams which cross the road. One of these is 
passed on a bridge, just east of the stopping place. 

About i a mile beyond, are some barracks built for 
troops, during the late war. One of the most singular 
traits in the domestic arrangements of the Canadians, 
is building the oven not only out of doors, like the Dutch, 
but directly over the pig sty. 

The mountain from which the city of Montreal de- 
rived its name, and which rises immediately behind it, 
may be discovered at a great distance ; and the house 
of Mr. McTavish may be perceived, like a white spot, a 
little distance up its side. 

Some time before reaching the river, you pass an ex- 
tensive common, lying on the south side of the road, 
and then the town of 



lUVER ST. LAWKEiVCE. 18? 



Laprairie. 



Hotclikiss's inn, near the river, kept by a man from 
the United States. 

This is a large town, from which the steam boats 
Montreal and Edmund Henry cross several times a 
day, to Montreal, 9 miles. The place is built after the 
Canadian fashion; and very few of the inhabitants speak 
English. The streets are narrow, the houses low, and 
nothing- is to be seen worthy of particular notice, ex- 
cepting a nunnery and the church, both which may 
seem curious to persons who are not familiar with Catho- 
lic countries ; though of inferior interest to those of 
Montreal and Quebec. The nuns possess a large tract 
of land, nearly in the centre of the town, which is sur- 
rounded by a high wall : and they devote their time to 
the care of the sick, and the education of girls. 

The view of Montreal from the wharf is uninterrupt- 
ed. The city is distinguished at the distance of 9 
miles, by its thick mass of buildings, roofed with sheets 
of tin, and overtopped by church spires, shining with 
the same tnetal. Behind it rises a fine mountain, spotted 
with orchards; on the right, down the St. Lawrence, is 
the fortified island of St. Helen ; and on the left, that 
of the Nuns, and several smaller ones at a distance, 
through which are seen the sheets of white foam caused 
by the rapids. The shores are low and perfectly flat in 
every direction ; which, with the wide expanse of wa- 
ter, gives an aspect of tiresome monotony and exten- 
sion to the scene. At a great distance up are seen Isle 
Heron and others. Uniformity will be found character- 
istic of almost the whole voyage to Quebec. 

The current of the river will appear extremely rapid, 
particularly near those parts where the surface is broken 
by rocks ; but the steam boats are supplied with engines 
comparatively powerful, and are able to effect the pas- 
sage with facility and in safety. An hour is generally 
spent in going, and from li to 3 in returning. It is im- 
possible, however, for any boat to go through the cur- 



188 MONTREAL. 

rent without being borne rapidly down in some places ; 
and there is a part of the river near the middle, where 
the water is clear, and the rocks are easily seen on the 
bottom, as the boats glide on above them. In returning-, 
the boats sometimes pass between two rocks, near the 
rapids, that on the east being under water. Here the 
river is much agitated, and sometimes throws the water 
on deck without any danger. 

A particular description of the various objects in 
Montreal, and the vicinity, will be postponed for the 
present ; and it is necessary here to mention only the 
more prominent objects which strike the eye on the ap- 
proach. 

A large tinned roof on the left, with a small steeple, 
belongs to the convent of Gray Nuns ; further back is 
the Recollet church ; then the French Parish church, 
near which is seen the roof of the Great Cathedral. The 
English Episcopal church has a tall pyramidal spire ; 
and that which rises farther to the right, and near the 
sshore, is the church of Bon-secours. From some pla- 
ces may be seen the top of Nelson's monument, with 
several other remarkable objects, particularly the bar- 
racks, on the right, behind the remnant of the old city 
Avail. 

MONTREAL. 

Inns. Masonic Hall,* at the nortli end of the city, 
with a piazza over the bank : Goodenough's, St. Paul's- 
street ; Mansion House, do. These are all large houses, 
and porters will be found on the shore belonging to 
each, who will convey the luggage, and show the way. 



* The Masonic Hall is the most expensive hotel in Mon- 
treal. It is kept by Mr. Riasco, an Italian, and has a restau- 
rant in the French fashion, where the stranger may select his 
dinner from a long bdl of fare. The highest rate of board, 
including private parlour, &.c. is \l. 5s. per day. The main 
buildiiia: is 4 stories hiarh, and the two wino^s 3. 



MONTREAL. 189 

The landing- place is unpleasant, and the stranger 
may be struck with the narrowness of the streets, the 
lowness, and heavy aspect of the houses, which are of 
stone or plastered to resemble it : but all this is in con- 
formity with the fashion of the country ; and Montreal 
contains many fine buildings and other objects worthy 
of notice, together with a vicinity which in the warm 
season of the year is truly delightful. 

Those who remain but a short time in this city, may 
easily pay a hasty visit to the principal objects of curi- 
osity ; and are recommended to take a walk through 
the two principal streets, and to notice the following 
buildings and places. 

At the north end of St. PauFs-street are the Barracks. 
Just above the Masonic Hall, is the French church of 
Bon-secours, which, like the other Canadian religious 
buildings generally, is formed much on the plan of those 
in France. The roofs are, however, generally covered 
with tin, which is not much used in other countries. 
This is near the northern limit of Montreal, beyond 
which begins the Quebec suburb. 

Masonic Hall., on the eastern side of the street. 

Theatre^ adjoining the Masonic Hall. 

Market Place and JVelsons Monument. Then fol- 
lows a double row of shops. On the east side are 
several, which show articles of Indian manufacture for 
sale. These, however, had better be bought at the nun- 
neries, if it is intended to visit them. 

The Black JVii/ts' Garden.^ Convent.^ and Chapel^ are 
on the west side of the street. The wall is very higli. 
The porter at the gate will give admission and direc- 
tions, but in French. Visiters are expected to purchase 
a few articles of nuns', or Indian manufactuic. It is 
most agreeable to go in parties. 

The JVeiv Cathedral and Old Parish Church are close 
by : a short street leads to them, west. 

The New Cathehral 

is probably the largest church in North America, unless 



190 MONTREAL. 

exceptions are to be made in favour of Mexico. This 
edifice is at present partly concealed by the old Cathe- 
dral, which is to be removed on its completion, to leave 
the front open to a large square : the Place Cf Amies. It 
was commenced in 1825, and the walls were raised and 
the roof partly finished at the close of 1827. Mr. 
O'Donnell, the architect employed in superintending' the 
work, gave the plan, which is partly copied from some 
of the European models of the 13th, 14th and 15th cen- 
turies. It is of the plainest style that can bear the 
name of Gothic : an exuberance or ornament being in- 
consistent with a climate so severe as that of Canada. 

It is 255 feet long from west to east, and 134 feet 
wide. It was designed to have six quadrangular tow- 
ers, each 200 feet high : 3 on each flank, and 2 at each 
end. The curtain, or space between the front towers is 
73 feet by 119, and has parapets. There are 5 public 
entrances and 3 private to the first floor, and 4 to the 
galleries. The building can contain 10,000 persons, which 
number may assemble and disperse in a few minute>s. 
The eastern window over the high altar is 32 by 64 feet, 
and is to be divided by shafts and mullions for stained 
glass. The ceiling will be 80 feet high, groined and partly 
supported by a double range of grouped cokumis, inter- 
.sected by rails. 

There are to be 7 altars. The floor rises gradually 
from the entrance to the high altar. The house is to 
be warmed by heated air from stoves under the floor. 
The exterior is faced with he\vn stone, from the moun- 
tain. A promenade 75 feet by 25, elevated more than 100 
feet between the towns will command a Jiobie view. 

Goodenotjgh's Hotel is on the west side, in a court 
yard. — Further on, a street on the opposite side brings 
you in sight of the 

Gray J^un''s Convent.^ a large stone building, partly 
new, about 410 feet in length. 

Mansion House Hotel, St. Paul's-street, below an 
open square. 

(The Canal to Lachine begins on the river shore, 
nearly against here.) 



MONTREAL. 191 

The Seminary (La Scminaire) i<? an antique build-, 
ing, and contains a Catholic library of about 6000 vo- 
lumes ; but access to it is not very easily ol)tained. Tho 
College in this city was built by money supplied from 
the funds of this institution. 

The College is a large building of stone, three sto- 
ries high, erected in 1819 out of the funds of the 
" Seminary." It has a front of about 150 feet, with 
wings projecting in front and rear, which make the 
whole length about 220 feet. It has a spacious yard on 
the south side, for a play ground, succeeded by a fine 
garden ; and a little brook passes in the rear, which is 
made very useful. In order to guard against fire, there 
is scarcely any wood used in the construction ; and 
large iron doors are hung in the passages in such a man- 
ner that by shutting them the whole building may be 
divided into three parts, eacli fire-proof. 

It contains about 300 students, who are divided into 
o classes, to each of which is devoted a year, with the 
exception of the two last, which occupy but 6 months 
apiece, so that the whole course of instruction is finish- 
ed in 7 years. Many of the pupils, however, leave tho 
institution before completing the course. 

TJie Chapel is in the south wing ; and the rest of the 
building is divided into recitation rooms, and bed rooms, 
the former of which are hung with maps and religious 
pictures, and the latter supplied with crosses and fonts. 
Every thing is very plain in tlie furniture. The price 
of instruction is about eighty dollars per year, and some 
of the pupils have allowances made them ; particularly 
those designed for the Church, who assist in instruction 
by day, and study by night. There is a preparatory 
School connected w^ith the College. One of the in- 
structers always oversees th?. boys in their recreations. 

Returning to the square, and entering another princi- 
pal street running parallel to St. Paul's, you pass nume- 
rous respectable and some elegant dwellings, leaving the 
Parish Church and the new Cathredal on the east. 

The Wesleyav. Chapel. The American' Congt!Ega= 
R 2 



1)A2 MONTREAL. 

TiONAL, and the English Episcopal Churches are pasj^- 
ed on this side of th<' town. 

The Court House is large, but old ; and in the rear 
gf it is 

The Parade^ a handsome piece of ground, with a 
walk, where the troops arc drilled every morning, gen- 
erally at 10 o'clock. There is commonly but a small 
number of soldiers in the city, during peace; and in 
1825, a single regiment garrisoned Montreal and the 
other posts in the neighbourhood towai'ds the United 
States. 

The Brilish and Canadian School Socicly established 
schools on the British system in Montreal, in Sept. 1 822. 
In Sept. 1825, there had been admitted 1706 boys, and 
444 girls, most of whom were of the poorer class, it is 
supported by voluntary subscriptions. Nine hundred 
pounds, the remainder of a large sum collected in Eng- 
land for the instruction of Indians not otherwise instruct- 
ed, is in the hands of this society, to be hereafter devot- 
ed to that object. 

There is a Lancasterian School of several hundred 
scholars, where some of the most influential Canadians, 
Catholics, having become aware of the value of educa- 
tion, have placed themselves on the committee. There 
is an Episcopal School on BelFs system. 

The priests in Canada have begun to educate in self 
defence. The schools provided for by government, are 
restricted to masters of tlie English church ; and a con- 
siderable number of school houses have been erected, 
but almost confined to the townships. 

Island of St. Helen, or Grant's Island. 

This has recently been purchased by the British 
government, for a military position and depot. It is 
principally covered with trees ; but has a beautiful gar- 
den behind the quarters of the officers ; and a fine road 
winding round from tiie landing ])lace, on the south end, 
(where are soine remains of old works, and a new bat- 
tery,) to a rocky eminence over the arsenal, wliich is op- 



.•VIO.NTREAL MOrNTAI.V. 193 

posite the northern quarter of the town. This rock is 
about 11 feet hi;^her than the most elevated parts of the 
city ; and the view from it is handsome, with a wild 
ravine just below. 

The arsenal and store houses form three buildings, 
with a narrow yard between them, about 12.5 feet in 
length. The batteries range on the river and town, and 
are furnished with neat barracks, a magazine, &;c. 



The Mountain of Montreal, 



the summit of which is to be the site of an impregnable 
CitadeU offers an extensive and delightful view, and should 
by no means be forgotten by tliose v/ho have an oppor- 
tunity to undertake the excursion. It is better calculated 
to atiord an idea of the country, as well as to delight 
the eye, than any other excursion which can be made. 
Yet it is recommended, if the traveller stays long enough, 
to take a ride or two in different directions, after having 
visited this favourite spot. 

There are three ways of reaching the summit of the 
mountain : on foot^ by an intricate route from the south- 
ern part of the city ; on horseback^ or in a carriuire^ to 
the ridge ; or round the north end to the rear. There 
is also a foot path up the north end. A private road 
turns off from the southern road on the ridge, passing- 
through a gate. 

Heretofore the only good point of view has been from 
a rock above McTavish's house, whence a very steep 
path leads directly down. 

The country spread out to view on arriving at this 
commanding height, is a plain of such vast extent as to 
appear in many directions quite boundless. In fact, it 
stretclies much farther than would be imagined ; for all 
the way to Quebec, the river's banks present the same 
appearance. 

The spectator faces the east. The side of the moun- 
tain, almost precipitous, is thickly covered with trees, 



194 ROUTE IN CANADA. 

which soon give place below to a smooth descent, declin- 
ing to the base, chiefly devoted to pasturage, on the el- 
evation of which stands M'Tavish's house. A beautiful 
display of cultivated fields succeeds on the level, divided 
by high palings, and scattered with a few houses. Be- 
low a moderate descent, which appears like an old bank 
of the river, gardens and dwellings begin to increase ; 
and behind a succeeding one, of a similar description are 
suburbs. 

East^ on the horizon, is Boucherville Mountain ; and 
over it is seen more indistinctly, Beloeil Mountain. The 
plain country between the Sorel and St. Lawrence is di- 
vided into innumerable fields, with scattering liouses. 
In the same direction is seen St. Helen's, or Grant's Is- 
land ; and in a direction with the south end of it, the 
steeple of Bon-secour church. North of this are the 
Quebec suburhs, -beginning near the barracks; tjie Water 
works, and B iihs. Nearer, are seen St. Louis and St. 
Lawrence suburbs. 

S. S. East, on the opposite sliore. La Prairie ; and 
nearly over it, the site of St. .lohn's which is not distin- 
guishable. In a range with them, is Nuns' Island, and 
Nuns' Farm, the latter on this shore. The river is 3-§ 
miles wide. The suburbs on the south side of the city, 
are St. Antoine, Ricolet, St. Anne's, and St. Joseph's 
Distant Mountains. 

J^orfh. Bout de I'lsle, the extremity of Montreal Is- 
land, Pointe aux Trembles, and the village of Boucher- 
ville ; opposite which is Longueil, and further down, Va- 
rennes, with a two steepled church. 

.A'*. East, the view is boundless, with a succession of 
cultivated fields, which in tlie distance become quite un- 
distinguishable. The same appearance, it will hereaf- 
ter be seen, extends along the river's banks quite to 
Quebec. 

Road round the Mountain. The road near the 
north end of the mountain is ornamented with many 
beautiful seals, and there are also some extensive manu- 
factories. Behind it is a fine extent of cultivated ground. 



3I0NTREAL. 195 



Other ExcuusioxXs. 



To Lachine, 9 miles, or 3 leagues. The river road 
pleasantest : giving a view of the Rapids, Nuns' and He- 
ron Islands, the Indian village of Caughnawaga opposite, 
and crossing the Lachine Canal. At Lachine is a small 
house kept by an American. Crystals of axenite (carb. 
lime) were found in excavating the canal. The pebbles 
along the shore are the fragments of granite, while the 
black, or deep purple rocks which form the channel are 
lime stone, lying in strata nearly horizontal. 

To Pointt aux Trembles and Bout deVIsle. 

The southern road to the Mountam, which crosses it 
at the less elevated part of the ridge, near the middle, 
leads through St. Joseph's suburbs, and afterward passes 
a number of fine country seats. The most remarkable 
are those of Mr. M'Gillivray, and the late Mr. Gregory, 
members of the old North West Company, which has 
lately been converted into the Hudson's Bay Company. 
It engrossed the Indian trade for a vast distance up the 
lakes, and enriched many individuals, whose residences 
add materially to the appearance of the city and its en- 
virons. 

The Priests'' Farm is passed on the left, near the 
base of the mountain, and is a large tract of land, with 
an old building in the ancient European style, preserving 
many of the features of feudal days, with its projecting 
square towers, small windows, pointed roofs, and weather- 
beaten walls. The barns connected with it are very spa- 
cious, and seem capable of containing a large part of the 
products of the farm. The only wonder seems to be 
whal a few old men can do with such vast stores, as well 
as with their receipts from various other quarters. 

The whole island of Montreal is a Seigneurie, in which 
the monks of Ricolet, as Seigneurs, have the right of a 
tax on every farm, on every purchase and sale of real 
estate, and many other privileges, vested in them by the 
king of France on the first settlement of the place. Cir- 
cumstances have conspired to reduce and destroy many 



196 ROUTE IN CANADA. 

of these privileges, so that the annual income of the 
priests, from this rich and valuable Seigneurie, though 
large, is very trivial, in comparison with its extent and 
fertility. 

Col. Allen, with his detachment for the surprise of 
Montreal, in 1776, crossed the river from Longueil ; but 
Major Brown, not being able to land above the city as 
was intended, the former was taken prisoner by Gov. 
Carleton, after a sharp engagement, loaded with irons, 
and sent to England. Col. Warner afterwards erected 
batteries on the shore at Longueil, by which he drove 
back the governor when he attempted to land on his way 
to relieve St. .John's. 

The population of Montreal, by a census taken in 1825, 
was nearly 24,000 ; and 4 or 500 greater than that of 
Quebec. 

THE RIDEAU CANAL. 

This work, which is in progress at the expense of 
Great Britain, is to effect a navigable communication be- 
tween Lake Ontario and the Ottawa river. The object of 
it is to secure, in time of war, the transportation of mili- 
tary stores, &c. by an interior route, less exposed to the 
United States, and practicable in lake vessels of 125 tons. 
It is a great undertaking, and when completed, which 
will probably be in a few years, will afford a most inte- 
resting episcode to the travellers" tour. It will present 
a combination of fine natural objects and noble struc- 
tures of art. Those who have leisure, will be pleased 
with a view of some of the works in their unfinished 
state. Others may perhaps read with gratification a 
brief description of some of the principal objects on the 
route. A steam boat made her first voyage here in 
1828. 

At Merrick's Snie, are to be 3 locks of 8 feet lift ; and 
a dam, 7 feet high and 180 long, at the head of it, to lift 
the ilideau river into the Snie. Considerable excava- 
tions of earth and rock in the Snie. 

At Edmund's Rapids, a dam 8 feet high, and 400 long ; 



THE OTTAWA RIVER. 197 

and a lock of 6 feet lift. The excations, both earth and 
rock are considerable. Near Philip's at the same rapids, 
is another dam, 8 feet high and 250 long ; and a lock of 
6 feet lift. 

At the Old Slys, on the Rapids of Smith's Fall, is a 
dam IB feet liiijh and 210 long ; and two locks of 8 feet 
lift. 

At the First Rapids is a dam 9 feet in height and 250 
in length, with a lock of 7 feet lift. There are also an 
embankment of wood and clay, 2 miles long. 

At Chaifey's Mills, is a dam 20 feet high and 80 wide, 
with two locks of 9 feet lift. 

At Nicholson's Rapids is a dam 16 feet high and 240 
long; a lock of 10 feet lift, and an embankment 8 feet 
high and 280 in length. 

The stoiie was found convenient on the ground, and 
also, lime, wood and stone. . 

The Rideau Canal, will open to a navigable connex- 
ion a vast extent of country, and if extended beyond the 
Rideau Lake, would lead to the shores of lakes and ri- 
vers, as yet very imperfectly known, as indeed are those 
through which the canal already lies. The road from 
Kingston to Montreal, crosses the Rideau Canal at Tut- 
tle's hill, and a new village called Evergreen. 

Boats go from Montreal up the Grand River to the 
mouth of the Rideau, and the commencement of the ca- 
nal, by the La Chine and Grenville Canals. 

Bijloicn is situated at the junction of the Rideau and 
Ottawa ; it is 120 miles from Montreal, and 150 from 
Kingston, and is expected to become an important place 
from its situation. The Rideau received its French name 
from the beautiful cascade, like a white curtain, with 
which it descends 27 feet, into the Ottawa. North of 
the town the Ottawa is about a mile in breadth. It 
has a fall of 32 feet, and is diversified with numerous 
islands. Below the fall the water is very deep ; and the 
Rideau Canal here descends to it down a narrow cleft 
in a precipitous bank by eight locks of fine stone work, 
ten feet lift. The canal, on gaining the eminence, passes 



19o llOUTE IN CANADA. 

through the village, and opens upon a large beaver mea- 
dow of 2.50 acres, which receives a branch canal from 
Lake Chaudiere on the Ottawa, and will form a large 
basin for timber, A little south of the town is a moun- 
tainous ridge, through which the canal passes by a na- 
tural notch. The western part of the village is situated 
on high and commanding ground ; and a hospital and 
military barracks have been erected on the Cape, at an 
elevation of 200 feet above the river. This is capable of 
being rendered impregnable, and has attracted the atten- 
tion of English engineers. 

Bytown was a wilderness in 1826; and in 1827 con- 
tained 2000 inhabitants, with a market, school-house, 
and four churches built and building. It is likely to be- 
come a place of great trade, even in furs ; and there are 
mines of iron, lead and tin, and quarries of marble in the 
vicinity. 

The Great Ottawa Bridge. This is an immense struc- 
ture of bold design, and admirable workmanship. The 
two first arches on the Lower Canada side, are each 60 
feet span, and of stone, extending over the two channels 
on that side of the Kettle. Then follows a piece of 
wooden bridge, rising on trestles, which brings the tra- 
veller to an island, beyond which is a rapid and tumul- 
tuous current, called the Chaadiere Great Kettle. Over 
this an attempt was made, which was to be repeated, to 
throw a magnificent arch, of 220 feet span. Two arches 
cross the smaller channels on the other side. 

From the bridge a fine road had been opened in the 
upper province to the village. A wooden bridge on this 
road over a gulley is 114 feet span. 

Hull IS opposite Bytown, connected with it by the 
great Ottawa Bridge. This township belongs to Phile- 
mon Wright, Esq. an American farmer of great affluence 
and experience. His settlement, called Wrightstown, is 
seen from Bytown, oeing situated at the Falls. 



THE ST. JLAWREiNCE. 199 

Route from Montreal to Niagara. 

(For this rotite see pages 91 to 95.) 

ROUTE FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 

Road to Quebec. 

Notwithstanding- the common prejudices against tra- 
velling by iaiid in Canada, which are entertained by 
many persons not acquainted with the country, it is re- 
commended to those wlio may hnd it convenient, to 
make arrangements tor performing a part of the journey 
m this manner, either going or returning. 

The country is indeed a dead level, but it is entirely 
reduced to cultivation, thickly populated, and blessed 
with good roads. The way lies along the very margin 
of the St. Lawrence, passing an ahuost uninterrupted 
succession of dweihngs, and suppHed with many comfort- 
able and some good inns, which will be particularly men- 
tioned. 

As the strength of the current makes the passage of 
the steam boats up the river about 12 hours long'er than 
that down, it would on this account be better to return 
by land ; and thi^^ course would certainly be recommend- 
ed, but for the greater difficulty of obtaining good car- 
riages in Quebec, it is to be hoped that regular coaches 
will ere long be established to run between the two cities ; 
for at present, it is necessary to hire a caleche, or a stage 
coach, at a pretty high price. At Three Rivers, (Trois 
Rivieres,) SiJ miles, the traveller may dismiss his car- 
riage, and enter the steam boats, which regularly stop 
there up and down. 

Steam Boat to Quebec. 

Leaving Montreal in the steam boat, you pass under 
the fort on St. Helen's Island, the steeples and cupolas 
of the city being seen nearly in the following order bo- 



200 ROUTE TO QUEBEC. 

ginning at he south end ; Gray Nuns', Ricolet Churchy 
Black Nuns", New and Old Cathedrals, Episcopal Church, 
Nelson's Monument, Bon-secour Church. Near the last, 
on the shore, is the Masonic Hotel, then the Barracks, 
Water-works, and Baths, the beginning of the Quebec 
suburbs, the residences of Judge Reed and Mr. Malson, 
with terraced gardens towards the river, &c. A little 
below is Malson s Brewery, and Sir John Johnson's resi- 
dence, (a grandson of Sir William Johnson, for whom 
see page 47 in tlie Route to Niagara.) The house is of 
brick, with a piazza. 

The Rapids of St. Mary are between the island and 
these last mentioned objects, and run with such rapidity 
that steam boats are sometimes obliged to be drawn up 
by cattle a little distance. 

LoNGUEiL, just below St. Helen's. 

LoNGUE PoiNTE, 6 iiiiles (2 leagues) from Montreal. 

Vercheres, on the east side. 

Varennes has a church with double spire. 

PoiNTE Aux Trembles, 9 miles, (3 leagues.) Here 
is a nunnery, in which is a pretty large school for girls. 
There are two good inns in the place. 

Bout de LTsle. Here is no village, but only a 
ferry. 

CoNTR-EccEUR, ou the cast. 

Repentigny, a pretty village. 

At this place it is recommended to the traveller by 
land, to make a deviation from the direct road along 
the river, if he finds it convenient, to see the delightful 
country laetween it and the town of Assomption. There 
is a beautiful road on each bank, varied with houses 
and trees. Return so as to strike the road near St, 
Sulpice. 

St. Sulpice, 24 miles (8 leagues) from Montreal. 

La Moraye. 

Berthier. Here is an excellent inn, kept by a man 
from the United States, though his wife is a Canadian, 

Machiche is a pretty town, at the mouth of the Ri- 
\'iere du Loup, and has a very neat and comfortable inn, 
of the best Canadian stamp, and famous for many miles 






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TRADE OF THE ST. LAWRENCE. 201 

round. Many French customs are still jjreserved by 
the unmixed inhabitants of the St. Lawrence, some of 
which are agreeable and interesting. At many of the 
inns, the traveller will receive the most kind and hos- 
pitable attentions, and will find great gratification in ob- 
serving the handsome fiower gardens, as well as the neat 
arrangement of the furniture. At this house is a hand- 
some collection of green-house plants. 

There is very iittie variety to be discovered in the 
natural surface of the ground, but the journey through 
this region presents almost an unvarying scene of culti- 
vation and fertility. For a great part of the distance, 
there is a narrow strip of corn or potatoes between the 
road and the river's bank, to correspond with the fields 
which stretch off to such a distance on the other hand ; 
and the variety of crops, and the occasional rows and 
clumps of trees, remove, in a good degree, the natural 
sameness of the landscape. 

Navigation and Trade of the St. Lawrence, &;c. 

Steam boats are of the utmost importance on this great 
river, for they contribute extremely to the convenience 
and expedition of travelling, and render most valu- 
able assistance to commerce. There are many steam 
boats constantly employed between Montreal and 
Quebec, most of them fitted to accommodate passen- 
gers, as well as to carry frieght, and ail provided with 
powerful engines. The Hercules, however, which is 
devoted exclusively to tov/ing vessels, exceeds in power 
all the others, and uiay usually be met with in some 
part of the river, sometimes with three or four large 
brigs o;- schooners, fully laden, lashed on all sides of her, 
yet moving along with considerable velocity. The 
principal article of export from Canada is lumber, a 
great deal of which is carried to Quebec in immense 
rafts, and then shipped for England. These rafts have 
usually a great number of sails to hoist in a fair wind, 
with huts to shelter the men from the weather, so that 
they have a very singular appearance, and at a little dis- 



202 ROUTE TO Q.UEBEC. 

tance look like a fleet of sail boats. The population of 
Lower Canada is estimated at about 200,000. 

The French Canadians, notwithstanding the common 
prejudices against them, appear, on acquaintance, to be 
an intelligent people. They certainly are amiable, 
cheerful, and gay, and their backwardness in improve- 
ments is attributable to the system under which they 
live. They are generally brought up in great ignorance, 
and they are taught to dislike and avoid not only the 
Protestant principles, but Protestants themselves. The 
author has the word of one of their priests for stating, 
that not more than one-sixth of the population are ever 
taught to read or write. In New-England, as is well 
known, the law provides for the instruction of every 
child, without exception : and every child is actually in- 
structed. Books and newspapers, therefore, lose their 
effect as well as their value among these people. The 
British government have encouraged schools here, but 
until lately, almost without success. Among those re- 
gions where English and Scotch have settled, instruction 
is gaining ground ; and in Montreal, the public schools 
are rising in importance : but it is to be feared that the 
Catholic priests will long continue to oppose the exten- 
sion of real knowledge, and that while ihey retain their 
influence, the character of the people will remain de- 



The " Procedure^'' of Canada is founded on the edict 
of Louis 14th, of 1667, and is the basis of the Civil 
Code. There were no lawyers before the Conquest in 
1739, when they were created ; and niartial law pre- 
vailed from that time till 1774. The trial by Jury was 
introduced in 171>3 ; and the Constitutional Charter in 
1791. 

There are many signs of prosperity exhibited by the 
farmers between Montreal and Three Rivers, in the 
extension or erection of buildings. On each farm 
is usually to be seen about half an acre of Indian 
corn, which will furnish 18 or 20 bushels, and it is 
the custom not to build fences, tiie cattle being kept 



TOWN OF SOUHL. 203 

from tlie land, and fed on weeds until the crops 
are off. 

The houses are generally of one story, and are built 
of wood or stone, according to the nature of the coun- 
try. Some of them are formed of squared timbers, and 
even of round logs ; but the latter are usually employed 
for the construction of barns only, which are often 
covered with thatch. The houses and barns ar« fre- 
quently composed of several small buildings, erected at 
different periods, according to the capacity or necessities 
of the propuetors. 

William Hei\rv, or Sorel, 
45 miles ^ or 15 leagues from Montreal. 

This town, though quite small, is one of the principal 
places between the two capitals. It is on the south side 
of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of the Sorel, or 
Richelieu, in a very sandy situation ; and contains 
nothing worthy of notice except a little old church, a 
palisadoed fort, and a neat little square, at the distance 
of a short walk, surrounded with several pretty white 
houses, a church, &c. a little in the New-England style. 
The fences are generally low, and afford the sight of 
gardens. 

The flowers which abound in the Canadian gardens 
are principally roses, carnations, swc^t-williams, can- 
didus, monthly roses, (blossoming only a part of the 
year.) 

As the steam boats usually stop here half an hour or 
more, there is time enough to go on shore. The popula- 
tion principally consists of disbanded soldiers, so that 
the dwellings are generally poor, and most of the peo- 
ple speak some dialect of English. The garrison con- 
tains only 30 or 40 men in time of peace, and the com- 
manding officer has a pretty residence opposite the 
town, where the fields have a green and fertile appear- 
ance. 

The Government House stands about three quarters 
of a mile beyond the town. It is a large red building. 



204 ROUTE TO aUEBEC. 

with barracks near it. The boat turns round on leaving 
Sorel, and returns to the St. Lawrence, the distant land 
beginning to have some elevation. 

On the opposite point, Gen. Montgomery erected bat- 
teries on taking the place, in 1776, and prepared rafts 
and floating batteries, which maintained an engage- 
ment with the ships in which Gov. Carleton attempted 
to escape to Quebec, and drove him back towards Mon- 
treal. He afterwards passed them in an open boat at 
night ; but his vessels fell into the hands of the Ameri- 
cans. 

Berthier is on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence, 
but out of sight, being behind several low islands. Some 
of the steam boats stop there instead of at Sorel. There 
is a ferry across. 

Lake St. Peter. 

On entering this large tract of water, the shores at 
the opposite end appear like mere lines upon the hori- 
zon, the land being still so flat near the river as to seem 
hardly sufficient to prevent it from overflowing. A ves- 
sel at the opposite end appears like a mere speck, the 
length of the lake being 20 miles. 

PoiNTE Du Lac, or Woodlands, is seen on the north- 
ern shore, when nearly across ; but it is situated beyond 
the lake. A ridge of high land continues on the north, 
following the course of the river.. 

Opposite Woodlands is Nicoeet, 9 miles from Three 
Rivers. The place is large, and contains an English 
and a French church, together with a nunnery, and a 
college, founded by the Catholic bishop of Quebec. 

Three Rivers, [Trois Rivieres,] Half way. 

This is the largest town between Montreal and Que- 
bec, and is 96 miles from the former, and 84 from the 
latter. The streets are generally straight, and regularly 
built, though narrow ; and the houses, allhougji neat, 
are generally only one or two stories high, with win- 



RAPIDS OF RICHELIEU. 205 

dows in the roofs, and being principally plastered, have 
rather a dark aspect, like those of iNIontreal. It con- 
tains shops of various sorts, and several inns of a de- 
cent appearance. 

The Nvmnery is in the east part of the town, and has 
extenbive grounds connected with it. 

The Chapel of the Convent has a number of pictures, 
of whirh the one on the right of the main altar is the 
best : Magdalen weeping. The Parish ("hurch is in the 
south part of the town. Two large buildings, formerly 
the Court House and Jail, with the Nunnery, are the 
principal objects. 

While the American forces were on the retreat from 
Quebec in 1775, Gen, Sullivan sent Gen. Thompson 
down from Sorel to attack this place. He went down 
the right bank of Lake St. Peter, and landed 9 miles 
from the town ; but being discovered and misled, he 
found Gen. Frazer drawn up in order of battle, while 
Gen. Neshit was sent to cut off his retreat ; and the 
battle, which immediately commenced, was short and 
disastrous to the assailants, who lost their commander, 
and many officers and soldiers, as prisoners, although 
they had few killed. After several hours we approach 

Le Bigneux, a village on the south side of the river, 
known by its double-spired church. It stands on a steep 
bank, about 60 feet high, and marks the commencement 
of the Richelieu rapids. 

The river here winds between broken banks, and the 
number of cottages is so great as to make the scene 
more animating. A few blue, but not lofty mountains, 
are seen down the river. 

Rapids of Richelieu. 

The river, which is about two miles wide, here runs 
with great velocity, particularly the first three miles ; 
but the water is deep, and the surface unbroken, except 
near the shores, which are lined with innumerable loose 
round stones and rocks, e.xti-emely dangerous to vessels 
when they get among them. These rocks seem placed 



206 ilOUTE TO aUEBEC. 

with much regularity, forming two ranges, and making 
the water appear as if it had a gradual swell from both 
sides to the middle of the river. Although the naviga- 
tion of this part of the St. Lawrence requires great 
skill and caution in other vessels, steam boats pass with 
security ; yet, on account of tlie force of the current at 
ebb tide, even they are obliged to vary their hours of 
leaving Quebec, in such a way as to have the flood 
through the rapids. Vessels are often seen waiting at 
the bottom of the rapids for a change of tide, or for a 
steam boat to tow them up. The rapids extend about 
nine miles, 

St. Antoine, on the south bank, is 18 miles (6 
leagues) from Quebec. The mouj^tain seen towards the 
north-east is that of Lorette, and the bank on that side 
makes a beautiful slope to the river, agreeably varied by 
cultivated fields, interrupted by occasional patches of 
wood land : on the side of the ridge, about midway 
from the water to the top, passes the road. The south 
shore, on the contrary, continues high and abrupt and 
nearly perpendicular, with innumerable cottages peeping 
over the brow. 

PoiNTE Aux Trembles, a village on the north shore. 
The river is about the same breadth all along here, viz. 
about two miles, although it appears much narrower ; 
the depth is about five fathoms, and the tide rises 14 or 
15 feet. Notwithstanding the thickness of the popula- 
tion on the shores, the country is a wilderness only about 
four miles back, being comprehended in what is called 
the King's Hunting Ground^ which extends from Three 
Rivers, 40 or 50 miles below this place. 

Jacques Cartier, 30 miles from Quebec. This is a 
village on the north side, situated at rhe mouth of the 
river of the same name, wliich is likewise distinguished 
by the name of the first explorer of the river St. Law- 
rence. Here are the remains of the first church in Canada. 

Carouge Creek, on the north side. Here a pretty 
view opens, for a few minutes, into the interior, on the 



GExXERAL MONTGOMERY. 207 

north shore, showing the Indian village of Lorelte, at the 
distance of three or four miles, with an extent of beauti- 
ful land, and a range of fine n.'ountains in the rear. 

Chaldiere River is a little below, with a rock on 
the lower side, at its mouth. 

Lookmg down the St. Lawrence, part of Point I-evi is 
seen, covered with white buildings, one of which is the 
church. It is opposite Quebec, which remains for a con- 
siderable distance invisible. The banks rise to a greater 
and greater height, and present every variety of puriace. 

Sillery Cove is a mile below, above which was 
fought the final battle between the English and Irench 
in 1759, after the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe, 
which conipleted the conquest of Canada. At the vil- 
lage are the remains of the first church ever built in 
Canada. 

Wolfe's Cove is behind the next point. This is the 
place where W olfe landed in the night, and up the preci- 
pitous bank he climbed with his troops, afterwards draw- 
ing up his cannon. Here Gen. Arnold afterwards took 
up his troops, in 1755. There is a remarkable rock pro- 
jecting from the bank, at the head ot the cove, a little to 
the right of which is seen a road running up the hill, at 
the place where the troops went up, when there was 
nothing but a foot path. The spot is about a quarter of 
a mile west of a large yellow house above the bank. 

Cape Diamond is the abrupt bluff in which terminates 
the high land on the north, and under the opposite side 
of which Quebec is situated. ' It is 348 feet high ; and 
the fortified lines on its brow belong to the city walls, 
and the citadel, which is included by them. The tele- 
graph is raised on the Cavaliers' Batter}-, and the round 
buildings on the ridge are Martello towers, which serve as 
advanced works to the fortress. The opposite point is 
Point Levi ; and the mountains of 67. Anne and Tourmente 
appear many miles down the river. 

General Montgomery was killed just at the base of 
Cape Diamond, in attacking- a block house on the shore, 
in 1775. 



2Uw aUEBEC. 

QUEBEC. 

The Lower Town of Quebec begins near this spot, 
and stretches along at the foot of the rock, while the IJp- 
per Town soon begins to open to view above, though the 
principal part of it is on the top and the opposite side. 

The Castle of St. Louis, or the Governor's House, 
overhangs the precipice, being built on supporters ; and 
makes a conspicuous appearance, interrupting the city 
wall, which encloses the Upper Town. 

But the current is too swift to allow much time for 
observation before arriving a1 the wharf, where the tra- 
veller will find servants in waiting from the principal pub- 
lic houses m the city : these are all in the Upper Town, 
the ascent to which is intricate as well as steep and la- 
borious, so that the stranger will want their assistance 
as guides. 

Inns. Union Hotel, near the Esplanade. 

Mr. Lemoine's Boarding House. 

Malhiot's,41 St. Johns-Street. 

La Fontaine's, Opposite. 

The Lower Town is crowded and dirty, and contains 
no decent public houses. After three or four turns, you 
begin to ascend Mountain-street, which is very steep and 
laborious, and leads to a gate in the city wall, wh;ch is 
very massive, built in the old European style, of solid 
stone, very thick, witli narrov/ passage ways for carria- 
ges and footmen, and a guard chamber above, with loop- 
holes for musketeers. On the right, after passing this 
gate, is a battery of heavy guns ; and the road in that 
direction, by the city wall, coiiducts to within a few steps 
of Mr. Lemoine's. On the contrary., to go to the other 
houses mentioned, it is necessary to follow the street 
which opens a little to the left, and leads into the midst 
of the city. 

The reason why good inns and boarding houses are so 
scarce in Quebec, is that during the greater part of the 
year there are few strangers here, except such as come 
from the neighbouring parts of the country, and those 
not generally of the higher orders of society. 



CHAPEL Of THE SEMINARY. 209 

A walk to the Et^planade, in the highest part of the 
city, by the wall, is very delightful at morning or eve- 
ning, as it commands a fine view : but Cape Diamond 
the finest of all. 

It is recommended to the stranger to seize the first 
pleasant days to make excursions to the Falls of Mont- 
morency, the village of Lorette, &c. which will be more 
particularly spoken of hereafter ; and it will be found 
much better, on several accounts, to set out as early in 
the morning as possible. 

The walls of Qui bee enclose the upper part of the hill, 
and a little of its declivity on the north side ; but the 
space is so small that the buildings are extremely crowd- 
ed together, and the streets are as closely built as in the 
largest cities. Very few of the private houses present 
any thing remarkable, but there are many public build- 
ings worthy of particular attention. Population in 1825, 
about 22,000. 

The French Parish Church stands on one side of the 
public square, facing the barracks, with the seminary on 
one side. The church contains little that is remarkable, 
the whole interior appearing rather ordinary, and the 
pictures having little to boast of : the principal of them 
are a Holy Family, an Ascension, Crucifixion, Descent of 
Tongues, and Last Supper. 

The College, which stands a little to the right in 
coming out of the church, is a large stone building in 
which a considerable number of youth are educated by 
priests, and may be distinguished in the city by wearing 
the long black gown, sash, and cornered cap, common to 
such institutions in Catholic countries. 

The Chapel of the Su7ii7iari/^ which stands a little left 
from the principal gate, contains the best collection of 
pictures, it is said, in all Canada : beginning on the right 
hand near the door, is a picture of the Virgin Mary at- 
tended by angels, &c. ; in the first chapel on that side is a 
picture of the Crucifixion, over the altar ; on the right, 
the Baptism of the Elhiopian, John"s Baptism, St. John ; 
on the left, a portrait, St. Peter receiving the keys, infant 
Saviour, Devotees, &c. on the church wall, next is a good 



210 UUEBEC. 

picture unknown, then the Ascension, and Interment of 
the Saviour ; and over the high altar, a Holy Family, 
and Dove descending ; what appears to be some priest's 
dream ; on the left side, is the Descent of Tongues, and 
an Angel visiting a samt in prison, good; over the altar in 
the remaining chapel, is the Baptism in the Wilderness, 
with a number of poor pictures ; and in the church are an 
Evangelist, Wise Men presenting Gifts, &c. 

In two gilt boxes, one on each side of the high altar, 
are two skulls, with several human bones^ placed against 
red siik, which are regarded with superstitious reverence, 
as holy and perhaps miracuiou.i relics ; a lamp is kept 
constantly burning under tiiat on the left hand. 

Thu Barracks are in a large stone building opposite 
the church, whicn was formerly the Jesuits' College : it 
is three and four stones high, forming an angle like an^ 
L, eacii side of which is about 200 feet long. Here are 
quartered the troops which garrison the city ; they have 
heretofore consisted of two regiments of infantry, two 
companies of artillery, and one of sappers and miners. 

Concents. There are two convents in Quebec ; one of 
them has about 40 Ursulines., who have a large convent 
and ciiurch near the pnson, in the west part of the city, 
and keep a large school for girls. The other convent is 
lower down, and contains an iiospital for diseases of the 
lighter kinds; while the most serioas andsevere are treat- 
ed at tiie nanner}' near the St. Charles s River, about 1^ 
miles above the town. These institutions, however, are 
not now open lo visiters as they formerly were ; at least 
it is generally impossioie to gain access to them. 

The Arsemd is naar the palace gate, and contains about 
100,000 stand of ar'ns, arranged with great regularity. 

The Castle of St. Louis is a large Duiidmg, but makes 
a less imposing appearance than when seen from the wa- 
ter. The street beyond commands a fine view ; and 
there are several beautiful tei-raced gardens formed on 
the steep side of the rock, almost overhanging the build- 
ings in the lower town. 

^he fortifications of the city on tlie land side are 
strong, and worthy of particular attention ; as before re- 



THE ESPLANADE. 211 

marked, they may be examined with interest by taking 
a walk in that direction, in the morning or evening. 

St. Louis's Gate is the highest of the city gates, and 
the street of the same name conducts to it ; this leads to 
the famous Plains of Abraham. The monument to Wolfe 
and Montcalm will be erected in the Upper Garden. 

The Esplanade Battery lies between St, Louis and St. 
John's gates, and contains 12 cannon and 4 mortars, 
with magazines built where they could not be injured by 
an enemy's shot. The ground slopes in such a manner 
as to expose a large extent of country to viev.? : the fine 
fertile plain beyond St. Charles's River, the beautiful 
ridge of landsbeyond, with the villages of Lorette, Charle- 
boiirg and others ; the St. Lawrence on the right, with 
Point Levi, the Isle of Orleans, and the fine ranges 
of distant mountains. The mouth of the Montmorency 
can easily be discerned, on the left bank of the St. Law- 
rence, about 9 miles from the city ; that is the spot where 
the falls are to be seen, and the battle ground where 
Gen. Wolfe made an unsuccessful attack on the French 
General Dieskau, before the capture of the city. 

Mounting to the parapet near the gate of St. Louis, 
the plan of the defences may be in part discerned, even 
by an unpractised eye ; and by descending and passing 
through the gate, the strength of tlie place will be better 
understood. The walls of the city, the bastions, and 
other works, are from 20 to 30 feet in height, and form- 
ed of stone. The path is made to turn several abrupt 
angles, in order to expose the approach to raking fires. 
In coming towards the gate from the country, at the first 
angle, the stranger is brought to face 8 cannon, placed 
in two rows, at the second angle 2, and at the third 2; at 
the fourth he sees 3 on the right and 3 on the left ; and 
at the fifth finds himself in front of the gate, which has 
a gun on its top. The gate is of very heavy and durable 
masonry, and the passage through it is a dark arched 
way, about 55 feet long; it is closed by two heavy doors, 
with wickets so placed as not to face each other. 

Near the Hospital is part of the old French wall, 
about 50 feet high, which contains gentlemen's garden^'. 



212 QUEBEC. 

The Citadel, 

on Cape Diamond, is designed for a place of impregna- 
ble strength. It has been gradually progressing for a 
number of years, and is not expected to be soon com- 
pleted. Admission may be usually obtained by appli- 
cation to the proper officers, and necessary information 
can be gained at the hotels. The British government 
intended to devote j£5000 per annum on these works ; 
but as the money is sometimes delayed, they are occa- 
sionally exposed to some interruptions. In 1827 about 
£78,000 were still thought necessary to render the cita- 
del defensible. 

Most of the works are to be new, though some parts of 
the old have been made to serve. They include live 
or 6 acres, on the very summit of Cape Diamond, and 
extend to the verge of the precipice, 348 feet above the 
St. Lawrence. There are to be four bastions and one 
demi-bastion, a ravelin, in advance of the western bas- 
tion, and other out-works. The walls are about 40 feet 
high, and built perpendicularly, of fine hewn stone ; the 
ditch being blasted out of the solid rock, and about 50 
feet wide. After making two angles on the west of the 
gate, the new walls join the old. 

The Casemates. Entering the gates and passing 
behind the wall, a continued hne of large rooms is dis- 
covered following the wall, built of substantial brick 
work, and arched over head with such strength as to be 
bomb proof. These rooms, which are known by the 
technical name of Casemates, are about 50 feet long, 20 
wide, and 16 or 18 high, each to be lighted by a door 
and two small windows, looking inward, and pierced at 
the other side, with five loop holes each, for musketry. 
These loop holes are on the new plan, narrow inside, 
and opening with steps faced with iron, to prevent mus- 
ket shot from glancing in. There are to be about 40 
casemates : these are all towards the land side, the nat- 
ural defence of the precipice over the water being suffi- 
ciently strong to prevent the attempts of an enemy in 
that direction. The casemates will communicate with 



brock's battery. 213 

each other by folding doors, which may be thrown open 
the whole length of the bomb-proofs, and will then fur- 
nish space for the whole garrison, (from 3000 to 5000 
men,) to parade at once. 

The Subterranean Passage leads from a little stair- 
case in the bastion next east of the gate, under the ditch, 
to a small out- work with two or three casemated rooms. 
The stairs are so narrow as to admit only one person at 
a time , and are constructed in a spiral form, and in the 
neatest manner. The passage, which is about 130 feet 
long, has also two branches where guards might be placed 
to prevent intrusion. The cooking rooms, for part of 
the garrison, are near the second bastion ; and over the 
whole are to be mounted large cannon. 

Brock's Battery, a work of wood and earth, raised 
during the late war with the United States, is to be 
partly retained and converted into a Cavaliers' Battery. 
This, as well as the magazmes, barracks, officers' quar- 
ters, &c. is within the works ; and at the corner next the 
river and town, is the old Cavaliers' Batter)% a very hea- 
vy stone building, originally erected for the palace of 
the French governors of Quebec : below it, at the water's 
edge, Gen. Montgomery was killed. It has dark vaults, 
the walls are six feet thick, near the ground, and from 
the Telegraph on the top is one of the finest views that 
can be imagined : the broad surface of the St. Lawrence 
lies below, and stretches off" far to the right and left ; the 
whole city of Quebec is crowded together almost be- 
neath you, while Point Levi, with its white buildings, is 
seen opposite, with a long stretch of lofty shores. Turn- 
ing the eye in the opposite direction, the beautiful ridge 
of land, which begins many miles down the river on the 
northern side, and rises with a gentle swell from the 
shore, covered with the richest and most varied display 
of cultivation, offers a most delightful view over an ex- 
tensive and fertile region, beautiful in form, divided into 
innumerable portions, cultivated by a dense and indus- 
trious population, and scattered with their clustered 
dwellings. On the left, appears, among other villages, 
that of Lorette, with the Montreal road for nine miles, 



214 QUEBEC. 

almost lined with houses ; and on the right that of Beau- 
fort, occupying the ridge of the high ground, while a 
little beyond it, is the chasm into which the River Mont- 
morency plunges, with its famous cataract, just before it 
joins the St. Lawrence ; all the horizon in that direction, 
and indeed from the west to the north, and quite to the 
east, is broken by ranges of fine mountains, some of 
them near and bold, and in other places, between them, 
distant blue ridges are disclosed, three, four, or five in 
succession. Tsononthuan Mountain, which has two sum- 
mits and is 2000 feet high in the north-west, is the south- 
ern extreme of the granite range reaching from the La- 
brador coast to Lake Superior. In the south and south- 
west, where an aperture is left, is a distant and lower 
range, scattered with cottages. It may, perhaps, not be 
hazarding too much to say, that no scene in Canada, or 
the United States, can boast of a combination of objects, 
comparable in variety and magnificence to those here 
presented to view. 

Cape Diamond derives its name from the beautiful lit- 
tle rock-crystals, which are found in veins of white crys- 
talized lime-stone, disseminated in the black lime-stone 
blasted out for the works. The quartz stones used in 
the walls are very fine, and are brought from three miles 
above the city. Of those prepared for corner stones of 
a bastion, near the old governor'^ house, are homoge- 
neous masses of granular quartz, weighing 1^ or 2 tons, 
or even more. Some of the crystals are peri'ect and bril- 
liant, though small. 

There is a long stair case of many steps, leading from 
this elevated position down to the Lower Town, by 
which, it was originally intended to draw up heavy arti- 
cles. 

The Plains of Abraham. 

This interesting tract of ground, the field where Gen. 
Wolfe succeeded, by a bold and decisive blow in captur- 
ing the city of Quebec in 1759, lies at only about the 
distance of a mile, and should not be neolected. Indeed 



THE PLALXS OK ACRAIIAHI. 21J 

it would be found amply to repay the trouble, to make a 
much longer excursion in that direction, as the road is 
fine and the country interesting.* 

Passing out at St. Louis's Gate, you observe a number 
of handsome dwellings and gardens by the road side, 
mi til. you get some distance beyond the towers, when you 
turn into the Race Course on the left side of the road. 
The foundation of a monument to Wolfe and Montcalm 
was laid in 1 827. The spot where Gen. Wolfe fell is near 
the corner of the fenced field, off towards the river. A 
little east of the place, is the renmant of a breast work 



* After the battle of MontmoreTicy, while the English fleet 
by up the river, at one o'clock in the oig-ht of September 12th, 
1759, Ixtri:. VVol'e quirtly transported his troops from the 
fleet into the boats, and caiitiouslv passed down the river. 
He intended to land two or three miles above Cape Dinmond, 
and fret possession of the Heights of Abraham : bt.t was drift- 
ed down so rapidly that he passed the place without liiscover- 
ing it, and then resolved to attempt a landing at Wolfe's 
C >ve. just above the city. The shore is bold and the rocks 
so high and steep, that only a few sentinels were posted along 
the precipices and the margin. This desperate enterprise 
however did not discourage the leader or his troops ; but an 
hour before day break they had effected their landing, and 
commenced tfie arduous ascent by a narrow, broken path, at 
the top of which was stationed a captain's guard. As fast 
as the English reached the summit they formed on the level 
plain. 

At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived from above, and a battle 
was fought, which decided the fate of Canada. Montcalm 
stationed 1500 sharp ghooters in front, but the British coolly 
stood their ground tdl the French were within 40 yards, when 
they opened their fire, and soon afterwards terminated the 
engajement with their bayonets. The place where the great- 
est carnage was made, is near the river's bank, where the 
English left was closely engaged with the JVench rioht. The 
action lasted two hours, and in it both chiefs received their 
mortal wounds. Gen. Wolfe was shot in two or three places. 
When hardlv any signs of life remained, news was brought 
that the day'had declared for the British, " Then," said he, 
" I die content." 

T 2 



21G dTJEBEC, 

with several angles, marked out by bushes, and com- 
manding a fine view. The British line was first formed 
across the plain, and ran near the house by the road, and 
the battle was fijught principally on that ground. 

The Plains of Abraham are about a quarter of a mile 
in breadth, extending a great distance towards the west, 
with a gentle slope on each side, and so smooth as to 
offer an admirable field for the manoeuvering and display 
of troops. From the old breast-work, not only this 
ground is overlooked, but the shipping in Wolfe's Cove, 
the opposite shore, the river to the next tui-n, k,c. The 
spot appears, indeed, inferior in elevation only to Cape 
Diamond and the middle tower. 

Wolfe's Cove 

is about a mile further west, or half a mile beyond the 
large house seen near the river's bank, A branch of the 
road leads off to it from the left, and descends to the 
shore by a passage cut out !ong since the time of Gen. 
Wolfe, as the cove is now a great deposit for lumber. 

The course which he followed up the bank, lay along 
the channel of a little brook, which leads off to the right, 
while the road goes straight up the bank. 

Siege of Quebec in 1755. 

The scenes we have tlius briefly re-called, are not the 
only ones of a military character, of which this com- 
manding and delightful plain has been tlie theatre. 

In 1775, soon after the commencement of the revolu- 
tion, the Continental Congress prepared an expedition 
against Canada. It consisted of two divisions : one 
under Gen. Montgomery came down Lake Champlain 
and took St, John's, Chambly, Sorel, Three Rivers, and 
then proceeded down the St, Lawrence to this place. 
The other under Gen. Arnold, took the route through 
the wilderness of Maine for Quebec. 

Arnold had 10 companies of infantry, besides 3 of rifle- 
men, and one of artillery, with a few volunteers. They 



ROAD TO BEAUFORT, 21 V 

})roceeded up the Kennebeck, but suffered ?o much from 
fatigue and scarcity that many fell sick, and one division 
returned. The remainder, however, readied Point Levi 
on the 9th of November, and alarmed the city. Tlie 
batteaux had been removed, and the strong wind de- 
tained them from crossing, after they had been supplied 
by the Canadians. The English frigate Lizard and se- 
veral other vessels were also in the river. He at lengtli, 
however, effected a landing a little above Wolfe's Cove, 
and marching down the shore climbed up the rocks at 
that place, and surrounded the city without effect. Ho 
then retired 20 miles to Pointe aux Trembles, and waited 
for Gen. INIontgomery, who arrived, after great trials,, 
Dec. 1st, with about 300 men. 

The two generals afterwards marched to Quebec, and 
planting their mortars on the snow and ice, fired into the 
town with little effect. The small pox broke out, and 
the cold was severe ; but the town was attacked at four 
points at once, in a snow storm, without success. Mont- 
gomery was killed, one detachment was taken, and Ar- 
nold retired three miles and entrenched himself 

The Falls of Montmorency. 

Hire a coach, a gig, a caleche or a saddle horse, and 
set out, if possible, early in the morning. In a caleche^ 
you will have the advantage of a guide in yonr driver. 
Pass through the Palace gate and a village divided from 
Quebec only by tiie wall, cross the bridge over St. 
Charles's river, which forms a regular serpentine, and 
enter the beautiful cultivated plain beyond. A Convenf 
and Hospital are seen about a mile on the left, and a 
liandsome succession of fields is observed on both sides, 
divided by low palings. ,At the distance of a mile and 
a half the road passes several country houses, among 
which are remarkable Mr. "Williams's, a Quebec mer- 
chant. Col. Arcan's, &zc. 

Riding down the coast, at a considerable elcvatioK 
from the river, many fine views are presented of the oppo- 
site banks, the isle of Orleans, the monntnins of ?t/ Anne 



ilii aUEBEC. 

and Toiirmente down the river. Tlie dwellings ar*' 
small, and the inhabitants poor and numerous. 

Beaufort is a village principally composed of such 
buildings, stretching for a great distance along the road. 
Just before entering it, some large mills are seen on the 
right, standing on a stream which crosses the path, and 
beyond there is a natural pavement formed ©f the hori- 
zontal rock. There is a small church here, with three 
steeples, prettily situated on the river's bank, with a patch 
of grass and trees around it ; but it contains nothing 
worthy of particular attention. 

On approaching the Montmorency, the road turns to 
the left, and then to the right, on an extensive, smooth 
and gradual ascent, part of which was the field of a 
bloody slaughter, suifered by a division of Gen. Wolfe's 
army in 1739, a short time previous to his battle on the 
Heights of Abraham. The position of the armies will 
be more easily understood on reaching the opposite side 
of the river : it is therefore suilicient to remark here, 
that the French lines were bounded by the nearer bank, 
as the remains of their entrenchments on the left still 
testify ; and that the British came up from the shore of 
the St. Lawrence on the right, to attack two of their 
nearest batteries, before the second of which they were 
cut to pieces. 

Dismounting in a little wood and fastening the horses, 
you may proceed along the precipitous bank of the 
• Montmorency, by a foot path, to see the falls from this 
side. As it is a diincult way, and the view more fine 
and unobstructed from the opposite side, it is hardly v/ortli 
the trouble, unless you have plenty of time. You have 
to clamber rocks, pass down a long ladder, and stand on 
the verge of an abyss into which the cataract dashes. 
Water is drawn off here in a wooden race, for the sup- 
ply of Mr. Patterson's great Saw-miils, which are 
worthy of being visited. 

It is better therefore to follow the road on foot, to cross 
the bridge, (where you pay a soiis^) and entering the 
fields on the right, follow down the course of the river. 
There are several fine points of view, from which the 



THE FALLS OF MONTMORCXCV. 219 

falls appear to great advantage ; hut on account of the 
height and steepness of the banks, it is necesssary to de- 
scend towards the St. Lawrence, and then return by tha 
margin, to obtain a sight of them from below. 

On the line elevated point formed by the junction of 
the two rivers, and commanding an unobstructed view 
upon the St. Lawrence for many miles up and down, 
with several lofty mountains below, the Isle of Orleans 
opposite, Quebec above, and the cataract close at hand, 
the British here took a strong position in July, 1759 ; 
and from this place aiade a bold, but unsuccessful attempt 
against their enemies on the opposite side. The remains 
of their entrenchments are plainly visible under our feet. 
The natui-al and artificial strength of the city combined, 
was enough, even in those days, to discourage any at- 
tempt against it from the water ; and in order to prevent 
an approach by land, the French occupied two strong 
positions at a distance above and below it : the former 
at Sillery River, the other at the Montmorency. Wolfe 
here made a first, but unsuccessful attemj)t ; and after- 
wards, by a still more desperate blow, accomphshed his 
wishes at the Plains of Abraham, For an account of the 
battle of Montmorency, we refer to the note.* The 



* Battle of Montmorency. 

"When Gen. Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in June. 
1759, he posted his army on the island of Orleans while the 
rieot blockaded the port. At the end of that month lieneral 
Moncktoii was sent over to Point Levi, and established him- 
self there, whence he was able to lire upon the city. Above 
the River Montmorency, the landintr was protected by the 
Marquis do Montcalm. Gen. Wolfe landed his troops at the 
mouth of the Montmorency during the nis(ht of July 31st, 
and erected a battery on the precipice north-east of the falls, 
the remains of which are to be seen. The French were en- 
trenched along the opposite bank ; and on the 31st of July, 
Gen. Wolfe sent his troops to ford the Montmorency below 
the falls, to storm their works. Some of Gen. Monckton's 
force from Point Levi in crossing with boats got aground^ 



220 auEBEc. 

best view of the cataract is to be enjoyed from the spur 
of the rock, which projects from the eastern shore : but 
the spray, which keeps the surface covered with a coat 
of green, will drench the clothes in a few minutes. 

The height of the fall is said to be 240 feet ; and the 
banks on both sides below forms a precipitous and fright- 
ful precipice, of rather a curving form, of bare, sharp, 
slaty rock, whose strata incline from north to south, and 
the perpendicular veins run nearly N. W. and S. E. At 
low water the Montmorency may be forded, with some 
caution, where it was passed by the British troops ; but 
the tide rises fast and high. 

The Saw Mills built by Mr. Patterson are situated be- 
hind the western shore of the Montmorency. As before 
remarked, they are supplied with water by the trough 
seen on the other side. They are all contained m one 
large building, where the water enters at the third story 
in three channels, moving six gates in the second story, 
and five in the first. These gates are collections of saws, 
containing 6 or 8 each, which cut up whole logs into 
planks or boards at once. The rafts of timber are stop- 
ped above the mill, taken apart, and thus floated down 
by a little canal, whence they are drawn up by machine- 
ry, several logs being bound together by a chain, and 
laid before the saws. Vast quantities of sawn lumber 
are generally to be seen here on the wharves, ready for 



and difficulty ensued ; but the landing was made in the af- 
lernoon on the beach to the right of the saw mills. They 
came however too late : for the t))irteen grenadier companies 
with 200 Americans, who had landed before, refused to wait 
or to form, as had been intended iji four columns, but march- 
ed tumnltuously round the rock, and rushed up hjll in a mass 
towards tiie French works, at some distance back from the 
old redoubt on the point, which hndbeen deserted. A warm 
fire however was directed against them, which cut down 
about 500 men, and they were obliged to retreat to the re- 
doubt, whence they were ordered bick to the beach to form. 
The enterprise was then interrupted by a severe storm, and 
finally abandoned. 



ROUTE FROM auEBEC TO BOSTON. 221 

shipping. The mill contains 80 single saws, beside 5 
circular ones, which perform their work with great ra- 
pidity. 

Tlie Baron Renfrew, an immense timber ship, was 
launched from the Island of Orleans in 1825. It was a 
built vessel, although of a rude construction. It was 305 
feet in length, 60 feet beam, depth of hold 35 feet, from 
the keel to the tafirail 50, bowsprit 60 feet, mainmast 
above deck, 75 ; whole, 100 ; main yard 72. She was 
14 feet between decks ; the tiller was 28 feet long ; 
chain cable 120 fathoms 2h inch iron ; the anchors weigh- 
ed 75 and 90 cwt. and her measurement was 5,282 tons. 
She was loaded with timber in bulk, and carried above 
6000 tons of it ; but was lost on the coast of France. 

The Village of Lorette 

may be taken in the way returning from Montmorency, 
if there should be time enough remaining, (which is bare- 
ly possible,) and the ride along the high ridge leading in 
that direction, will be found delightful. Lorette is an 
Indian village, with a Catholic church, and the stranger 
may furnish himself with moccasins, belts, pipes, &c. 

Route, from Quebec to Boston. It is proposed by the 
state of Maine, to open a road from Hallowell up the 
course of the Kennebeck river, to the Canada line near 
Quebec. There is a communication kept up to some 
extent between the two places, and considerable numbers 
of cattle are driven every year that way ; but for a great 
distance it is necessary to pass through a wilderness, and 
in consequence of the want of inhabitants, there is no 
shelter to be found for man or beast, for several days* 
journeys. The names and distances of the principal pla- 
ces on this wild and unfrequented route, are given below. 
When the proposed road shall have been opened, it will 
be found a convenient way to New-England, for those 
who do not wish to return by Montreal, and will become 
peopled and frequently travelled. This is the route by 
which Gen. Arnold approached Quebec in 1775. 



Quebec to the Chaudiere, or 

Riviere du Lovip 60 

MooseRiver , 37 97 

Forks of the Kennebeck 24 121 

Upper settlement on do 12 133 

Ilallowell 67 200 

Boston 170 370 

Another route along the Penobscot is also to be survey- 
ed by the authority of the state of Maine. 

Land route from (Quebec to Montreal. 
Upper road. 
(The pleasanter.) 

1st post Lorette, 16 miles'. 

2d Jacques Cartier, 16 

3d Deschambeaux, 16 

4th St. Anne, 16 

.5th Batiscamp, 8 

6th Champlain, 9 

7th Aux Cayes, 8 

8th Trois Rivieres. 6 

Lower Road. 

Jstpost, Cape Rouge, 9 

2d St, Augustine, 9 

3d Pointe aux Trembles, 8 

4th Ecureil, 9 

5th Cape Sante, 9 

(Garneau's inn, called " the Three >Sw/er5," 
is excellent.) 

6th Deschambeaux, &c 8 miles. 

Canal to the bay of Fundy. 

A work of this kind has been proposed for several years, 
but has not yet been decided upon. The routes proposed 
are from the Tantamar Marsh, in Cumberland, to the 
Bf5V of Vnrte. the other from the mouth of the Memrarn- 



UUEBKC. 223 

cook River to Shediac. In Upper Canada there are only 
31 regular parishes, 45 churches, 30 clergymen of the 
established church, and a few of other denominations. 



'M-i JiuUTK IKOM ClUEKEC. 

ROUTES FROM QUEBEC, 
Road from Quebec to Montreal. 

For remarks on the advantages of travelling bj land^ 
on the St. Lawrence, compared with those off'ered by the 
Bteam boats, see page 199, recollecting thai the passage 
in the latter is usually 12 hours longer up the river than 
down. The country for some miles above Quebec is 
more varied in its surface, than that below Montreal ; 
and caleches and gigs may be obtained here as well as 
there. It is to be hoped that regular stage coaches will 
soon be established on the road. On page 22'ii is an 
enumeration of the villages and best inns. The former 
are generally nine miles apart, but the distances are par- 
ticularized. 

Steam Boat. Engage an early passage to Montreal. 

Leaving the dock, you pass under Cape Diamond, 
nearly at the foot of which General Montgomery was 
killed in 1775. 

Wolfe'' s Cove is about a mile beyond. See page 216. 

For the other places along the St. Lawrence, see the 
map, and the notices of them in the Route from Montreal 
to Quebec. 

Rapids of Richelieu, page 205. 

Three Rivers, page 204. 

Lake St. Peters. 

William Henry or Sorel, page 203. 

Montreal, page 188. 

See the route from Montreal to Lalie Ontario and 
Xiagara. 

From Montreal to Lake Champlain, and the 

United States. 

Those who are returning by this route, may be advised 
to cross to Longeuil instead of La Prairie, and go to St. 
John's by the way of Chambly. The distance is nearly the 
.same, the passage of the river is effected in a good horse- 
boat, the countrv is much finer and better cultivated, 



PASSAGE UP LAKE CHAMPLAI\. 225 

and the old castle or tower of Chambly is of some inter- 
est for its history. It will be necessary, however, to 
make particular arrang-einents for a carriage, and to take 
every precaution to arrive at St. John's in season for the 
steam boat. From Montreal to Longueil 3 miles, Lon- 
gueil to Chambly 12, thence to St. John's 15. 

Chambly. 

This is a small village. Near the middle of it stands 
the old fort, on a point, surrounded by a ditch. It is an 
old square building, perhaps 180 feet on each side, with 
bastions at the corners, but incapable of withstanding 
heavy cannon. This fort was taken by Majors Brown 
and Livingston, in 1755, who were sent out with a strong 
detachment by Gen. Montgomery, while he was besieg- 
ing St. John's. The garrison, being very feeble, sur- 
rendered. 

St. John's : see page 185. 

In the last war the British had 6000 men hutted here 
for a year and a half. 

Passage from St. John's to Whitehall. 
Four oteam boats run this year (1828) from St, John's 
to Whitehall. They go every day. 
St. John's. 

Isle aux Noix 10 miles. 

Pvouse's Point 11 

Cha/.y 12 

Plattsburgh 15 

Port Kent 8 

Burlington* ; 10 

Charlotte, Essex 15 

PortChnton 10 

Dalliba's Works, 
Port Henry, 

Chimney Point 12 

Ticonderoga 15 

Whitehall 25 



i « 



* From this town there is a finft . ^ad to Boston, 



226 ROUTE FROM CANADA, 

For the principal places on the lake, see the Index. 

At the time when Gen. St. Clair evacuated Ticonde- 
Toga in 1777, the following arrangements were made for 
retreat. The baggage, hospital furniture, sick, park of 
artillery, stores, and provisions, embarked under Colonel 
Long, under strong convoy, in 200 batteaux and five 
armed galleys. The main army went via Castleton, 
with St. Clair at the head and Col. Francis in the rear, 
and the general rendezvous was at Skeenesborough 
(Whitehall.) A house which took fire on Mount Inde- 
pendence attracted the attention of the British, who 
soon began the pursuit. Gen. Frazer, with grenadiers 
and light troops, with Reidesel behind him, followed by 
land ; while Burgoyne cut through the boom and bridge, 
and sailed up Wood Creek. His gun boats and ships 
overtook the American's flotilla, took two galleys, blew 
up three, and the Americans set fire to the rest and 
fled on to Fort Anne. 

On leaving Ticonderoga, the lake soon becomes much 
narrower. At about nine miles distance, the Scotch 
farms are seen on the western shore. They are in the 
township of Putnam, and present an aspect less wild 
than most of the surrounding scenes. 

Looking back on Ticonderoga from this place Mount 
Defiance appears at about nine miles distance. It de- 
scends on the left to the Scotch Farms, which are princi- 
pally cleared land, and is a good land mark. Beyond it is 
another mountain sloping like it. Ticonderoga here ap- 
pears to close up the passage of the lake, with Sword's 
Point on the left. 

The Four Channels. 

Fourteen miles from Whitehall, the lake suddenly 
contracts itself into four narrow passages, between two 
ranges of mountains, which in some places present per- 
pendicular precipices ; and its bed, at low water, ap- 
pears almost entirely occupied by a little meadow of the 
brightest green, through which the channels wind with 



WOOD CREEK. -Siit 

beautiful serpentines. The scene is highly picturesque, 
the rocky points on both sides being so abrupt as to seem 
as if forcibly parted by an earthquake, or a very swift, 
and powerful stream. Every distant object is entirely 
shut out, and the banks present a striking aspect of wild- 
ness and seclusion. 

Some distance beyond, where the creek enters a small 
tract of level ground, it passes between two remarkable 
rocks, with precipitous banks like walls, about 50 feet 
high, like great natural bastions erected to guard the 
straits. 

A succession of beautiful little serpentines are passed, 
with ragged precipices, and many little patches of level 
ground on the margin of the water ; while, on the eastern 
side, the tow path accompanies the bank. 

South Bay 

opens to the south, and runs down five miles between 
high mountains. Here the creek takes a sudden turn to 
the east, communicating with the bay by a little channel 
sometimes scarcely 20 yards across. General Dieskau 
took this route with his army, in going towards Fort Ed- 
ward, in 1753. 

Deer are sometimes seen here in passing. On tli« 
eastern side of the bay, on the mountain, is a natural ice- 
house about four miles off. 

The Devil's Pulpit is a singular cavity in the face 
of a bare precipice on the eastern side of the creek, at a 
considerable elevation, in the form of a wedge, and so 
regular as to seem a work of art, although probably made 
by the falling of a mass of the rock. 

Distant mountains open to the view, in front, as we 
proceed, with ranges of willows on the shore. 

(A precipice on the east is a good mark of the approach 
to South Bay, in going up.) 

The Elbow is a narrow part of the creek, with two 
very short turns, through which the passage requinps a 
vcrv exact helm. 



228 koute from canada, 

East Bay 

strikes off at the first bend, and makes up five miles, 
along a romantic country. A sugar loaf hill will be ob- 
served at a Uttle distance on the right, which rises above 
Whitehall, and makes the approach to that place quit© 
picturesque. 

WHITEHALL. 

On the top of a rock over the harbour was formerly a 
battery, and in the town a block house. Numerous boats 
and great quantities of lumber are usually seen here, as 
the Champlain or Northern Canal begins at the bridge, 
where are two locks, with a sluiceway, and a rocky 
channel. 

Inns. Rock's and Wing's. 

The heights at this place were occupied by Burgoyne's 
yjght wing, while he was preparing to march towards 
Saratoga; his centre was formed by Gen. Frazer; the 
Brunswickers, on the left, rested on the river of Castle- 
ton ; and the Hessians were at the head of East Bay. 

Roads. Stage coaches go south, on the arrival of the 
steam boat in two directions : one on each side of Wood 
Creek and the Hudson River. That on the west side is 
recommended to those who are going directly on to Al- 
bany, as it passes along the route of the Champlain Ca- 
nal, by the "• Surrender Ground," and near the " Battle 
Ground of Bemis's Heights." Coaches also go to the 
Springs. 

The survey of a canal route from Rutland to Whitehall, 
N. Y. gives a descent of 211 feet, and an ascent of 274 — 
the distance is 24i miles. The height of land is west 
tif Poultncy River, 7 miles from Whitehall. 

Road to Boston, 178 m. 

through Walpole ; .See " Routes. ■■ 



ROAD FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY. 229 

To Albany, on the eastern side of the Hudson^ 79 m. 

West Granville 11 miles. 

East. Granville* 3 

Hebron 9 

Salem 8 

Cambridge ..16 

Pittstown 13 

liansingburg 10 

Troy 3 (seepag-e40) 

Albany 6 (see page 30) 



To Albany,' o?i the west side of the Hudson, 68 



m. 



Fort Anne 12 

Fort Edward 9 

He)-e a coach passes to ^Saratoga Springs. 

Fort Miller ,....^... 8 

Schuylersville 6 (see page 148) 

British Lines 7 (see page 122) 

Passing Bemis'^s Heights, 

Stillwater 8 

Borough 3 

Waterford 8i 

New Mohawk Bridge 1 (see page 44) 



* Saddle Mountain, whose lofty ridje will be seen from 
almost every point in this vicinity, is 2,800 feet higher than 
the site of Williams' College. Tt derives its name from its 
resemblance to a riding saddle. Snow lies late upon its top, 
where the climate is so cold as to admit only a stinted growth 
to the spruce, yellow birch, beech, fir, mountain ash, and 
other trees which are there to be found. Vegetation is there 
more than a month behind the vallies below. An excursion 
to the summit is not very difficult, and affords fine views. 

A Mineral Spring is situated about 1 1-2 miles north of 
the College in Williamstown, and a few hundred yards east 
of the Albany road. It is a tepid water and resembles that 
of New Lebanon— temperature 75 Fahrenheit. Mr. West's 
house affords accommodations, baths, &c. to lodgers : and 
the spring has proved beneficial in cutaneous cases. 



230 ROUTE FROM CANADA. 

The road accompanies the course of Wood Creek, 
which is damned and used for a canal, to which its nar- 
rowness and depth give it a strong resemblance. Tiiis 
creek is famous in the history of the operations in this 
region during the revolutionary and French wars ; and 
after repeated exertions to clear it of the logs, &c. by 
which it was obstructed, it bore the troops sent against 
Canada, &ic. which often passed by this route, from the 
days of Queen Anne. The scenery is agreeable, though 
rough ; and there is little cultivation off the road. 

Half a mile north of the village of Fort Anne, Wood 
Creek makes an elbow to a ledge of rocks, so near that 
there is but little space for the road between. Here Col. 
Sterry was overtaken, in tlie retreat from Ticonderoga, 
in 1777, by Burgoyne's troops, and an engagement took 
place, memorials of which are occasionally found in the 
soil to this day. A little south, on the brow of the hill, a 
quarter of a mile from the stage house, stood Fort Anne. 
in the revolution. 

Tiie old fort of the same no,me, built many years pre- 
viously, and known in the French wo.rs, was about half 
a mile south of the village, on a gentle eminence a lit- 
tle east of the road, where some remains of the old cn- 
Irenchments are still to be seen. 

The remains of Burgoyne's Road begin about two 
miles south of Fort Anne, at the foot of a hill, and are 
traced about three fourths of a mile, near the present 
road to a wood. It was formed of logs, and found ne- 
cessary to render the country passable with his cannons 
and baggage wagons. The labour necessary for its 
formation, superadded to that of clearing Wood Creek of 
the obstructions which Gen. Schuyler had thrown into it 
after the retreat of the Americans, was one great cause 
of the delay of the British army, on this part of the road 
— a delay which allowed the people time to resume their 
spirits, and the officers to lay plans, obtain resources, 
und prepare for the sanguinary scenes atBemis's Heights 
and the surrender at Saratoga. 

French Mountain opens to view a little beyond, witli 



FORT EDWAllD. 231 

a succession of high grounds in the direction of South 
Bay, Lake George, &;c. 

About half a mile above Fort Edward, stands an old 
tree, which marks the place where was perpetrated 

The Murder of Miss McCrea. 

Miss McCrea lived in the village of Fort Edward. In 
the revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, to 
whom she was betrothed, having attached himself to the 
English cause, and joined their forces in Canada, was in- 
vested with a captain's command in Gen. Burgoyne's 
army. After the retreat of the Americans from the lake, 
and while the British were approaching, he sent a party 
of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended bride to 
him, that he might secure her safety. She was very un- 
willing to proceed with her savage conductors on the 
road towards Fort Anne ; and had gone only half a mile 
when the Indians stopped to drink at a spring which 
still flows by the way side ; and while here were met 
by another party of Indians despatched to hasten them 
on. Those who came last attempted to take her under 
their charge ; but the others, being determined not to 
give her up ahve, bound her to a tree that is yet standing 
near the spring, and shot her dead with their muskets. 
Locks of her hair were borne to her lover, to prove that 
the Indians had performed what they considered their 
duty to their employer. 

This story rang through the country ; and it was re- 
ported that Gen. Burgoyne encouraged or at least permit- 
ted the murder. Jn indignant terms he denied the charge ; 
and there appears no probability that he had the least 
knowledge of it. He, however, was justly chargeable 
with a great offence against humanity, in bringing tribes 
of savages in his train, whose barbarity he could never 
be sure of restraining. 

Fort Edward. 

This village was built in the neighbourhood of a fort 
raised during the war of 1755, for the defence of this 



232 ROUTE FROM CANADA. 

point of the river. It was first called Fort Lyman, after 
Gen. Lyman, of wli m we have already had occasion to 
make honourable mei tion at Lake Gdorge. This spot 
was formerly called the Fir- 1 Carrying Place, !>eing the 
point where, in the exped. ions against Canada, the 
troops, stores, &c. were lantiod and taken to Wood 
Creek, a distance of 12 miles, where they were again 
embarked. 

Baker's Falls, at Sandy Hill, 

are worthy of particular attention, and are seen to great 
advantage from some parts of the bank. The whole de- 
scent of the river at this place is about 75 feet. 

Fort Miller. 

The village still retains the name of a fort erected on 
the west side of the river, in former times. It was a work 
of insignificant size, situated on the bank and near 

Miller's Falls. 

The descent of the river here is rapid, and over a bro- 
ken channel. The falls were formerly considered impas- 
sable with safety, until Gen. Putnam performed it while 
stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. . 

The Great Dam. 

Above Fort Edward, a lai^^i and expensive dam has 
been built across the river, and a canal cut along the 
bank to open a passage for boats. [The dam is ')00 feet 
long.] 

[For places on any route selected by the traveller, see 
the Index.] 



NEW-ENGLAND. 23'3 

TOUR OF NEW-ENGLAND. 

To Travellers going Eastward from JYcic-York. 

It is recommended to the stranger who is travelling 
eastward to see the country, to determine on Boxna plan 
for his journey before setting out. "^ A stage coach goes 
every morning to Connecticut, and onward ; but this is 
not the most agroeable route. {Steam boats go from 
New -York to the following places oi: the northern shore 
of Long island iSound : Norwalk, S' imford, Stratford, 
New-Haven, Connecticut Ki\er, (a/it up that to Hart- 
ford,) New-London, (and Norwich,^ Newport, (and 
Providence.) 



* The coach sets off for New-Haven every morning at 8 
o'clock, from Jaques's stage office, in Cortlandt-street, pass- 
ing through Harlaem on Manhatten Island, West Chester, 
East Chester, New-Rochelle, Mamaronec, and Rye, in the 
state of New-Yorli ; and Greenwich, Stamford, Darien, Nor- 
walk, Fairfield, Bridgeport, Stratford, Milford, and Orange, 
in Connecticut. 

In Harlfem, the road passes tear the East River, and gives 
a view of Hell Gate. 

Beyond Morrissania, the estate and mansion of the Hon. 
Gov. Morris is seen on the right : one of the finest for taste- 
fulness and extent in this part of the country. (See Battle 
of White Plains, page 16.) 

In the town of Horseneck, 33 miles from New-York, is a 
steep hill descending towards the north, down which General 
Putnam once ef^f^cted his escape from several British officers 
and soldiers during the revolutionary war, when returning 
from a scout. He drove his horse hastily down the rocky 
hill side, a little east of the road, and near the fence, and 
saved so much distance as to elude his pursuers. 

West Chester, and the country about it, were at that period 
neutral ground ; and Mr. Cooper, the novelist, has made 
them the scene of his popular tale — " the Spy." 

In the town of Fsirfield, 53 miles frum New- York, a mile 
or two before reaching the village, is a low, level piece of 
ground on the right hand side of the road, which was for- 



^34 ROUTli FROM N. YORK TO N. ENGLAND. 

EAST RIVER. 

Leaving New-York in any of the East River steam 
boats, the traveller lias Brooklyn on the right, (now the 
third town for size in the state, and strictly a suburb of 
the capital.) 

The Navv Yard, just beyond. 

The Railway, for ships, is above, on the west side. 

The Penitentiary, and the Fever Hospital, are a 
little beyond. 

At Hell Gate, numerous objects present themselves 
on entering the bay. On the distant high ground, west, 
is seen the Lunatic Asylum ; a white Block House on 
the hill on the east side ; below it, an old fort by the 
water ; and a number of handsome country houses 
along the green shore on the left. The surface is broken 
by several rocks, and by the agitation of the water, 
particularly at the whirl called the Great Pot, a little 
north of the fort, and the rapid current on the opposite 



merly an almost impenetrable swamp, and, at an early period 
of our history, was the scene of a bloody slaughter. It was 
hither that the remains of a powerful and terrible nation of 
Indians, called Pequods, having fled from their country about 
New-London and Groton, after the destruction of their fort 
at Mystic by Capt. Mason, in 1636, were either killed or taken 
captive. This was their last and total defeat, and extinguish- 
ed their name as a nation. Much of the ground has been 
cleared in modern times ; and some reliques have been 
found to confirm the traditions of the neighbourhood. 

This place was burnt by the British in the revolution. 
Danbury, an inland town, was also burnt, with extensive 
public stores, and an action was fought in which Gen. Woos- 
ter fell. 

On the east side of Ilousatonnuc, or Stratford River, a mile 
or more above the bridge, was once a fort, built by the In- 
dians of the place, to secure themselves against the Mo- 
hawks, who had subjugated most of the country on the west- 
ern side of Connecticut River before the arrival of the 
Knsflish. 



NEW-HAVE.V. 235 

shore known by tlie name of the Hog-'s Back. In coming 
from the north, almost the first view of New- York is 
here presented, between the western shore and Black- 
well's Island, With a shot tower on the right. 

New-Haven. 

This is decidedly one of the most beautiful towns is 
the United States. The soil is not very good, and the 
situation is low ; the town (or rather city) is laid out 
in squares, with straight and broad streets, and the ele- 
vated ground in the neighbourhood renders the approach 
very fine from almost every direction. It stands at the 
head of a spacious bay, with a lig-ht-house on the eastern 
point, a small fort on the shore, another on Pros- 
pect Hill, and two BluiFs, called East and West Rocks, 
2 or 3 miles behind the town. A more distant peak is 
seen between them, which is Mount Carmel. The Long- 
wharf, is three quarters of a mile in length. The steam 
boats stop at the bridge, where carriages will be found in 
waiting to take travellers to the centre of the town, 
which is more than a mile distant. 

On the shore, near the bridge, is a large building in- 
tended for a steam boat hotel, but now occupied as a 
School for the education of Boi/s^ by the Rev. Sereno E. 
and Henry E. D wight. The system resembles that of 
the Round Hill School at Northampton. The streets of 
the town are regular and pleasant, formmg squares, one of 
which is a green surrounded by rows of elms, with three 
churches and the State House in the middle, and the 
College buildings occup3nng the western side, presenting 
a scene probably not eqttalled by any town of this size 
in the United States. The abundance of fine trees, the 
neatness and beauty of the dwellings, the good society 
of the place, and the distinguished position it holds as 
a seat of learning, render New-Haven the resort of a 
great number of strangers dui'ing the travelling season, 
and the temporary residence of not a few. 

There is a Hopkins Grammar School in the town, and 
a number of Boarding Schools for young ladies, with 

Y 



5236 ROUTE IN CONNECTICUT. 

instructers in every branch of useful and ornamental 
education. 

Yale College. This institution, however, is the 
principal object which will attract the attention of the 
stranger. It was founded in 1701, and first located at 
Killingworth, then removed to Saybrook, and after a few 
years permanently fixed in this town. The first building 
was of wood, and stood near the corner of College and 
Chapei-streets. There are now four buildings for stu- 
dents, each containing 32 rooms ; a Chapel, with a Phi- 
losophical chamber and apparatus, and a Lyceum, with 
recitation rooms and the library. In the rear are the 
Gymnastic apparatus, the Common's Hall, in a small build- 
ing with the splendid Mineraiogical Cabinet above, which 
is the finest collection of the kind in the United States, 
lately purchased from Colonel Gibbs, of New- York. In 
another building is the Chemical Laboratory, where Pro- 
fessor Silliman delivers his lectures. The institution 
contains nearly 400 scholars. 

Next north of the College is the house of President 
Day, and the professors have pleasant residences in the 
town. 

The Medical Institution is at the north end of Col- 
lege-street. 

In 1826 there were 336 students who received degrees 
in all the colleges of New-England. The number of 
students in all the Medical Schools in the United States 
in tnat year was about 1700. 

Colleges in New-Eiigtand. There were 1399 students 
in all the New-England Colleges in 1827, of wUom 130 
belonged to Maine, 131 to New-Hampshire, 146 from 
Vermour 43; I'rom Massachusetts, and 196 from Con- 
necticut. 

[ Accordmg to the Registers of the several States, there 
are in New-England, exclusive of Rhode-island, 1,633 
ministers of the Gospel, viz. 862 Congrjgationaiists, 
605 Baptists, 167 Methodists, 72 Episcopalians, 15 Pres- 
byterians, 85 Freewill Baptists, 24 Universalists, and 6 
Christy ans. Of these 228 are in Maine, 241 in New- 
Hampshire, 284 in Vermont, 497 in Massachusetts, and 



THE FARMINGTON CANAL. 237 

383 in Connecticut. In proportion to the population, the 
ministers of all denominations are, in New-Hampshire, 
as 1 to 1,013; in Massachusetts, as 1 to 1,052 ; in Con- 
necticut, as 1 to 718 ; in Vermont, as 1 to 830. Of the 
Congregational ministers, 101 are in Maine, 111 are in 
New-Hampshire, 114 in Vermont, 332 in Massachusetts, 
and 184 in Connecticut; bemg to the whole population 
respectively, as 1 to 2,932; 1 to 2,199 ; 1 to 2,068 ; I to 
1,486 ; and 1 to 1,493. It should be noticed, however, 
that the Registers are not perfectly accurate, and that 
we are obliged to conjpare the population in 1820 with 
the number of ministers in 1827.] 

The New Burying Ground is situated opposite 
the Medical Institution, and occupies a large extent of 
land, partly planted with poplars, and containing a great 
number of beatiful ornaments, of different designs. It 
is considered the most beautiful cemetery in this 
country. 

The Old Burying Ground was in the middle of the 
green, in the rear of the Centre Church, and there are 
to be seen two ancient stone monuments, of a small size, 
which are supposed to mark the graves of two of the re- 
gicide judges, Whalley and Dixwell, although there 
is much doubt on the subject. (See Stiles' Judges.) 

New-Haven and Farmington Canal. 

This work was commenced about three years ago, 
and is designed to afford a navigable boat channel, to 
the Massachusetts line in Simsbury, whence it is met by 
the Hampshire and Hampden Canal, which is to meet 
Connecticut River at Northampton. By an act passed in 
1828 by the legislature of Massachusetts, this work may 
be continued along the course of the river, and the asso- 
ciated companies extended their views to the construc- 
tion of a Canal, to Barnet in Vermont. The Company 
for the Improvement of Connecticut River are, at the 
same time, pursuing a system, which will be hereafter 
more particularly adverted to. 

The New-Haven and Farmington Canal commences 



\!3'(j ROUTE IN CONNECTICUT. 

near the head of the wharf in this city, is crossed by 
the traveller in going up from the steam boat, near the 
market. The basin is large and commodious ; and the 
canal, passing through a part of the city, and bending 
round along the outskirts, on the north side, intersects 
several streets, by which it is crossed on handsome 
bridges. With a gradual ascent, the canal passes cfome- 
wliat circuitously up the valley which opens towards 
Mount Carmel, oetween East and West Rocks ; and one 
of the stage roads to Hartford, which passes through 
Cheshire and Farmington, alfords many views of it in 
different places. When the whole line shall become 
navigable, it will be an attraction to many travellers, 
and in a future edition, the objects along it may be par- 
ticularized. 

The first part of the canal passes through an easy 
and natural chaonel, where is little variation in the sur- 
face ; and introduces to the beautiful and fertile mea- 
dows at Farmington. The upper part, however, and 
particularly the Hampshire and Hampden Canal, will 
require much lockage ; but the irregularity of the coun- 
try will present an interesting varict}- of scenery. 

There are pleasant rides m various directions from 
New-Haven, the roads being numerous, and the face of 
the country favoarabie, Tiie tv/o mountains command 
extensive views, and though ihe access is rather fatiguing, 
the excursion is recommended to tbosewho are fond of 
such enterprises. 

The Judges' Cave is on the summit of West Rock, 
about a mile north of the bluff : and the way to it leads 
near Beaver Pond, and Pine iiock, (on the south side of 
which is a small cave,) then between Pine and West 
Rocks. You here turn off the road to the left, by a path 
across a brook : and a guide may usually be obtained at 
a small house just beyond, who can show a horse path 
to the summit. 

The cave is formed by the crevices between seven large 
rocks, apparently thrown together by some convulsion. 
It is gmall. and entirely above ground, with a rude rock. 



THE TIIiaiBLE ISLAM!. 239 

like a column, on each hand. That on the right contains 
this inscription, 

" Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God," 

to remind the visiter that the place once afforded shelter 
to Goffe audWhalley, two of the judges of king Charles 
the First, who escaped to the colonies and secreted tiiem- 
selves for some time in this solitary place. They were 
supplied with food by a family which resided near the 
foot cf the mountain, and a little boy was despatched for 
them every day, who left a basket of provisions on a 
rock, without knowing what cause he was subserving. 
The place commands an extensive view upon the coun- 
try below, with a large tract of Long Island, and the 
Sovmd. 

The Manufactory of Muskets is 2 miles north of 
New-Haven, on the road to Hartford by Meriden, and at 
the foot of East Rock. It was established by Mr. Whit- 
ney, the well-known inventor of the Cotton Jin. The 
machinery is carried by the water of a small river, and 
the houses of the overseers and workmen make a pretty 
appearance on the shore. Muskets are made here in all 
their parts, m.any of them for the arsenals of the United 
States. It is designed to make the arms so much alike, 
that the parts may be applied indifferently to all that 
proceed from the same manufactory. It is not found 
possible, however, to accomplish this object to the full 
extent desired. 

Road to Middletown. 

Northford 10 

Durham 8 

Middletown 6 

(For a description of this beautiful town, see beyond.) 

Beyond New-Haven in Long Island Sound, lies a clus- 
ter of Islands called the Thimbles, famous in the tradi- 
tions of the neighbouring Connecticut coast, as the an- 

Y 2 



240 routt: in Connecticut. 

r.ient, rosort of Capt. Kidd, a notable pirate, whoso treasures 
of solid gold, it is still believed by some, arc eoncealed 
somewhere hereabouts. Within this labyrinth of islands 
and headlands is a little sceluded bay or inlet, capable of 
euntainiug only one vessel at a time, which bears the 
nauie of Kidd's Ilarl)our. There is also his island, his 
chair, and his '• punch bowl.' There are several houses 
iilonp' the shore, within a few miles of this place, which 
are resorted to during the wariti season by a considera- 
ble number of visiters iVom tiie interior, for the sake of 
bathing in the salt water, and eating hWjsters, black fish, 
and oysters. In September nnd October, ducks may be 
found in great quantities near the shore, and black fisli 
are caught in considerable numbers ; but tiie best fishing 
is further east, at New-London, Newport, &c. 

[As it is necessary, in a work like this, we have U'ldor- 
takon to pursue some definite course, and lo mentioi, 
places and ol'jects in the order in which they will proba- 
bly occur to most travellers, we shall here leave J^ong 
Island Sound to proceed up Connecticut River, and only 
refer the reader to the Index for an account of the coast 
beyond, and the following subjects ami places: New- 
London, the Thames, Norwich, the Mohegans, the Pc- 
quods, yaccaous's Fort, Mystic Port, tJie Narragansd t 
vshore, Newport, Providence, &lc. 

SAYBROOK. 

At this place was the first settlement made by Euro- 
peans on Connecticut River. It was done at the earnest 
solicitation of many of the rigjitful proprietors of the 
country on its banks, who had been despoiled of tlieir 
possessions by tlieir formidable enemies, the Pequods. 
The River Indians, as our old histories usually denomi- 
nate the former, twice made application to the English at 
Plymouth and at Boston, to oi.tain settlers upon their na- 
tive soil, offering to give tlu^iu land enough, and to pay 
200 beaver skins annually for the benefitof their society. 
But the undertaking was considered too hazardous, and 
it was not until the vear 16r35, when the Dutch at New- 




'IchfT Frint. ZCg Water SP 



lJ.J.77,.roo/i .fcJ/r 



siAYBROOK. 241 

York showed a determination to seize upon the country, 
which they claimed as their own, that a small detach- 
ment of men was sent from Boston by water to prepare 
for opening a trade with the Indians, and to build a fort 
at the mouth of the river. Their haste was soon justifi- 
ed by events : for immediately after their landing, a 
Dutch vessel entered, and proceeding up to Hartford, 
landed a body of men, who soon established themselves 
in a fort they called Good Hope, on a spot they obtained 
from Pequod usurpers. 

The settlement of Saybrook was begun under a grant 
made to Lord Say and Seal, Lord Brook, and others, by 
George Fenv/ick, Esq. who lied to this country with his 
family. The old fort stood near the present fort hill, 
upon an eminence which has since been destroyed by the 
waves ; and the ground immediately behind it was after- 
wards occupied by the fields and habitations of the colo- 
nists. It was expected from the first, that the situation 
would render the place a great city ; and after the fear 
of the Indians had subsided, the whole peninsula, which 
bears the name of Saybrook Point, was laid out with the 
greatest regularity into fields of an equal size, except 
such parts as were reserved for the erection of public 
buildings. Yale College was placed here for a time, 
and a great number of emigrants were once collected in 
England, and prepared for a voyage to this place. Some 
persons of high rank and importance were among them, 
and it is a well-authenticated fact, that Oliver Cromwell 
had determined to embark in the enterprise, and was 
once on the very eve of quitting England for ever, when 
some unforeseen occurrence prevented him. 

The want of a harbour, and the obstacles presented to 
a free navigation by a large sand bar at the mouth of 
the river, have effectually prevented the expectations of 
the settlers of Saybrook from being realized ; and no re- 
mains of their works can now be discovered, except in 
the rectangular forms of tiie fields, and the cellars of 
some of their dwellings, just beyond the burying ground, 
the foundation stones of which have since been employed 
in building the neighbouring fences. One of the largest 



242 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

excavations is said to have been the cellar of the old co!- 
lege building. The soldiers were frequently attacked 
within a short distance of the fort by the Pequods, but 
they afterwards ran a palisade across the isthmus which 
leads from the main land. 

CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

The shores present a continued succession of hilly and 
picturesque country, with few interruptions of level 
land, from a little above Saybrook as; far as Middletown. 
The roughness and rocky nature of the soil prevent the 
cultivation of many mountainous tracts : yet there are 
farms enough to give a considerable degree of softness 
to the scenery. The variety of rocky and wooded banks, 
mingling v/ith little patches of cultivated ground, and 
the habitations scattered along the river, is very agreea- 
ble, and often affords scenes highly picturesque and de- 
lightful. 

Essex, 
7 miles from Saybroolz. 

This place was formerly called Pettipaug. It is a 
small village, situated on the ascent and summit of 
a handsome elevation, and contains a church and one or 
two other public buildings, on a conspicuous position. 
Just above it is an island of some extent, which divides 
the river and gives it an unusual breadth. During the 
late war with Great Britian, this place was taken by the 
enemy, who came up tlie river in launches, and taking 
the inhabitants by surprise, occupied the town for a few 
hours. 

Some distance above this place the channel lies so 
near the eastern shore, that the steam boat passes almost 
under the trees by which it is shaded. 

Joshua's Rock is on the same side of the river, a little 
below Brockway's Ferry. It is said to have derived its 
name from a son of Uncas, Sachem of the Moliegans, 
(see JVorwich^) who, according to a tradition current in 
the neighbourhood, being once closely pursued by en- 



MIDDLE HADDAM. 243 

emies, threw himself from the top of the rock, and perish- 
ed in the river. 

Warner's Ferry, \3 miles from Saybrook. 

East Haddam. 

The landing place here is rocky, mountainous and 
wild, and a good specimen of a large portion of the town 
to which it belongs. Gen. Champion has a fine house 
built among the rocks above, which adds much to the 
appearance of the place. This region is famous for 
a kind of earthquakes and subterranean sounds, which 
were formerly common for a short distance round. They 
gave occasion to many superstitious reports, but have 
ceased within a few years. They were called Moodas 
JVoises, after the Indian name of the place. Large beryls 
are found in the neighbourhood, and many other mine- 
rals interesting to the scientific traveller. 

Haddam 

is built on an eminence 50 or 60 feet high, which appears 
like the remains of an old bank of the river, descending 
a little meadow which is covered with orchards, grazing 
ground, &c. while a range of commanding hills rise be- 
yond. 

HiGGENUM 

is one of the little landing places so numerous along the 
rivers course, 2 miles above Haddam. 

Middle Haddam, 2 miles. 

This is a pleasant country village, stretching along a 
hill covered with orchards and house lots, and backed 
by higher and wilder eminences. It is about 6 miles 
below Middletown. 

Looking down the river from a little above this place, 
a laroe and beautiful hill is seen, which affords the rich- 



244 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

est scene of cultivation on this part of the river, being 
entirely covered with fields and orchards. A large 
wooded eminence is a little higher up, and several high 
hills, almost worthy of the name of mountains, are visible 
in the north. 

The Narrows. 

Here the river turns abruptly to the west, and flows 
between two lofty hills, which it has divided at some 
long past period, before which, there is every reason to 
believe, the country for a great distance above was co- 
vered by a lake. A mile or two eastward of this place, 
there is the appearance of an old channel, where the 
water probably ran, at a great height above its present 
level. 

The Lead Mine is a short distance from the southern 
bank of the river, near two or three old houses. {See a 
little beyond.) 

Fort Hill is the last elevated part of the southern 
bank. It was formerly a little fortress belonging to Sou- 
heag, an Indian chief, whose dominion extended over the 
present towns of Middletown, Chatham, and Wethers- 
field. The large buildings on the hill in Middletown 
belong to Capt. Partridge's Academy. 

MIDDLETOWN 

is beautifully situated on the western bank of tlie river, 
where the water is spread out to a considerable breadth, 
and disappears so suddenly at the Narrows, that from 
many points of view, it has the appearance of a small 
lake, with high, sloping, and cultivated shores. This is 
a most agreeable residence for strangers, particularly for 
families, during the pleasant seasons of the year, and 
will no doubt be soon supplied with more numerous and 
extensive accommodations. 

A large hotel has recently been built, which is kept 
by Mr. Newton. Mrs. Riley keeps a large boarding- 
house, in a delightful situation, half up tlie hill. Mr. 
Camp'^s and Mr. Boardman''s (in the same street,) are 
lurffe inns. 



»lIliDI.ETOWi\. 245 

The Military and Scientific Academy of Capf. Part- 
ridge. This institution was removed hither in 1825, 
funds being contributed tor the erection of the buildings, 
which consist of a principal one, 150 feet long, 50 broad, 
and 4 stories high, with rooms for scholars ; a chapel 
with recitation rooms above, both of stone ; and an eat- 
ing liall of brick, 120 feet long, with a piazza facing the 
parade. For the convenience of the friends of students, 
who may wish to take up their lodgings in the neigh- 
bourhood, the second story is partly designed for their 
use. 

The course of instruction resembles, in general, that 
pursued at West Point ; but it is not like that under the 
patronage of the United States. The scholars wear the 
dress of Caaets, and are regularly drilled to the use of 
small arms and cannon. The regulations of the school 
are on a military plan, sentinels are posted at the gates 
and the scholars are rarely permitted to leave the yard. 
From the top of the Chapel is a delightful view of a 
large extent of country, highly varied by cultivation, as 
well as the natural form of its surface. Mount Tom is 
seen northward, and Indian Hill, immediately west, de- 
rives its name, as is supposed, from its having been a 
watch post in ancient times. 

The Qicarries of Freestone., on the opposite shore, have 
furnished a valuable building material for some years, 
and have been worked to a considerable extent. 

Manufactories. Cotton, Woollen, and Rifle Manu- 
factories, are near the bridge at the south end of the 
street. Col. North's Pistol Manufactory is situated 
two or three miles west of the town. There are also 
Starr's Rifle Factory, Johnson's Sword Factory, the 
Pameacha Woollen, Spalding's Tape, and Pratt's Comb 
factories. There are various pleasant rides in this neigh- 
bourhood., particularly to two picturesque Water-Falls in 
Middlefieid. In the direction of one of them is Laurel 
Grove., where the road is shaded for near half a mile 
with those shrubs, which, in the season, are covered with 
flowers. The environs of this place afford other agree- 
able rides. 



246 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

The Lead Mine is about two miles below the town, on 
the south shore of the river, accessible only on foot or 
in a boat, where are several old shafts, which were 
sunk in the Revolutionary war, in a slate rock. The 
ore is sulphuret of lead, in veins of quartz, partly crys- 
tallized, and aifording- a few specimens of fiuate of lime, 
and other materials. 

The Cobalt Mine is about five miles east, in Chatham, 
at the foot of Rattle Snake Hill. It is not worth work- 
ing, at the usual price of the metal. Specimens of 
peach-bloom of Cobalt may be picked up among the 
rubbish. Just southerly from it is a very pretty water 
fall, about thirty feet high. 

A number of German families live in the neighbour- 
hood ; the descendants of miners, who came from Eu- 
rope some years ago to work the mine. 

Upper Houses, 

a village of Middletown, 2 miles above. 

From a hill 1 mile from this is a very pleasant view 
towards the south, presenting the river, with the meadow 
and hills, as well as Middletown and the fine high grounds 
in its rear. The small divisions of the soil and the den- 
sity of the population, as well as the fertility of the 
ground, and the frequency of school houses and church- 
es, here show one of those interesting and beautiful 
scenes characteristic of Connecticut River, and which 
the traveller will find repeated all along its course far 
into New-Hampshire and Vermont. 

Rocky Hill, 5 miles, a parish of Wethersfield. About 
half a mile north of the tavern, you reach the brow of 
a hill, which commands a rich prospect of many miles 
of the Connecticut Valley. Wethersfield lies in front, 
and the variegated hills and plains around belong to nu- 
merous townships on both sides of the river, enclosed by 
ranges of distant high land, which direct the course of 
its channel. On the left, about 15 miles off, is the ridge 
of Talcott mountain ; and the two blue peaks in the- 



CONNECTICL'T STATK PRISON". 247 

north are Mounts Tom and Holyoke, near Northampton, 
at the distance of about 50 miles. 

Wethersfielu, 3 miles from Hartford. This place 
has a fine light soil, on an extensive level, probably once 
the bottom of a lake since drained by the deepening of 
the river's channel. It is peculiarly favourable to the 
culture of onions, which are exported in great quantities 
to various parts of the country, the West Indies, &lc. 

Wethersfield was one of the three earliest settlements 
made by white men in Connecticut : or rather it may 
strictly claim the precedence of all, for although houses 
were first built here, as well as at Hartford and Wind- 
sor in 1635, three or four men came to this place the 
year previous, and spent the winter. Depredations were 
committed on their settlements for the first few years ; 
but as tiiey were done by the Pequods, the destruction 
of that nation at Mystic Fort, by Capt. Mason, in 1636, 
put an end to them entirely, and this part of the river 
was never afterwards made the theatre of war. 

The Connecticut State Prison. 

The situation of this institution is healthy, retired, 
and convenient to the water and the great road. It was 
completed in 1817 ; and is worthy of the attention of 
those who feel an interest in the condition and prospects 
of the unhappy inmates of such edifices. What have 
heretofore been regarded as the necessary evils of prisons, 
will here be found greatly reduced ; and, in many re- 
spects, even with regard to the prisoners, converted into 
benefits. 

The modern improved principles of prison discipline 
liave no where produced so sudden and so beneficial a 
change as in the State of Connecticut. An old copper 
mine at Granby was for many years the State Prison, 
and was conducted on the old and vicious system. Here 
the Auburn system has been established, with some few 
deviations. 

The whole is under the direction of Mr. Pilsbury, a 
man of firmness, judgment, and humanity. The men 
z 



248 ROUTE L-P CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

are brought out to their work at signals given by the 
bell. They lodge in solitary cells, and are not permitted 
to converse together while at work. They take their 
food in their cells, and when going to and from work or 
prayers, are obliged to march with the lock step. No 
blows are allowed to be given by the officers except in 
self-defence. 

The Smiths' fires are supplied with Lehigh (Pennsyl- 
vania) coal for fuel ; and part of the heat is conducted 
away in pipes to warm the apartments. The cells are 
furnished with comfortable beds and bed clothes, and a 
bible for each. They are ranged in rows, and the keep- 
ers can look into them through grated doors ; at the 
same time the prisoners are not able to converse with 
each other. The effects of evil communication, so 
much and so banefu'ly cherished in our old prisons, are 
thus effectually prevented. Neither officers nor convicts 
are allowed to ut-e ardent spirits. The inmates are kept 
clean and comfortably clad ; and while shut up from 
society, whose laws they have infringed, they are not de- 
based and rendered more vicious and dangerous by bad 
example or evil council ; but are usefully and health- 
fully employed, instructed, invited to return to virtue 
and respectability, and consigned for a large portion of 
the time to solitude, and undisturbed reflection. 

HARTFORD. 

Inns. Morgan's, Ripley's, the City Hotel, k,c. 

This is the sorni-capital of the state, and a place of 
considerable business, as well as one of the great points 
at which the principal roads concentrate. 

The Charter Oak. In the lower part of the town, in 
the street which runs east froni the south church, is the 
ancient and respectable seat of the Wyllys family, who 
were among the early settlers of Hartford, and have made 
a conspicuous figure in the history of the state, as well 
as of the town, by supplying the Secretary's office for a 
long course of time. This place is now owned by Mr. 
Bulklev, and has undergone considerable changes. The 



HARTFORD. 249 

principal object of curiosity here is, however, the fine old 
oak, which stands on the street in front. It is said to 
have been a forest tree before the land was cleared, yet 
it appears as firm and vigorous as ever. In a hole in its 
trunk was hidden the charter of the colony, when Sir 
Edmund Andross sent to demand it in 1687 ; and there 
it remained for some years. 

This interesting document is still preserved in the office 
of the Secretary of the state. 

The Asylum for the education of the Deaf and Dumb 
is about a mile west of the town, on Tower Rill. It 
was the earliest institution of the kind in America, and 
is under the directioii of a board cf directors, who pub- 
lish annual reports of its condition. Mr. Galiaudet, a 
gentleman who was sent to Europe to qualify himself 
for the purpose, is principal, and Mr. Le Clerc, a favour- 
ite pupil of the Abbe Sicard of Paris, occupies the next 
station. He is a man of superior talents although deaf 
and dumb. 

The principal building is large, ornamented with 
pilasters, and surrounded by a garden and pleasant 
grounds. The house oi" the superintendent is near by, 
and the whole enjoys a fine situation with a command- 
ing prospect and a healtJiy neighbourhood. 

The stranger will receive uncommon gratification, 
from a visit to this benevolent institution on the days 
appointed for the admission of visiters. The deaf and 
dumb are generally remarkable for close observation, 
readiness of apprehension, an eager thirst for knowledge, 
and a very retentive recollection ; and as all their in- 
struction, being communicated through the sight, can be 
obtained only by the strictest attention, and the abstrac- 
tion of the mind from every other subject, the appear- 
ance of a class absorbed in their lesson is calculated to 
produce feelings of an unusual and highly interesting 
character. 

Every deaf and dumb person soon forms a language 
of natural sigas, by which he is able to communicate the 
most necessary ideas on first arriving at the Asylum. He 
is then taught the alphahet in use here, which is made 



250 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

by the fingers of one hand ; after which the names ol' 
visible objects are easily spelled, and the order of their 
letters committed to memory. Absent objects and ab- 
stract ideas are communicated by many ingenious devi- 
ces, which it is impossible here to describe ; and arbitra- 
ry signs are adopted to represent such as may require 
them. Definitions are very extensively resorted to ; and 
they are always of the most strictly logical character. 
Indeed the whole system is one of the most complete 
and beautiful of the kind ever formed on philosophical 
principles. 

The number of scholars is about 130. Some of them 
are supported by a fund belonging to the institution, and 
others by the states of Massachusetts, New-Hampshire, 
&;c. Similar institutions exist in the city and state of 
New-York, Philadelphia, &c. and one has lately been 
provided for in Kentucky. 

The Retreat for the Insane is a little south of the city, 
and makes a handsome appearance, being a stone build- 
ing 150 feet long and 50 wide, the wings having three 
stories, and the main building 4. It is capable of con- 
taining about 50 patients, and is warmed by flues. The 
grounds connected with the institution include about 17 
acres. 

Washington College is situated west of the main street, 
in the south part of the town. It is an Episcopal insti- 
tution, and has at present two stone buildings erected : 
one for the students, 150 feet long, 4 stories high, with 
accommodations for 96 pupils ; and a chapel, which has 
also rooms for recitation, the library, &c. The college 
bills are .^oS 50 per annum in ail ; and the students 
board in private families at the rate of |1 50 per week. 

14 acres of land belong to the institution, part of which 
are devoted to the garden with its green-house. 

[Montevideo^ the seat of Daniel Wadsworth, Esq. en- 
joys a charming situation on a mountain nine miles 
westward. 

Tariffville is a little manufacturing place several miles 
north of that spot, near a romantic scene on Farm- 
ington River, where it passes through the mountain. 
Here is a Carpet Manufactory.] 



travelling in new-exngland. 251 

Ueiviarks to the Traveller at Hartford. 

From Flartford there are stage coaches running in va- 
rious directions : north, one on each side of Connecticut 
River ; north-east, to Boston ; east, to Providence ; sovth, 
to Nevi'-Haven and New-York, (besides the daily steam 
boats to the latter place ;) ivest, to Litchfield and Pough- 
keepsie ; and north-west, to Ail-any. 

The road to Boston leads through Stafford Springs, 
(20 miles,) and Worcester, but is otherwise very uninter- 
esting and quite hilly. (^See next p'-'ge.^ 

The traveller in New-England is advised to take the 
route up Connecticut River, which is the most fertile, 
wealthy, and beautiful tract of the country ; and to re- 
turn by the way of Boston and Providence. This is the 
route we propose to pursue ; but the traveller can vary 
from it as he pleases. He will find such information as 
this little volume is able to afford him by referring to 
the index. 

The fertility of the meadows in the Connecticut Val- 
ley is almost proverbial ; and after what the stranger 
has seen of its banks at Middletown and Hartford, he 
will learn with gratification that neither the soil nor the 
beauty of the cultivation degenerates for several hun- 
dred miles northward. The whole country is thickly 
populated : neat and beautiful villages are met with 
at intervals of a few miles ; and the general intelligence 
derived from universal education gives an elevated as- 
pect to society. The accommodations for travellers are 
generally very comfortable, and sometimes uncommonly 
good and elegant ; the scenery is ever new and varying ; 
many places have traits of interest in their history ; and 
the communication is easy, from many points of the 
route, with the principal places on the east and west. 
Besid'3s ail this, the roads are pecuUarly fine, for they 
generally run along the river's bank, which is almost 
without exception level and pleasant, and formed of a 
soil well fitted to the purpose. 

The western side of the river is generally to be prefer- 
red ; but as there are good roads on both sides, and some 



252 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVEK. 

villages and other objects worthy of equal notice on the 
eastern shore, and good ferries or bridges are to be met 
with every few miles, it will be agreeable occasionally 
to cross and re-cross. Those who travel along the course 
of the Connecticut twice, would do well to go up on one 
side and return on the other. This is the most direct 
route to the White Hills or White Mountains of New- 
Hampshire. Those who go to Boston will pass through 
Worcester. 

The Improvement of the navigation of Connecticut 
River above Hartford has been seriously contemplated, 
on a combined system, for the last tv/o or three years ; 
and the legislatures of Vermont and Massachusetts 
have consented to an uniform plan. Several of the 
principal falls have been canalled and locked for 
boats for a number of years ; and they might be made 
to serve on the line. At present, however, nothing is in 
progress except a canal in the channel of the river at 
the Enjidd Fall.s^ 6 miles long, which is intended to ad- 
mit steam tow boats. When completed the traveller 
may make a pleasant and rapid excursion to Northamp- 
ton on the river, going to South fladley Falls in one 
steam boat, and onward in another. It was hoped this 
desirable route would be opened in 1828. 

Worcester is one of the finest villages in New-Eng- 
land. The country around it is rich and variegated, and 
the dwellings have an air of elegance which does great 
credit to the taste as well as tlie wealth of its inhabi- 
tants. Brick is extensively used in building. The court 
house, bank, &c. stand on the principal street ; and east of 
it the county house and the building of the 

American Historical Society. 

This is an institution formed by Mr. Isaiah Thomas, 
many years a printer in this place, for the truly impor- 
tant purpose of preserving every thing relating to the 
history, traditions, &c. of the country. He has made it 
a donation of his valuable library, between 7 and 8000 
volumes, with many files of newspapers ; and built at his 



EAST HARTFORD. iZol! 

own expense the handsome edifice in which it is deposit- 
ed. Many interesting curiosities have also been col- 
lected iiere from all parts of the country, but the institu- 
tion has not funds to support a keeper, and the cabinet 
lias not (unless, perhaps, recently) been opened to the 
public. The building cost about $8000. 

[For the Blackstone Canal which will connect this 
place with Providence, see Index.] 

[Sutton., Worcester Co. There is a remarkable chasm 
in the rocks in this place, at a distance from the road, 
which appears to have been produced by some tremen- 
dous convulsion in the earth. It appears like a wild and 
broken ravine, half a mile long, enclosed on each side hy 
irregular wails of granite, rising to a height of ai)out 115 
feet perpendicular, and so near as to threaten the visiter 
who explores the place below. The opening is only 
from 75 to TOO feet v/ide ; and the opposite masses of 
rock corresponds as if forcibly torn asunder, as they doubt- 
less have been. On the brow of one of the precipices is 
a mass of granite estimated to weigh 5000 tons. The 
depth is so great, and the shelter from the sun so entire 
in many places, that ice may be found at almost any 
season of the year. 

Watchusett Hills, 16 miles W. N. W. of Worcester, 
and 52 W. by N. of Boston, are estimated at nearly 
3000 feet above the sea, and ascended by an easy path. 
The spectator looks down on a surrounding scene of 
wooded mountains, below which are ponds and farms, 
and a view over cultivated and inhabited regions.] 

[From Worcester to Leicester, 5 miles ; East Brook- 
field, 7 ; Brookfield, 3 ; Ware Factory Village, 5 ; Bel- 
cliertown, 10 ; Northampton, 15.] 

Route up Connecticut River. 

Leaving Hartford, 

The State Arsenal is seen on the right hand, a mile 
from the city ; and many pleasant views are enjoyed, 

[East Hartford, opposite Hartford, has a sandy soil, 
but the street, as well as that of East Windsor.next north 



254 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

of it, is shaded with rows of fine elms. The road crosses 
Podunk Brook by a small bridge, about four miles from 
Hartford, on the north bank of which, on the left hand, 
was once the fort of the powerful tribe of Podunk In- 
dians, who had their settlements on this winding stream, 
and some of their broken implements are occasionally 
found in the soil. The nation was so powerful, that 
Uncas, Sachem of the Mohegans, was once daunted by 
the show of their force, although he had marched to at- 
tack them with his army, and afterwards chose to in- 
timidate them by the following stratagem : he sent one 
of his Indians to burn a Pequod wigwam, in the night, 
near the fort, who then fled, as he was directed, leaving 
some Mohawk arms on the ground. This made the Pe- 
quods believe that that nation had leagued with Uncas, 
according to an intimation be had before given, and they 
immediately sued for peace. 

[BissePs tavern, 8 miles from Hartford. In going to 
the ferry, the road passes tlie Bissol farm, one of the 
finest in the country.] 

Windsor. 

It has been mentioned before that this place was set- 
tled as early as 1635. A few months after the building 
of the fort, (probably a block house,) the Dutch garrison 
at Hartford made a secret march against it, expecting to 
take it by surprise ; but on arriving at the place they 
found reason to give up their enterprise, and returned 
without firing a gun. The country was formerly very 
populous in Indians, the six square miles of which the 
town was formed, and which extended on both sides of 
the river, containing ten separate sachemdoms, or petty 
Indian tribes. 

There is a school established in this town on the Fel- 
lenberg plan, in which agriculture is taught both theo- 
retically and practically, a good farm adjoining it being 
open to the examination and experiments of the students. 

The seat of the late Chief Justice Ohver Ellsworth 
stands on the east side of the street, above the town, nine 



vSlMUiNG FIELD. r^ij,!' 

niiles above Hartford. It is disting-uished by columns, 
and surrounded by trees. He was born in a bouse oppo- 
site. He was in Europe as minister for the United States 
to France. 

After turning- a corner a little beyond this place, the 
new road runs north by a tavern, while the old one, 
across a sand plain, keeps straight on. The former is 
recomuiended, as it passes for several miles along- the 
bank of Connecticut River. 

Warehouse Point, in Enfield, is seen on the east side. 
Here vessels are built, and the place carries on a little 
trade. 

The Canal of 6 miles to pass the falls in this place, 
was spoken of at Hartford. 

SUFFIELD 

is a very pleasant town about a mile west of the road, 
and has a good inn, and a mineral spring in its vicinity, 
which has been the resort of considerable company. The 
village street runs along the ridge of a long and beauti- 
ful hill, with neat houses and white fences on both sides, 
and the hoiiie lots sloping east and west towards the 
low ground. Some of the houses are larg-e and elegant. 

SuFFiELD Springs. About a mile south-west of the 
street is a mineral spring of slightly sulphureous qualities. 
A house has been built there about 20 years, which has 
accommodations for 50 persons, with baths of different 
descriptions. The spring- is in swampy land, and its 
qualities are considered valuable, particularly in cases 
of cutaneous disorders. The place is }»leasant, in the 
midst of a rich rural scene, with a pretty flower garden, 
&c. calculated to render it an agreeable resort, whicJi it 
will, no doubt, in due time become. 

If it is intended to stop for the night within a few 
miles, the best inn is the Columbian Hotel, at Springfield, 
on the east side of the river. To reach it in going north, 
turn off to the right tlirough the meadows, some time 
after passing Westlield River, which will lead directly to 
the Springfield bridge. This is substantially built, and 
^vell protected bv a roof. 



25b' route up connecticut uiver, 

Springfield. 

Columbian Hotel. 

This is a flourishing town, standing at the foot of a 
high hil], the side of which is ornamented with fine build- 
ings, the residences of some of the wealthier inhabitants, 
and the top occupied by the United States Armory. This 
establishment occupies a large space of ground, and com- 
mands a fine view. The buildings containing the work- 
shops for manufacturing small arms, the arsenal, bar- 
racks, &c. are surrounded by a high wall ; and the habi- 
tations of the workmen, seen in several neighbouring 
streets, are generally neat houses with small gardens. 
Some of the principal buildings within the walls were 
burnt about four years ago, but have since been rebuilt, 
viz. three buildings, each 120 feet long, one of which is a 
store house of arms. Access may be obtained ; but here 
is not room to give a particular description of the estab- 
lishment, which bears a general resemblance to oth- 
ers of this kind in the country, although it is the lar- 
gest in size. The number of workmen required, which is 
about 260, has a favourable effect on the business and 
prosperity of the place. About 13000 muskets are made 
here annually, or 60 a day. There were manufactured 
here, in 1825, 15000 muskets, 15000 screw drivers, 13000 
wipers, 1500 ball screws, 1500 spring vices, and 437 
arm chests. Expenditure, 1 179,983. The manufacto- 
ries on Mill River, a little south of the armory, are vari- 
ous and well worthy of observation, at least, in passing. 
A road that runs along the bank, passes a number of 
flour mills, &c. belonging to individuals, besides the Up- 
per, Middle, and Lower Water Shops, connected with 
the armory. There are three dams of hewn stone, and 
the buildings, in plan and construction, are well calcula- 
ted for service and durability. Tlic water shops contain 
in all 18 water wheels, 10 trip hammers, 28 forges, '9 
coal houses, and have connected with them several hou- 
ses and stores. 

Springjield Factory Village is a new and very exten- 
sive manufacturing place. It is on the Chicopee River, 



SOUTH IIAOLEY FALLS. ilol 

a lid a stage coach passes through it every other day, oh 
the road to Belchertown. 

The town is ornamented with many fine elms and other 
trees ; and there are two very handsome churches. It 
was orginally considered within tlie limits of Connecticut 
Colony, but at length incorporated witli Massachusetts. 
A tribe of Indians lived for some years on Fort Hill ; but 
being won over to King Philip's part\% in 1675, they as- 
sumed a hostile air, fired upon some of the inhabitants 
who were going to their fort, and burnt a part of the 
town. 

In 1786, during the rebellion of Shays, he attacked 
the armory, at the head of a strong party of undisciplin- 
ed men. Gen. Shepard, who had command at the place, 
attempted to dissuade them from their attempt, and 
finally drove them off by firing twice. The first shot, 
over their heads, dispersed the raw troops, and the se- 
cond drove off the remainder, who, being about 200 re- 
volutionary soldiers, did not desist until they had lost a 
few of their men. Tiiis was the first check the insurrec- 
tion received, which was put down witiiout much subse- 
quent trouble. 

Wilbraham, 7 or 8 miles west from Springfield, con- 
tains a PVeslei/an Academy. The pujtils are instruct- 
ed in agriculture on a farm, and in the Mechanic arts in 
a shop, belonging to the institution. There are teachers 
in various branches of literature, science, and the arts. 

West Springfield has a fine street, shaded with 
large elms, and containing some handsome houses. It 
is 26 miles from Hartford, and about 17 miles from North- 
ampton. There is a fine view from the road on the brow 
of a hill a little north of the town, near a church, which 
overlooks the river and an extent of country on each side, 
with Mounts Tom and Holyoke in front. 

South Hadlev Falls. 

The village and locks are on the east side of the river. 

The whole fall of the river at South Hadley is 52 feet, 

but at the lower falls only 32. There is a canal 2^ miles 



258 KOUTK CP COx\NJiCTICUT RIVER, 

loiic; on tlie east side of the river, cut through a slate 
rock for a considerable distance, and in some places very 
deep. The dam is 8 feet high. There are five locks 
near the tavern, and one above. The toll here is 90 cents. 
Tiiere is a ferry here, which is safe, but the vi^ater runs 
very swiftly. 

For several miles before reaching Mount Tom, the 
road runs along the bank of the river, showing its banks, 
in many places, roughened with rocks. Its channel is in 
one place crossed by the dam, which turns the water into 
the South Hadley Canal. The river makes an abrupt 
tarn some miles above, running between Mount Tom on 
the south and Mount Holyoke on the north ; and when 
the scene opens again, it discloses a charming and ex- 
tensive plain, formed of the meadows on the river's bank, 
and evidently once the site of a large lake, when the wa- 
ter was restrained by the barrier between the mountains. 
This plain is one of the richest, and by far the most ex- 
tensive and beautiful on the river. 

Northampton. 

This tov/n is situated at the western side of the plain, 
a mile from the river, and is a favourite place of resort 
for travellers ; as it is one of the most beautiful of the 
New-England vill.\ges, and is surrounded by a charming 
country, and lies near to Mount Holyoke, which com- 
mands a view of the whole. The streets are irregular, 
but some of them shady and delightful in summer, being 
also ornamented with many neat houses. It is a place 
of considerable business ; and the soil makes valuable 
farms.* 



'^ Canal. — Mv. Hurd's estimate of the whole expense of the 
Hampshire and Hampden Canal is given as follows : 

Canal, |204,2IO 

Feeders, ..... 44,856 

Cost of lands and contingent expenses, 18,500 

Total expense, ^$267,566 

The length of the cnnal is 29 1-2 miles, divided into 5t> 
sections of 168 rods each. When finished it will be particu- 
larlv described in a future edition. 



NORTH A ill I' TUX. 2o9 

W arnor's and Lyman's were the oul}^ Jnns here in 
1827 ; but a very large hotel was built in 1828, which 
commands a fine view, and is very commodious. 

Round Hill is a beautiful eminence just west of the 
town, where is the school of Messrs. Cogswell and Ban- 
croft, for the education of boys. The branches of learn- 
ing taught there are numerous, and there are instrnc- 
ters for the French, Spanish, and German languages. 
Great attention is paid to the hours of recreation as well 
as of study, and the pupils are rarely to be seen out of 
the precincts of the school. The place itself is very- 
pleasant : commanding fine air, fine scenes, and perfect 
retirement. 

On the eastern declivity of the hill stands the house 
of the Stoddard family, an ancestor of which was a man 
of great talents and influence in this part of the country. 
In King-street, towards the north-east from that spot, is 
standing the house in which President Edwards, Sen. 
lived. President Edwnrd.'-, Jun. and Dr. Dwight were 
born, and David Brainerd died. It is very old and shaded 
b}' two elms. On the east side of the main street, just 
south of the brook, is the house of the late Governor 
Strong. 

Shepherd's Woollen Manufactory is 3 miles west of tlie 
town. It gives employment to 112 persons, has a capita.! 
of ^'130,000, and produces 37,500 yards of superfine 
and second qualit}^ Broadcloth in a year. About 75,000 
lbs. of first rate American and Saxon wool is used an- 
nually, and Cook's Woollen Manufactory works up 
ahout 25,000 lbs. of wool. 

The Lead Mine. 

In Southampton, at the distance of 8 miles from this 
place, is a lead mine, which will be regarded with inter- 
est by the curious and scientific. A considerable part of 
the road to it is good, and the place is wild and rough. The 
following extract from the .Tournal of Science and the 
Arts, t\xrnishes all nccespary information on the subject. 

'' This vein declines 10 or 15 degrees from a perpendicn 



260 ROUTE UP COANECTICUT EIVi:R. 

lar, is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, and traverses granite and 
other primitive rocks. It lias been observed at intervals 
from Montgomery to Hatfield, a distance of 20 miles. 
In Southampton it has been explored many rods in 
length, to tlie depth of 40 or 50 feet ; and the galena, 
which is the principal ore, has been found in masses 
from a quarter of an nich to a foot in diameter. At the 
depth above mentioned, the water became so abundant 
that it vv as thought adviseabie to abandon a perpendicu- 
lar exploration, and to descend to the foot of a bill on 
the east, nearly 80 rods from the vein, and attempt a 
horizontal drift, or adit ; and ever since its commence- 
ment, seven or eight years ago, the working of the vein 
has ceased. The rocks that have been penetrated, reckon- 
ing from the mouth of the drift inwards, are geest, the 
red and gray slates of the coalforniation, v^dth thin beds 
of coal, and mica slate, and granite, alternating. 

The mouth of this drift is 4 or 5 feet Vi^^ide, and about 
3 feet above the surface of the water. The v/ater is 
deep enough the whole length of it, to admit the pas- 
sage of a loaded boat. The person wishing to explore 
this internal canal, must fire a gun at the entrance, or 
beat heavily with a sledge on tlie timbers that support 
the soil ; in 10 or 15 minutes, he will perceive a gentle 
undulation of the water, and soon after, a boat ad- 
vancing with lighted lamps and a rower ; having seat- 
ed himself on the bottom of this boat, and provided 
himself with an additional garment, he is prepared for 
his subterranean expedition. If he looks back, after 
liaving advanced several hundred feet, the light at the 
entrance v/ili appear diminisiied to the size of a candle ; 
and before he reaches the extremity, it becomes invisi- 
ble. About half way from the entrance to the end of 
the drift, he will pass a shaft, down which a small brook 
is turned, for the purpose of aiding the ventilator. 

The miners do not quit the drift when they blast, but 
retire behind a breast work thrown up for the purpose. 
One man has been an inmate of that dark recess eight 
or ten years without suffering in his health. 

3'. very mineralogist passing that way, will of coarse 



MOUNT UOLVOKK. 261 

visit this drift. Intniligenl oentlemon, without profes- 
sional views, and oven ladies, not unfro([ueutly enter 
the cavity," 

Mount Ho/.yokk. 

The ascent of this mountain has become very fash- 
ionable, perhaps more so than any sinilar enterprise 
in this country, if we except that of the Catskill Moun- 
tains in New- York. The heiglit is said to be 800 feet ; 
and there is a (vood carriage road the greater part of the 
way up, as well as a building of considerable size on tiie 
summit, for the accommodation of visiters, who resort 
thither every season, usually in parties. 

There is a short road through the meadows, directly ta 
Lyman's ferry, at the foot of the mountain, which is fur- 
nished with a good horse-boat. But it may be found 
pleasanter to cross the bridge at the upj)er end of the 
town, pass through Hadley Meadows, and down on the 
eastern bank. The path up the mountain turns off near 
a small old house, and another opposite the tavern near 
the ferry. After following the latter to its termination, 
you dismount, secure your horses to the trees, and walk 
up a rude stone staircase on the right. Refreshments 
will be f(>und at the house whicii occupies the summit ; 
and whicii opens on both sides, in sucli a manner as to 
command an unincerrupted view of the rich and varied 
landscape below. Those who wish to enjoy the luxury 
of seehig day break and the sun rise over such a scene, 
may find a shelter here for the night. 

South-east, the viev/ is less interesting, and may 
therefore be first examined. The country is undulating^ 
and the soil generally poor ; yet several villages are dis- 
covered at a distance, particularly South Hadley, which 
lies immediately below. Southv/ardly is seen Connec- 
ticut river, retiring under the shade of Mount Tom, whi- 
tened below by the Soulh Hadley Falls ; beyond which 
is the hill at Springiield. The river makes several turns, 
and on the horizon are two very distant peaks, which are 
supposed to be East and West Rocks, at New-Haven, 
about 70 miles distant. 



262 ROUTK Ul' CONNKCTICUT RIVEK,. 

North-east is seen Monadnoc Mountain, in New- 
Hampshire ; and tlic view towards the east is interrupt- 
ed by the neighbouring peaks of Mount Holyoke. 

North, 3'^ou look up the charming valley of the Con- 
necticut ; bordered by distant ranges of hills and moun- 
tains, varied by a few isolated peaks, covered with the 
richest coat of vegetation, and scattered v/ith villages 
and innumerable farm houses. The river makes a beau- 
tiful serpentine course ; from where it first appears at 
the foot of Sugar Loaf Mountain, and Mount Toby,* 
until it reaches the village of Hadley, which lies in full 
view ; and then taking a bold sweep to the west, and 
flowing 4i miles, it returns to the end of that village, 
only a mile distant from where it first meets it. The 
whole peninsula is ricli and fertile, and covered with cul- 
tivated fields of wheat, corn, grass, &c. without being 
disfigured by fences, according to the custom prevalent 
hereabouts ; and is the richest sight upon the river, par- 
ticularly when viewed in connexion with the scene im- 
mediately below, v/here the river flows on, almost under 
our feet, and the western shore presents the extensive 
Northampton Meadows, a mile wide. Following the 
current with the 637^6, in the 

West-south-west, it forms a still more remarkable 
peninsula, although one of inferior size : the Hockanum 
Betid being a turn measuring 3.1 miles in circuit, while the 
isthmus is only 46 rods across, or 130 yards. In the 
compass of this view, from the north to the west and 
south, numerous village spires are seen. With level fields, 
orchards, and gardens, almost without number ; and the 
whole scene is so bounded witli mountainous ridges, as 



* In this mountain, at a place 3 miles N. east of Sunderland 
village, is a remarkable cavern, running- through ihe moun- 
tain. It is 12 rods long, 65 feet deep, and from 2 to 20 feet 
wide. There is a mass of pudding stone on each side, which 
appear as if they had been rent apart. There is an opening 
at the top. A smaller cave opens near by it, 45 feet deeo, 
10 wide, and 130 loiii;. 



IVIOUXT nOLYOKE. 2§"3 

10 seem to justify tlie opinion of o-eolog-ist!?, who say that 
it was once covered witli an oxteiisive lake, until the 
water forced a passage between Mounts Tom and Holy- 
oke. 

Northampton is seen ahout west-north-west, with 
Round Hill ; and towards the riffht, the top of Saddle 
Mountain, in the distance. There are also others still 
further north, particularly Haystack and Bare Moun- 
tain. 

More than 30 church steeples may be counted here by 
taking advantage of different kinds of weafher. 

In point of iiistory, that part of the Connecticut Valley 
immediately under the eye, belongs to the third di- 
vision of settlements, calling Plymouth and Massachusetts 
Bay the first ; Windsor, Hartford, Welhersfield, &c. the 
second, Northampton, Hadley, and Hatfield, were set- 
tled in 165.3, and remained the frontier posts in this 
direction till after Philip's war, during which they suffered 
severely from constant alarms, and the loss of inhabitants. 
The Indians who had sold the land on which the towns 
were built, had each a spot assigned them v/iihin a short 
distance of the palisades with which the new settlements 
were surrounded, and lived in peace and good faith until 
excited by Philip; after which all the towns were at dif- 
ferent times attacked b}'^ them, and some of them re- 
peatedl}'. During the French wars, on May 13th, 1704, 
the Indians fell upon a little settlement at the foot of 
Mount Tom, and killed 20 persoiis, more than half of 
whom were children ; and a tradition states, though 
without designating the precise time, that a captive wo- 
man was once brought to the top of tlie niountain where 
we stand, and scalped. 

Hadley was attacked by the Indians while the inhabi- 
tants v.'ere at church, and was near falling into their 
hands, when a stranger, a venerable old man, made his 
appearance, and by his active resistance, encouraged 
them to repel the enemy. It was not known at the time 
^yhohe was, or whither he went ; but there is now little 
doubt that he was Goflc, one of king- Charles's judges, 
who was secreted for a length of time m this town, and 
A. a2 



264 nnVTK UP CONNECTICUT UIVEU, 

of whom we have already had occasion to speak at New - 
Haven. The remahis ot'liis coffin, it is believed, were 
discovered a few years since, in the cellar wall of a house 
near the present academy, which was formerly inhabited, 
by one of hi^ friends. The burning of Deerficld, we shall 
speak of on arriving' at that town. 

Stage coaches run to Boston and Albany in a day ; 
and up and down the river daily. 

Hadley, 

3 miles. (See a few lines above.) 

Hatfield, 

1 mile further, on the west side of the river. This 
tov/n is niucJi devoted to the wintering of cattle raised 
on the neighbouri)ig hilly country. The grass is very 
fine, and tlie barns are large ; which, with the appear- 
ance of the houses, give the place an air of substantial 
agricultural wealth. The cattle arc bought, stabled, 
and fatted. 

[Amherst 

is situated on elevated ground, 5 miles from Hadley ; 
and off the river towards the north-east. 

Amherst College. Although of recent institution, 
this ranks among the most respectable in New-England. 
The situation occupied by the buildings is delightful, 
commanding an rich, extensive and varied view, partly 
over the meadows of Connecticut River, with moun- 
tains particularly mentioned a few pages back, seen 
inditTerent directions. The retired situation is highly 
favourable to study and good order, as its elevation and 
pure air are conducive to liealth. It contained 152 
students in 1826, and in 1827, 209. The president, Dr. 
Humphries, is also professor of mental and moral Philo- 
sophy and Divinity. There are six other professor?, and a 
teacher of French and Spanish, a teacher of mathema- 
tics, and a tutor of Latin and Greek. 



The Aiwni:r..sT Academy is a large private establish- 
iBcnt for the education of boys. It is about 3 miles dis- 
tant; t!ie building ij elegant, the instructers are of a high 
character, and the system is formed on Ihe improved 
principles. The modern Greek pronunciation has been 
adopted here for tlie ancient language, under tlie instruc- 
tion of Mr. Perdicari, a Grecian by birth ; and this judi- 
cious example is likely to be followed in other institu- 
tions,] 

The Suf^AR Loaf is an isolated hill of a conical form, 
rising in front as we proceed, A fine view is enjoyed 
from the summit, where has recently been erected a 
house for visiters. Deerfield lies nojth of it about 3 
miles ; and the way by which we approach it, lies nearly 
along the old road which led thither througli the wilder- 
ness, in 1675, when it was deserted by the settlers ; and 
Capt. Lothrop was despatched, with a body of 80 soldiers 
and wagoners, to bring off the grain. At the foot of this 
mountain is the small village of Bloody Brook, (impro- 
perly called Muddy Brook.) and near the spot where a 
bridge crosses the stream, Capt. Lothrop was ambushed 
by about 800 Indians. The place was then a marnhy 
piece of ground ; and some traces of the road, which was 
formed of logs, are still to be seen, running through the 
fields without crossing at the bridge. The convoy halt- 
ed at this place ; and the soldiers were generally engaged 
in gathering grapes from the vines which ran on the 
trees, having left their muskets on the ground, when the 
Indians fired upon them. Capt. Lotijrop gave orders 
that the men should disperse, and fire from behind Iho 
trees ; but they were all cut off" except 8 or 10. This 
massacre was one of the most calamitous which ever 
occurred in New-England, taken into view with the 
small number of inhabitants at the time : as the company 
consisted of young men, from the principal families in 
the eastern tov^ns. There is a stone now lying near the 
fence, west of the brook, which was brought there some 
years since for a monument, but not raised. 

That part of the meadow we pass through in ap- 
proaching Dcerfield was the scene of several skirmishes 



266 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

with the Indians at different times, as the place was a 
frontier for many years, although it was twice burnt and 
deserted. 

Deerfield. 

In 1704, which was the period of its last destruction, a 
large body of Indians, led on by a few Frenchmen from 
Canada, came upon the town before day-light. It was 
winter, and the snow crust was strong- enough to bear 
them ; they had secreted themselves on a hill north-west 
from Deerfield, and sent in a scout. The houses were 
all entered but one, the inhabitants made captives, and 
all, except a few, taken off" to Canada. One of the hou- 
ses is standing at this day, a little north of the church; and 
the hole may still be seen in the door, which the Indians 
hacked with their tomahawks, and then fired through, as 
well as the marks of several bullets in the eastern room, 
one of which went through the neck of a woman and 
killed her. A young man and his bride leapt from a 
window of the chamber above ; and tliough the latter 
was unable to walk, in consequence of spraming her an- 
cle, the former fled, at her urgent request, and, meeting 
with some troops on his way, brought them up in time 
to drive ofl:' the Indians, but not to retake any of the 
captives. 

A house next this was valiantly defended by seven 
men ; and the dwelling of Mr. Williams, the minister, 
was taken, and he and his family carried to Canada. 
Most of the people were ransomed ; but a daughter of 
Mr. W. became attached to the savage life, married a 
chief, and left children. Mr. WiJliams, missionary to 
the Indians at Green Bay, was one of her descendants. 

Some marks of the old picquet may be traced in the 
rear of the house, which is supposed to present the same 
appearance as in old time, excepting that the kitchen, 
&c. have since been built, and the front and rear have 
been covered. 

There is an academy in this town, but it is not in a 
very flourishing condition. 



turner's fall.s. 207 

East from this place, are several spurs projecting from 
the hill, on one of whicli was formerly a fort, for the 
protection of the Dcerfield Indians against the Mohawks. 

GiiEEM'iELD, 3 miles. Here the stage coach passes 
on a road from Boston to Albany. The country west is 
liighly picturesque. Just south of the town, Deerfield 
river appears to have at some period formed a lake of 
some extent, with an outlet towards the east, where its 
cliannel may be seen, with the place of an old cascade, 
and the rocks bored out by the rushing of the water. 
Tlie channel nov*^ lies throuch a deep cut between two 
hiils-. 

[TuRxNer's Falls are on Connecticut River, two or 
tlireo miles east from Greenfield. It is necessary to 
leave the road to see them ; but they are of considerable 
height and beauty, and history has rendered the place 
memorable, from an important battle fought there to- 
wards the close of Philip^s war. The v/ay by which 
we approach is nearly over the same ground, where 
Capt. Turner marched, with his body of men, in tho 
year 1676, when he went to attack a large body of In- 
dians, assembled at an Indian fort, a quarter of a mile 
above the falls ; and by which he also returned, after a 
successful battle, pursued by his surviving enemies. 

Philip, having been driven from the sea coast and the 
neighbourhood of the English settlements, by the active 
operations of Capt. Church, Capt. Mosely, Capt. Wheel- 
er, Szc. retired wiih some of his followers to the North- 
field Indians, v/ho held a position on a sandy hill, on tho 
north bank of tlie river. Here he was attacked in the 
night by tiie troops under Capt. Turner. The English 
left their horses on a hill, which descends to a brook 
emptying into the Connecticut below the falls ; and 
liaving mounted the opposite bank, proceeded near 
Avhere the present road leads, and marched up the sandy 
hill. The place has a swamp on two sides, and the 
river on the fourth. It is, indeed, overtopped by neigh- 
bouring hills ; but cannon, of course, were out of tho 
qnsytion in such a warfare. The Indians had held a 
feast that night, as some of their captives afterwards 



268 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

reported, and were generally asleep, so that the attack 
of the white men gave them a panic, and they fled to 
their boats, which tliey launched in such haste, that 
many forgot their paddles, and were carried over the 
falls. The rest, however, rallied before their enemies 
were out of their reach, and being joined by some from 
the island below the falls, pursued and harassed them 
about ten miles, to Deerfield. Bones are occasionally 
dug up near the spot, and a few years ago the remains of 
an old musket, a few silver coins, &c. were discovered 
among the rocks. 

This was the last and most severe blow Philip re- 
ceived, before he returned to his native country in Rhode 
Island, where he soon after terminated his dangerous 
life, and the war, which brought so many calamities upon 
New-England. 

The Canal. A dam of great height is built at the 
falls, to supply a canal, which extends two or three miles 
for boats and rafts. Some mills are a,lso established on 
the river's bank. The fall is divided by tv/o rude rocks, 
between which the water rushes in separate cataracts ; 
and the scenery below is wild, and not a little imposing. 
There is, however, no inn nearer than Greenfield.] 

Bernardston, 8 miles from Greenfield. 

Vernon. Within the limits of this township, which is 
the first in Vermont, was once Fort Dummer, one of 
a chain of forts, built for the protection of the couniry 
against the Canadian Indians, The place for some years 
was known on the river, by the name of Number One, 
being the first of four townshijis. 

Passing through a pretty village, v/ith several mills, 
after a few miles, we approach Brattleborough, south of 
which, east of the road, is a quarry, which furnishes a 
large quantity of slate ; where may be seen the mode 
of quarrying, splitting, shaping, and packing it for 
transportation. 

Brattleborouoh is a very pleasant village, situated 
on an elevated plain above the river, which, since the 
draining of the old lake in this place, has made two or 
three successive arches north of the town, as it has grn- 



BELLOWS'S FALLS. 269 

dually lowered its channel to the present level. At the 
bridge, over a small stream, are several manufactories ; 
and in the village is a large and comfortable stage house, 
whence coaches go to Boston, as well as west, north, 
and south. 

WestmIxXster. This is on a fine, extensive level ; and 
on the high land, on the opposite side of the river, is 

Walpole. Connecticut River being the dividing line 
between the two adjacent states, V/alpole is ni New- 
Hampshire. The situation is very commanding, and 
the summit of the hill, above the village, aiibrds a view 
of unusual extent and beauty. There is a spacious and 
well-kept inn at Walpole ; and stage coaches go hence 
to Boston, &c. It will be found the best place to stop at 
between Brattleborough and Charlestown. 

Three miles north is the farm of Col. Bellows, which 
contains 700 acres. The house of the proprietor enjoys 
a fine situation on a ridge rising from the meadow, near 
where stood the fort erected by Col. Bellows, when, 
about the middle of the last century, the place was oc- 
cupied and a settlement begun under the name of Town- 
ship No. 3. 

The changes which have taken place in the channel 
of the river, in the course of ages, are very manifest in 
passin'x along thi.s part of its course, particularly by the 
western bank ; in one place, which is now perhaps 100 
feet above the present level of the water, the current ap- 
pears once to have flowed, and to have formed the cata- 
ract, which has now retired a mile or more to the north. 

BelloW's's Falls. The height of this fall is inconsid- 
erable, but it is on the whole a striking object ; sur- 
rounded by rocky banks, and having an abrupt moun- 
tain on the eastern side. The place has also been much 
ornamented by art ; for, besides the village, with its 
neat white houses and handsome church, a canal has 
been dug round tiie falls, a bridge thrown over them, and 
tho rugged side of the mountain decorated with a hand- 
some country seat. 

The rocks are of the most firm and solid gray gra- 
nite, but arc much cut by the force of the current. la 



270 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

some places holes have been bored into them perpendi- 
cularly, two or three feet in diameter, and 12 or even 18 
feet deep. This is done by the motion given to loose 
stones by the eddies of the stream, and the gradual en- 
largement of the bore sometimes breaks oft' great masses 
of the rock. These falls were once the favourite resort 
of Indians during the fishing season. On the rock just 
below the bridge, are some remains of their rude attempts 
at sculpture, which represent the form of human faces ; 
and from one on the end of the stone, which appears to 
have suffered less from the attrition of the floods, it 
would seem as if they might once have been more finish- 
ed specimens of sculpture than they now appear, as that 
pi-esents considerable prominency and beauty of execu- 
tion. 

The Hunt Farm is about 3' miles from the falls, and 
is a large and valuable estate, the meadows being rich 
and beautiful in the extreme. The house and other 
buildings are large ; but the establishment is conducted 
on such a plan as would gratify an agriculturist. 

Charlestown. This is one of the prettiest little vil- 
lages in New-England : having a wide street, partly 
shaded with trees, and lined with neat houses, many of 
which speak the taste, as well as the easy circumstances 
of their proprietors. 

Tliis was called township No. 4. The fort, built for 
tlie defence of the place in 1743, stood on the gently 
rising ground a little south of the church, where the 
street runs : but not a vestige of it is to be discovered. It 
was most gallantly defended by Capt. Stevens, in 1747, 
against a large number of French and Indians : although 
repeatediy called upon to surrender, the garrison persist- 
ed in the defence, digging into the ground to shelter 
themselves from the enemy's fire, and, after several days, 
succeeded in driving them away. Capt. S. received a 
sword for his bravery. 

Jarvis's Farm at Wethersfield Bow, on the west side 
of the river, is very extensive, and contains a number of 
large buildings for dwellings, barns, stables, &c. princi- 
pally of brick. The land is generally fenced with tli<^^ 



THE GULF ROAO. ^71 

roots ot' pine trees, dragged from the ground, by which 
the soil is rendered iit for immediate cultivation, and un- 
encumbered. The proprietor of this farm is also the 
possessor of a large part of the township beside, and is 
very wealthy. 

The road oeirond affords some romantic scenes. The 
hills approach the river very nearly, and several views 
are caught between them, of the mountain behind Wind- 
sor, which is about 2000 feet in height, and divided into 
throe peaks, Vv^hence, it is said, it derived tiie name of 
Ascutney, which, in the Indian language, means Three 
Brothers. 

WINDSOR 

is a fine and flourishing town, in a very picturesque 
situation, particularly when viev/ed from the opposite 
side of the river ; and contains a good stage house, kept 
by Pettes, a number of stores, some elegant houses, two 
or three handsome churches, and the State Prison. 

This latter building is of granite, oa the hill in the 
western part of the town. It is planned after the old 
and ill-devised system, (see pages 108 and 247,) but has 
one thing in its construction worthy of imitation : the 
stones are secured against removal, by having six-pound 
cannon shot placed betv/een them, holes being cut into 
the stones to receive them. 

Mount Ascutney. A great part of the way up this 
mountain a road has been cat, and the traveller will be 
richly rewarded for the labour of the ascent. From the 
nature of the soil, he cannot, indeed, expect to behold a 
scene like that from Mount Holyoke ; but there is a great 
deal that is fine in the appearance of the surrounding 
country, rough, and interspersed with villages and culti- 
vated tracts, with the Connecticut winding through it. 

The Gulf Road. 

Those who are going westward from this part of the 
river, are counselled to take the Gulf Road to Burling- 



2*72 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT KIVEH. 

ton, on Lake Champlain, to which a stage coach nmy. 
Although tlie route is through the chain of the Green 
Mountains, the way is remarkably smooth and eas}^, fol- 
lowing the courses of the White and Onion Rivers, 
which have cut deep channels through the rocks. You. 
have, however, first to go 16 miles along the western 
bank of the Connecticut to 

White River. Here great quantities of lumber are 
brought down, sawed on the stream, and sent by the Con- 
necticut in rafts to the country below. Dartmouth 
College, at Hanover, is 3 miles north, and those who 
are going to the White Mountains, will of course pursue 
that route; (^ee p. 275 ;) but the following deviation is 
made for tlicse who are going to Lake Champuiin. 

[The road up the White River lies along tiie north 
bank, and passes through several beautiful and flourish- 
ing villages. The valley, though narrow, is formed of 
the richest soil, and wears the same aspect, in form, fer- 
tility, and population, v/ith the meadows of the Connec- 
ticut. This was one of the courses formerly chosen b}^ 
the Indians of the north in their commerce with those on 
the borders of that river, before the arrival of Europeans; 
and, with the exception of a short portage, between the 
White and Onion Rivers, they brought their furs from 
Canada, by water. During the Indian and French 
wars, this route was frequently used for more hostile 
purposes ; and captives were taken from these settle- 
ments so late as the Revolutionary war. The scenery 
is interesting and various all along the route. 

RoYALTON, a pretty village. This place was burnt, 
Oct. 16th, 1781, by 300 men. principally Indians, who 
came down from Canada. They killed two men and 
took away 6 prisoners to Montreal. 

Randolph is considered one of the most beautiful 
towns in Vermont, and a stage coach likewise passes 
that way. 

Gulf. The entrance of this remarkable passage from 
the east, is under the brow of an abrupt mountain, where 
a branch of White River flows along by the road in a 
gentle current, quite inadequate in its present coudi- 



MONTPELIEK. 273 

tioii to such effects as it has produced at some former pe- 
riod, in parting this enormous barrier. It was not, liow- 
ever, by the gradual action of a diminutive stream hke 
this, even when increased by the annual floods, that such 
changes were made ; bat by the pressure of a lake con- 
fined among the mountains, v/hich here first found a 
channel. 

I'he Gulf road extends 6 miles, and the ground is so 
level that it has been proposed to m^ake it the course of 
a canal. On the height of land is a pond, from which 
flows a stream into the valley. Part of it joins the White 
River, and part the Onion River, 

MoNTTELiER is the capital of Vermont, and a very 
pretty town. It contains tjie State House, a Court House ^ 
an Academy, and other public buildings.* 

A survey has lately been completed, of Onion River, 
from Lake Charnplain, at Burlington, to Montpelier, a 
distance of 38 miles. It is ascertained that a canal may 



* History of the State. — The first discovery of Vermont 
was made in 1G09, by Samuel Charnplain, who, after estab- 
li.*hiii<T a colony at Qwebec, proceeding up the rivers St. Law- 
rence and Sorel, explored and gave his ov/n name to the lake 
which washes the western part of the state. In 1724, the 
government of Massachusetts erected fort Duramer, in the 
town of Brattleborough, on Connecticut river. The first set- 
tlement in the western part of the state was commenced by 
the French in 1731, in the town of Addison, and at the same 
time they erected a fort at Crown Point. The government 
of New-Hampshire beg-an to make grants of townships with- 
in the present limits of Vermont in 1749, at which time the 
settlement of Bennington was commenced, and at the same 
time a violent controversy ensued betv.een the New-Hamp- 
BJiiro grants and the province of New-\ork. The first con- 
vention of the state met at Dorset, in 1776, and the first con- 
stitution wa.? adopted by a convention assembled at Windsor 
in July, 1777, but the organization of the government did not 
take place until March, 1778. 

The difficulties between Vermont and New- York were ami- 
cably settled in 1790, and the next year she was admitted into 
the confederacy of the states. 



274 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

be made on three levels, the amount of fall at three points 
bemg 394 feet. The height of Lake Champlain above 
the Hudson river, at Albany, is 86 feet. The elevation 
from Montpelier towards the Connecticut River, to Onion 
River Pond, v/as found to be 877 feet, and the fall thence 
to the mouth of Wells River on the Connecticut, 91 8'feet, 
maliing the v/liole lockage from Lake Champlain to the 
Connecticut 2189 feet. By another route through Dog 
River, where there is a less abundant supply of water, 
and White River, to the mouth of the latter, the lockage 
is 1468 feet. 

From Montpelier to Burlington, the road pursues 
the course of C-nion River nearly the whole distance, 
and affords a succession of hilly and mountainous scene- 
ry, such as is characteristic of the state. The river is 
in many places smooth and gentie, though occasionally 
interrupted by falls and rapids. 

On the road from Montpelier are two remarkable 
Water Falls, in the Onion River. They are so near the 
road that they will be heard in passing, and seen by 
taking a few steps. I'he Upper Fall is in the midst of a 
wild scene, the water pouring over broken rocks, between 
two high and perpendicular banks. The Lower Fall is 
of a peculiar character : the stream is broken into foam, 
and rushes by with great rapidity ; yet the channel is ob- 
structed in such a manner by several large rocks, that 
the stream is turned alternately from side to side, being 
clashed with violence against their bases and thus forced 
into a zig zag course. A few miles before reaching Bur- 
lington, the road leaves the river, which bends away 
further towards the north. At its mouth is an extensive 
and fertile meadow, which may bear a comparison with 
those on the Connecticut. 

Burlington is a large and beautiful town, and en- 
joys one of the finest situations on Lake Ciiamplain. 
The ridge of the hill, on the declivity of which it is built, 
commands an extensive view upon the lake, with the 
numerous mountains which border its western shores, 
and a large expanse of water on the right and left. Im- 
mediatelv below is the bav. bounded bv Jiigh land ; and 



DARTMOUTH COLLEGE. 275 

liie elegant dwelling's and beautiful gardens of the weal- 
thier inhabitants, ornament the foreground. 

The ^/eam Boats stop here on their way to Whitehall 
and St. John's (the route to Montreal ;) and the traveller 
is referi-ed to pages 179 and 229 for the objects on the 
lake in those directions. [Returning to Connecticut river.] 

JIANOVER. 

This village, 21 miles above Windsor, is remarkable 
as the seat of 

DARTMOUTH COLLEGE, 

an institution which Iiolds a very respectable rank for 
learning and influence, the number of its pupils, and the 
ability of its officers. It was founded for the education 
of Indians, and was named after William, Earl of Dart- 
mouth. It possesses a large tract of land, which, how- 
over, is unproductive ; and the college building, which 
is of wood, and not inhabited by the students, has an as- 
pect of decay. The cliapel is also of wood ; but several 
of the houses about the green are very neat, and the 
ground being elevated, the place is very pleasant. 

The Medical Institation is a brick building, a little 
north from the square. The number of scholars in the 
college is generally about 140. 

The road between Hanover and Haverhill, 18 miles, 
presents few objects of much interest ; the country not 
being thickly populated, and no villages intervening, ex- 
cept one, which has several very neat houses. 

Opposite Hanover, in Norwich, Ver. is a Military 
and Literar}?^ Academy, established by Capt. Partridge, 
which is continued since his removal to Middletown, Ct. 

The Strafford Copperas Works are nine miles north of 
Norwich. One of the buildings is 267 feet long. The 
ore is pyrites, taken from a stratum in a hill, overlaid by 
a crust of ferruginous earth containing petrified leaves, 
&c. The ore is broken and thrown into heaps, for about 
two months, when it gradually undergoes a chemical 
Bb2 



2*6 UOUl-E UP CON-NECTICUT IIIVEU. 

change, emifting' spontaneous fire and fumes of sulphur. 
It is then leached m tub?, and the water, after boihng-, 
yields crystals of copperas, of a rhombic form and a beau- 
tiful green colour. The manufactories produce about 
10,000 tons annually. 

Haverhill. 

There are three villages in this town, but the northern 
one is where the Boston road comes in, and where there 
are two good inns. The situation is elevated and over- 
looks the meadows for some distance. The distant scene- 
ry is here very fine, as ?*looschilIock Mountain and sev- 
eral others are in plain view, and serve as an introduc- 
tion to the White Mountains, which we are approaching. 

On the opposite side of the river is Piermont, (and the 
traveller may cross or not,) where is a Sulphur Spring of 
some local celebrity, with a building for baths. Some 
distance south of it is a large house, in an agreeable si- 
tuation, for the accommodation of visiters. It is capa- 
ble of receiving a great many people, and has a garden 
and pleasant rustic walks about it. Tlie stables are large, 
and great expense had been incurred, which has yet been 
ill repaid. 

The Great Ox-hoiv is a meadow containing about 500 
acres, lying in the town of Piermont on the western 
bank, and in the form of a crescent. The soil is fine 
and valuable ; but from the comparatively small extent of 
the meadow, it cannot be compared with that of Had- 
ley. There are two or three houses seen, belonging to 
the family of the first settler, who, as may be imagined, 
soon acquired wealth from so valuable a tract of land. 

From Bath to the White ?.Iountains, there are tv^^o 
roads, one of which turns off through Lisbon, Bethlehem, 
Breton Woods, Nash and Sawyer's Patent, and Shad- 
bourn and Hart's Patent. [6'ee IndexJ] 

Such is the wildness of the country, that we can do 
little more than enumerate the places. The road is new, 
in many places rocky, and in others rough, on account 
of the logs which have been laid down to support it, and 



LAXCASTEJt, f f^l"! 

the remains of the stumps of treos. But it is more di- 
rect and much less mountainous, than tliat which passes 
through Lancaster. It does not however afford that fine 
view of the Connecticut Valley, nor of the rans-es of 
mountains wliich there surround it, like a magnificent 
amphitheatre. 

J'ranconia. This is a secluded village among the 
mountains, where iron is manufactured to a considerable 
extent. It is at the foot of Haystack Mountain, which is 
about halfway between Mount Washington and Moose- 
hillock — 20 miles from each. Gibbs keeps an inn at this 
place ; and the sta.ge coach passes tv/ice a week, on the 
road to Concord and Boston by Plymouth, N. H. 

The Hayslack may be ascended by any traveller dispos- 
ed for arduous enterprises of this description : but it is 
not recommended in preference to the ascent of Mount 
Washington, which i.-^ rather less difficult. A foot path 
turns oflf from the road about 6 miles from Franconia, 
which conducts to the summit, 3 miles. The first two 
miles are through thick hemlocks, hacmetac, spruce, &;c. 
then ^ mile stunted trees, and the rest bare rocks. Near 
the spot where the path begins is a remarkable Lusus 
Xaiiu-or, formed by a rock on the side of a mountain, 
which bears a resemblance to the human face in profile. 
The forest shrubbery extends to the margin of the bare 
rocks much in the proportion of the bust of a man. It 
is called the " Old man of the Mountain.''^ The precipice 
is 600 or 1000 feet high, and rises from the side of a 
pond, which is a source of the Pomigewasset river. The 
neighbouring region is so mountainous, that more than 
fifty peaks, it is said, may be counted from the top of the 
Haystack. Indeed the view from that eminence embra- 
ces nothing but mountains, with here and there a cleared 
spot on the Plymouth road, and numerous marks of slides 
or avalanches made by the inundation in 1826. 

Lancaster 

is a very pleasant town, and the last on the river which 
merits that name. The surrounding mountains form a 



278 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

ii^oble scene, superior to every other of this nature along* 
its course. 

The Canada lino is only 40 miles north, and lies 
along the Pomicotiunt. The foilowhig are the towns 
and best inns : (Marshal's and Eames') Northumber- 
land ; (Porter's) in Stratford ; (Mahurin's) Columbia; 
(Chamberlain's) Colebrook ; and the last stage (Col. 
Eames"') Stevvartstown. 

[Having- now completed the route up Connecticut 
River, we return to Long Island Sound. For other 
routes and places, see Index.] 



^■E\V-LONDO^'. 



NEW-LONBON, CONNECTICUT. 

Entering New-London Harbour, (in a N. Y, steam 
boat,) on the left is thelin-hi House, and the dwelling 
of Gen. North, once aid-de-camp to Baron Steuben. 
The shore beyond is inhabited by fishermen, whose 
boats (called smacks) are generally to be seen in great 
numbers. 

Fort Trvmeuli. occupies a point beyond, and is garri- 
soned by the United States. It was taken in the revolu- 
tionary war, as well as the town, and Fort Grisivold^ 
which stands on the high hill opposite. Looking up the 
River Thames, the prospect is handsome, the banks be- 
ing high and cultivated, and backed by Horton's Hill 
several miles distant, in the Mohegan country. 

The Harbour of New-London is one of the most ac- 
cessible, safe and commodious in the United States, lying 
near the Ocean and the Sound, almost surrounded by 
high land, and having water enough for ships of war 
quite up to the wharves, with a fine sandy bottom near 
the shores. Unfortunately, however, there is no con- 
venient communication far into the country, and the re- 
gion about it is far from being fertile, so that the place can 
never attain much importance. It serves in some de- 
gree as the port of Connecticut River, because there is 
no good harbour there: and a great deal of trade was car- 
ried on with the West Indies a liew 3'ears ago. 

New-London is the third town in Connecticut for the 
number ofinha,bitants, and like several of the other prin- 
cipal places, although so small, enjoys the privileges of 
a city. It is situated irregularly, principally at the foot 
of a hill facing the east, and wears an appearance of de- 
cline; but some of the Iiouses are handsome, and there 
are several fine situations near the top of the hill. 

There is a road hence to Providence, and another from 
Norwich, (13 miles up the Thames,) both equally vmin- 
teresting, and nearly of equal length. The river, how- 
ever, affords some very pretty scenes, and Norwich is* 



^IJU ROUTE FROM KEVV-YORK TO BOSTON. 

a neat and interesting' town. The prices have hitherto 
been nearly the same for the two routes. 

Fort Griswold, opposite New-London, was garrison- 
ed by a few continental troops in the year 1701, in the re- 
volution, when Benedict Arnold, after his treacherous de- 
sertion of the American cause, appeared off the harbour 
■with a Britisli force on the 6th of September ; and land- 
ing 800 men on each point of the harbour, marched up 
and took Fort Trumbull, and burnt the town. Col. Eyre, 
who commanded the troops on tiie eastern shore, pro- 
ceeded towards Fort Griswold, and sending in a flag of 
truce, demanded a surrender. 

But before this time. Col. Ledyard had entered the 
fort, and garrisoned it with 120 men, chiefly militia vo- 
lunteers from the neighbourhood. The British troops 
had advanced under cover of a wood, and invested the 
fort ; but tlie Americans defended themselves for some 
time, beating off their enemies once, and finally surren- 
dered, when resistance would have been entirely use- 
less. The enemy had lost 41 ofScers and men, who 
were buried near the spot ; with Col. Ayres, the com- 
mander, wounded, and Maj. Pdontgomery killed. After 
the surrender, however, a massacre of the prisoners 
took place, which cast the deepest disgrace on the ex- 
pedition : 70 ofhcers and men being the victims, most of 
whom were heads of families. Many of the wounded 
were also treated in a most barbarous manner, being 
placed in a cart, and rolled down the hill just south of 
the present road to the fort. Arrangements have been 
made for building by subscription a monument on the 
spot. 

The objects on the Thames, at Norwich, &c. will be 
taken up on page 282. 

Road from New-London to Providence. 

Fort Hill is a commanding eminence, about 4 miles 
east from this place, and derives its name from aPequod 
Foit, which formerly occupied its summit. The road 
crosses it near the southern limit of the fort, and a 



THE PEaUODS. 281 

small church stands a quarter of a mile above, witliin 
the exLeusive space once enclosed by that palisaded 
work. It was the great fortress of the terrible Pequod 
nation, which make.-; a very conspicuous figure in the 
early history of the eastern colonies. They had fought 
their way from the interior, and seated themselves in the 
present limits of Groton, where the few poor remains 
of their descendants still are found. On the arrival of 
the Englisli, they had extended their conquests a con- 
siderable distance up Connecticut River, and the East- 
ern and Western Nehantics on the coast were subject to 
them. 

In consequence of the murders they had committed, 
and the attack with whicli they tln-eatened the infant 
settlements at Hartibrd, Windsor, and vVethersfield, the 
inhabitants formed an expedition in the spring of 1637, 
led by Capt. IVIason, attacked their other fort on the 
Mystic, burnt it, and killed about 600 persons : after 
which the nation fled from their country ; and having 
suffered another terrible slaughter in the swamp at Fair- 
field, (see that place,) were reduced to slavery, and ceased 
from that time to be an object of terror. 

This hiil commands an extensive and delightful view, 
being almost entirely clear of obstructions, and being 
superior in height to the neighbouring hills. A consid- 
erable extent of Long Island and the Sound are over- 
looked from the summit, with various islands, bays, and 
points on the Connecticut Coast. At the time of the 
burning of Mystic Fort, it was occupied by the chief 
Sachem Sassacus, who hastened to the relief of his sub- 
jects, but arrived too late to render them any assistance. 
On his return here, he burnt the weekvv^ams and pali- 
sadoes, and immediately fled for refuge to the Mo- 
hawks, by whom he was beheaded. 

Mystic, 7 1-2 miles. 

Sto.mngtgn, 10 miles. 

On descending the liill which leads into this village, 
Porter's Rock, 30 or 40 feet high, is seen a little off the 
road on the right hand. Under the shelter of it, it is 
said, Capt. Mason encamped with his little army, on the 



2U2 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON". 

night of May 26, 1637, old style, a few hours before his 
successful attack on the second Pequod f^^rt, which was 
on the top of a hill about two miles south of this place. 

During the last war, a small fort in this town was at- 
tacked by a ship and two brigs of Com. [lardy's squad- 
ron, and defended by the inhabitants with great gal- 
lantry. 

HopKiNTON, 11 miles. 

West G-reenwich, 15 miles. 

Centreville, 2 miles. 

[Here are two cotton manufactories, about half a mile 
apart, and two weaving shops, vvitli their little settle- 
ments, principally inhabited by the work people.] 

Providence, 11 miles. (See Index.) 

THE RIVER THAMES. 

Steam Boat Route from New-London to Norwich. 

A little above New-London, there is a singular rock* 
on the east side, where the explorers of the river are 
said to have landed, and to have been attacked by the 
Pequods. The Mohegan country lies above, on the 
west side, with Hortons Hill., on the top of which Uncas 
had a fort, something of which still remains. It is a 
very commanding position, and overlooks the surround- 
ing country. During the late war, the government ships 
Macedonian, United States, and Hornet, which were in 
the river, lay moored here for a length of time, and their 
guns were drawn up by oxen to the top of the hill on the 
east shore, above the little cove. A small battery was 
also constructed on the little spur projecting from the 
hill in front. 3 or 4000 militia were stationed on the 
opposite shore for their further security. 

Massapeague Point, just above. Here the river is 
quite narrow, opening northward into a small lake. 

There is a small Island on the eastern shore, on 
which is a stone cottage, built by the soldiers for a poor 
family which resided here during the war. It lies at the 
entrance of a pretty cove, which makes up a mile. 



I 



aioiiEGAX. 283 

Commodore Decatur brought the ships up here, for still 
greater security against the British cruizing off New- 
London Harbour. The place where they lay is KlaJi's 
Cove^ a mile above tlie island. Above this place, the 
river has been impeded by sand, washed down by the 
Shetucket River, and attempts are making to remedy it 
by building piers. 

Trading Cove, 1 mile above Kiabs Cove, is a hand- 
some little bay, making up into the Indian country, and 
derived its name from the barter formerly carried on 
here between the white men and the Mohegans. Uncas, 
the Sachem of Mohegan, was believed to be of Pequod 
descent, but in a state of successful revolt at the time the 
English became acquainted Vv^ith him. His chief resi- 
dence was near this cove, new the centre of the Indian 
Reservation ; but the burying ground of the royal family 
was near Norwich I.anding, (which is in sight from this 
place.) He had conquered the country as far north as 
about the present Massachusetts line, but became an 
early friend of the whites, and rendered them important 
services, particularly in war, as well as his successors, 
the later Mohegan Chiefs. 

Before this part of the state was settled, Uncas was 
once so closely besieged by his enemies the Pequods, 
that he suflered extremely from a scar< ity of provisions, 
and was relieved only by the care of a man named Lef- 
iingwell, who was despatched from Connecticut with a 
boat loaded with provisions. In gratitude, Uncas gave 
him a large part of the present town of Norwich for this 
important service. There is a rock still pointed out on 
the shore, and called Uncas' Chair, where the Sachem is 
said to have set and watched the arrival of his friends. 

On the south side, Trading Cove is bounded by Nab 
Cooper's Hiil, an appellation somewhat quaint for a 
neighbourhood not deficient in romantic association. 
Beyond is Fort Hill, which derived its name from a little 
place of strength erected in old times by the Indians, as 
a protection against other nations small like themselves. 
The poor remains of this tribe reside on the lands secured 
to them by the state government, and live in all the igno- 
c c 



284 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTO.V. 

ranee, idleness, and thriftlessness common to Indians in 
this part of the country : melancholy testimonies of the 
degradation to which the most active human minds may 
sink when every customary impulse to exertion has been 
stifled, and no new incitement extended. An Indian 
could formerly equal or surpass his companions by an 
extraordinary disphiy ox swiftness and skill in the chase, 
or conduct and courage in war ; and what exertions 
were not made for the attainment of such distinction ? 
Red men have traversed these beautiful shores in the 
pursuit of game or the tracks of their enemies, and suffer- 
ed all the severities of climate and privation, of wounds 
and of torture, for those white men whose sons now 
neglect and despise their descendants, and coldly ques- 
tion their capacity for improvement. 

NORWICH. 

Stage Coaches go on to Providence and Boston, and 
tliere arc others in different directions. 

It contains three villages, of which Chelsea Landing 
is the principal, and is remarkable for its singular situa- 
tion, as well as for its appearance of business, which is 
much favoured by the numerous manufactories in the 
neighbouring country. The Plain is about a mile north, 
and a very pleasant place. 

On the way thither is seen the Cove, at the upper 
end of which are the Falls of Yantic, a stream which 
pours over a ledge of granite about 40 feet high, and sup- 
plies several manufactories with water. The place is 
highly picturesque. A rock, 70 or 80 feet in height, over- 
hangs the stream, whence a number of Narragansett In- 
dians once precipitated themselves when pursued by the 
Mohegans. 

The Burying Ground of the Uncases 

is on the elevated bank north of the Cove, on the 
grounds of Judge Goddard. There are stones marking^ 
the graves of numerous members of the royal family of 



the MoJiegans, and a few of them bear English inscrip- 
tions. The family is now extinct, with the exception 
of one or two degenerate beings, who luive nothing but 
their name to boast of. Uncas, the old friend of the 
white men, is buried here. He and his nation were the 
only steady allies they ever found among the Indians, 
steady and powerful enough to render them very essen- 
tial service. He was a man of extraordinary talent, 
and withal extremely politic ; but he refused to join the 
general insurrection under King Philip in 1675, and died 
a friend of the white men. 

This plain was the principal summer residence of the 
Mohegans. 

The CoTTox Manufactory is a very large establish- 
ment, under the bank and at the mouth of the Yantic. 
The position is well selected, and the sum expended in 
buildings and macliinery very great. It is owned by a 
company in Boston, from which city a vast amount of 
capital has been expended in all parts of Nevv-England 
for similar objects, as the traveller will have opportunity 
to perceive as he proceeds. 

The manufacturing village, although recently built, 
contained, in 1827, 800 inhabitants. 1,600 bales of cotton 
were manufactured annually, producing more than a 
}nillion yards of cloth ; 5 or 600 tons of iron made into 
nails, nail-rods, Szc. and 150 or 200 tons of castings made 
from pig iron ; 10,000 reams of paper made in a year, 
besides macliinery, linseed oil, k-c. Here are two School 
liouses and two churches. 

CaxVal. Surveys were made in 1825 for a Canal to 
run from Norwich parallel to Connecticut River, up the 
Quinebaugh River to Massachusetts. The supply of 
water is considered abundant at all seasons, and the 
tract of country through which it is to pass extremely 
favourable to the execution of such a design, as well as 
by its fertility and population, encouraging to its success. 
It is to pass througli the following towns : Springfield, 
Palmer, Western, BrookMeld, Sturbndge, Southbridge, 
and Dudley, to the Quincbauffli. 



286 ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTOX. 

Road from Norwich to Providence. 

The road follows the course of the Quinebaugh River 
for some distance, tbrout^h a billy tract of country, and 
near a fine cataract in that stream. At the distance of 
I^ miles from Norwich, it passes 

Sachem's Field. 

This is an elevated plain, on which a battle was fought ' 
in the year 1643, between about 900 Narragansetts, 
(who inhabited Rhode Island,) and 600 or 600 Mohe- 
gans. The Sachem, of the fonner, Miantonimo, intend- 
ing to chastise Uncas for his adherence to the English, 
secretly advanced into his country v;ith an army ; but 
Uncas was aware of his approach, and met him on this 
plain, wiiere both parties halted. 

Uncas resorted to a stratagem. He stepped forward 
alone, and challenged Miantonimo to decide the quarrel 
single-handed. This, as he expected, was refused ; and 
while his enemies were not prepared, he gave a signal 
by falling down, when his men instantly set up a yell, 
discharged their arrov/s, and rushed forward. The Nar- 
ragansetts fled, and many of them were killed. Uncas 
captured Miantonimo himself, but the haughty Indian 
would not ask for quarter nor speak a word. He v/as 
taken to Hartford, and after a trial, was delivered to 
Uncas for execution. He was brought Dack to this place, 
and while marcliing across the held was tomahawked 
on a spot a little east of the road, where a heap of stones 
for many years marked the place of his burial. 

Jewett's City is a small manufacturing place, 7 
miles from Norwich. There are three cotton manufac- 
tories here, one with 2000 sphidles. 

Plainfield 

is a pleasant village ; tbe inn is largo and good, and 
overlooks a fertile plain, thiough whicli is the route of 
the proposed canal to Brookfield, Mans. 



NEWPORT. 2f>7 

On crosssng' the lino of Rhode Island, the country be- 
comes uninteresting-. The farmers are poor and negli- 
gent ; there are no villages deserving of the name, and 
nothing worthy of particular notice, except one or two 
sniiiil manufactories. 

PuoviDENCK. See page 290. 

NEWPORT. 

This i)lacc possesses one of the best harbours in the 
United States. The entrance is guarded by the Dum- 
plings Fort, and Fort Adams ; and the scenery about it 
is agreeable. 

Fort Adams on Brenton's Point, has had some addi- 
tions made to its defences, and is to embrace, when com- 
pleted, an extent of 130 acres. A range of guns is to 
line the shore towards the west, as far down as the first 
rising ground. It is proposed to fortify the Dumplings 
at an expense of ,*500,000. 

Fort WoolcottIs on Goat Island, opposite the town. 

Newport extends about a mile along the shore, but 
presents the aspect of decay, as the commerce has been 
removed to Providence. The situation has many ad- 
vantages ; and this with the cheapness of rent will 
probably render it the temporary abode of many stran- 
gers during the warm season. 

The Windmill, an old stone tower on the top of the 
hill, is a conspicuous object, although long disused. 
There are four churches visible ; and the Library^ a small 
but neat and correct specimen of architecture in the up- 
per part of the town, is worthy of attention. The 
houses of the town are thickly clustered about the mar- 
gin, but make rather a gloomy appearance on account 
of the want of paint and repair ; the place having ex- 
perienced a gradual declension produced by the success 
of Providence, 30 miles further up. 

The Poor House is on Coaster's Harbour Island, 
about a mile above the town, seen in passing in the steam 
boat. The island belongs to the town and contains 80 
acres. The building is three stories high, of stone, and 



2^8 ROUTE FROM NEW-YOUK TO BOSTON. 

contains 50 or 60 poor. Those who are able, work on 
the land, and others at different manufactures ; but 
most of them are women, and some superannuated. 
The keeper receive? 50 cents a week for the board of 
each, which is paid by the town, to which the product of 
the labour are credited. Since this establishment has 
been formed, the expenses of the poor to the town have 
been reduced one half. 

The beach behind ihe town, like the whole circuit of 
the city on the land side, was defended by a line of troops, 
batteries, &c. daring the possession of it by the English 
in the revolutionary war ; and the opposite high grounds 
were occujiied by the American army, whose head quar- 
ters were on Taamony tliil, a mile and a iialf, or there- 
abouts, from the town : an elevation which affords an 
extensive view on every side. Gen. Prescott was ta- 
ken here during the war, by a bold party of men under 
Col, Barton, wiio landed secretly from a boat in the night. 
Went to the British head quarters, and conveyed their 
captive away before the land or naval forces, then in the 
harbour, could prevent them. The place was blockaded 
by the British licet. 

During the possession of the place by the enemy, the 
trees were cut down for fuel ; and although the soil is 
admirably calculated for the growth of fruit trees, and 
was, before that period, quite covered with the finest or- 
chards ; it is now so divested of trees of every descrip- 
tion, as to appear remarkably naked and monotonous 
for an American scene. The fertility of the ground, and 
the excellence of the crops, however, as well as the 
neatness and precision witii which the fields are cultiva- 
ted, and regularly divided by fine stone walls, present a 
picture of agricultural beauty rarely paralleled m the 
United States. The island, 14 miles long and not 3 wide, 
contained in 1827 more than 30,000 sheep. 

Fort Green is a little battery erected on the water's 
edge, about a mile above the town. 

Mount Hope, famous as the ancient royal residence 
of the Narragansett Indians, and particularly as the abode 
of King- Philip, and the scene of his death, is seen from 



PROVIDEXCK. 2J>i^ 

. tew miles beyond Newport, towards tlie iiortli-west. 
It rises in Warren, on the shore of an arm of the bay, 
and will he particularly described hereafter. The view 
of it is soon afterwards cnt off by the intervention oV 
Prudence Island, which is about five miles inlengtli, and 
presents the same fertile soil and gently swelling- surface 
as that oflihode Island. The inhabitants are few, as are 
those of Patience and Hope ; islands of a much smaller 
size. Despair is a cluster of rocks on the left, near the 
island of Hope, the north end of which is 20 miles from 
Providence. 

Rhode Island Coal Mine. An extensive mine of An- 
throcitc, or incombustible coal, was opened a few years 
near the north end of tiie Island, in Portsmouth, about 
2 miles from Bristol Ferry. It was not extensively used, 
liowever, and the work was speedily abandoned. The 
property has passed into other hands witiiin two or three 
years ; and since the anthracites of Pennsylvania have 
become so valuable, about 40 hands have at some periods 
been employed in digging it, and about 100 tons of all 
sorts of coal have been got out in a week. The vein 
which is wrought is about 4200 feet oneway, 115 an- 
other, and 4 feet in thickness. It lies on an inclined 
plane ; and three other veins are supposed to be of equal 
extent. 

New- York being the great market for coal, this mine 
is very conveniently situated ; lying within uOO yards 
of the river, where sloops come up to a wharf and load. 
The excavations are liable to be flooded iii wet weather, 
by v/hich the working has been a good deal impeded. 
It is necessary that fire places should be constructed ou 
the plan of a furnace to burn this coal, as it requires a 
high degree of heat to ignite it. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This is the second city in New-England, both in po- 
pulation, wealth, and beauty. It contained, in 1825, about 
16,000 inhabitants, and is beautifully as well as advan- 
tageously situated at the licad of navigation, on the ri- 
ver of the same name. 



.2.H) 110)1' TE FllOM NEU'-YOUK TO BOSTON, 

Brown University, 

the ii:reatcpt institution of learning in the state, is built 
on the summit of a liigh hill, the ascent to which is not 
very easy, although it is laid out in streets decorated with 
some of tiio finest houses in this part of the country; 
dispersed among spacious gardens, and mmglingthe de- 
lights of the country with the splendour of a city. There 
are two brick buiidhigs belonging to this institution, 
•which comn)and fme })r.)spects. 

The town was settled by Roger Williams, w^ho left 
the old colonies in consequence of a disagreement in re- 
ligious doctrines. He built his house on the shore, near 
the present Episcopal church. Many of the society of 
Quakers or Friends afterwards joined him, whose descen- 
dants form a large share of the population of the state. 

The Academy is a large institution, near the College, 
established by the Friends or Quakers. 

(For Plymouth, see Index.) 

[Tawifon, 32 miles from Boston, next above Dighton. 
A great quantity of cotton is manufactured here, and 
there are extensive works in iron. The power is sup- 
plied by 5 dams on the west branch of Taunton river. 
About 1500 tons of iron arc manufactured here every 
year, 1200 tons into nails, 300 into plates, hoops, and 
niachincry. From 1500 to 2000 pieces of calico prints 
are furnished by the Cotton Manui'acturers, Szc. weekly. 
Annually 300,000 yards of No. 30 cotton cloth are made ; 
and 50,000 lbs. of yarn, all out of 800 bales of cotton. 
About 700 persons are employed v/ith 7000 spindles and 
200 loonis. Tlie highest manufactories up the river 
are built of wood ; the next of stone ; the third of brick. 
There are two brick dams ; and the printing establish- 
ment is among the last. 

There is also a manufactory of Britannia ware, &;c.] 
Manufactories in JVew-E?igia7id. There are said to 
bo about 400 buildings in this section of the United 
States, devoted to the spinning, weaving and printing 



BI.ACKSTONE C.VNAT.. 291 

ot' cotton ; 135 for Massachusetts ; 110 f!>r Rhode Is- 
land ; 80 for Connecticut; 50 for New Hampshire ; 15 
for Maine ; 10 for Vermont. They ma}' ho supposed to 
contain on an average 700 spindles : which gives a to- 
tal of 280,000. They work perhaps 280 days in a year, 
and use 140 lbs, of raw cotton to each spindle : which . 
would 2:ive a total of 39,200,000 lbs. or 98,000 bales. 
In one third of tiie manufactories the weaving is done 
by power looms ; in one third by hand ; and the others 
send their yarn to the middle and southern states, where 
it is woven by hand under contractors, or in families. 

Not more than 275 cotton manufactories are supposed 
to be in operation in the remaining parts of the United 
States. 

JVool and Woollen in the United Stales. It was con- 
jectured in 1827 that about 100 millions of dollars were 
invested in sheep and sheep lands in this country ; the 
number of sheep at 15 millions, and 100 millions em- 
ployed in manufacturing- wool. By the last census there 
were, in Dutchess county, N. York, more than 450,000 
sheep, whicli would give a surplus for other markets of 
500,000 lbs. of wool annually. From 800,000 to a mil- 
lion of sheep were estimated to have been Vv'interedin the 
state of Maine in 1826, "27 ; 32 millions of pounds wore 
supposed to be worked up that year in the U. States, 
giving full or partial employment to 100,000 persons. 

Blackstone Canal. 

This canal, which is intended to reach to Worcester, 
Mass. will run along tlie course of the Blackstone P»,iver 
for several miles. That stream is seen on leaving Provi- 
dence, and lies west of the road to Boston. The road 
now in use is new, and shorter than the old, but avoids 
several villages which that passes through, and presents 
very few objects worthy of notice. 

The Blackstone Canal is 45 miles long, 18 feet wide 
at the bottom, and 34 feet at the surface. There are 48 
locks, all built of stone, which overcome a rise and fall 
nf 450 feet. The size of the locks is 82 feet in length, 



.'292 P0TTTE FI103J XEW-YORK TO BObTOX. 

and 10 in breadth ; and l]ic cost of the whole work will 
he about. .fv.jOCOOO. The water is chieHy derived from 
the Blackstone river ; l)ut ihere are large ponds at dif- 
ferent parts of the route whicli can be drawn upon at 
any time. The wliole work will probably be completed 
in 1820. 

Pawtucket 

is one of the largest manufacturing places in this part of 
the country, and has increased surprisingly within a 
few years. The banks of the river are varied and some- 
Avhat romantic ; while the fall, which is under the 
bridge, furnishes a most valuable water power. Cotton 
is principally manufactured here, tlioui>h there is mn- 
chinery devoted to other purpo.ses. The influx of stran- 
gers, many cf them poor and ignorant foreigners, and 
most of them removed from the v/holesome restraint« of 
a better society, has produced unfavourable effects on 
habits and morals ; which is the worst feature in the 
manufacturing system. The first spinning by machinery 
in this country was done on a very small jnachhie in 
1785, in Providence. 

The road between Providence and Pawtucket, 4 miles, 
is one of tlie be.".t in the United States ; as the hnv re- 
quires that all the income above 10 per cent, shall be 
devoted to repairs ; and the travelling is very great. It 
iH hard and smooth, and is to be furnished with a conve- 
nient side walk the whole distance. 

Pinvtucket is the first viiiagc near the canal and con- 
tains 8 or 10 cotton factories. At Central Falls, 3 miles 
above, 5 do. T" alley Falls, a short distance above, 4 do. 
Next come Pvclley's and the Albion factories ; then Pflans- 
jleld, where are two factories, one 45 feet by 150, and 
5 stories high, of pressed brick. A mine of anthracite 
coal has been found near the canal, 

At Woonsockct Fails the descent ot"the river is 33 feet 
in a short distance, and affords fine seats for machinery, 
equal to Pawtucket. There are 3 cotton and 2 v.'oollen 
factories here, and more to be erected. The canal passes 
through the village of Cumbcrh\nd, and rises by three 



BLACKSTOXE CA.NAL. 293 

locks, of il feet lift, constructed of granite. There are 
two other factories near this place ; and four at Bartlett's 
falls above, with a Scythe factory. 

At Siatersiille is a new factory 46 feet by 153, and 5 
stories high, of hammered granite, whicii, with the other 
two, will contain 10,000 spindles, and make 7000 yards 
a day. All these esta'alisiiments, from Central Falls to 
Slatersville, are in the township of Smitlifieid, which 
abounds in valuable limestone. 

Mendon. Here is Farnem's woollen factory, wherr 
400 yards of sattinet arc made daily ; and a cotton fac- 
tor}', without mentioning several other establishments off 
the river. The Blackstone Factor}/^ or Mammoth^ makes 
about 5000 yards of sheeting daily. A little above are 
two factories which make 200 yards of .sattinet per 
diem each. 

Uxbridge. Here are factories of kerseymere, sattinet, 
&c. Rogerson's factory is one of the first in the state. 
It cost about S140,000 ; and is expected to make 2000 
yards of cloth in a day. There is a remarkable aspect 
of neatness and beauty pervading the establishment and 
the village. There are several beautiful little ponds 
formed by art, the margins of which, as well as of the 
river, have a very pretty aspect. 

Northbrldge. Here about 1500 yards of cotton are 
manufactured every day, in two factories. Holbrook 
Avoollen factory makes about 300 yards of sattinet a dayj 
and Dennis' about 100. A quarry of granite is open- 
ed about^200 yards from the canal ; and that materia! 
abounds in this region. 

Grafton. Here is a fall of 51 feet. 400 yards of sat- 
tinet are made in one establishment here. Here are to 
be seen the New-England Manufacturing Company'^ 
buildings, where they make duck and tv/ine from both 
flax and hemp. This is on the eastern road to Provi- 
dence, and 6 miles from Worqester. 

The Great Reservoir is just above. It is formed by 
damming the Quiusigamond Fond and four other ponds, 
by a tiiugle dam. This sets tlie \vater back so far as to 



294 llOUTE FRO.M NEW-YORK TO BOSTOIC. 

cover more than 2000 acres ; and keeps an abundant 
supply always at disposal. 

At TVilkinsonville is a large cotton manufactory ; and 
',ii Milbunj,, a little way beyond, 300 yards of woollen 
arc made daily. V/ithin a short distance are also man- 
ufactories of cotton, scythes, and guns. 

Worcester, Here are large paper mills, five machine 
shops, &;c. &;c. {See 'page 252.) 

Attleboroxigh. The inn stands on the spot once oc- 
cupied by a block house, built on the frontier of the 
Indian country before Philip's war. Opposite is an old 
burying- ground, w hich contains the body of the first man 
killed here by the savages. 

Wai-pole. Here the stage coaches usually stop to 
dine or breakfast. 

Dediiam, 10 miles from. Boston^ is a large and beauti- 
ful village, with regular and well built streets, and some 
quite elegant houses. 

Blue Hills. This is a pleasant retreat, about 7 miles 
from the city of Boston, and much resorted to m the 
summer season ; as a largo house of entertainment has 
been recently erected at the foot of the mountain whence 
the place derives its name ; and the summit, which is 
considered about 800 feet above the level of the ocean, 
commands a fine and extensive vie\y. A small houso 
has also been built on the top, where the view is the 
finest, for tlie temporary repose and supply of visiters. 
On the northern side, the view embraces, in a clear day, 
the Green Mountains in Verniont, and the White Moun- 
tains in New-rlampshire, with a wide extent of country 
between : Nahant, and in general, all Boston Bay, is 
seen eastwardly, and near at hand. 

The hills are seen on the right from the road, a few 
miles south of Boston. 

(^uinct/ Railway. This is the first work of the kind 
which was constructed in the United States. It is 3 
miles long, and leads from the quarries of granite to 
navigable water, for ihe transportation of stone to Bos- 
ton. The railway and the quarries will be found worthy 
of a visit. The descent from the commencement to the 



iioxuuRY. 295 

v/harfis 86 feet ; breadth 5 feet from tlie inside of one rail 
to the inside of the opposite one ; a horse path between 
the two rails 4 feet 4 inches wide. The plank rails are 
of pine 10 inches in height, with caps of red oak 2 
inches thick, by 3 inches width. The sleepers, or tran- 
verse beams are of granite, 7 feet long, on which the rails 
rest ; these sleepers are at distances of 8 feet apart. 
The wrought iron rails are laid on the red oak caps, and 
are 2 inches wide, and 3-8ths of an inch thick : 27 tons 
3 cwt. 14 lbs. of iron, including screws, are used to each 
mile, making short of 82 tons of iron for the 3 miley. 
This railway was opened for use on the 16th September, 
1826, and has been since constantly used for the trans- 
portation of granite — generally 60 tons per day. One 
horse has drawn 22 tons, including the weight of the 
two wagons, from the quarry down to the wharf ; but 
the ordinary load of a horse is from 12 to 15 tons. One 
horse usually draws 2 wagons. By way of experi- 
ment, one horse drew 13 tons up an elevation at the 
rate of 66 feet 6 inches in the mile, a distance of 200 
feet. A load of 24 tons in 3 wagons passed on the rail- 
way, which did not appear to shake the rails at all. The 
wheels of the wagons are 6 feet in diameter ; the axle 
tree 3 inches in diameter. Weight of wagons, 3500 
pounds each. 

Four beautiful columns were taken from the granite 
quarries in 1828, of solid masses, for the new church in 
Quincy. They are 25 feet long, 4 feet 2 inches in 
diameter at the base, 3| at top, and supposed to weigh 
25 tons each. 

ROXBURY. 

On the Neck which leads to Boston, we pass the re- 
mains of the entrenchments thrown up by General 
Washington, in 1776, to shut the British troops up in 
the town ; and a little beyond them is the place where 
Gen. Gage previously drew his line across, to command 
the communication between it and the country. The 
country on both sides retains marks of the American forts, 
u d 



29t/ ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO BOSTON. 

redoubts, &;c. and Dorchester Heights on the east are 
crowned with the works thrown up by Washington, 
wliich commanded Boston and the anchorage ; and 
forced the enemy to evacuate the place. Embarking 
here in their fleet, they went around to Long Island, and 
soon aller entered New-York. [See page 300.] 



1 



CITY OF BOSTON. 291 



BOSTON. 

Hotels. The Exchange. Marlborough Hotel, &c. 

Boston contains an uncommon proportion of fine build- 
ings, particularly private residences : for it not only pos- 
sesses much wealth, but also much taste and public spirit. 
The finest buildings are of whitish granite, brought from 
the shores of the Merrimack River, being found in abun- 
dance at different places, from Chelmsford to Concord, 
N. H. It is transported to Boston by the Middlesex Ca- 
nal, and is not only beautiful and lasting, but obtained at 
a moderate price. It is found very durable when exposed 
only to the elements : but fire soon disintegrates and 
ruins it. The Quincy Granite is also excellent. 

The AtheruEum. Under the patronage of wealthy and 
generous friends of the arts and sciences, for whom 
Boston has long been conspicuous, this valuable collec- 
tion of books, coins, and medaJs, has by rapid degrees 
risen to a grade of eminence among the libraries of the 
country. In addition to the numerous and voluminous 
works before in the possession of the institution, sub- 
scriptions have been made within a few months to pro- 
cure complete copies of the transactions of the Royal 
Societies and Academies of Sciences in London, Edin- 
burgh, Dublin, Paris, Petersburg, Berlin, Turin, Got- 
tingen, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Madrid and Lisbon. 
The catalogue of 1827 contains 23,000 volumes. Any 
person, by paying |'10 a year, may enjoy the liberty of 
reading books in tlie rooms of this institution ; but only 
proprietors and life subscribers have the privilege of 
taking them away. The library however is free to 
strangers introduced by proprietors, and may then be 
visited by them alone at any time. Most of the val- 
uable periodical magazines of Europe are regularly re- 
ceived ; as well as those of the United States, and news- 
papers from all parts of the country. The Exhibition 
and Lecture rooms are in a building in the rear. The 
i\.cademy of Arts and Sciences have a room on the first 
floor, and there is a picture gallery on the second. 



293 CITY OF BOSTON. 

The New Market is constructed of Granite, and 
iti of the following dimensions : a centre building 74^ 
feet by 55, with wings, extending in all 536 feet, with 
a fine facade at each end, with granite columns of 
single pieces, 21 feet high, and weighing each, 14 or 15 
tons ; a row of granite buildings on each side, 4 stories 
high, for stores, more than 500 feet. 

The Common is a fine piece of ground, on the south- 
western side of the city, and one of its greatest orna- 
ments. The surface is agreeably varied by a few gentle 
undulations, and it is decorated with rows of handsome 
dwelling houses on two sides, while on the third, it ia 
bounded by the bay of Charles River, and affords an 
extensive view in that direction, embracing a tract of 
cultivated hilly country. A range of buildings near 
the south end of the Common, bears the name of Co- 
lonnade Row, in consequence of their being all alike fur- 
nished with white columns. 

The State House is the principal object seen in ap- 
proaching the city, and stands on a considerable emi- 
nence at the north side of the Common. It has a double 
range of columns in front of the main building, and a 
large dome on the top, to which a somewhat intricate 
stair-case leads, affording the most extensive view of 
Boston and the surrounding country which is to be 
found. 

Chanlrcy's Statue of Washington. In this beautiful 
specimen of the genius and skill of the greatest British 
Sculptor, Boston possesses a treasure. It was finished 
and sent to America in 1827, and a new apartment was 
constructed for its reception, adjoining the Doric Hall in 
the State House. The total expense of the statue and 
building amounted to about .f; 16,000. The entrance 
from the Hall into the edifice is through arched passages, 
which afibrd the visiter a full view in approaching 
and from various points. The public are freely admit- 
ted except on the Sabbath, and Thanksgiving and Fast 
days, when the State House is closed by the order of the 
Legislature. 

The hills at. Dorchester. Roxburv, Brighton, Cam- 



bunker's hill. 299 

bridge, Charlestown, &;c. together with the numerous 
islands which protect the harbour, form an amphitheatre, 
very regular and beautiful, when seen from tiie top of 
the State House ; and the villages whicii are seen in 
every direction, almost entirely line the shore. The 
mingling of land and water in this scene is very fine ; 
and it is easy, at a glance, to comprehend the plan of 
the various measures adopted during the Revolutionary 
war, for the defence and the capture of the place. 

Gen. Gage, in 1775, ran a breastwork across Rox- 
bury neck, which is very narrow, in order to command 
the only land communication with the neighbouring 
country, and then continued those acts of oppression 
upon the people, which exasperated the colonies so mucJi 
against him. Contributions were sent in for their relief 
from all parts of the colonies. 

On the 17th of June, 1775, while the forces whicli 
had repaired to this threatened scene, had their liead 
quarters at Cambridge, a body of men, principally form- 
ed of detachments from Massachusetts and New-Hamp- 
shire regiments, having fortified themselves on Breed's 
Hill, (an inferior eminence behind Charlestown,) man- 
fully disputed the ground with the British troops, sent 
over from Boston to occupy it. The loss was great on 
both sides, particularly on that of the assailants, wlio 
were driven back in three attacks. Tlie boldness of 
these raw troops, and the success with which they so 
long withstood the 'cliargcs of the regulars, were of the 
utmost use, by encouraging the country, and by con- 
vincing the English that they were fighting a powerful 
foe. The battle usually goes by the name of Bunker*« 
Hill ; but should, in strict propriety, be called after 
Breed's Hill, as the latter is a distinct eminence, al- 
though, perhaps, a spur from the former. 

The British landed near a point, just beyond where 
the navy yard is now seen ; and the American defences 
consisted of a small earth redoubt on the top of Breed's 
Hill, and a double rail fence, stuffed with new hay, ex- 
tending from it to llic v/ater. Some remains of these 
■works are still to be traced, A British bIoo]) of war, 
D d 2 



.100 CITY OF BOSTON-. 

Jay, during the action, in Mystic River, beyond the navy 
yard, and kept up a cross fire upon the low neck, which 
connects the peninsula of Charlestown with the main 
land. 

The 17th of June, 1825, the fiftieth anniversary of this 
battle was commemorated with very appropriate cere- 
monies ; and the corner stone of a monument was laid 
in an angle of the old redoubt, on Breed's Hill, with Ma^ 
sonic ceremonies. A large number of Revolutionary 
officers and soldiers assembled ; and the monument is to 
be erected at the expense of private contributions. 

Bunker Hill Monument. The base, (a mass of 14,000 
tons weight,) is laid 13 feet deep, and has six courses of 
stone to the surface — the first of which is 50 feet on each 
side. Above this a pyramidal obelisk, 30 feet square 
is to rise tapering 213 feet, 4 inches on the ground, and 
to be 15 at the top. It will be composed of 80 courses of 
stone, each 2 feet, 8 inches thick. A winding stone 
stair case in the inside will lead to the summit, whence 
the view will be fine and highly interesting. The whole 
is to be built of granite from Quincy. The largest block 
in it is said to be of the following dimensions : 11 feet 
long, 5 broad, 2 feet 8 inches high, with a weight of 10 
ions. 

After the battle of Bunker's hill, the Continental troops 
were drawn in a more complete line around the town of 
Boston ; and numerous entrenchments may still be tra- 
ced out on most of the hills in the vicinity ; but it was 
not till Gen. Washington succeeded in occupying Deri- 
Chester Heights, which command the harbour and town 
from the south-east, that the British forces embarked in 
tlieir ships, and evacuated tlie place. 

Dorchester Heights were occupied on the night of 
March 4, 1776. Eight hundred men formed the van ; 
then followed carriages, and 1200 pioneers under Gen. 
Thomas, 300 carts of fascines and gabions, and guns in 
the rear. Two forts were formed by 10 at night, one 
towards the city, and the other towards Castle Island. 
Preparations were made for an attack by the British, and 
for defence by the Americans ; but the weather prevent- 



.MANUFACTUIilN'G. oOl 

otl the designs of the former, who consisted of 10,000, 
and they embarked for New- York. The town was pil- 
laged, and 1500 loyalists removed. It was evacuated 
and possessed, March 17 : ammunition, &c. being left by 
the British. 

Bridges. Some of the most striking objects in the 
neighbourliood of Boston, are the bridgeswhich lead from 
it to various points. There are no less than five princi- 
pal ones, beside several branches. The expense at which 
they have been constructed and are kept in repair is 
very great, and they furnish great facihties for stran- 
gers desirous of making excursions to the surrounding 
country. 

Schools. There were, in 1827, 7500 children instructed 
in the public schools in Boston, as follows — There are 
seven grammar schools, in which were about 500 pupils. 
There were 200 boys in the Latin school, and 140 in the 
High school. The primary schools contained almost 
3000 children between 4 and 7 years of age, taught by 
females, k.c. Sic. The public expense incurred in in- 
.structing nearly 7500 children is ^54,500 annually. 

A monument has been laid or commenced over the 
graves of Dr. FrankUn's parents, in the Granary burying 
ground. The model is for an obelisk, 25 feet high, form- 
ed of seven blocks of Quincy granite, each weighing 
about 6 tons^ 

Villages. The vicinity of Boston presents a succes- 
sion of villages, probably not to be paralleled for beauty 
in the United States. They are generally the residence 
of a number of the most opulent citizens during the 
pleasant seasons, and many of the buildings are fine and 
expensive. The grounds are also frequently laid out 
with great taste, and highly cultivated ; so that no 
stranger, who has leisure, should fail to take a circuit 
through them, at least for a few miles. There are sev- 
eral manufacturing establishments in this vicinity, among 
which Waltham is conspicuous. [In some places on the 
£;oast salt is made from sea water.*] 

* The Salt Manufactories of Massachusetts are worth 
.^xbout two millions of dollars, which make about 600,000 



30£ CITY OF BOSTOX. 

NAHANT, 

14 miles. This is a very pleasant and fashionable re- 
sort, during the warm months : being a fine situation, 
open to the sea, of easy access by land or water, and 
furnished with several houses for the accommodation of 
visiters, particularly the largo hotel. A steamboat runs 
thither in the summer, and there is a fine road which 
passes round the bay through the shoe-making town 
of Lynn, along Lynn beach, and then turns oft' to the 
promontory of Nahant, which is a point of rough rocks 
of considerable elevation. You may cross Charlestown 
bridge, and visit Bunker's Hill at setting out. 

The passage in the steam boat affords a fine view of 
Boston bay, with the city ; Dorchester Heights on the 
south. Bunker, and Breed's Hill on the north-west, and 
many other interesting objects. Among the Islands 
which form the defence of the hai'bour, is that which 
contains Castle Williams, and one or two other fortified 
ones ; Rainsford Island with the Marine Hospital, part of 
it quite elevated, but containing only a few acres. Salt 
is made in Boston Bay, and wind mills are sometimes 
used to pump the water. 

The ground near the hotel at Nahant, has been laid 
out and ornamented with as much taste as the exposure 
of the situation will permit. The cupola on the top 
commands a fine water scene ; and during a strong wind 
from the sea, the waves are high and magnificent, break- 
ing wildly against the rocks. There is a very ornamen- 



bushels a year, by solar evaporation. Each bushel weighs 
75 pounds. The duty in the United States on irnportrd sait 
is 20 cents a bushel ; and yields a revenue of $oOO,000. 
Manufactories, by natural and artificial heat, are established 
in the following- states :— New- York, Rhode Island, North 
Carolina and Alabama. 

In liarnstable county there are estimated to be fifteen mil- 
lion square feet of land devoted to the making of salt by solar 
evaporation. In New-England there are supposed to be 13 
millions. 



INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 303 

fal little building, in the Grecian style, which contains 
billiard rooms. 

The Baths are at a little distance from the hotel, and 
quite commodious, furnishing one of the chief attrac- 
tions of the place. 

The Syren's Grotto is a remarkable cavity in the 
rocks, about a quarter of a mile from the hotel, which 
has been curiously worn out by the waves ; and there 
are several other caverns of a similar character, produc- 
ed in the course of ages, by the constant attrition of the 
water. The rude shores and the smooth beach can bo 
best examined at low tide ; but those who are fond of 
sublime scenes, Jiould omit no opportunity to visit them 
when the wind is high, particularly in a moonlight night. 

Proposed Improvements for Internal Communication. 
— Plans have been on foot for several years, for con- 
structing canals and railways from Boston to the Hudson 
River near Albany, and examinations were made a year 
or two ago of a canal route ; but the obstacles were 
found too great to encourage the work. The country has 
been examined on two main routes, one through North- 
ampton and the other through Springfield. The latter 
only has been surveyed. The summit is in Washington, 
1440 feet above Connecticut river, and 1477 above the 
Hudson ; 39 miles from the former and 63 from the lat- 
ter. The greatest elevation will not exceed 80 feet in a 
mile ; one horse could draw equal to 8 tons weight on 
any part except two sections which would be together 
less than 10 miles. In 1828 the Governor was author- 
ized to appoint engineers to make surveys, &:c. for canal 
and rail routes. [A compan}^ was organized in 1827, to 
open a Water Communication between the Piscataqua 
.•uid the Connecticut Rivers, through the waters of Lake 
Winnipiseogee, and the upper branch of Merrimack 
River.] 

A route has also been proposed for a Railway com- 
njunication between Boston and Lake Ontario, from Con- 
cord to Lebanon on Connecticut River ; thence through 
the valley of the White River to Montpelicr ; by Onion 
River to Lake Champlain ; and thence to Ogdensburg, 



304 CITY OF BOSTON. 

The last section, which has been surveyed for a state 
road, is peculiarly favourable. 

Plymouth, 26 miles S. S. E.froni Boston. 

This place is highly interesting from its history, being 
the site of the first settlement made by the New-Eng- 
land Pilgrims in 1620, on the 22d of December. A mass 
of granite rock is still shown on which those stepped 
who first landed. It has been divided, and a part of it 
remains buried near the shore in its natural location, 
while the upper part is removed mto the centre of the 
village. 

A handsome building was erected here in 1820, in 
which the New-England Society hold their annual cele- 
brations of that interesting era in the history of the 
country. Burying Hill, which rises near at hand, is the 
spot where a small fort was erected by the settlers, and 
where the graves of several of them are still to be found. 
The banks of the brook south of the hill were the scene 
of the first conference with Massasoit, a friendly and 
faithful Indian chief, from whom the name of the Bay, 
and subsequently that of the state was derived. Manu- 
met point is a promontory on the south side of the har- 
bour ; and a fjmall island on the opposite side of it was 
the spot where the pilgrims first placed their feet on 
shore in this vicinity, after having previously landed on 
Cape Cod. 

The young and feeble colony suffered extreme dis- 
tresses here, from the severity of the climate, (against 
which they were unprepared, as they had sailed for a 
more southern region,) and the want of provisions. No- 
thing but the assistance of Massasoit preserved them from 
extinction. 

Routes from Boston. 

Coaches go in so many directions, tliat a choice may 
be made between a great many, all of the]n pleasant ; in 
setting out for a tour to the westward, or towards the 
citv of New- York : 



ROUTE FROM BOSTOX. 305 

In the first place, the noble scenery of the White Hills 
may be taken in the way to Lake Champlain, Canada^ 
the Springs, or Niagara ; or in making the more circum- 
scribed route of Connecticut River. Next, those who 
choose a more direct way, may avail themselves of the 
road through Concord, Plymouth, and Haverhill ; or 
Concord and Hanover ; or Concord, Keene, and Wind- 
sor ; or its branches to Charlestown or Walpole. The 
last is now much travelled, as it is one of the shortest 
routes between Boston and the Springs, and leads 
through a number of interesting places. Beside these, 
are the roads to Albany or the Springs, through the fol- 
lowing different places : Brattleborough, Bloody Brook, 
Greenfield, Northampton, (and New Lebanon ;) Spring- 
field and Hartford. Of these different routes, it is diffi- 
cult to make choice of any one to recommend in general. 
Many may have particular objects in view, and some will 
iiave less time at their disposal. To strangers, however, 
it will be proper to remark once more, that the route of 
Connecticut River presents at once a scene of fertility, 
population, good habits, and intelligence, on the whole, 
superior to any other tract of country, of equal extent, 
in the United States ; with correspondent accommoda- 
tions for travellers. The scenery is rich and varying, 
and cannot fail to please, wherever it is seen ; but those 
who can first pass through the Notch in the White 
Mountains, will find its beauties greatly enhanced by the 
contrast. The number of visiters to the White Moun- 
tains in 1827 was greater even than in the preceding- 
year, partly induced by a wish to witness the devastation 
caused by the flood in 1826. The road has been so much 
repaired as to be safe, and great improvements have been 
made at E. A. Crawford's, in the ascent of Mount Wash- 
ington and in accommodations. At Hadley and North- 
ampton is the most beautiful part of the whole river ; 
and for the other routes, we can only refer to the Index 
for the descriptions of the principal towns through which 
I hey pass. 

East of Boston, the country is of a different, and too 
nften of an opposite character, presenting few objects of 



o06 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO NEW LEBANON. 

importance, except the sea ports through which the road 
passes. 

There is a line of Steam Boats to Maine and Kew- 
Brunswiek. 

The Road to Portland and through the most popu- 
lous part of the state of Maine will be given ; but being 
of less interest to most travellers from this city, will be 
placed towards the end of the volume, while we turn our 
attention to the principal routes leading west and north 
from Boston. 

To Albany through Worcester, Northampton, 
AND Lebanon Springs. 

Watertown, like almost all the villages in the vi- 
cinity of Boston, presents many neat country seats and 
an aspect of rural beauty and lerlility. 

Framingham. Here is a large and well kept hotel, 
where the stage coaches stop, and a place of great re- 
sort. (20 m. from Boston.) 

Worcester, 20 m. Leicester, 6 m. Spencer, 6. m. 

Brookfield. This was one of the towns earliest set- 
tled in this part of the country, dating as far back as 
Nov. 10, 1665 ; and for several years the only towns on 
the west were Hadley, Northampton, &c. while there 
was no white settlement between it and Canada. The 
stage coach passes over a long hill in West Brookfield, 
which commands an extensive prospect ; and this was 
the place where the settlement began. A few yards 
west of a white house on the nortli side of the road, was 
a house built for defence, and though of little strength, 
was called the Fort. In August, 1675, this place was 
suddenly beset by several hundred savages. The in- 
habitants had been imposed upon by tlie appearance of 
friendliness shown by the Hasseaemesit Indians, and on 
their way to their fort, a few miles distant, were ambush- 
ed and pursued, so that they barely escaped. The house 
in which they all assembled, was besieged, and was seve- 



WAUK FACTOIIY. 307 

ral times in imminent danger. On one occasion a cart, 
loaded with hemp, &;c. and set on fire, was pushed up to 
the house with long poles, when a sudden shower came 
up, in time to extinguish the flames. The fortunate arri- 
val of Capt, Mosely, with a small troop of horsemen, de- 
livered the inhabitants, and drove away the savages. 
All the houses having been burnt, and the war soon 
beginning to rage with violence, the settlement was 
evacuated. 

The old well still remains which belonged to the fort, 
or block house ; and there is a rock in a wall, on the 
opposite side of the road, from behind which an Indian 
sliot one of the men, who came out to draw water during 
the siege. 4 

The present village is at the bottom of the hill, ana is 
pleasantly situated, with several ponds in the neighbour- 
hood, which, with tlie fish and fowl they furnished, were 
tlie principal attraction of the savages, who were very 
numerous in this tract of country. These ponds give 
rise to the Quabaug River, which, after a course of some 
miles, takes the name of Chicopee, and joins the Con- 
necticut at Springfield. Tliis is the stream which it has 
been proposed to connect with Boston Bay by a canal, 
and also by another with the Thames at Norwich, in 
Connecticut. 

Four miles west of Brookfield you reach a height of 
land, which affords a varied and extensive view, with a 
succession of hilly country immediately around you. 

Ware Factory Village 

is situated in a little valley, with an excellent inn. Tlie 
rocks and woods give an air of wildness to the water 
fall, in their natural state, and the place is now quite 
picturesque, when a rustic cottage, the residence of the 
agent, is taken into view. 

Six years since there were only five buildings ; and 

now there are a cotton factory, containing 2000 spindles, 

and 5G looms ; another witli 4,500 spindles, and 150 

looms ; a third, of tlie size of the latter ; a flannel raanu- 

F- e 



308 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO NEW LEBANON. 

factory, in which are made 15 pieces per week ; dye^ 
wool houses, machine, blackHmiths', cabinet makers', and 
various other shops ; grist and saw mills, a furnace, 
thirty dwelling houses, &;c. &c. 

Belchertown, 9 miles. 

Amherst, 7 miles. The shortest road to Northampton 
does not pass the College. {See Index.) 

Hadley, 5 miles. 



BATTLE OF LEXINGTOX. 309 



ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 



The first day's journey is to Concord or Dover^ both in 
New-Hampshire. The former route is recommended. 

There are three roads to Concord, on all which there 
are stage coaches. (All necessary information concern- 
ing them, can be readily obtained at the hotels.) 

The first is through Cambridge, (where is Harvard 
University,) and Lexington. 

The second is through C/tar/esfou-'W, and joins the other 
on the Merrimack. 

The third is through Andover and Haverhill, Mass. 

The distance is from 68 to 70 miles, and the fare $3 50. 

Besides these there is a boat on the Middlesex Canals 
which has heretofore left the upper locks in Charlestown 
(2 miles from Boston,) three times a week, and goes to 
Chelmsford in about 9 hours : 28 miles, passage 75 cents. 
This mode is not particularly recommended. 

Several places on these roads will be particularized. 

Lexington 

is remarkable as the place where the first blood was shed 
in the revolutionary war. On the I9th of April, 1776, 
Gen. Gage sent a body of troops from Boston, to seize a 
powder house at Concord, belonging to the colony ; and 
the inhabitants were warned of his design, by an ex- 
press despatched by the Hon. Joseph Warren. The 
militia were called out, but, the alarm subsiding, they 
were dismissed, with orders, however, to hold themselves 
in readiness. The enemy unexpectedly made their ap- 
pearance at half past 4, coming on at a quick step, with- 
in a mile and a quarter of the church. The alarm guns 
were fired, drums beat, and 50 or 60 militiamen assem- 
bled on the parade. The British brigade halted about 
120 yards from the church to load, and then passing the 
east end of the building, discovered the Americans, who 



JiO FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

were ordered at the moment, by their commander, Capt. 
Parker, to " disperse, and take care of tliemselves," but 
" not to fire." As some of them loitered, the British 
troops rushed towards them, huzzaing-. Major Pitcairn 
fired a pistoi at them, when about 30 yards distant after 
they had been called " rebels," and ordered them to lay 
down their arms and disperse. Another officer, who was 
within a few yards of them, then brai.'dished his sword 
and ordered the troops to "• fire,"" which was obeye d at 
the second order; and the fire being returned, it was kept 
up on the dispersing men until they had all disappeared. 
Eight were killed and ten wounded. (Gen. Gage 
falsely stated that the British were first fired upon.) 

After the regulars had fired a volley, from the green 
behind the church, and given three cheers, they proceed- 
ed to Concord. On their return, being hard pressed by 
sharp shooters, they burnt three houses, a shop, and a 
barn, killed three more men, and wounded one. 

Andover 

is a small village, situated on high ground, 20 miles from 
Boston, remarkable for the Philips Academy and Theo- 
logical Seminary^ which are three-fourths of a mile east 
from it, on the summit of the ascent. There are three 
large brick buildings, belonging to the Seminary, which 
make a conspicuous figure from different parts of the 
surrounding country, and command a view of great ex- 
lent, bounded on the west by the Temple Hills in New- 
Hampshire, backeo by the Monadnoc, about 60 miles 
off ; and in the south by tlie Blue Hills, A little ele- 
vation near by affords a view of the Atlantic Ocean, 
from about Newburyport to Cape Ann, with part of Sa- 
lem ; and nortli-west is a distant peak, which is sup- 
posed to be Ascutney, in Vermont. 

The academical buildmgs are distinguished by the 
names of Philips Hall, Bartlett Hall, and the Chapel. In 
the Upper part of the latter is a library of 5 or 6000 
volumes. The Professors' houses are opposite, with a 
spacious green intervening betv/een the Seminary and 



LOWELL. 311 

the street ; and there is also a large inn. The Acade- 
my and Seminary are not connected, although they are 
under the superintendence of the same board. The 
term of instruction m the latter embraces three years. 

Haverhill, 

is a srhall town, but pleasantly situated, on the north 
bank of the Merrimack, the shores of which, for some 
distance below, present a beautiful and fertile slope to 
the water. A bridge crosses the river, with a roof to 
protect it from the weather. A new Steamboat runs to 
JNewburyport. It it called the Merrimack. 

Lowell, 

12 miles from Boston. This is one of the greatest 
manufacturing^ places in the United States, and one 
of the most astonishing rapidity of growth. No longer 
ago than 1813 the first cotton factory was erected here, 
which cost only about .^3,000. Larger ones were found- 
ed in 1818 ; and two years after the "Merrimack Manu- 
facturing Company"" made a purchase of buildings and 
ground, with the determination to take advantage of 
the extensive water power which nature has granted 
to the place. The falls are 30 feet high, and a little be- 
low the spot where the Middlesex canal commences, 
leading to Charlestown, near Boston ; and round them 
the Company improved an old canal, (at the expense 
of $120,000,) for tlie supply of their water wheels. 
There is power enough for 50 factories with 3,500 spin- 
dles each. The place now presents the aspect of a 
large and busy village, laid out and built with remark- 
able uniformity. The number of factories is 5, each 
containing 3,500 spindles. They are regularly dis- 
posed, with the avenues between the habitations abut- 
ting against the yard. In 1827 they used about 450,000 
lbs. of cotton, and made about two million yards of 
cloth, 3-4 of which was dyed or printed at a neighbour- 
ing estabhshmcnt. There is also a large machine shop 
near at hand. The Conipany have a capital of S'1.200,000, 



312 FllOM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

and employed in 182Tmorc than 1,000 persons. About 
200 men, and 180 females, are employed in each mill. 
None arc under the age of twelve ; and very few arc 
so young. The wages of these persons depend in some 
measure, upon their skill and hidustry. Some earn |2 
a week, and others only 1, besides board, which is |1 25,' 
The men receive more. In each mill, 2500 yards are 
woven daily, of No. 22, 30, and 40 yarn, respectively. 

" The Hamilton Manufacturing Company," with a 
capital of $'600,000, are also erecting immense cotton 
factories. 

Chelmsford is one of the principal manufacturing 
places in the United States. 

Mam/factories in JVtic-Hampslcire. So recently as 
1810 there were but 12 cotton manufactories in this 
state, with 5956 spindles ; and only about two million 
yards of woollen, cotton, flaxen and tow cloth were made 
in them and in private families during that year. The 
Portsmouth Journal stated a short time ago, that the 
number of cotton and woollen manufactories is now more 
than 50 : and the cloth made annually is about 30 mil- 
lions. The villages near Portsmouth — Newmarket, Do- 
ver, Somersworth, Berwick, k,c. are thriving manufac- 
turing places. 

Great Falls Village is a village 5 miles above Dover, 
belonging to the town of Somer worth, of 60 or 70 dwel- 
lings, built witliin a few months, and 4 Manufactories. 
One of these is for cotton, with 1500 spindles, and makes 
7000 yards No. 20 in a week. One for woollen, 156 feet 
long, with near 6000 spindles, and makes 16,000 or 18,000 
yards of No. 40 weekly. One is for broadcloth, 220 feet 
long ; and another, 390 feet long, for cotton and woollen. 

Nashua Village, 

in Dunstable, 33 miles from Concord. The fall in the 
Nashua River is 65 feet, and the power equal to about 
65,000 spindles. Here are some astonishing improve- 
ments. In 1825 tliere were two great manufactories, 
each 155 feet by 48, one for cotton and the other for 



CONCORD. Sio 

woollen, witli a dye house 150 by 48, a wood house and 
machine shop 250 by 30, &;c. The buildings for the work 
people form small and regular villages. 

Dover. 

This is one of the principal towns in the state, and 
contains several manufactories, although the supply of 
water is by no means abundant at all seasons. In cross- 
ing the bridge there are seen three large maiiufactories, 
each about 200 feet in length ; and the foundation of a 
fourth was laid in 1825, although the contracted space 
afforded on the banks required the blasting out of a great 
quantity of rock for the foundation and sluiceways. 

About 5 miles above Dover, at Salmon River Falls, is 
a village containing four manufactories, of different 
sizes, from 63 to 390 feet in length, and of 5 and 6 stories 
in height. 

CONCORD 

is the capital of New-Hampshire, and a very fine and 
flourishing town. It is much the largest the traveller 
will see before reaching the White Mountains, and for 
a great distance beyond them. 

Inns. The two principal stage houses, just south of 
the state house, are large and commodious — that next 
the state house is particularly recommended. There are 
several others above and below, though of much inferi- 
or pretensions. 

The town is situated principally on one street, which 
is of a great length and very convenient breadth, with 
many respectable houses ; and runs parallel with the 
Merrimack, which is at only a short distance on the east. 

The State House occupies a conspicuous situation 
near the middle of the town, a little removed from tho 
street, and surrounded by a handsome stone wall, enclo- 
sing an area. It is built of hewn granite from the quarry, 
and is a neat edifice, 100 feet long, with a large hall on 
the first floor, and on the second the Senate and Repre- 



314 FROM BOSTON TO THE Vx'IIITE MOUNTAIN'S. 

sentatives' Chambers, with the committee rooms, state 
offices, &c. fcc. The view from the top is extensive, but 
embraces a tract of country too little cultiA^ated to be 
rich, and too unvaried to be picturesque. At the north- 
ward are seen two or three distinct peaks, which may 
serve as an earnest of the magnificent scenery to be pre- 
sented to the traveller in that direction. 

The State Prison is built at a short distance from 
the State House, and bears a still greater appearance of 
solidity and strength. 

There is an Academy in Concord, with several church- 
es. Several newspapers are printed here, and gazettes 
from distant places may be found at the inns. Farmer 
Sz Moore's Gazetteer of New-Han;pshire is the best 
companion for a traveller in this state. 

From what may have been observed of the granite 
rocks along the road, the stranger must have admired 
their superior quality, and the freedom and precision of 
their fracture, wherever the wedge is judiciously appli- 
ed. The fine blocks broken out cfthe old boulders, for 
the posts of fences, as well as for steps, mill stones, &c. 
must have shown the excellence of the granite of this 
part of the country. The same characteristics, in great- 
er or less degrees, will be found to attend the whole of 
the granite range of the White Mountains, till its last 
appearance about Bath, on Connecticut River. Jt is 
uncommon, in this part of tlie country, to find a single 
rock formation extending such a distance without auy 
interruption. To what different dates geologists may 
hereafter refer the coarsest varieties on Mount Washing''- 
ton, the disintegrating rocks of Red Mountain, the 
boulders of Winnipiseogee Lake, interspersed with their 
crystals of fieldspar three or four inches in length, and 
the white, fine-grained granite of Concord and Chelms- 
ford, it is not for the hasty traveller to inquire. Doubt- 
less many interesting facts will be elucidated, when 
scientific men shall devote their researches to the subject, 
and trace the boulders along the Ammonoosuc and 
Winnipiseogee Lake, to the rocks and mountains from 
v/hich some long past convulsion has torn them away. 



CONCORD. 315 

The Merrimack River has been rendered navigable, 
by various improvements, from Concord to Chelmsford, 
where the Middlesex Canal opens a communication di- 
rectly to Boston, 28 miles. Small manufacturing villages 
succeed each other along the banks wherever the canals 
round the falls and rapids afford water-power. Some of 
the principal ones we notice. In 1825 a plan was form- 
ed for extending the improvements, and to render the 
river navigable to Newburyport, on the coast, by making 
a canal round the falls, near Haverhill. The expense 
was estimated at ;^200,000, and it is believed that the 
sale of water privileges would repay a large part of the 
sum. 

A direct water communication is kept up between this 
river and Boston, through the Middlesex Canal, by means 
of boats, which carry merchandise down for $5 a ton, 
and bring it up for $7. 

Roads. 

Several lines of stage coaches meet in this town three 
times a week. Three go to Boston, one to Portsmouth, 
one to Plymouth, one to Haverhill, and one to Burling- 
ton, by the way of Windsor. Another line has been 
established between this place and Conway, on the road 
to the jYotch in the Mountains. 

[From Plymouth a stage wagon goes through Franco- 
nia Notch to Littleton. The road follows the Pemige- 
wasset, through fine, magnificent scenery. The country, 
however, is almost uninhabited until reaching Franconia, 
where are iron works, and a curious profile on a moun- 
tain, called the Old Man of the Mountain. (See Index, 
Franconia.) There is an excellent inn at Littleton : 
the new brick one. The place is about 40 miles from 
Plymouth.] 

[Two routes have been proposed for connecting the 
Merrimack and Connecticut : 1st, by Baker's River to 
Wentworth ; and 2d, by way of Sunapee Lake, 810 feet 
above the Connecticut, and 858 above the Merrimack at 
Concord.] 



316 FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

There is a road on each side of the Lake towards Con- 
way, but that on the west is recommended. At all events 
the traveller should spend a day at Centre Harbour, to 
which the road is pleasant and the country agreeable, 
altliough there are but few villages on the way. 

Two roads from Concord lead to Meredith Bridge 
Village — (Badger's) 24 miles distant : one by Sandborn- 
ton bridge, (Tilton's) 15 miles — the other by the Shaker 
village, (Shaker's Inn and Coggsv/elFs) 12 miles. 

From M. B. Village, delightfully situated between 
two bays, and on the beautiful river that never freezes, 
it is nine miles to the shore of the Lake at Meredith 
Cove, and thirteen to Centre Harbour. (Center's and 
Moulton's.) 

For some miles before reaching that place, the country 
begins to assume the features of bold and mountain 
scenery. Even before arriving at the lake, the prospect 
is varied with many of those noble elevations which rise 
to such aheightof grandeur and sublimity as the traveller 
proceeds ; and the frequent glimpses afforded between 
the sloping hills, over the beautiful lake below, by a hap- 
py contrast increase the effect. 

WINNIPISEOGEE LAKE. 

The number and diversity of the islands with which 
the lake is spangled, will be objects of particular admi- 
ration. They are countless for multitude, and in size 
present all gradations between a single rock and a sur- 
face sufficient for several extensive farms. Iron ore is 
found in Gunstock Mountain, south of the lake. 

If a steam boat should be placed on Winnipiseogee 
Lake, the traveller hardly need be advised to take ad- 
vantage of it to make an excursion. A company was 
to be formed with this object last year. 

Centre Harbour. 

There are two inns here, at either of which the travel- 
ler mav find himself comfortable, and where he will be 



WIKNIl'ISEOGEE LAKE. olt 

amply rewarded, if the weather be fine, by stopping at 
least a day to make an excursion to the top of 

Red Mountain. 

This eminence may be about 1500 feet in height, and 
is accessible for about two-thirds of the way in a carriage 
or on liorseback, though not without some difficulty on 
account of the steepness and roughness of the road. In- 
deed the path is very rocky for half a mile or more before 
reaching the base of the mountain, and the hardy pedes- 
trian will prefer to leave his horse at the main road, be- 
fore turning oif by the mill. The traveller should direct 
iiis course towards a little notch he will see about three 
quarters of the distance up, where a cultivated field and 
a fence are visible. From the house situated there, he 
jiiust turn towards the left, and follow a path to the 
s ummit. 

An early visit is recommended, as the scene is mucli 
improved by an oblique light, and the morning is on seve- 
ral accounts to be preferred. 

The following sketch of the scene was noted down on 
tlie spot, and may be taken as generally correct. 

JVorih^ the eastern end of Squam Lake, and part of a 
pond lying near it, with the range of the Sandwich 
Mountains behind, stretching off towards the east, with 
numerous dark brown peaks, partly cultivated about 
their bases, and enveloped above with forests, excepting 
their summits, which are generally divested of verdure. 
Far beyond these appear several loftier peaks, which 
might be mistaken for the White Mountains, were they 
visible from this point. An intermediate peak with 
rocky precipices may be White-faced Mountain. 

East-Korth-East. The eye ranges up the spacious 
valley through which lies the way to the White Moun- 
tains ; and the road which is to conduct the traveller 
seems diminished to the dimensions of a garden walk. 
Cliocaway, or, as it is familiarly called, Corroway Peak, 
rises on the left ; while the noble ridge of the Ossipee 
Mountains begins nearer at hand on the right, and al- 



{jiH FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

most overshadows the observer with its enormous size. 
The sides of these mountains show a beautiful display 
of farms, interspersed with wood-lots and dwellings, 
which in many places have encroached far towards the 
summits, and in others pursue the slope of the fertile 
uplands to the valley at their feet. Numerous eleva- 
tions appear at a greater distance, and range themselves 
in lines to complete the perspective of a most magnifi- 
cent vista, which finally closes at a ridge, whose shade; 
is reduced by its remoteness to the colour of a cloud. 
A prominent and remarkable mountain, which appears 
scarcely less distant, is called Pickwaket Mountain, and 
rises by the Saco River, near the place where Captain 
Level fought his well-known battle with the Indians ; 
and the fine valley between is the country passed over in 
that fatal expedition, both in the approach and the re- 
treat. 

East. The view abuts upon the Ossipee Mountains, 
and no variety is afforded until we turn to the 

South-South- East. In that direction, and farther to 
the right, the whole surface of Winnipiseogee Lake lies 
charmingly spread out to view, varied by numerous 
points and headlands, and interspersed with beautiful 
islands which man despairs to number. Several distant 
elevations appear, on this side of which the sloping land 
just mentioned extends for several miles along the shore, 
with a well-cultivated surface spotted in all directions 
with large barns and farm houses, to the very margin 
of the lake. There numerous points run out far into 
the water, to complete the labyrinths formed by the is- 
lands. Gunstock Mountain rises one point east of south, 
just on the left of which opens the entrance of Merry- 
meeting Bay. The elevated island on the right of that 
is Rattlesnake Mand, named from the venemous reptiles 
Avith which it abounds ; over this the distant land ap- 
pears high. South by west rises a high hill resembling 
the Ossipee in the richness of its slopes. 

The South- fVest and West is agreeably varied with 
wood lots and cleared fields, scattered over an undulated 



VIEW FROM RED MOUNTAIN. 319 

surface, which extends for many miles, in some places 
quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken bounda- 
ry of tall but distant mountains. In the south-west ap- 
pear two or three peaks, so far removed that they are 
almost lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly west are seen 
several ridges of inferior magnitude, which, approaching 
as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come 
near the lake, and disappear behind the neighbouring 
mountains. 

Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining sur- 
face between the west and south, with several other lit- 
tle sheets of water, which lie in tranquillity under the 
shelter of the hills. 

Winnipiseogee Lake is 19 miles in length, from Cen- 
tre Harbour to Alton, at the south-eastern extremity. 
Merry-meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the islands 
are large, and contain good farms and wealthy inhabi- 
tants, although only two or three of them belong to any 
town, or pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rat- 
tlesnake, Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also, Half Mile, 
One Mile, Two Mile Island, &;c. &c. None of them con- 
tain churches ; and although they have no school hou- 
ses, yet sufficient attention is paid to the rudiments of 
education to render the cliildren intelligent.* 



Winnipiseogee Lake, according to surveys made by Mr. 
Baldwin in 1825, is 501 feet above the ocean. It has been 
proposed to begin a canal from Merry-meeting River, at 
the south end, to Dover, a distance of 28 miles, and to con- 
tinue the navigation through this lake, and Long, Square, 
and Little Squaw Lakes, to Merrimack River, making in all 
a distance of 65 miles. It will be necessai-y to raise the lake 
two feet by a dam at the outlet, and to cut to the depth of 
about 17 feet for 7 miles. The estimates, have been made for 
a canal of these dimensions : 25 foet wide at the bottom, 4 
feet of water, with stone loc1vsl2 feet in the clear and 82 
feet long. It will req'jire GO locks, which will cost $5,500 
each, and the cost from the lake to Dover is computed at 
S'590,9o2. If continued through the lakes to Merrimack River, 
to meet a canal from Baker's River, the expense would be 
incrciised to about .$'731,478. At that point, the distance 
rf 



320 FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

SciuAM Lake lies west from Red Mountain, and like 
Winnipiseogee Lake, abounds not only in islands, but 
in fish of the finest descriptions. Fine trout are caught 
here in great abundance, and of a size superior to tiiose 
of the other lake. The trout of Winnipiseogee liake 
vary from 1 to 4 pounds in weight, while those of Squam 
Lake are between 4 and 10. They are sometimes caught 
of nearly double this size ; but that is very uncommon. 
The trout fishery is chiefly carried on during the winter, 
when great quantities are salted for the Boston market. 
Perch also abound very much in these waters, and are 
remarkably fine. 

Geology. The sides of Red Mountain are covered 
with half decomposed granite. (On the south-eastern 
side of the lake a bed of porcelain clay has been discov- 
ered, which is probably derived from a similar source.) 
The granite is speckled with hornblende and black mica. 
No rocks are seen in situ except near the summit, 
where they bear a gentle dip towards the north, and are 
slightly tinged with reddish quartz and feldspar. 

The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the 
mountain its name. The summit is strewed with loose 
fragments ; and musquetoes and black files often abound 
there. 

A few days may be spent at Centre Harbour very 
agreeably, in making shooting and fishing excursions in 
the neighbourliood, or in sailing upon tlie lake, which 
abounds in the most interesting variety of scenes. On 
leaving this place by water, at the distance of five miles, 
the White Mountains rise into view above the interme- 
diate peaks, and continue in sight quite across the lake. 

A few deer are still found in some places in the neigh- 
bourhood, but being protected by law, and still more by 
their scarcity, are very rarely taken. 



from the Connecticut by Baker's River, is 34 miles. The 
facilities these works would afford for manufacturing would 
l)e very valuable, but the number of locks will be a great 
('l)iection. 



CONWAY. 321 

From C'kntre Harbour to Conway. 

Proceeding nortli-east from Centre Harbour, you enter 
the valley between the two chains of mountains seen 
from the top of Red Mountain, and pass through Moul- 
tonboro' and Tamworth. The surface is irregular, and 
much of the land uncleared ; but settlements have ex- 
tended far up the sides of some of the mountains, and 
farms are occasionally discovered quite at the top. The 
features of the scenery are bold and striking. 

Eaton Meeting House. Two miles northwardly 
from this, OssipeeLake may be seen by leaving the road; 
bat it has nothing very interesting in its appearance. 

Near Atkinson's inn is the Lead Mine. 

Conway, 6 miles. 

At Conway, there is a house kept by Mr. Abbett, at 
the dividing of the roads, which is comfortable, although 
heretofore without a tavern sign. The view of the White 
Mountains is very fine from this place, presenting a suc- 
cession of lofty ridges, the most distant of which are the 
peaks of Mounts Washington, Adams, Jefferson, Madi- 
son, Monroe and Quincy. The most prominent elevation 
on the right, with two summits, is Kearsearge, or Pick- 
waket : a level meadow lies in the foreground with an 
isolated, woody hill in the middle, and the Saco River, 
which rises on Mount Washington, and flows down a 
narrow valley, with many meanderings. 

The shortest road from Conway to the mountains 
loads directly to Bartlett : but the most travelled as 
well as the most agreeable route is by the way of Frye- 
burgh., where will be seen the beautiful tract of level 
country through which meanders the Saco River ; and 
the great Pickwaket Mountain, which rises from its 
border. That was the beautiful and fiivourite residence 
of the nation of Pickwaket Indians, and on the bank of 
LovePs Pond was fought a bloody battle between them 
and a company of troops from Massachusetts, in the year 
172.-,. 



322 FROM BOSTOM TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

[It is probable that a road will soon be made round 
the north end of the White Mountains, through the 
town of Adams, to avoid the Notch. The land is level 
in that direction, along the course of the Androscoggin, 
and the distance to Lancaster nearly the same. When- 
ever it shall be completed, it will offer a very agreeable 
route to the traveller, with fine views, but not so wild as 
those on the present route.] 

The Chalybeate Spring. 

Turn off from the road to the west about 2 miles north 
of Abbott's, cross the Saco, and enter a field, where it is 
found. A house is kept in the neighbourhood by Mrs. 
McMillan^ which has been lately overflowing with visi- 
ters during the warm season. The country abounds in 
scenes attractive to persons of taste. A little church 
is situated in a secluded and romantic valley ; and the 
place is destined for a fashionable resort. 

The place is off the road, and may be missed. It is in 
a valley, with mountains on every side except the south- 
east. From near the church, the White Mountains are 
in sight. Two or three miles above, the Saco valley 
bends to the left, and Ellis's River comes down a narrow- 
er one in front. Up the course of this stream was for- 
merly a route by which the highest peaks were ascended. 
A foot path leaves it in Adams, and goes on to Shel- 
burne, he. It is 7 miles to Hall's, in Bartlett. 

Fryeburgh, 

The township of Fryeburgh, in its extent of six square 
miles, embraces a rich and beautiful valley, secluded on 
every side by a wild and mountainous range of country. 
The Saco river, taking its rise on Mount Washington, and 
flowing through the Notch in the White Hills, passes 
down the valley to Conway, where it finds the termina- 
tion of the southern range ; and tlien turning abruptly 
to the east, soon enters tho charmins; meadows of Frvo 



lovel's expeditio.v. 323 

hurgh, and performs a serpentine course of no less than 
36 miles within the limits of the township. 

The Indian Fort was on a gentle hill at the western 
side of the villag-e, which commands a view of the Saco 
valley six miles up its course, and six miles down. 

Lovel's Pond 

is on an isthmus, about 1 mile south-ea3t from the village, 
and is memorable as the scene of one of the most severe 
and disastrous battles in ;,Jie old partizan w^arfare against 
the Indians. 

The Portland Road passes along the western side of 
the pond, and at present afioids a view of it only from 
that part of the high ground which is near its north end. 
'J'his, however, was the place of the action. Another 
road runs very near the north shore; and it is a pleasant 
ride to the place. 

Lovel's Expedition. 

In 1725, Captain Lovoll was induced to undertake a se- 
cret expedition through the wilderness against the Fick- 
waket tribe of Indians, who, instigated by the French, 
had committed many depredations on the frontier, so that 
the general court of Massachusetts had oftered 100 
pounds each for their scalps. His company consisted 
of 30 or 40 men, many of them accustomed to the life of 
hardy hunters and settlers, with young Mr. Frye for their 
chaplain, whose history was somewhat romantic, and 
from whom this town received its name. 

They passed up Winnipiseogee Lake, then to Ossipee 
Pond, where they built a block house, and placed their 
stores ; then following up the course of the Saco, en- 
camped at the mouth of Mill Brook at the north-west 
corner of Lovel's Pond, on the night preceding the bat- 
tle, intending to cross the isthmus, (which is reduced by 
the pond to the breadth of li miles,) and fall upon the 
Indian Fort. It happened, however, that the Indians 
had gone down the Saco River, having, as is conjectured, 
F f 2 



324 FROM BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

some suspicion of a hostile design ; and on their return, 
discovering tracks, pursued them towards Lovel's Pond. 

The white men heard a gun fired by a solitary Indian 
on the opposite side of the Pond, who was shooting 
ducks. They might have marched on and taken the 
fort ; but supposing this to be a signal of their discovery, 
they went a little way, and depositing their packs, soon 
after discovered the Indian, and mortally wounded him. 
He had two ducks in his hand, and two fowling pieces, 
one of v/hich being still loaded, he levelled at Lovel, 
and shot him. 

The party now perceived that the Indian was alone, 
and returned ; but the great body of Indians having dis- 
covered the encampment, and the way they had gone, 
removed their packs, and forming an ambush around the 
place, fired upon them on their return, and killed eight 
men. The white men retreated to the north-east corner 
of the pond, where is a narrow strip of land, and defend- 
ed themselves till night; and the remains of the unfor- 
tunate expedition returned through the forest, suffering 
from Iiunger and fatigue, and some of them from wounds. 
One of the first wounded escaped by getting into a 
canoe, which was driven across the pond by a north 
wind ; but a fugitive, who reached the block house at 
Ossipee Lake, reported that the expedition had been 
entirely cut oif, so that the garrison hastily removed the 
provisions, and thus increased the sufferings of the sur- 
vivors. 

In conformity with a very commendable custom lately 
introduced into this country, the centennial return of 
the day of this battle was celebrated at Fryeburgh in 
1825. 

The Stage Coach from Conway to Portland passes 
through Fryeburgh early in the morning, one or per- 
haps more days in the week, and arrives at P. the same 
evening, by Hiram, Baldwin, Standish, and Gorham. 

The coach to Concord goes through Conway. 

[Paris is a pleasant and flourishing town, about 35 
miles east from Fryeburgh ; but the roads and the inns 
in that part of the country are generally poor.] 



THE INUNDATION OF 1326. 3'2i 

A tremendous catastrophe occurred amon^ the White 
Mountains on the night of Aug-. 28tli, 1828. A storm 
of rain, unprecedented within the memory of the okJest 
inhabitants, deluged the principal peaks of the moun- 
tains, and poured such an inundation upon the valleys 
and plains below, tliat it is cpmmonly attributed to the 
" bursting of a cloud ;" although that expression is a 
very ill-defined one. The effects produced by the flood 
will remain for centuries ; and as many of these lie ex- 
posed to the eye, tlie route will offer many new objects 
interesting to an intelligent traveller. It will afford him 
a very desirable opportunity to observe, in some places, 
the structure of the mountains, where their interior has 
been laid bare by the falling of vast quantities of earth 
and rocks ; and in others, exemplifications to confirm 
the modern geognostical theories, to explain the phe- 
nomena observable in valleys, plains, and the courses of 
rivers. Geologists, and mineralogists too, may expect to 
meet with curious and valuable specimens, among the 
enormous wrecks they will observe on either liand. 

The inundation was so great and so sudden, that the 
channels of the streams were totally insufficient to admit, 
of the passage of the water, which consequently over- 
flowed the little level valleys at the feet of the moun- 
tains. Innumerable torrents immediately formed on all 
sides ; and such deep trenches were cut by the rushing 
water, that vast bodies of earth and stones fell from the 
mountains, bearing with them the forests that had cover- 
ed them for ages. Some of these " slides,"" as they arc 
here popularl}- denominated, (known among the Alps as 
" avalanches de terre,'''') are supposed to have been half a 
mile in breadth, and from one to five miles in length. 
Scarcely any natural occurrence can be imagined more 
sublime ; and among the devastation which it has left to 
testify the power of the elements, the traveller will be 
filled with awe at the thought of that Being by whom 
they are controlled and directed. 

The streams brought away with them immense quan- 
tities of earth and sand, which the turbid water deposit- 
ed, when any obstacle threw it back, in temporary pond-s 



.Y2f'} Tifr. -wniTE .aiol-xtai.vs. 

and lakop. The forest trees were also floated down, and 
may now be observed in great numbers, frequently several 
iriiles from the places where they were rooted up. The 
timber was often marked with deep groves and trenches, 
made by the rocks which passed over them during their 
descent from the mountains ; and great heaps of trees 
are deposited in some places, while in others, the soil of 
tlie little meadows is buried with earth, sand, or rocks^ 
to the depth of several feet. 

The turnpike road leading through this romantic coun- 
tiy, was twenty miles in length, but was almost entirely 
destroyed. Twenty-one of the twenty-three bridges 
upon it were demolished ; one of them, built with stone, 
cost ^1000. In some places, the Saco river ran along 
the road, and cut down deep channels. 

The J^olch House^ (which is represented in one of the 
prints,) was the scene of a most melancholy tragedy on 
the night above mentioned, when this inundation oc- 
curred. Several days previously a large " slide" came 
down from the mountains behind it, and passed so near 
as to cause great alarm, without any injury to the in- 
mates. The house was occupied by Mr. Calvin Willey, 
whose wife was a young woman of a very interesting 
t'haracter, and of an education not to be looked for in so 
wild a region. They had a number of young children, 
and their family at the time included several other per- 
sons, amounting in all to eleven. They were waked in 
the night by the noise of the storm, or more probably, 
hy the second descent of avalanches from the neighbour- 
ing mountains ; and fled in their night clothes from the 
house to seek their safety, but thus threw themselves iu 
the way of destruction. One of tlie slides, 100 feet high, 
stopped within 3 feet of the house. Another took away 
tlie barn, and overwhelmed the family. Noticing was 
found of them for some time : their clothes were lying- 
at their bedsides, the house had been started on its 
foundation, by an immense heap of earth and timber, 
whic^h had slid down and stopped as soon as it touched 
it ; and they had all been crushed on leaving the door, or 
borne away with the water that overflowed the meadow. 



THE OLD CRAWFORD FAR.M, 32^/ 

The bodies of several of them were never found. A 
catastrophe so melancholy, and at the same time so sin- 
gular in its circumstances, has hardly ever occurred. It 
will always furnish the traveller with a melancholy sub- 
ject of reflection. 

Bartlett is a comfortable village, situated in a rich 
valley, or interval, of about 300 acres, where the view i.s 
bounded on every side by near and lofty mountains. 
The inn of the place is kept by ' Judge Hall.' There is 
another interval among the mountains westward, which, 
although it contains as much good cleared land, has 
been converted into a common, in consequence of the 
difficulty of making a good road to it. Pursuing still 
the course of the narrow valley, against the current of 
the Saco, the country is found uncleared, except two or 
three pretty little meadows; and destitute of inhabitants, 
excepting only three or four poor families, until arriving- 
at 

Crawford's Farm, 

seven and a half miles south of the Notch. Here the 
traveller will be cheerfully and comfortably entertained, 
although the house does not wear the sign of an inn. 
The water rose in this house two feet in the flood of 1826. 
This is the place from which visiters formerly began 
their excursions to the summit of the mountains : but 
the best place is at Ethan A. Crawford's farrn^ 12 miles 
beyond. 

Prospect Mountain, one of the principal peaks, pre- 
sents itself to view a little before arriving at the first 
Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown 
moss, rising several hundred feet above the region of ve- 
getation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes these 
from the other elevations. 

The climate in this narrow valley is still so warm as 
to favour the growth of various trees which are scarcely 
to be found a few miles further north. The forests are 
here formed of spruce, ash, beech, maple, sugar maple, 
&r. Mr, Crawford has about 100 acres cleaned, and 



32o THE WHITE MOUM'AIi\S. 

raises Inrlian corn veiy well, which will not corne to 
maturity beyond. His orchard contains 700 apple trees. 

This is one of the principal stopping' places for the 
sleighs, which pass the mountains in great numbers du- 
ring the winter, for Portland, Boston, &c. There are 
sometimes 80 horses in the stables. 

JVancy''s Hill is a small elevation a few miles north of 
this place. In 1773 a young woman of respectable con- 
nexions, who accompanied a family of settlers to Dart- 
mouth, (now Jefferson,) set out in the winter to return 
to Portsmouth, alone and on foot, her lover having 
promised to meet her there and marry her. There was 
then no house nearer than Bartlett, 30 miles. Nancy 
was found by some travellers in this spot, frozen and 
covered with ice, vmder a shelter formed of branches of 
trees, which was the only shelter to bo found on the 
way. 

The Notch House 

is situated in a secluded little valley, about 5 miles north 
of CrawfordX and is the only building seen in a distance 
of 12 miles. It has sometimes been uninhabited during 
the summer season, though open with its cheerless shel- 
ter, to all comers : in the winter a family occupies it to 
keep a fire, lodgings, and a little food, provided for the 
travellers and wagoners, who might otherwise perish 
for want of the necessaries of life. For dn account of 
the melancholy catastrophe which has marked this 
place with an affecting and lasting association, see the 
previous remarks on the inurulalion of 1826. (»See page 
325.) 

The climate is so cold, that the land is not worth cul- 
tivating ; and althoiigh the place has been occupied by 
several tenants, no one will keep the house in repair, 
even rent free. There are no good uplands, the soil there 
being all gravel ; and the climate is sensibly colder than 
at the last stopping place. 

There is a place near the Match, where the road suf- 
fered severe injury. It had been built up against the 
side of a mountnin, on a wall 40 or ,>0 feet high, and 



TlIK NOTOlf. J29 

about 30 yards in extent, at the expense of $500. 
Tliis whole fabric was swept away by a mass of earth, 
rocks and trees, which came from a half a mile up the 
side of the mountain, and, rushing down at an angle of 
about 45°, precipitated itself into the bed of the Saco, 
which is nearly 300 feet below. 

In repairing this road in the winter, the workmen had 
great difficulty in getting over the obstructions. They 
expected to find but little daylight at that late season of 
the year ; but they found that tlie summits of the moun- 
tains received very early intelligence of morning, and 
the snows reflected it into the valleys and ravines. 

The road rises with a steep ascent for a considerable 
distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller 
observes two cataracts, one pouring down a precipitous 
jnountain at a distance on the west side of the valley, 
and the other, which is called 

The Flumb, 

rushing down on the right hand, and crossing the road 
under a bridge. The scenery is sublime and impressive 
beyond description. Just beyond is another Flume. 

About 150 yards beyond is the first great slide seen 
in coming from the Notch. 

The Notch 

is so narrow as to allow only room enough for the path 
and the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four feet 
in breadth. It is remarkable that the Saco and the Am- 
inonoosuc spring from fountains on Mount Washington, 
within, perhaps, 60 yards of each other, though the 
former empties into the Atlantic, and the latter joins 
Connecticut River. Another branch of the Ammonoosuc 
approaches the Saco in one place, within about 600 
yards. They are both crossed beyond the Notch. Tlie 
liead waters of the Merrimack rise within about a mile 
and a half of this place ; and run down a long ravine, 
jittlo less remarkable tlian that of the Saco. 



330 Tiii: wHiTi; uovstaiss, 

A road was first made througli the Notch in 1785. It 
was 50 or CO feet higher than the present turnpike, and 
fe'o steep that it was necessary to draw horses and wagons 
up with ropes. The assessment for the turnpike was 
made in 1806. 

Two rocks stand at the sides of this remarkable pas- 
sage, one 20, and the other about 30 feet, ui perpendicu- 
lar height. They are about 20 feet asunder, at 6 or 7 
yards from the north end ; where they open to 30 feet. 
The part wliich appears to have been cut through is 
about 120 feet long. A little meadow opens beyond ; 
and after a ride of 4^ miles, the traveller reaches a com- 
fortable house, just completed by Mr. E. A. Crawford, 
where lie will be received and entertained. 

Ethan A. Crawford's Hou.^e 

is the place where those who meditate the ascent of 
Mount Washhigton, will stop for a day or more. The 
.master of the house will act as a guide, and is well quali- 
fied for the office, both by his intimate acquaintance with 
the way, and the various kind attentions and amusing 
anecdotes with which he knows how to relieve the te- 
diousness of the ascent. The best arrangement is to set 
out in the afternoon, spend the night at the weekwam or 
" Camp^^- ascend the mountain early in the morning, to 
have- the benefit of the view by sun rise, and return to 
Crawford's before the ensuing evening. It is 6| miles 
to the " Camp," 3 of %vhich are passable in a carriage 
and the rest on horseback. 

MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

The ascent of the mountain was formerly a most ardu- 
ous undertaking, and was very rarely performed, but 
.several ladies have lately been enumerated among those 
who have gained the summit. The whole way lies through 
a perfect forest. The first seven miles are over a sur- 
face comnarativcly level ; but the last two miles and a 



MOUNT WASHINGTOxV. 331 

quarter are up an ascent not differing much from an an- 
gle of forty-five degrees. 

The time to perform the different parts of this excur- 
sion may be estimated as follows : 

hours. 

From Crawford's to the Camp, 6|m. 2 

Thence to the summit, 2 miles and 93 rods, 2or2i 

Returning from summit to Camp, 1^ 

Thence to Crawford's, 2 

The streams of the Ammonoosuc River, which are to 
be crossed seven times, show the ravages of the inunda- 
tion of 1826, but a comfortable bed, and a fire, (if the 
weather be chill,) will be found very welcome at 

The Camp, 

6t miles from Crawford's. Here provisions of different 
kinds will be produced, and even cooked by a cheerful 
fire ; and if the travellers are sportsmen, and the season 
is favourable, a dish of fine trout may soon be obtained 
from the romantic little stream which dashes by within 
twenty yards of the encampment. 

The ascent of Mount Washington begins just at hand, 
and the most arduous exertion will be necessary to at- 
tain the summit, which seems to fly before the stranger 
when he deems it just attained, and to look down in de- 
rision from a new and more hopeless height. The first 
part of the way is through a thick forest of heavy tim- 
ber, which is suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf 
and knarled fir-trees, 10 or 15 feet high, and 80 rods, or 
about 430 yards, broad ; which, ending as suddenly as 
they began, give place to a kind of short bushes, and 
finally a thin bed of moss, not half sufficient to conceal 
the immense granite rocks which deform the surface. 
For more than a mile, the surface is entirely destitute of 
trees. A few straggling spiders, and several species of 
little flowering plants are the only objects that attract 
the attention, under the feet. 

The following heights are stated to be those of th# 



532 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

different peaks, above the level of Connecticut River at 
Lancaster. 

Washington, 5,350 

Jefferson, 5,261 

Adams, 5,183 

Madison, : 5,039 

Monroe, 4,932 

Quincy, 4,470 

Mount Washington is believed to be more than 6,400 
feet above the ocean. 

In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime, and almost 
boundless. The finest part of it is towards the south- 
east and south. Looking down the valley, through which 
the road has conducted us, a line succession of mountain- 
ous summits appear for many miles extending below the 
bright surface of Winipiseogee Lake. 

Towards the south-east also, the eye ranges over an ex- 
tent of surface, which quite bewilders the mind. Moun- 
tains, hills, and valleys, farm houses, villages, and towns, 
add their variety to the natural features of the countiy ; 
and the ocean may be discovered at the horizon with the 
help of a telescope, although the sharpest sight perhaps 
has never been able to distinguish it without such assist- 
ance. In that direction lies Portland, the capital of 
Maine ; and nearer, Lovefs Pond. 

On the north-east is seen the valley of the Androscog- 
gin River, which abounds in wild and romantic scenery, 
and was the usual passage by which the Indians, in 
their hostile incursions from Canada, used to approach 
the eastern frontier settlements of Massachusetts and 
New-Hampshire. Beyond, are the Ktardin Hills, near 
the extremity of Maine. 

A''orth, the country is more wild and uncultivated ; 
and Umbagog Lake is seen, from which flows the An- 
droscoggin. 

JVest^ the nearer view is over a mountainous region, 
covered with a thick forest, through which only an occa- 
sional opening is perceived, formed by the farms (or 
clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the hills 
a.re seen to rise from the opposite shore of Connecticut 



MOUNT WASHINGTON, 333 

River, the surface of which is every where hidden from 
view, and the sunnnits, rising higher and liigher, termi- 
nate in the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont. 

South-westerly is seen the Grand Monadnock. 

The Indians knew the White Mountains by the name 
of Agiocochock, and regarded them as inaccessible, or 
at least represented them so to white men. 

The Lake of the Clouds 

is a little pond, near the summit of Mount Monroe, of 
beautiful clear water ; and supplies the head stream of 
the Ammonoosuc River. This little current immediately 
begins its descent, and dashes in a headlong course of 
several thousand feet, irito the valley near the encamp- 
ment. 

Geology. 

Loose fragments of granite are every where scattered 
over the mountain, with some specimens of gneiss. The 
granite is generally gray, and at first fine-grahied, but 
grows coarser as we ascend, and is occasionally sprinkled 
with small garnets. At the sunnnit it frequently con- 
tains a little black tourmaline, sometimes in crossing 
chrystals. On the summit, also, some of the granite in 
tinged with red, although much of it is coloured bright 
green by lichens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, 
and interspersed with thick and soft gray moss. The 
grain of the coarse granite is elongated; and what strikes 
the visiter as very singular, is, that not a single rock iff 
to be found in its original place — every thing bears the 
mark of removal ; and this, taken into view with the 
precipice on the northern side, seems to indicate that the 
summit of the mountain lias fallen down and disappear- 
ed. 

General Remarks. 

All travellers of taste and leisure will be desirous of 



3^4 'rilE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

spending some time among the impressive scenery of 
these stupendous mountains ; and as the accommoda- 
tions for strangers beeome enlarged and improved, the 
place cannot fail to attract great numbers of visiters. 

Those who take delight in scenes of this description, 
always feel an additional gratification when they can 
reflect, that the mountains around them are the highest, 
and the region the most wild and uninhabited. In such 
reflections the traveller may indulge among the White 
Hills : for although the peaks of Ktardin and Speckled 
Mountain, in Maine, have been, by some, compared 
with Mount Washington ; it has been done on mere con- 
jecture, and with little appearance of probability. The 
general belief now seems to be, that the lofty peak above 
us is the highest elevation in North America, except 
Mexico ; although some of the Rocky Mountains are 
but little inferior. The inhospitable nature of the cli- 
mate is such as to forbid all hopes of future improve- 
ment ; so that the feeling of sublimity, produced by the 
lonely and desolate character of this desert region, is in- 
creased by the reflection, that it is destined to be a wilder- 
ness for ever. 

The only places susceptible of cultivation in the heart 
of the mountains, are the little meadows inhabited by 
the Crawfords, and that at the " Notch House ;" and 
there the interval of warm weather is so short in the 
year, that few vegetables can arrive at maturity, with 
all the rapidity of growth which distinguishes such cold 
regions. Indeed, the shortness and uncertainty of crops, 
with the expense of keeping stock, &c. would scarcely 
allow the farmer a support, without the advantages 
afforded by the thoroughfare, which is particularly great 
during the winter season. Population, therefore, may 
extend to the borders of these regions, and increase, as 
it does, on every side ; but it cannot pass the limit, be- 
cause it cannot contend with their coldness and sterility. 

To those who are fond of field sports, the forests and 
rivers afford every advantage, during the brief summer 
which visits the vallevs. Various kinds of wild birds 



and game are to be found in the woods, beside bears, 
wild cats, and deer. The moose and butfalo were for- 
merly abundant among the mountains ; and it is scarce- 
ly thirty years since they were killed in great numbers, 
merely for their hides and tallow ; as the latter still are 
in the deserts beyond the Mississippi. Deer are com- 
mon in the woods, and freijuently are killed by the 
hunters. Sometimes they come boldly down into the 
little meadow before Crawford's house, and quietly 
graze with the cattle. The black bear are occasionally 
seen in the more unfrequented places ; but they will 
always endeavour to avoid a man. A large species of 
elk, here known by the name of the Cariboo, has 
made its appearance in the White Mountains within a 
few years ; but they are still very scarce in this part of 
the country. 

The weather is liable to frequent changes in the 
mountainous region, which is partly owing to the vi- 
cinity of the JVolch, through which the wind blows, al- 
most without ceasing, even when the air is perfectly still 
at only a short distance from it. From the situation of 
the mountains, it is impossible that the direction of the 
wind should vary materially in the valley ; and it is 
therefore, of course, always north or south. During 
the winter it is often very violent, so that not only the 
snow is prevented from lying on the path at the Notch ; 
but the surface is swept of every thing that a strong 
wind can remove. 

The summits of the mountains are frequently invest- 
ed with mist, when the sky is clear ; and those only who 
inhabit the vicinity, are able to tell whether the day is 
to be favourable for the ascent. The mists sometimes 
collect in the valleys, and then present some of the most 
singular and beautiful appearances, 

Ro.\Ds. There are two roads hence to Connecticut 
Ruitr ; one over Cherry Mountain (quite laborious) to 
Lancaster ; the other, shorter, through Breton Woods, 
Bethlehem, and Littleton, (rough and stony) to Bath, 
34 miles. [See Index.] 

Gg2 



^>Jfe> KOUTE VEOM BOSTOX TO i/AlM.- 



IIOUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINE. 

Aline of Steam Navigation was commenced in 1823 
between Boston and Portland and Bath ; and extended 
in 1824, about 250 miles from Bath to Eastport in one 
direction, and about 40 miles to Augusta in another ; 
and in 1825, again about 70 miles from Eastport to St. 
John's, in New-Brunswick, by proprietors residing at 
Eastport ; and from St. John's up the River St. John's 
about 80 miles to Frederickton, by proprietors residing 
at St. John's ; and in another direction by the Eastport 
proprietors, from Eastport about 30 miles on the Schoodic 
to St. Andrew's and Calais. Two boats were afterwards 
put upon a line from Eastport to Annapolis and Wind- 
sor, in Nova Scotia. Another boat is to run from East- 
port to Dennisville, a distance of 20 or 30 miles. The 
line before occupied, including all its collateral branches 
and ramifications, exceeds 500 miles, and is now about 
700 miles. 

It is proposed in Boston, to enlarge the canal across 
Cape Ann, to admit the steam boats, which will save 15 
miles, and give an opportunity to communicate, direct- 
ly or by smaller boats, with Gloucester, Newburyport, 
Portsmouth, Dover, and Kennebunk. 

The boats go about 100 miles a day, and pass so near 
the shore as to afford many interesting views of the 
numerous islands, points, and bays, which abound along 
the coast. In 1826, the steamboat was burnt on this 
line. The price was, from Boston to Portland, $5 ; 
thence to Eastport, |6, with a deduction for forward pas- 
sengers. (The arrangements for 1828 not known.) 

There are coaches going to Salem every hour in the 
morning and forenoon ; and it may, perhaps, be conve- 
nient to take a seat in one of them, as Salem is well 
worthy of at least a day's delay. Indeed, if convenient, 
the stranger would be gratified with several rides in the 
vicinity of that place, particularly to Marblchead. 



SALEM. ■ 337 

Lyxn, 9 miles from Boston. 

This town is devoted to making- shoes ; great num= 
bers of which are annually exported. Each house, al- 
most without exception, has a little shop connected with 
it, in which the men and boys employ themselves in this 
manufacture. 

The Lynn Beach, of which mention has before been 
made, is in this town, and lies on the way to the fashion- 
able retreat at Nahant. It is of hard sand, offering an 
excellent natural road, but is impassable at high water. 
The bay on which it looks is one of the places where 
the famous sea serpent was seen several years ago. 

There is a good inn in the town where the stage 
coaches stop. 

The country beyond is rather hilly and uninteresting ; 
but the road is good. 

Beverly 

is a town which joins Salem so closely, as apparantly to 
form a part of it. It has a long street through which 
we pass, nearly at the foot of a high, barren hill. This 
eminence is remarkable in the history of witchcraft ; as 
it is the spot where numerous persons condemned for 
that crime, in Salem, were executed. 

SALEM. 

The Lafayette Hotel. 

This is one of the most populous, wealthy, and beauti- 
ful towns in New-England. It was one of the earliest 
settlements made in Massachusetts Bay ; and the plant- 
ing of the colony is annually celebrated. Governor 
Endicott, one of the most distinguished individuals in 
the early history of this part of the country, resided here. 

Salem was for many years engaged in an extensive 
and lucrative commerce, particularly with China ; and 
the appearance of the town is sufficient to show that it 
still contains a ffreat deal of wealth. The harbour is 



338 ROUTE FROM BOSTON TO MAINK. 

fine, and the wharves still well supplied with stores ; 
but the trade of the place has materially diminished. 
The streets are generally too narrow ; but the banks, in- 
surance offices, and churches are many of them hand- 
some buildings. The Square is a large and beautiful 
tract of ground, near the centre of the town. About it 
are seen many of the finest private buildmgs in the 
place, which, indeed, may be compared for size and 
elegance, with those in any part of the United States. 

The Marine Museum is an institution highly credita- 
ble to the town, being an association of respectable nau- 
tical and commercial individuals, formed for the purpose 
of making- useful observations, and collecting curiosities 
from all quarters of the world. No one can become a 
member who has not doubled Cape Horn, or tlie Cape 
of Good Hope, either as master or supercargo of a ves- 
sel ; and each of them is supplied with a journal, in 
which he is to note down such remarks as he thinks im- 
portant, during his voyages. These are submitted to the 
inspection of a committee ; and the cariosities brought 
home are deposited in a handsome building belonging to 
the society, which is well worthy the particular atten- 
tion of strangers. 

Access is readily gained by application to any of the 
members : this extensive and highly interesting cabinet 
being closed only for the purpose of security, and no 
fee being required tor admission. The room is large, 
well lighted, and filled with curiosities from all quar- 
ters of the world, and many specimens belonging to 
all the branches of natural history. The arrangement 
is made with great taste, and several hours, or indeed 
days, will hardly be sufficient for an examination of all 
it contains. 

The following lines were written after a visit to this 
interesting institution, oy Beltrami, a distinguished scien- 
tific traveller, in the year 1827. 

" Siste Viator ! Siste, mirare ! est Orbis in urbe, 
" Et prsbet pulchrum cuncta miranda Salem. — 
" Obstupui, hie Superum, hinc hominum prodigia vidi, 
" Pontus, Magna Parens, Ignis et Ipse favent. — 



:>IARBLEnEAD, 339 

'' Oh America: Oh,felix tellus, populusque beatus 1 
" Quam nobis tollunt dant tibi fata vicem. — 
The top of the hotel commands a fine and extensive 
view, over the town and its environs, with the harbour, 
and the fine coves which set up on both sides. A Mill 
Dam Company has been incorporated, to enclose a tract 
of water near this town, to obtain power for mills, on 
the plan of the Boston and Roxbury mill dam. The re- 
ceiving basin is to be about 70 acres, and the power equal 
to 40 mills. 

Marblehead. 

There is a good road to this town, which stands at the 
end of a rocky promontory, 4 miles south-east from Sa- 
lem. It contains a handsome square, and some very 
good houses ; but it is principally inhabited by fisher- 
men, whose manner of life precludes, in a great degree, 
the intellectual improvement generally so characteristic 
of New-England. The harbour is a small bay, protected 
by barren rocks, and aifords shelter to the numerous 
fishing schooners employed in the Cod fishery. The 
men and boys are absent from home a great part of the 
year ; as each vessel usually makes three fishing voyages, 
or "/are^," as they are here called, every season. They 
lie on the Banks until they have caught a load of fish, 
which are opened and salted as soon as taken. The 
vessels then return, and the fish are spread to dry on 
wooden frames, called flakes ; great numbers of which 
will be seen on the shore. A few vessels still go to the 
Labrador coast for fish. There is a fort at the extremity 
of the town, which commands the entrance to the har- 
bour, and affords a view of many miles over the neigh- 
bouring sheets of water. The islands at the entrance of 
Salem are wild and rocky ; and the sea breaks over 
them with violence in an easterly storm. Towards the 
south are seen several headlands of this iron-bound coast; 
which, for a great extent, even down to the extremity of 
Massachusetts, must have appeared one of the most in- 
hospitable to the pilgrims, who began their settlements 
on this part of New-England. 



340 route from boston to maine. 

Newburvport. 

Stage House, or Merrimack Hotel, on the hill. This 
is a large, and to a considerable extent, a regularly built 
town, 38 miles from Boston. The greater pait of it lies 
in squares, and the best streets are buiit entirely of brick. 
What is commonly called Newburyport, however, is 
composed of two distinct towns. The original township 
of Newbury includes that part, which reaches to within 
about a quarter of a mile of the shore ; and the rest, a 
mile along the water, where the wharves, the market 
building, most of the stores, shops, &c. are found, is all 
which is properly speaking called Newburyport, although 
there is no division but an imaginary line. 

The Court House makes a handsome appearance, at 
the head of a street running to the river. 

The harbour is fine, and the place once enjoyed a 
brisk and lucrative commerce ; but it has sutfered severe- 
ly from two great fires, within a few years, and still more 
from circumstances which cut off the trade. A plan is 
now maturing for the improvement of the navigation of 
the Merrimack, which, if carried into effect, can hardly 
fail to produce results of great importance to the place. 
The falls at Haverhill cut off the boat navigation, at the 
distance of about 12 miles ; but if these were avoided by 
a canal, the water communication would be opened to 
Concord, and a great part of the products now sent to 
Boston, by the Middlesex Canal, would come to Newbu- 
ryport. It is estimated, that the work would cost about 
two hundred thousand dollars, and that the water power 
it would furnisli for machinery might be sold for about 
an equal sum. 

Stage Coaches. The mail coach from Boston for 
Portland arrives at 7 A. M. and returns about 2 P. M. 
There is also an Accommodation Line, which travels on- 
I3' by day light. The Concord coach leaves here about 
noon. (The Steamboat Merrimack runs to Haverhill.) 

The late Timothy Dexter's house is now a tavern, 
about half a mile from the stasfe house, on the road to 



AMESBURY. 341 

Portsmouth. The garden was formerly curiously orna- 
mented with wooden statues of distinguished individuals. 

The bridge over the Merrimack, is a most beautiful 
structure. Its length is 1000 feet ; and it has four arch- 
es and a drawbridge, on the side towards the town. The 
arches are supported by twelve chains, carried over four 
towers in the form of pyramids, 31 feet above high wa- 
ter mark. The bases of these towers are of hewn stone, 
40 by 30 feet, buiit on timber, each with a breakwater 
up the stream. The chains, separately, are strong 
enough to bear 22 tons. The bridge, with the road to 
Newburyport, cost ^66,000. 

Hampton, 10 miles. At Hampton Beach is a good 
hotel, which comimands an agreeable view upon the 
ocean, and the shore about the Boar's Head. 

Po tS''oi;th, 
G2 miles from Bj. ton, b^ from Portland, 

Brown's Stage House. 

The environs of the town show many neat and plea- 
sant houses of wood ; and the middle part of it is princi- 
pally of brick, with some handsome public buildings, 
although the streets are generally too narrow. It has 
been a place of much commerce. The old church is a 
specimen of old times. The Navy Yard, on an island 
opposite the town, contains two large ship buildings, 
one for frigates and the other for line-of-battle ships. 

The bridge across the Piscataqua, leads into the state 
of Maine, which was, until within three or four years, a 
district of Massachusetts. The current is very strong. 
The navy yard is seen on the east, with the ship houses, 
&c. 

[Amesbury is a manufacturing place on the Powow 
river, 3 miles from Newburyport. The river is made to 
drain several ponds by an arched tunnel made through 
a hill about a century ago. There is a Nail Factory 
Iiere, originally built by the famous mechanist Jacob 
Perkins. A Roiling and Slitting mill is adjoining. Ex- 



o4ii KOUTE FKOM BOSTON TO MAINE. 

tensive Anchor works, now standing still, are on the 
same dam. 

The Broadcloth factory, supplied with water by a dam 
below, is also not in operation. The Salisbury Flannel 
Factory has 2500 spindles, employs 80 hands, and makes 
100 pieces of flannel weekly. They have built a much 
larger one at the upper falls. The Amesbury Flannel 
Factory have a building 40 feet by 130, 4 stories high, 
with 5000 spindles, 1 80 workmen, and makes 200 pieces 
a week. Houses for dying, bleaching and fulling are on 
the wharf. There is also a machine shop. Men receive 
^1, and women 50 cts. a day. 

The building is 200 feet long, 50 wide, 5 stories high, 
and will contain 10,000 spindles, and make 400 pieces in 
a week. All the Flannel works in full operation will 
make 35,000 pieces of flannel in a year, and employ 
about 1000 hands. 

There are several other mills and factories ; though 
the whole ground occupied is only 40 rods.] 

The country on this road is of a gently rolling form, 
generally very poor, without trees, and changing only 
from sand to rocks ; and aflbrds very few objects of 
interest, except an occasional view of the sea shore, and 
several spots remarkable for their connexion with the 
history of the country. 

York. There ai-e some pleasant fields about this little 
place, but its size is insignificant, particularly when 
contrasted with the anticipations formed of its destiny 
at the time of its first settlement : for the ground was 
laid out for a city, and the divisions of the land still 
retain much of the regular form given it by the first 
surveyors. 

The Nubble is a rocky point, 4^ miles from York, 
with a cluster of miserable huts in the rear, called, in 
derision, the city, or metropolis of Cape Neddock, from 
a point of that name still further on. 

While travelling along this dreary country, near the 
place where a round hill of a peculiar appearance first 
presents itself in front, and then the ocean, tho road 



IVDLLEs;. 343 

passes the site of an old fort or block house, built before 
Pliilip's war. Nothing- is now to be seen of it from the 
road, exoeptirig a part of the old wall, which is ouilt of 
large stones, Jaid with greater regularity than is prac- 
tised now. A hovel stands near the wall, shaded by a 
few trees, about 100 yards west of the road. 

The Agamenticus Hills form a range some distance 
west. 

Lower Welles. There is a little harbour here, de- 
fended by a sand bar, with a narrow entrance under a 
rock ; but it is almost dry at low water. 

Welles. The sea often breaks beautifully on the 
beach, in front of the tavern. Porpoise Point is just 
distinguishable in the north-east ; and the view of the 
sea is fine and refreshing. 

Three miles beyond is Breakneck Hill, over which 
falls a small stream, from the height of 30 feel, about 40 
yards from the path. Here, says a blind tradition, a 
small tribe of Indians met an indiscriminate destruction, 
in the following manner. Being on their return from 
their annual fishing excursion on the upper part of the 
stream, they despatched some of their number to make 
a fire on the rock which divides the falls, as they found 
they should not reach this place before night. The white 
men in the neighbourhood by some means learning their 
design, shot the messengers, and then collecting the 
limbs of trees, made a great fire on the high bank below 
on the opposite side of the road. The Indians, says the 
story, being deceived, did not attempt to stop their ca- 
noes in season, and were all carried over the falls and 
kille4. A similar tale is related, with more appearance 
of credibility, of the falls on the Androscoggin River. 

The Fort was half a mile beyond, or a quarter of a 
mile north from the church. The site is dif-tlnguish- 
ed by the angle of an old wall, built of large, regular, 
but unhewn stones, on the east side of the road. The 
marks of the foundation appear to be yet visible a little 
back, and the situation is very pleasant, with a smooth 
plain around it, and a gentle slope in the rear to a little 
meadow, where the settlers used to obtain their hav- The 
If h 



344 ROUTE IN MAINE. 

ocean is in full view below. This little fortress was 
once attacked by 500 Indians, who at first supposed, as 
was the fact, that the men were absent from home. The 
place was, however, very bravely and successfully de- 
fended by five women, who put on their husbands' clothes, 
and fired so warmly upon their invaders, as to force them 
to retreat. 

Kennebunk, 25 miles from Portland. Here the mail 
coach from Portland stops for breakfast. It is a small 
place, but once carried on a considerable lumber trade 
with the West Indies. 

Saco, fifteen miles from Portland. Just south of this 
village is the mouth of the Saco, which rises on Mount 
Washington. Cutts's Island of 75 acres divides the 
stream, just at the falls, and is to be converted to Man- 
ufacturing- purposes. 

The soil here is very rocky, easily furnishing materials 
for building, which has already commenced on a large 
scale. The fail is about thirty feet, the water abundant 
at all seasons, and there is a landing place for vessels 
only a few yards distant, which will greatly favour the 
transportation of raw and manufactured articles. The 
land bought in 1825 on the island, with a portion of the 
water power, cost about .;^'100,000. Great quantities of 
timber have long been sawn at these falls. 

PORTLAND, 15 miles. 

Mitchell's Hotel. The Stage House. 

The situation of this place is remarkably fine, occupy- 
ing the ridge and side of a high point of land with a 
handsome, though shallow bay, on one side, and the 
harbour on the other. The anchorage is protected on 
every side by land, the water is deep, and the communi- 
cation with the sea direct and convenient. Congress- 
street runs along the ridge of the hill, and contains a 
number of very elegant private houses. There is also 
the Town Hall, with the market below, and a beautiful 
new church, with granite columns. The steps are fine 
blocks of granite, 6 feet by 9, brought from the quarry 



PORTLAND. 345 

at Brunswick, 22 miles distant, and cost about ^'40 each. 
This street rises, as it approaches the end of the neck or 
promontory, to the Observatory, a tower 82 feet high, 
and, with its base, 142 feet above the water, commanding 
an extensive and very fine view on every side. 

From the Observatory, south and south-west are 
several distant eminences : among others, the Agomen- 
ticus Hiils; north-west are seen, in clear weather, the 
lofty ridges and peaks of the White Hills in New-Hamp- 
shire, which are discovered at sea, often before the 
nearer land appears in sight. The country on the north 
presents little that is interesting, and the water nearer at 
hand is only an inlet of the sea. 

Cape Elizabeth is the high land on the south side of 
the harbour ; and the islands, which nearly close its 
entrance, are called Bangs's and House Islands. Fort 
Preble stands on the former, and Fort Scammel, only a 
block house, on the latter. It is proposed by the United 
States to expend $165,000 in enlarging these defences. 
Due east is Seguin Light House, which is visible in 
clear weather, 32 miles distant, at the mouth of the 
Kennebec. Nearer, and in the same quarter, lie nume- 
rous islands of various forms and divided by little chan- 
nels and bays, some of which are deep. They are gene- 
rally covered with trees and rocks, but present a beautiful 
variety to the view in that direction. Their number is 
not known, but is usually estimated at 365, to correspond 
with that of the days in the year. 

Tlie entrenchments on the hill, west of the Observa- 
tory, belong to Fort Sumner, and part of them were 
made m the Revolutionary war. Under the bluff, on 
the water'^s edge, is Fort Burroughs. 

Falmouth, (the I'ormer name of Portland,) was burnt 
in the Revolutionary war by Capt. Mowatt, in the Bi'itish 
sloop of War Canceau, on the 18th of October, 1775, 
on the refusal of the mhabitants to deliver up their arms. 
About 130 houses, three-quarters of all the place con- 
tained, were consumed, some being set on fire with 
brands, after a cannonade and bombardment of 9 hours. 
The old church is among the buildings saved, and lia>^ 



346 ROUTE IS MMKE. 

the mark of a cannon shot in it. A small part of Mitch- 
cirs hotel belonged to one of the houses not destroyed. 

There are some fine stores and dwelling- houses in the 
middle of the town, and the shore is lined with wharves 
and shipping : for the place is beginning to prosper 
again, although it has lost an extensive trade which it 
cannot recover. There is a small Museum in the place. 
In 1827 there were 10 primary schools here, contaming 
1095 pupils. 4 of the schools were on the monitorial plan. 

Remarks to the Traveller at Portland. The 
Boston Mail Coach leaves here every morning at 4, and 
reaches Boston at 9 P. M., the Accommodation at 8, and 
arrives next day, stopping for the night at Portsmouth. 

The communication with Dover, Concord, &,c. is 
easy, and the traveller going in that direction, is referred 
to the index for those and other places in his way. He 
may take the route to the White Hills by Fryeburgh ; 
the road leads through a wild and thinly populated 
country, but is noi devoid of interest. The stage coach 
reaches Conway in a day by this route, passing through 
Gorham, Standish, Baldwin, Hiram, and Fryeburgh. 

The eastern and north-eastern routes only, remain to 
be spoken of. The road along the sea coast is more un- 
interesting, passing over a rocky soil, and is recommended 
in going from Portland. The upper road leads through 
a considerable extent of fertile country, indeed the gar- 
den of Maine, and siiows several pleasant and flourishing 
villages, by v»^hich it may be more agreeable to return. 
The settlement of a great part of that region, still, is so 
recent, that the traveller will not find so good accommo- 
dations, nor so xiiany objects of interest, as in many 
other parts of the U. States. The inhabitants, however, 
are increasing very rapidly, and great improvements of 
every kind are annually introduced, which produce a 
scene of great activity and prosperity, particularly be- 
tween the Kennebeck and Penobscot Rivers. 

Remarks on the Country North-East from 
Portland. 

In consequence of the position, the climate, and soil of 



REMARKS OX TRAVELLING IN MAINE. 347 

JNIaine, the improvement of the country has been much 
retarded. Settlements were made on the coast as early 
as 1607, and several others not long afterwards ; but 
they suffered severely in the Indian wars, and their vi- 
cinity to the French missions, which embraced all the 
eastern part of the present state, exposed them to immi- 
nent danger. In later times the population was princi- 
pally confined to the sea coast, for the convenience of 
fishing and commerce, and thus the good land, which 
lies some distance back in the countiy, was almost en- 
tirely neglected. After the Revolutionary war, this ex- 
tensive region remained in the condition of a district 
belonging to Massachusetts. Within a few years it has 
been received into the Union as a separate state ; and 
agriculture having been introduced, the emigration from 
the neighbouring states has rapidly swelled its popu- 
lation. 

In travelling in Maine, the stranger observes the same 
order of things as in the interior of New-York, Ohio, and 
other parts of the country, which are fast improving. It 
is but a few years since agriculture was almost unknown 
here, and now the interior region between the Kennebec 
and Penobscot Rivers is well peopled, and presents a scene 
of rural cultivation and prosperity rarely equalled. That 
is of course the most attractive route for the ti-aveller ; 
and the road from Portland lies through Augusta and 
Hallov^^ell, Those who are going to New-Brunswick, 
&c, are advised to take this route, unless they prefer the 
fatiguing mode of travelling in the steam boat. 

Most persons going eastward from Portland, will wish 
to return ; and the brief tour which we shall give will 
be planned for their convenience and pleasure, by pro- 
ceeding first along the sea coast, and then returning 
through the fine tract of country in the interior. 

It may be proper here to mention, that two roads 
have been projected to Quebec ; one by the River Ken- 
nebec, and the other by the Penobscot. At present 
there are no roads through the northern wilderness, 
though a communication has been kept up that way for 
several years, and herds of cattle are occasionally driven 
Hh2 



34u r.OLTE IN MAINE, 

into Canada. The hardy and enterprising* traveller ma\ ■ 
perhaps, be willing to encounter the inconvenience of 
lodging in the open air, and such fare as the wilderness 
affords ; but few will attempt the route for pleasure, 
until the intended improvements shall have been made. 
For the distances of the principal places on the route 
from Portland to Quebec, see page 221. 

Canals fuojected in Maine. 

From Sebago Pond to Portland. This would re- 
quire an excavatioa of only 6 miles to effect a commu- 
nication betwee^i a chain of ponds or lakes, capable of 
furnishmg large supplies of timber, and many products 
of agriculture, if settlements were once encouraged. 

From the Androscoggin at Wayne's Mills, to the 
Kennebec at Gardner. There is a dead water naviga- 
tion to within five miles of the former, but then there is 
an ascentof 2G0 feet to the level of its current. 

Route from Portland to Belfast, Castine, 
Bangor, &c. 

Travelling round to the head of Casco Bay, you pass 
through North Yarmouth and Freeport, and arrive at 
Brunswicli, 26 miles. This is th j site of Bowdoin Col- 
lege, the principal institution of the state. It was burnt 
two or three years ago, and contained, in 1825, 120 stu- 
dents. 

There is a fall on the Androscoggin river at this place ; 
below which booms are extended acroas to keep toge- 
ther the lumber which is brouglit down every season in 
great quantities. 

The whole road from Portland to Bath, 34 miles, lies 
along the coast, where the soil is rocky and poor. 

Bath 

if a town of considerable trade, situated on the Kennr- 



UOOTII BAY. 349 

bee, at the distance of 16 miles from the sea. Here are 
several public buildings, and among the rest, two banks, 
WooiiWiCH is opposite Bath. 

WlSCASSET, 

14 miles from Bath. This is one of the principal ports 
of the state, and has an excellent harbour, at the mouth 
of the Slieepscot River. 

Stage Coaches run north to Bangor, on the Penob- 
scot. They pass through Newcastle, Nobleborough, 
Waldoborough, Union, Appleton, Searsmont, and Bel- 
mont. There are two branch lines : one to Thomas- 
town through Warren; and another to Hamden, through 
Camden, Lincolnshire, Northport, Belfast, Swanvillc, 
and Frankfort. 

From Wiscasset to Damascotta is rough and rocky ; 
but the ride presents many interesting views, as the land- 
scape is contmually changing, and is often varied by the 
sight of Damascotta River, and several beautiful little 
lakes or ponds. 

Damascotta Bridge. Here is a considerable village, 
at the distance of 16 miles from the sea coast. 

Booth Bay 

lies off the road from Wiscasset to Damascotta. It has 
a commodious harbour, witii a number of islands in the 
vicinity ; and the neighbouring high ground affords a 
very fine and extensive view. The hill, on the eastern 
side of the bay, was surveyed for a city in the early part 
of the last century, which was to have borne the name 
of Townsend, but the building of it was never begun. 
The harbour has been considered a good site for a naval 
depot. 

ANTiauiTiEs. Tw^o or three miles off the road, be- 
tween Linniken's Bay and Damascotta River, where was 
formerly an Indian carrying place, the remains of cellar 
walls and chimne)^ are found, as also broken kettles, 
wedges, &c. At the head of the bay are the hulks of 



,}oO IIOUTB IN MAINE. 

two or three large vessels sunk in the water ; and on the 
shore, the ruins of an old grist mill, where the present 
one stands. On the islands opposite the town, are oth- 
er ruins, the history of which is unknown, as well as that 
of those already mentioned. The only fact which seems 
to atlord any clew to their origin, is, that Sir John Pop- 
ham made an attempt to build a town at the mouth of 
the Kennebec, in the year 1607. 

Waldoborough, 10 miles. 

Warren, 7 miles. 

Thomastown, 

Central Village, 6 miles. Here are quarries of mar- 
ble and lime stone, from the latter of which about 100,000 
barrels of lime are made every year for exportation. 
The marble is also wrought in considerable quantities, 
A visit to the work shops may be interesting, as the ope- 
ration of polishing is performed by machinery moved by 
water. There is a cotton manufactory on Mill River, 
The village is 15 miles from the sea. 

The State Prison stands in a commanding and plea- 
sant situation. It has 50 sohtary cells, built of granite, 
in blocks from 4 to 6 feet in length, and 2 in thickness. 
Kach cell has an opening at the top, with small holes in 
the walls for the admission of fresh air, which, during 
the winter season, is warmed before it is admitted. The 
Warden's house is also built of granite, and is two stories 
high, placed in the middle, with a row of cells on each 
side. The prison yard is surrounded by a circular wooden 
paling, and encloses nearly three acres, in which is a lime 
quarry. Several workshops on the ground serve the pur- 
poses of the convicts, who are employed in burning lime 
and other manufactures. 

The Knox Estate. About half a mile from the 
State Prison is the ancient residence of the late General 
Knox. The mansion was three stories high, large, and 
elegant, particularly for a country so little cultivated 



EASXrORT. ooL 

and inhabited as this at the time of its erection. It is 
now in a state of great decay ; but some of the remain- 
ing decorations of the grounds may give an idea of its 
original appearance. The approach to ths house is 
through a cypress grove ; and in front of it extends a 
handsome grass plat. General Knox was one of Wash- 
ington's principal officers, and acted a conspicuous part 
in the Revolutionary war and in the government. 

From Thomastown to Belfast, (30 miles,) the road 
is hard, and commands many views of Penobscot Bay, 
with a few islands on the right, and a partially cultivated 
country on the left, with some mountainous scenes. 
Belfast is a flourishing port, pleasantly situated on the 
side of a hill. The road hence to Castine, round the 
bay, is 35 miles, passing through Prospect, Buckport, 
Orland and Penobscot. 

Castine was taken during the late war by a fleet, 
and the British entrenchments are to be seen on the 
hill above. 

Eastport is important as the frontier post of the 
United States on the sea coast towards the British pos- 
sessions. It is on the south-eastern part of Moose Island, 
in Passamaquoddy Bay, and connected with the main- 
land by a bridge. The spot was almost uninhabited 30 
years ago ; but now it contains three places of worship. 
There are fortifications and a few troops. A line of 
steam boats is established between this place and Boston, 
touching at Portland, &:c. 

Lubec is situated near the entrance of the Bay, oppo- 
site Campobello. 

Perri/, the village of the Passamaquoddy Indians, lies 
northward from Eastport. 

On the Schoodic River the land is high, and the scenes 
striking. Robbinston stands at its mouth ; and Calais 
12 miles above, at the head of navigation. The coun- 
try north and west of this place is said to be very valua- 
ble for grazing, being undulating, with a good soil and 
climate, and at present well wooded, with conveniences 
for transportation by sea. 



352 ROUTE IN MAINE. 

The road from Belfast to Bangor lies along the 
course of the Penobscot River. 

Bangor 

is a very flourishing village, newly risen into impor- 
tance, in consequence of having taken a good deal of the 
interior trade from Belfast. It occupies a commanding 
position for this object, and is undoubtedly destined to 
experience a great and rapid increase, proportioned to 
the extension of settlements in the upper country. The 
number of inhabitants increased between 1820 and 1825, 
from 1221 to 2002. The scenery here begins to assume 
much of that mountainous character, which prevails so 
extensively through a large part of the interior. A very 
conspicuous and noble eminence is observed at a distance 
in the north, called Ktordin Mcmtain,, the elevation of 
which has never, it is believed, boen accurately ascertained. 
It is considered the highest land in the state, and has 
been compared for altitude with Mount Washington in 
New-Hampshire : whether with justice or not, a scien- 
tific measurement will determine. 

In the year 1825, the land agents visited a tract of 
country inhabited by about two thousand persons, who 
had been before unknown as belonging to the state, hav- 
ing never been represented in the legislature, or includ- 
ed in any census. They are partly descendants of refu- 
gees, and partly half-pay oiKcers, Irish and Scotch. The 
vast tract of wilderness intervening between them and 
the lower country had prevented intercourse. Their 
country is rich and beautiful, on the St. John's River, 
near the boundary ofN. Brunswick ; and many of them 
desired to be received into the jurisdiction of the State 
Government. The question has already caused much 
excitement. 

The opening of a road along the course of the Penob- 
scot to Quebec, by the way of St. John's, the survey of 
which has been authorized, for which the state have ap- 
propriated $'5000, on condition that Massachusetts will 
do as much, cannot fail to accelerate the settlement of 
this country, and to increase the value and the products 



I'EGIl'SCOT FALLS. 353 

of the soil. It will also prove hereafter a very conve- 
nient route for travellers going to and from Canada, 
and doubtless form a part of the grand northern tour, 
which will then be complete. Steam boats will proba- 
bly be placed on the route from Boston to the Kenne- 
bec. 

From Bangor we begin our return to Portland, taking 
the route through the tinest part of the state of Maine. 
The road to Augusta and Hallowell on the Kennebec, 
lies through a region rapidly improving under the man- 
agement of an active, industrious, and increasing popu- 
lation. The value of the soil has greatly advanced 
within a short time, and it is the grand centre of emi- 
gration. There is another road to Hallowell through 
Bath. Coaches travel each way three times a week. 

Augusta is a considerable town and ver}^ flourishing. 
It is situated at the falls of the Kennebec, where the 
water on the descent of tlie cliannel is sufficient to 
set in motion several hundred wlieels, and will probably 
be hereafter extensively employed for manuiacturing 
purposes. 

At the mouth of this river, at Georgetown, beryls 
have been found, in a ridge of granite country. Some 
are 15 inches long and 6 thick. They are associated 
with schorl. 

Pegipscot Falls. Near Lewistown, on the Andros- 
coggin River, is a remarkable cataract, where the cur- 
rent breaks through a range of mountains, and pours 
over a broken ledge of rocks. The scene is wild and 
striking and derives an additional interest, from its 
connexion with tlie history of a tribe of Indians long 
since extinct. 

According to a tradition current in the neighbourhood, 
the upper parts of this stream were formerly the resi- 
dence of the Rockmego Indians, who inhabited a fine 
and fertile plain through which the river winds. The 
situation was reinote, and they had never engaged in 
any hostilities with tlie whites, but devoted themselves 
to hunting and fisiiing. The ground still contains many 
remains of their weapons, utensils, &c. They were, 



354 ROUTE IN MAINE. 

however, at length persuaded to engage in a hostile in« 
cursion against Brunswick, at that time an exposed 
frontier settlement ; and the whole tribe embarked in 
their canoes to accomplish the enterprise. The stream 
flows gently on for a great distance, until it approaches 
very near to the falls ; and ihis was the spot appointed 
for the night encampment. Night set in before their ar- 
rival ; and they sent two men forward to make fires up- 
on the banks a little above the cataract. For some un- 
known reason the fires were kindled below the falls ; 
and the Indians being thus deceived concerning their 
situation, did not bring up their canoes to the shore in 
season, and were carried over the rocks, and the tribe all 
destroyed together. Their bodies, it is said, were carri- 
ed by the stream down to the village they had intended 
to attack. 

The hills near the falls afford many evidences of hav- 
ing been the residence of Indians, wlio were cut off by 
the whites, in a sudden attack, many years ago. 



CITY OF WASHINGTON. 355 



WASHINGTON, 



The seat of Government of the United States, is situ- 
ated between the Potomac River and its eastern branch, 
about a mile and a half above their junction. It is di- 
vided into three distinct parts, which are built about the 
Navy Yard, the Capitol Hill, and the Pennsylvania Ave- 
nue. The Capitol is an immense building with two 
wings, surrounded by an open piece of ground, terraced 
in front, and occupying an elevation, which renders it a 
conspicuous object for several miles. 

The original plan of the city was very extensive : the 
principal streets meeting from all points of the compass 
at the Capitol, and bearing the names of the older states 
of the union. Some of the minor streets are known by 
the names of the letters of the Alphabet ; and tracts of 
ground were reserved for public squares. As Washing- 
ton, however, is chiefly dependant on the government 
for its support, the original scheme has been but faintly 
realized, and many of the streets have not even been 
opened. 

During the sessions of Congress, the place is thronged 
with strangers from all parts of the country ; and the 
sessions of the Senate and Representatives, the proceed- 
ings of the Supreme Court, the Levees at the President's 
House, the parties at the foreign ministers', &c. afford 
ample opportunities for amusements of various kinds. 
At other seasons, however, there is little to interest the 
stranger except the public buildings and the Navy Yard. 

The Capitol 

presents specimens of various styles of architecture. On 
entering the south wing several columns are seen, where 
carvings of Indian-corn stalks are substituted for flutings 
and filletings ; while the capitals are made of the ears 
of corn half stripped, and disposed so as in some degree 
to resemble the Corinthian or Composite order. 

The Representatives' Chamber is a fine semi-circu- 



356 CITY OF WASHINGTON. 

lar apartment, with columns of a dark bluish siliceous 
pudding stone, hard and highly polished. It is lighted 
from above. The gallery is open during the debates, as 
well as the Senate Chamber, which is a much smaller 
apartment. 

The Library of Congress is in another part of the 
building ; and the Great Hall contains the four national 
pictures, painted for the government by Col. Trumbull : 
the Declaration of Independence, the Surrenders at Sara- 
toga and Yorktown, and Washington resigning his Com- 
mission ; each 12 feet by 18. 

A fine view is enjoyed from the top of the Capitol. You 
look along the Pennsylvania Avenue westward to the 
President's House, with Georgetown and the Potomac 
beyond ; the General Post Office, &;c. on the right ; the 
Navy Yard towards the south-east ; Greenleaf's Point 
nearly south ; and south-west the bridge over the Poto- 
mac, with the road to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. 
The canal begins south of the President's House, and 
terminates at the East Branch. 

The President's House is a large building of white 
marble, with Grecian fronts, about a mile west of the 
Capitol, and near the public offices. It is surrounded by 
a wall, but without any other defence. The entrance 
hall leads into the drawing room, where the President's 
lady receives visiters at her levees. Two other apart- 
ments are thrown open on those occasions ; all hand- 
somely furnished, and freely accessible, even to stran- 
gers. 

The Patent Office is in the same building with the 
General Post Office, and well worthy of a visit, on ac- 
count of the numerous curious models which it contains, 
relating to all branches of the arts. 

The Treasury, Navy, War, and Land Offices, are all 
in the vicinity of the President's House ; as are the 
residences of the Foreign Ministers. The members of 
Congress, as well as the numerous strangers who resort 
hither during the sessions, find lodgings in the hotels and 
boarding houses in different parts of the city, or in 
Georgetown. 



MOUNT VERNO-V, 357 

GEORGETOWN 

is a considerable place, which, by its proximity to Wash- 
ington, seems almost a part of that city. The country 
around it is variegated, and the situation of the Catho- 
lic College, a little way west, is picturesque. Still fur- 
ther in the same direction, there is a very pleasant ride 
along the bank of the Potomac, where Mason's Island 
is at first seen, near the mouth of the river, and after- 
wards the Nunnery upon the elevated banks. On the 
north side of the road is a Cannon Foundry. 



ALEXANDRIA. 



This is a large city and port, six miles from Washing- 
ton, and contains some fine buildings, both public and 
private. The road which leads to it is good, in the plea- 
sant season, although the country is little inhabited, and 
the soil is impoverished by the cultivation of tobacco. 
This city is included within the boundary of the District 
of Columbia, and is at so short a distance from Wash- 
ington as to be a favourite resort, during the sessions of 
Congress. 



MOUNT VERNON, 



the estate of the Washington family, is nine miles 
south from Alexandria, and is remarkable as containing 
the residence and the tomb of Gen. Washington. The 
road is somewhat intricate, and has but few inhabitants, 
so that the stranger, unless he goes in a steam boat, will 
need to make careful inquiries. The entrance of the 
grounds is distinguished by a large gate, with the lodge 
and dwelling of the porter. A winding path conducts 
to the mansion, which is seen but two or three times 
from a distance. The rear of the house is first seen, as 
it stands on an eminence, looking down upon the Poto- 



1353 MOUNT VERXON. 

mac. The buildings which project from each end, are 
the offices and habitations of the negroes. The house 
is now the residence of Bushrod Washington, a judge 
of the supreme court of the U. S. and nephew of Gen. 
Washington. 

The key of the Bastile of Paris is hung up in the hall ; 
and a miniature portrait of Washington, from an earthen 
pitcher, is preserved, which is considered by the family 
the best likeness of him ever made. A beautiful lawn, 
partly shaded by trees, extends from the front of the 
mansion to the verge of the precipice, which overhangs 
the Potomac, and affords a delightful view upon the 
river, and a tract of hilly country above and below. 

This is the place to which Washington retired after he 
had accomplished the independence of his country, and 
again when he had presided at the consolidation of the 
government ; voluntarily resigning the stations he had 
consented to accept, and the power he had exercised only 
for the good of his country. To an American, this 
place is interesting, in a degree which no language can 
either heighten or describe. Whoever appreciates the 
value of private and social virtue, will rejoice to find it 
associated with the traits of a personage so distinguished 
and influential ; the consistent politician will rejoice to 
reflect that his principles of natural freedom were not 
restricted to any portion of the world, or any part of the 
human race ; while any one, who can duly estimate 
the extent of the blessings he has conferred on his coun- 
try, and the influence of his actions on the happiness 
of the world, will wish that his history may ever be 
cherished, as a model of sincere and disinterested pa- 
triotism. 

Washington's Tomb 

will be found under the shade of a little grove of cedars 
a short distance, southward, from the house, and near 
the brow of the precipitous shore. It is small, unadorn- 
ed, and neglected. The great man, who had rendered 
to his country the most important military and civil 



MOUNT VEKNOX. Jo^ 

services she ever received, left his mortal remains to be 
deposited in this humble cemetery ; and that country 
has never yet expressed its gratitude by erecting a monu- 
ment to his memory, though to her he devoted his life, 
and to her he has bequeated a character, on which no 
attempt has ever yet been made to discover a shadow or 
to fix a stain. 



360 CITY OF BALTIMORE. 



BALTIMORE. 



The Indian Queen Hotel. Barnum's City Hotel, an 
elegant building near the Washington Monument, was 
completed in 1827. It is the largest and one of the most 
commodious public houses in the country. 

Baltimore is the third city, for size, in the United 
States, and carries on an extensive commerce. Various 
projects have been made for improving the communi- 
cation with the interior, which is now limited. The 
course of the Susquehannah has been surveyed, with 
the intention of making it more useful in the transpor- 
tation of merchandise. The current is now so swift and 
broken in many places, as to render the passage often 
difficult and hazardous ; and it is hoped that great im- 
provements may hereafter be effected by locks and ca- 
nals. If this were once performed, and a cut made 
from the river to Baltimore, the city would doubtless 
derive great advantage from the internal trade. 

The harbour of Baltimore, in the Patapsco River, has 
a narrow entrance, and is well protected by high ground. 
On the side opposite the city is an abrupt elevation of 
considerable size, where is a fort, and whence a com- 
manding view is enjoyed. 

Fell's Point is a part of the city, about a mile be- 
low, where most of the stores and shipping are found. 
Many of the streets of Baltimore are broad, cross at 
right angles, and are ornamented with fine buildings 
both public and private. 

The Exchange is a very spacious brick building, 
erected within a few years. The Athenseum is a spa- 
cious structure. 

The Washington Monument. This is a large co- 
lumn of marble placed in a commanding position, at the 
head of Charles-street, rising to the height of 163 feet. 
It is 14 feet in diameter at the top and 20 below, with a 
base 23 feet in height, and 50 square. It is one of the 
finest monuments in the United States, and the only one 



BATTLE OF BALTIMORK. 3t»l 

worthy the memory of the great man to whom it is 
erected. 

The Battle Monument was recently erected, in mem- 
ory of those who fell in the defence of the city in Sep- 
tember, 1814. 

The Public Fountain is a fine spring of water in 
tlie western part of the city, surrounded by a public 
square, laid out in walks and shaded with trees. It is 
ornamented with a neat little building of hewn stone, 
and furnished with handsome steps. To preserve order 
at this place in warm weather, when it is usually much 
resorted to, it is the custom to take the right in descend- 
ing and retiring. 

The environs of Baltimore afford some pleasant rides ; 
and the communication with different places is easy, by 
various modes of conveyance. The most agreeable way 
of travelhng to Philadelphia, is by the steamboat lines, 
which go and arrive daily, with but a short distance of 
land carriage. Steamboats also go to Norfolk, in Vir- 
ginia, but the passage is uninteresting ; and those who 
wish to see Washington, (38 miles distant,) will go by 
land. 

Battle of Baltimore. This battle took place at Long 
Point in September, 1814. Nearly 40 sail of British 
vessels, comprising several ships of the line, arrived at 
the mouth of the Patapsco, and on the 12th landed 
between 7000 and 8000 men on Long Point, at the dis- 
tance of 14 miles from the city. 16 bomb vessels in the 
mean time went up the river, and anchored about 2^ 
miles from Fort McHenry. Gen. Smith had sent Gen. 
Strieker, with a part of his brigade, on the road to North 
Point ; and Maj. Randal, with some Baltimore and 
Pennsylvania volunteers, went to Bear Creek, to co- 
operate with him. Gen. Strieker took position at the 
two roads leading to North Point, his right on Bear 
Creek and his left on a marsh. An advance met the 
enemy, and after a skirmish returned, when they ad- 
vanced and joined in a general battle. After an hour 
and twenty minutes the 5 1st regt. gave way, and Gen. 
Strieker retired to his reserve, whither the enemy did 



;/,t)i CITY or EALTIMOKE. 

not follow, and then to the left of Gen. Smith, and took 
post half a mile in advance of his entrenchme)its. He 
lost about 150 killed and wounded in this action, in 
which the citizens of Baltimore distinguished themselves. 
The British loss was computed at 600 or 700 ; and 
among them their commander, Gen. Ross. 

The bomb vessels which attacked Fort McHenry were 
unsuccessful, being met with a manly resistance ; and 
the troops re-embarked and relinquished the enterprise. 

Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road. — A company was in- 
corporated a few months since, to make a rail road from 
this city to the Ohio, stimulated by the spirit of enter- 
prise so extensive in this country, and encouraged to un- 
dertake so vast and expensive a plan for the improve- 
ment of interior communication by the success of the 
Grand New-York Canal, and the flattering prospects of 
other minor works in different places. 

The survey of the route was made in 1827, by a part 
of the corps of United States Engineers, which, it may 
be superfluous to remark, have been employed by de- 
tachments in such duties for a few years past, to the 
great benefit of the country and credit of the govern- 
ment. The great work may be more particularly spoken 
of in a future edition. 

^ Rail Road from Baltimore to York Haven, on the 
Susquehannah,has been surveyed, and favourably report- 
ed on to the Legislature of Maryland. The distance is 
fiO miles ; and the estimate for the railway is |7,500 per 
mile. The additional expenses for making the bed, the 
sinuosities, &;c. would be considerable : but it is believed 
tliat $'300,000 would be sufficient for the whole work. 

The greatest elevation between Baltimore and Cone- 
wago is 35 miles from the former ; and being between 900 
and 1000 feet above tide water, gives an average rise of 
about 27 feet to a mile ; and the descent thence to Cone- 
wago corresponds. It has been proposed to place 12 
loco-motive steam engines along this route 3 miles apart. 

The Susquehannah above York Haven has a fall of 
about 10 feet in a mile, and the banks are vervfavoura- 



WILMINGTON. 3t>3 

ble to a railway, wliich might be extended with con- 
venience to Buffalo on Lake Erie. A railway to the 
Susquehannah which could transport to Baltimore for 3 
cents a ton per mile, it is said would take all the business 
of the river. 

It was supposed that nearly 5^ millions worth of 
property went down this river in 1826, in spite of the 
difficulties and dangers of the navigation. It is not to 
be wondered at that the inhabitants of Philadelphia and 
Baltimore should feel great solicitude to secure the 
trade. The sloop canal connecting this river with the 
Delaware is intended for the benefit of the former, as is 
the Union canal at Middletown, leading from the mouth 
of the Pennsylvania canal to the Schuylkill river. The 
Susquehannah has been greatly improved by various 
works in different parts of its course. The state of Dela- 
ware have rendered the navigation below Columbia 
comparatively convenient, so that wheat has been, for 
six or seven years, on an average, with 12^ or 15 cents a 
bushel of the price in Baltimore. Formerly it was 50 
cents. In 1827, 1 100,000 was supposed sufficient to make 
a safe navigation from the Swatara to Port Deposit. 
In 1828, however, the Legislature of Pennsylvania for- 
bade further improvements in that state. 

[Wilmington^ Del. The Water Works are supplied 
from the Brandy wine, by a steam engine and double 
forcing pump, on the principle of that at Fairmount, 
Philadelphia. The water wheel is an overshot, 14 feet 
6 inches in diameter ; and the water that turns it is 
pumped up. The ascent from the river to the upper 
basin is 99 feet ; and both the basins together hold a 
million of gallons. 

The old Swedish church, built in 1698, by the early 
inhabitants of this place, is still to be seen, surrounded 
by large sycamores. It stands near the Christiana 
Creek, nearly opposite the site of the first place of wor- 
ship erected here by the Swedes. That spot is now 
marked only by a few tomb stones. This town was set- 
tled by the companions of William Ll'seling, in 1631.] 



364 ROUTE TO OHIO, 

OHIO. 

Although so far removed from the territory here- 
tofore regarded as within the jurisdiction of the North- 
ern Traveller, this new and flourishing state has re- 
cently taken so high a rank in importance, enterprise, 
and numbers, that it will be visited by travellers of in- 
telligence, disposed to witness the aspect of a country 
which has been the theatre of a most rapid improve- 
ment. To such a few brief remarks will not be entire- 
ly superfluous. 

The following may be recommended as a general tour. 

First proceed to Wheeling ; down the Ohio river 
to Cincinnati ; across the country to Sandusky Bay by 
the western route in good stage coaches ; thence by 
steam boat to Detroit, and if desired onward to the 
western lakes. — Returning, by steam, land at Cleave- 
land, and make an excursion on the canal, (which, al- 
though about 350 miles long, is not very interesting.) 
Then take steam boat to Buffalo, whence the traveller 
may take what route he prefers. 

The mail, in summer, goes from New-York to Ohio by 
Philadelphia, in ten days, and by Buffalo and Lake Erie 
in five and a half. 

Only a few of the principal places on the tour will be 
noticed. 

Piitsbzirgh. This is more like a manufacturing town 
in England, tha.n any other in the United States. It 
would surpass our limits to enumerate all the manufac- 
tories here. We can only remark that the greatest iron 
works in the western country axe the Juniata Works in 
Pittsburgh. They give euiployment to 55 persons, and 
make 26,000 weight of nails in a day, consuming 425 
bushels of coal. Works have been commenced for sup- 
plying the city with water, which will pass through a 
tunnel through Grant's Hill. 

There is a turnpike to Erie, distance 125 miles, with 
a daily line of stage coaches. 

Zanesvi/le will probably become great as a manufac- 



CINCINNATI. obo 

turing town ; being situated in a region well supplied 
with iron and coal mines, and streams of water. 

The appearance of the country along the Ohio at 
Wheeling, is remarkably beautiful ; and the country has 
thence derived the name of Belmont. The land is un- 
dulating, and rises gradually for a distance back, af- 
fording many fine retrospects to a traveller in that di- 
rection, over a well cultivated region. Considerable 
quantities of tobacco are now raised here, which will 
be increased when the means of transportation are im- 
proved by the rail road. It is said that four dollars 
per cwt. will pay the cultivator. 

The Ohio canal will probably be navigable in 1830. 
187 miles from the lake, in one line, may be expected to 
be navigable in the spring of 1829. From the Portage 
summit to Cleaveland is a descent of 400 feet. 

In 1827 the Portage summit was opened to navigation 
as far as Cleaveland. This summit is the highest point 
on the canal, being nearly 400 feet above it. The ele- 
vation is surmounted by 42 locks. It is 38 miles from 
the lake. 

The whole Miami canal was opened early in the year 
1828, with flattering prospects of success and public ad- 
vantage. 

Cincinnati. This place is remarkable for the rapidity 
of its growth. In 1800 it contained a little above 2000, 
in 1810, 4000 ; and in 1826 above 16,000. There are 
16 places of public worship ; a Commercial Hospital, 
Lunatic Asylum, Medical College and the Western Mu- 
j:eum. There are 9 printing offices which publish 9 
newspapers. Here is published the " Western Quar- 
terly Review'" Heretofore the business has been done 
principally with New-Orleans : but the length and diffi- 
culties of the voyage, and the exposure to disease ope- 
rate as great objections to it. 



366" CITY OF PHILADELPHIA, 



THE CITY OF PHILADELPHIA. 

Hotels. United States Hotel, in Chesnut-street, op- 
posite the United States Bank. Mansion House, in South 
3d street, between Wahiut and Spruce. Judd's, 2d, be- 
tween Market and Chesnut. 

Boarding Houses, Mrs. Frazier's, in Spruce-street ; 
Mrs. Swords, Wahiut ; Mrs. Allen, 6lh, near the State 
House. 

Philadelphia is the second city, for size, in the United 
States; and is remarkable for the regularity of its streets, 
which, almost without exception, run at right angles, and 
are of an equal and convenient breadth. Some of the 
public buildings are worthy of particular notice, as among 
the finest and most correct specimens of architecture in 
the country. 

It will be convenient to the stranger to recollect that 
the streets running north and south are named First, 
Second, Third, &c. beginning on both sides of the city on 
the banks of the Delaware and Schuylkill, until they 
meet at the square near tlio centre. The streets which 
run east and west, are generally named after trees ; the 
lanes and alleys, after shrubs, &:c. 

The Market. This consists of a succession of build- 
ings in the middle of Market-street, extending from the 
fish market on the river's bank to Eighth-street, afford- 
ing room for a convenient display of the numerous arti- 
cles daily brought infer the supply of the city. 

Post Office, Chesnut-street, between Third and 
Fourth. 

The Bank of the United States, in Chesnut-street, 
between Fourth and Fifth. This is the finest specimei' 
of pure Grecian taste in the United States. It is built 
of white marble in the form of a temple, with two fronts, 
each ornamented with eight line Doric columns, of the 
ancient proportions without bases. Beside the banking 
room, which is large, occupying the centre, and lighted 
through a glassdome, there are many other apartments, 
particularly those devoted to the printing of the notes-. 



MR. SULLV'S GALLERY. 367 

and that below, which contains the furnace for warming- 
it with Lehigh coal in the winter. 

Gerard's Bank, in Third, facing Dock-street. This 
building is also of marble, and presents a beautiful row 
of six Corinthian columns. 

The Bank of Pennsylvania, opposite, has two fronts, 
on Second and Dock-streets, each with six Ionic columns. 
This IS another chaste and beautiful building of white 
marble. 

The State House, in Chesnut-street, between Fifth 
and Sixth-streets, is a large brick building, with court 
rooms, &c. at either end. In the front room, east of 
the main entrance, the old Continental Congress held 
their sessions ; and there the Declaration of Independ- 
ence was signed, July 4th, 1776. 

The Athen^'Eum is adjoining, open all day to strangers. 

The Philosophical Society's Library and Cabi- 
net. 

Independence Square is a fine shaded piece of 
ground, behind the State House. Opposite to it, in 
Walnut-sireet, is the State Prison^ built of dark stone, 
and connected with a yard enclosed by high walls. 

City Library, Fifih-street, open to the public from 
2, P. M. See Franklin's apparatus, and Cromwell's 
clock. 

The University contains a medical department and 
the Wistar Museum, with a library, garden, &c. 

The Arcade, in Chesnut-street, is a fine building of 
stone, with two arched passages leading to Lafayette- 
street. It is occupied for shops, and has galleries in the 
upper story. The Pluiadelphia Museum of Mr. Peale 
in the northern part. It contains a large collection of 
curiosities of various descriptions. The birds are very 
numerous, but not well preserved. The huge skeleton 
of a mammoth will attract particular attention, being 
represented entire ; for the parts which were deficient on 
one side, have been supplied by imitations of those on 
the other. 

Mr. Sully's Exhibition of Paintings is opposite the 
State House, and contains fine pictures, 
ick 



oCw CVVY OF PIIILAl>KL?inA. 

Washington Square is on the otlier side of Sixth* 
street, witli a haiidsoine church on the southern side, 
with a range of wooden columns. 

Tiie Pennsylvama Hosi-ital is a large and admira- 
ble institution, in tlie next street, where great numbers 
of sick are attended. Twenty-five cents will secure ad- 
mission to the building and gardens, and al.so to the top. 

West's Celebrated Picture of Christ healing the 
sick, is exhibited in a neat little building on the opposite- 
side of the street. It represents the Saviour surrounded 
by a crowd of persons in the temple, among whom are 
observed many afflicted with various diseases, pressing 
forward to be healed. In front is a paralytic woman, 
borne by two men, whose healthy countenances form a 
striking contrast with her cadaverous aspect ; and the 
painter has given a reddish tint to her feet, which seem 
to have already felt the miraculous influence. A blind 
man appears behind, led by his sons ; and on the left 
hand is an infant supported by its mother, with a poor 
blind girl and otlier figures. Near the centre is a lunatic 
boy, rather too shocking a subject for such a picture ; 
and a number of Jewish Rabbis are collected, with coun- 
tenances expressive of violent passions. 

The apartment is adniirably calculated for the display 
of the picture, which is universally considered one of the 
finest and most interesting in the United States. 

The Theatre, in Chesnut-streel, between Sixth and 
Seventh-streets, has a marble front, with the e)itrance 
under a portico, ornamented with statues of Comedy 
and Tragedy. 

The Masonic Hall is a little bej^ond, and somewhat 
in the Gothic style, with a small court yard in front. 

Th-.- Academy of ARTS,Chesnut-street,between Tenth 
and Eleventh, contains a collection of statues, buf^ts, &c. 
in marble and plaster, ranged in an apartment lighted 
from the top ; and beyond, a gallery of pictures with 
many specimens of the works of American artists, par- 
ticularly of Alston, among which is conspicuous, that of 
the dead body restored to life by the boueti of the prophet 
Elislia. 



THE SCHCYLKILL KIYER. 309 

The Orphans' and the Widows' Asylums are in the 
western part of the city. 

Academy of Kat. Sciences. Perm's house, Letitia court. 
United States mint,*' &c, &c. 

There are two medical institutions in this city, where 
lectures are delivered to great numbers of students. 

The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is a valuable institu- 
tion ; as is the Friends'' Alms House in Walnut-street, 
between Third and Fourth, where poor families are 
placed in separate houses, among small gardens, and 
furnished with employment. 

Mr. Bedeirs (episcopal) church in Eighth-street, and 
Mr. Montgomery's, in Tenth, are considered the finest 
in the city. The latter is in a kind of Gothic style. 

The Banks of the Schuylkill are well formed for tlic 



* The report of the Director of the Mint, in 1827, states 

that the coinage effected within that year amounted to 

^3,024,342 32, consisting of 9,097,845 pieces of coin, viz. 

Of Gold, 27,713 pieces ; making ,'^131,565 00 

Sliver, 6,712,400 do. 2,889,200 00 

Copper, 2,357,732 do. 23,577 32 



9,097,845 ^-3,024,342 32 

Of t1ie Gold bullion deposited at tlie Mint within the last 
ye;ir, the proportion received from Mexico, South America, 
and the West Indies, may be stated at 76,000 dollars ; that 
from North Carolma at 21,000 dollars ; and that from Africa 
at 15,000 dollars ; leaving about 20,000 derived from sources 
not ascertained. The whole amount received from North 
■Carolina, to the present period, is nearly 110,000. This gold 
has generally been found to exceed iu fineness the standard 
of our gold coins. 

The whole couiage executed since the establishment of the 
Mint, amounts to 30,465,444 dollars, 14 1-2 cents, consisting 
uf 103,081,178 pieces of coin, viz. 

Of Gold, 1,538.1B1 pieces; making $8,255,8^^7 50 
Silver, 47,389,086 do. 21,695,899 90 

Copper, 54,153,931 do. 513,876 741-2 

103,081,178 :!0,465,444 14 1-2 



370 CITV OF PHILADELPHIA. 

display of the large public edifices which will be per- 
ceived ranged along their eminences for two or three 
miles, to the honour of Philadelphia and the ornament 
of its environs. 

Mr. P ratios Gctrrfe/i is about 3 miles north-west from the 
centre of the city, and worthy of a visit. It is a private 
garden, but tickets of admission may be easily obtained 
through respectable inhabitants. The situation is agree- 
able and commanding, on a little cape or promontory on 
the Schuylkill ; and from the gravelled walks the visiter 
enjoys a view down the river, of the basin, the dam, the 
Water Works, below which is the State Prison, House 
of Refuge, Hospital, the two bridges, and on the oppo- 
site side a handsome seat called " Woodlands." 

The Schuylkill Water Works. Pipes more than 
15 miles ; expense of raising, ,$4 a day. There is a large 
stone building of chaste architecture containing 5 large 
water wheels, which are capable of raising 7 millions of 
gallons in 24 hours. They are turned by a current from 
the dam above. The reservoirs are on the hill above, 
which is higher than any part of the city, which it sup- 
plies. They both contain 1 1 millions of gallons. The 
steam engine is no longer used. The keeper demands 
jifiothing for showing the works. 

Penitentiary. This is a large and singular construc- 
tion, and built on a plan dilferent from that which is at 
present most in vogue '^in this country. The prisoners 
are to be all kept in solitary confinement. 

The front of the prison is large and imposing, like the 
site of a fortress. The wall is 40 feet high, built of gra- 
nite, and encloses a square 650 feet on each side. The 
rooms of the guard, keepers, and servants, as well as the 
cooking and washing rooms, are in the front building ; 
while the cells are formed in seven long stone galleries, 
radiating from an octagon in the centre. The entran- 
ces to the cells are through little yards from the outside, 
and each has a wicket door in the gallery. A centinel 
in the octagon, by turning on his heel, can look through 
all the galleries ; and the arched roofs reverberate eve- 
ry sound, so that he can hear a very slight noise. 

This prison is built on a principle believed by many 



CHESAPEAKE \ST) DELAWARE CANAL. oil 

Vo be erroneous. Solitary confinement is a very unequal 
kind of punishment to different individuals, and very ex- 
pensive to the public. This is an extensive experiment 
on an old and exploded system. 

The J^aval Hospital is situated about 2 miles south- 
west from the centre of the city. The expense is de- 
frayed by funds contributed by the officers and seamen 
of the U. S. navy, out of their pay. The building" is on 
an eminence, commands an extensive view, and makes 
a fine appearance from a distance. The front is 386 
feet in length, r3 stories high, and will be large enough to 
lodge 300 or 400 persons. The first story is of granite, 
and the 2d and 3d of marble, both which kinds of stons 
are found in abundance in the vicinity of Pliiladelpliia. 
Several edifices are to be erected at othrr naval stations 
for the same objects, and supported by the same fund. 

TheJ^avy Yard^ (on the banks of the Delaware.) Here, 
as in most of the principal navy yards of the U. States, 
ships of war are built under the shelter of immense build- 
ings, which protect the workmen and the timber from 
exposure to the weather. Of the two buildings here, 
the larger one contains the line of battle ship Pennsyl- 
vania, said to be intended for the largest in the world. 
She is to carry 140 or 150 guns, and is building under the 
direction of Mr, Humphreys. The smaller house is for 
frigates. The " Franklin"" and '•'■ North Carolina" ships 
of the line, and the frigates United States and Guerriere 
were built at this place. 

The north side of the navy yard is devoted to brick 
buildings for the residence of officers, ship timber, &c. 
while at the south end are the workshops. The Marino 
Barracks are on the western side ; and the area of the 
yard, which is Availed with brick, is about 12 acres. 

The extensive meadows south of Philadelphia present 
a beautiful scene of fertility and cultivation. A ride in 
that direction at morning or evening is recommended. 

THE CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE CANAL. 

The sloamboat Essex plies between Philadelphia and 
Kk2 



:ii2 CHESAPEAKE AND DELAWARE CA^fAL. 

the head of the Canal at Delaware city, 5 miles below 
Newcastle. 

This is the most gifrantic work of the kind ever effect- 
ed in the United States, in regard to the dimensions of 
its parts, and the size of the vessels to which it is intend- 
ed to give a passage. The object of its construction 
was to divert a large portion of the trade of the Susque- 
hannali river into Delaware Bay, chiefly for the benefit 
of Philadelphia. It was opened to navigation in April, 
1828 ; and 2 packet boats having been established upon it, 
many travellers will be anxious to avail them.selves of an 
early opportunity to inspect a construction, on every 
account so well worthy of attention. 

It is intended for sloops of the largest class, and schoon- 
ers : the locks being 100 by 22 feet, and the cana! 60 feet 
wide at the water line. It was originally iritended to se- 
cure a depth of only 8 feet : but it has since been in- 
creased to 10 feet. 

The principal objects upon the line which will interest 
a stranger, are the harbour on the Delaware, the adjom- 
ing embankment on St, George's Marsh, the Deep Cut 
and the Summit Bridge. 

The Harbour on t/ie Delaware is at Delaware City. 
It is formed by two piers running into the water : one 500 
feet long, and the other 600, with a return pier of 100 
feet. Boats enter the first lock a little distance from this. 

Swivel Bridge. The first of three swivel bridges is 
passed three quarters of a mile from the Delaware. 

St. George's Marsh. This is a low flat tract of land, 
over which the tide ebbed and flowed until a great em- 
bankment was raised which serves as a towing path, and 
excludes the water. The soil was so soft and light, that 
earth was brought from a distance to form the bank ; 
which gradually sunic so far that it is supposed to have 
displaced, in some parts, a quantity equal to a column 
of 40 feet. At St. George's is another lock, of the 
usual dimensions, and a swivel bridge. At the end of 3 
miles the Cranberry Marshes are also passed ; and 3 
miles further is 

Tji€ old Mill Pond, which serves as a part of the canal. 



THE PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. 373 . 

Tke Deep Cut is a section five miles long, where the 
height of tlie banks varies from 8 to 70 feet. Over the 
middle of it is extended the Summit bridge : a most im- 
posing construction, reaching from hill to hill, with a 
single arch of 235 feet span, at the deepest part of this 
immense trench, and bearing its key at the elevation of 
90 feet above the bottom of the canal. Schooners and 
the largest sloops may pass beneath with their masts 
standing ; and the view embraced by the eye from above 
or below is grand, impressive, and almost terrific. 

The Western Lift Lock is a few miles further west ; 
and beyond this a Basin, 400 by 100 feet. 

The Debuuche Lock opens at the end of the Bason into 
the Susquehannah. 

The principal reservoir on the line is a pond of 100 
acres, 10 feet in depth. 

[The Pennsylvania Canal. 

Under this general name is comprehended a great and 
extensive system of internal improvements, for several 
years designed by the Legislature of this state. Nume- 
rous plans for canals and railways have been proposed 
and considered, surveys have been made of the principal 
routes supposed to be capable of improvement for the 
benefit of the public, and considerable progress has been 
made in some places in works to connect the waters of 
the Ohio and Susquehannah. It will be some time be- 
fore the works authorized will be so far completed as to 
attract many travellers from the established routes ; but 
such information as they may hereafter desire, may be 
looked for in subsequent editions of this little book. The 
remarks this year will with reason be limited to a few. 

The following is a general outline of the great plan of 
internal improvements, undertaken by the Pennsylvania 
Canal Commissioners, as expressed in their report to the 
Legislature. '^ From its commencement at Middletown 
it stretches to the Juniata — thence up that river to the 
foot of the Alleghany Mountains on the east, and cross- 
ing the ridge to connect the waters of the Susquehannah 



374 THE PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. 

with the Alleg'hany and Ohio river, ascending tlie main 
branch of the Susquehannah with the dividing point of 
the eastern and western branches, it contemplates an im- 
proved navigation to the sources of these great streams, 
as well as some of their tributary branches — presenting 
one connected chain of improved or canal navigation of 
not less than five hundred miles in extent." 

The eastern part of this work v/as completed in 1827 — 
from the Susquehannah at Middletown to Harrisburgh. 
A Basin is formed in the river at the mouth of the Swa- 
tara, opposite tiie basin of the Union Canal, with which 
it communicates by a lock of 2^ feet lift. It has also an 
outlet lock, and a lock opening into the Svvatara of 9 
feet lift. The canal lies prmcipally in an easy, alluvial 
soil from the Susquehannah to Harrisburgh, and passes 
over extensive tracts of level country. There are ten 
locks in that distance, beginning with the outlet lock at 
Middletown. They are all 17 feet by 90 in the cham- 
ber, and are 2.^, 7, 8 and 9 feet in the lift. On the first 
part of the canal, that is to Clark's Ferry, 23^ miles, 
the breadth at bottom is 30 feet, at top 40, and the depth 
4 ; while the remainder of the distance to Harrisburgh 
it is larger — 35 at bottom, 45 at top and 4^ deep, to sup- 
ply the machinery at the latter place. The canal passes 
on aqueducts over Paxton, Fislimg Stoney and Clark's 
creeks. There are basins at Harrisburgh and Clark's 
creeks.*] 

* The Juniata River is a stream of a remarkably romantic 
character, being enclosed by higli, rude and rocky eminences, 
which preseul, n constaot variety of scenery. Since its course 
has been selected as a part of the great canal route, it may 
be safely predicted that its see les are destined to administer 
to the enjoyment of many travellers. 

From the junction of the two branches the canal 
will run on the west side as far as Sunbury ; a dam be- 
ing constructed at .Shamokin Ripples, which will form an ex- 
tensive and conve iieiit harbour for boats, and afl'ord great 
water power for manufactories. The Legislature have au- 
thorized the opening of slack water navigation between the 
river and Shamokin Coal Mines. 



THE PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. 37o 

Route from PHILADELPHIA to NEW-YORK. 
(See page 391.) 



On the Frankstown branch of the Juniata river, 5 miles 
below Frankstown, is an intermitting spring, which often has 
a flux and reflux three or four times in an hour. 3 or 4 feet 
from it is another spring which flows regularly and constantly. 

The following is a list of the works authorized by the Le- 
gislature in 1828, in pursuance of the great system of in- 
ternal improvement comprehended in the Pennsylvania Canal. 

Canals and locks are to be contracted for, 1st, from North- 
umberland, to the Bald Eagle, on the west branch of the 
Susquehannah ; 2d, from Northumberland along the north 
branch to the New-York state line ; 3d, from Pittsburgh, by 
the Beaver route, to Erie on Lake Erie ; 4th, from Taylor's 
Ferry to Easton on the Delaware ; 5th, from Blairsville on 
the Conemaugh tothe highest practicable point. 

From 25 to 45 miles of each of these sections, and the 
whole of the French Creek Feeder, are to be contracted for 
this season. 

6th. There is to be located a road across the Alleghany 
mountains, to connect the Juniata and Coneraaugb sections, 
to be completed as early as those sections. 

7th. A rail road is to be located from Philadelphia through 
Lancaster to Columbus on the Susquehannah, 30 miles of 
which are to be contracted for this year. 

8th. Surveys and examinations are to be made for a canal 
along the Monongahela from Pittsburgh to Virginia. 

9th. Surveys and examinations from the Raystown branch 
of the Juniata to the Conemaugh, for a canal or railway. 

For the expense of these two millions of dollars were ap- 
propriated. 

(The banks of the Susquehannah are the most fertile in the 
south-eastern part of the state ; and the mountains abound 
in anthracite coal. The mineral wealth which the great 
public works will draw from its beds must be immense as 
well as various.) 



ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 



ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

In consequence of the opening of the vast beds of coal 
between the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers, at a dis- 
tance of about 80 or 100 miles north of Philadelphia, 
that tract of country has become an object of great in- 
terest ; and since the travelling has been recently im- 
proved by the construction of roads and canals, and the 
establishment of good inns, stage coaches, and canal 
boats, a jaunt in that direction is now a very common 
and fashionable one. 

The Union Canal., which runs from the Schuylkill at 
Reading to Middietown on the Susquehannah, will also 
attract travellers in this direction. Those who find it 
convenient, will be pleased to extend their journey west 
by the Pennsylvania CanaU from Middietown to Lan- 
caster. 

In the tract of country north from Philadelphia, are 
found inexhaustible quantities of coal, in elevated ridges 
and mountains of the Alleghany range, which are suppo- 
sed to be connected with those which are known on the 
western side of the range, although they are of differ- 
ent characteristics. The western coal is easily com- 
bustible, and resembles that imported from Liverpool, 
&c. while the former is hard, very difficult to kindle, and 
burns with very little Hame. It is, however, of great 
purity, being of that sort known to geologists by the 
name of Anthracite, and is now very extensively used 
for fuel in Philadelphia, New-York, and different parts 
of the country. It, however, requires a fire-place on 
the plan of a furnace, and a little experience in managing 
it. The varieties of this coal come down in a kind of 
rude square boats, called arks, drawing only 12 or 15 
inches of water, but containing about 250 bushels each, 
which may usually be seen on the shores of the Schuyl- 
kill, and at the docks m the Delaware. It is only a few- 
years since this coal was supposed to be entirely worth- 
less ; and now the demand is enormous. In 1827, 
30,305 tons of coal came from the Lehigh mines, 31,364 
fr^m Mount Carbon, and 1.239 from other places. 



ROAJJ.TO THE LEHIGH JMtNES. L>77 

The whole length of the line of navigation, under- 
taken by the Schuylkill company, is 108 miles ; and the 
work is considered the greatest ever performed in this 
country by private individuals. It commences at the 
Lancaster Schuylkill bridge, and ends at Mount Carbon. 
62 miles of it arc by canals, and 46 by pools in the 
river. Tlie number of houses for lock keepers, is 85, 
the number of locks below Reading, 39, (toll 6^ cents) 
and above Reading, 81, (toll 4 cents,) being in the whole 
120, of which 28 are guard locks ; overcoming a fall of 
588 feet. Toll on a ton 1 11 35i cents. In 1827, 1329 
boats were loaded at Mount Carbon for Philadelphia with 
coal : in all, 31,364 tons. 

The obstacles which the surface of the country pre- 
sents to works of such a nature in this state, are unusual- 
ly great, as may be supposed, when it is remarked, that 
eight ranges of mountains pass through Pennsylvania 
from north-east to south-west, and that the height of 
land is supposed to be 8 or 900 feet in the lowest place, 
so that the rivers descend very much in their courses. It 
has been necessary to make more lockage on the Schuj'l- 
kill line, than on the whole Erie Canal m New- York. 
Beside this, the country is of the transition formation, 
with sloping strata, which cause much leaking. 

In 1825, the expense had amounted to nearly 3 mil- 
lions ; and it was expected that another million would 
be rctjuired to coaipiete the navigation. The articles 
brought down, are coal, lumber, limestone, iron ore,witli 
flour, and many products of agriculture and manufac- 
ture. 

The amount of tolls collected in 1025, was only 
f 15,775 ; but the canal was open only a part of the 
season. In 1826, $43,108 ; 1827, $-50,149. 

Road to the Lehigh Coal Mines 
At Maitch Chunk. 

The stage coach starts for Easfoyi every Sunday, 
Tuesday, and Tiiursday ; and returns tho following 
days. It goes i'rom Field's, in Race-street, between 3d 
and 4th streets. It is recommended, however, to take 



3T8 ROUTES TO THE COAL MINES. 

one of the Union Line Steamboats, and go up the Dela- 
ware to Bristol, whence stage coaches go to Easton. 
Philadelphia to Rising Sun, 4 miles, 

Branchtown (Child's tavern,) 4 



Shoemakertown, 




8 


Jenkintown, 




10 


Abington, 




12 


Wiliowgrove, 




14 


Horsham, 




16 


Graham park. 




22 


Newville, 






Doyieston, 




26 


Danville, 




29 


Roderick's tavern, 






Tohicken bridge. 






Easton, (See page 


385.) 


5 


Mauch Chunk, (See page 


387.) 



Canal Route to the Schuylkill Coal Mines, 
At Mount Carbon, 

The canal boats start on the Schuylkill at regular 
hours, for which the traveller is referred to the news- 
papers. A carriage will be necessary, as the boats lie 
at the western extremity of the city. 

On this route a boat with one horse performs the 
work of 7 wagons and 28 horses. Merchandise goes 
from Philadelphia to Mount Carbon for ^5 a ton. 

Manayunk is a large manufacturing village, begun 
only about 1819 or 1820. The manufactories are furnish- 
ed with water by a canal 3 miles in length, through 
which the boat will pass. In 1825 there were six build- 
ings of this description, some of them 150 feet long, 
called the Flat Rock, Woodville, &;c. Manufactories. 
Keating and Co's is intended for 6000 spindles, with 
water looms for weaving. The building is 202 feet long 
and 45 wide. 

The water power is still sufficient for an immense num- 
ber. There is an oil, paper, and grist mill at this place ; 
and a considerable village formed of the dwellings of the 



THE UNION CANAL.. 379 

workmen, stores, dfec. This tract of country is very 
rich in water falls. [The county of Delaware, which is 
very small, contains about 130 manufactories of differ- 
ent descriptions, moved by water.] 

Passing- from the canal, the boat enters the Flat Rock 
Basin and the river. 

Plymouth Locks. Here is a canal about | of a mile 
long. A little below it is a large spring which supplies 
a mill. It yields such a surprismg stream of water, that 
it was once proposed to conduct it to Philadelphia for 
the use of the city. The marble quarries are also in this 
vicinity ; from which stone is sent to the same place. 

NoRRisTOWN contains some fine houses, as well as a 
court house, jail, and two churches, one in the Gothic 
style, which stands in a conspicuous situation. A cot- 
ton manufactory or two will be found here ; but the 
village is on the same side of the river as the canal. 

The Sluice. This is a place where the current of 
the river was very rapid, and required a dam — 4 miles 
from Norristown. Catfish Island Dam, 1 mile. 

Reading, 54 miles from Philadelphia, is a place of 
considerable importance,inhabitcd by Germans, and con- 
tains some handsome public buildings. The Uiiio?i Ca- 
nal begins near the town. 

[The Union Canal. 

After parting from the Schuylkill 2 miles below Read- 
ing, this Canal passes up the western shore of the river 
to the valley of the Tulpehocken ; and then follows 
that valley till within 5 miles of Lebanon, where begins 
the summit level. In all this distance it rises 31 1 feet, 
by numerous locks of 4 and 8 feet lift. The canal is 24 
feet wide at bottom, 4 deep and 36 on the surface. The 
Summit Level is ten miles and 78 chains in length. On 
this pari of the canal is the Tunnel ; an excavation bored 
through a hill for a distance of 729 feet, the face of the 
hill having been cut away at the entrance 25 feet. This 
dark and gloomy passage is 18 feet in breadth and 14 
feet high. 

The great water wiieel, at the mouth of Clark's 
l1 



380 ROUTE TO THE COAL MINEb, 

Creek, is 36 feet in diameter, and raises the water from 
the Swatara Feeder into the summit, near Lebanon. It 
works two forcing pumps 14^ inches in diauieter, and 
propels water through a raising main 850 feet long, 20 
in diameter, to a perpendicular height of 93 feet. The 
company have there also a steam engine of 100 horse 
power, though it is believed a head of water of three 
feet. The Union Canal was commenced in 1823 and 
finished in 1827 ; and, including the navigable Feeder, is 
above 80 miles in extent. The whole expense was about 
a million and a half. It is supposed that after the com- 
pletion of the Pennsylvania canal, 200,000 tons of goods 
&c. will pass through the Union canal in a year, at |'2 
a ton. The extension of it to the Swatara coal mines, 
including 4 or 5 miles of railway on that route, (in all 
18 miles.) will cost about 1 120,000, and add about 
50,000 tons annually. 

The increase of business on this route must of course 
soon be great, and the Union Canal is pronounced by 
the commissioners, with much propriety, '^ the hope of 
Philadelphia.'" The navigation opened favourably in 
1823, about the 20th of March, and many travellers will 
doubtless pass that way this season. 

The summit level lies on a limestone soil, which 
makes it necessary to plank the bottom and sides of the 
canal, to prevent the filtration of water. Narrow boats 
have been introduced on this canal, from a conviction of 
their being of easier draft. This work was commenced 
some years ago by David Rittenhouse, llo'>ert Morris and 
others, but given up. The locks are thought capable of 
passing a boat every 5 or 6 minutes ; and the canal, if the 
banks and locks were raised one foot, would be large 
enough for boats of 40 tons, and able to admit the pas- 
sage of nearly two millions of tons annually. The sum- 
mit level opens westwardly upon the valley of Clark's 
Creek. Hence the canal passes on to the Swarata river, 
which has two dams, and whose course it follows to 
Middletown on the Susquehannah. The descent to this 
river from the summit level is 192 feet 6 inches, sur- 
mounted by 37 locks. There are 12 aqueducts on the 



SCHUYLKILL WATER GAP. 381 

whole route, one of them 276 feet long", and another 165. 
There are 92 lift locks 75 feet wide and 872 long : most 
of them laid with water cement. The Boats most ap- 
proved for transportation on this canal are long, 8 feet 
3 inches wide. The tolls on the most coarse and bulky 
articles are half per cent, per mile. Coal, lime, marble, 
pig iron, &;c. pay three quarters per cent. ; flour, grain, 
salted provisions, potash, &c. a cent and a quarter ; 
boards, plank, &c. one cent per 1000 feet ; timber, one 
cent per solid foot. Salt, merchandise, &c. passing 
westward pay two cents a ton per mile. 

The toll on passage boats is twenty cents a mile ; and 
on loaded freight boats only two cents.] 

JVe return to the Schuylkill JVavigation. 

From Reading, the road passes for some distance near 
the river, and affords an opportunity to see the canals, 
dams, &:c. made to assist the navigation. It passes near 
■Duncan's Job^ a piece of deep cutting in a solid rock, 60 
feet down. This place is 5 or 6 miles from Reading. 

The road to Hamburgh from Reading, lies through 
the Great Limestone Valley of Pennsylvania ; which 
has the Kittatinny chain of mountains on the north, and 
the Blue Ridge on the south. The surface is beautifully 
varied by the natural undulations of the surface ; and 
the road affords a very fine succession of beautiful scenes, 
where the well-cultivated farms are usually backed by 
ranges of fine mountains. The inhabitants dwell in 
good, and often handsome houses, while their great stone 
barns speak good and thorough husbandry. 

The Mountain Dam, near Hamburgh, is 27 feet high. 

Hamburgh. 

This is a small village with nearly an hundred houses, 
with a church situated in a romantic position, at the 
entrance of the 

Schuylkill Water Gap. This is a narrow gorge, 
through which the river runs over a steep and rocky 
channel for 4 or 5 miles ; leaving no room upon its banks, 
which rise abruptly on each side to the height of several 



382 ROUTE TO THE COAL MINES. 

hundred feet. The road has been cut out along the 
face of one of these ranges, at a great elevation ; where 
the surface is in many places of such a declivity, as to 
require it to be supported by walls of stone. The views 
which are here afforded to the traveller, are romantic 
and varied in a high degree ; presenting the woody 
mountains in different directions, with the course of the 
Schuylkill winding through them. There is a spring 
which passes the road, remarkable only as the boundary 
between two contiguous counties. 

The Little Schuylkill River, a branch of the 
principal stream, runs through a valley of the same 
general description ; and here lies the road to Mount 
Carbon. The country will hardly admit of any cultiva- 
tion ; and few inhabitants are seen. 

Iron Works. The iron works of Mr, Old are situ- 
ated at the termination of this valley, on a small meadow, 
shut in by mountains : a wild and secluded scene. Th6 
proprietor has a handsome house ; and the shops and 
dwellings of the workmen are numerous. The scenery 
beyond retains its interesting character. 

The Tunnel. This is a place where a hill has been 
bored through 375 yards for a canal, about 3 miles from 
Orwigsburgh. 

Orwigsburgh, 

about 8 miles from the Gap. This village is 3 miles 
distant from the river, and enjoys an agreeable situation, 
although the soil is not very good. It is rather larger 
than Hamburgh, and contains a court house, jail, &;c. 
The German language here prevails, and is used in the 
fchurch as well as in the ordinary concerns of life. 

MOUNT CARBON, 

8 miles, is in sight of several coal mines. This is some- 
times called Fottsville, but there is a place on the 
Schuylkill known by the same name. It has been 
proposed to construct a rail road to the Susquehannali. 



MOUNT CARBO.V. 383 

The coal country in this region begins in Luzerne, on 
tlie upper part of the Lackavvana River, following its 
course to the Susquehannah, and along that stream, prin- 
cipally on the eastern bank, to 18 miles beyond Wilkes- 
barre. It runs south to the Lehigh River, and thence 
south-west, through Schuylkill county. 

It IS estimated to extend about 100 miles; and about 
the middle of the range is 8 or 9 miles wide, growing 
narrower towards each end. At Mount Carbon the coal 
occurs in beds 4 or 5 feet in thickness, generally running 
east and west ; and dipping to the south at 45^', with a 
slate rock immediately over it, and strata of sandstone 
and earth above. The slate, as usual, in the vicinity of 
coal, presents the impressions of organized substances at 
some ancient period imbedded in its substance : such as 
the leaves ot lauiei, fern, 8lc. 

In consequence of the inclination of the coal veins into 
the earth, the miners have, in some places, sunk shafts 
to the depth of 150 feet, with lateral excavations, east 
and west, of various lengths to 300. Two small carria- 
ges called Trams, are used in a sloping shaft to bring the 
coal out, being made to descend by turns ; but in the 
horizontal one, which has been carried in about 500 feet, 
they employ wheel barrows. Some of the veins run per- 
pendicularly. 

There were ten or eleven coal mines worked at Mount 
Carbon in 1825 ; which employed from 5 to 30 work- 
men each. Some of them are worked night and day. 
The coal is dug out with wedges, drills, and sledges, &c. 
and as it costs only about $50 to open a mine, and no- 
thing else but labour in digging and raising it, the ad- 
vantages are not confined to capitalists. Wagoners are 
ready to transport the coal to the landings, and put it 
into boats. 

There is a steam engine at the Peacock mines, by 
which the coal is raised and the water pumped out that 
is supplied by springs in the earth. These mines consist 
of four shafts, 60 or 70 feet apart, and the engine works 
in them all at once. The canal has been extended up to 
lI2 



;j84 ROUTE TO THE COAL MINES. 

Mill Creek, which will supply great quantities of co;-. 
A rail road, from 5 to 8 miles long, is designed to be ex- 
tended from Schuylkill River to the mines on the West 
Branch. In 1823 there were but 5 houses at Mount 
Carbon ; and in 1827 more than 100, with 1200 inhabi- 
tants, beside the landing. 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines 
At Mauch Chunk. 

The traveller going from Philadelphia to the Lehigh 
Mines^moy take one of the steamboats to Bristol, whence 
a stage coach starts, on their arrival, for Newtown and 
New Hope, 34 miles from Philadelphia ; and thence for 
Easton, 36 miles more, nearly all of which is along the 
bank of the Delaware, and commands a view of its wild 
and interesting scenery. 

There are three routes from Philadelphia by which 
Mauch Chunk may be reached : 1st. By the way of 
Bethlehem. 2d. By tlie way of Easton through Doyles- 
town — and 3d. By the way of Bristol, also through Eas- 
ton. By either route you reach the village in a day and 
a half. [For these places, see Index.] 

New Hope is m a romantic situation ; and Goat Hill 
rises opposite to the height of 500 feet, its top affording 
a fine view. 2 miles south of this village is Ingham's 
Spring, which furnishes a supply of water to no less than 
13 water wheels. Bridges cross the Delaware to New- 
Jersey at New-Hope and Mitchell's. 

Delaware Water Gap. The scenery at this spot is 
beautiful. See the print. The course of the river appears 
at a little distance as if arrested by two opposite moun- 
tains, between which it flows in a narrow channel, sud- 
denly contracting itself to a furlong's breadth from a 
broad, smooth, and unbroken sheet like a lake of consid- 
erable extent. Every feature in this beautiful scene 
leads one to believe, that the barrier opposed to the wa- 
ter was once much higher than now, and that the coun- 
try was consequently overflown for a considerable dis- 
tance above the existing banks. There is some fertile 



IJELAWARE AND HUDSON CANAL, 383 

land in the vicinity, and the hills contain many mineral 
treasures ; iron ore, &;c. &c, 

EASTON. 

This is a village of some size, and a central point 
from which numerous roads diverge, and stage coaches 
run in various directions. It is situated in a rich valley, 
enclosed by the South and Blue Mountains. It is about 52 
miles from Philadelphia and contains about 3000 inhabi- 
tants. Within a compass of a mile and a half are 18 
mills ; and 250,000 barrels of flour are annually sent to 
the capital. Nearly 150,000 bushels of grain are also 
consumed at the distilleries in a year, and converted into 
poison for the body and the mind. 

The following is a list of distances from Easton on the 
different stage routes. IS ew- York, 70 miles ; Scholey's 
Mountain, 23; Morristown, 41 ; New-Brunsv/ick, 45; 
Bethlehem, 12 ; Mauch Chunk, 34 ; Nazareth, 7 ; Dela- 
ware Wind Gap, 12 ; Water Gap, 20 ; Stroudsburgh, 
27 ; Wilkesbarre, 52 ; Belvidere, 12 ; Reading, 52 ; 
Newtown, (Sussex county,) 40. 

From Newtown a coach runs three times a week, to 
Montrose, Owego, Ithaca, and Geneva, and communi- 
cates v/ith the Erie canal, and with the direct route to 
Buftalo. 

[The Delaware and Hudson Canal 

was begun July 13th, 1825. It commences at Kingston 
on the Hudson river, and runs over to the Delaware 
»iver, through the valley of the Neversink creek, thence 
up the valley of the Delaware to the Lackawaxen creek, 
and up that creek to the foot of the railway. This is a 
continuous canal of 117 miles in length, and was com- 
pleted from the Delaware to the Hudson last autumn, 
and it is expected the whole line will be completed by 
July of this year. (1828.) The railway commences at 
the termination of the canal, and runs over Moosick 
mountain to the coal mines on the Lackawana creek, 



386 ROUTE TO THE COAL MINES. 

in length 16 1-2 miles, overcoming an elevation of 858 
feet. Seven locomotive steam enguies will be employ- 
ed on three planes, and five stationary engines and three 
brakes on the ascents. The ascents where the stationary 
engines and brakes are used, are graduated at 5 degrees. 
The railway and all its appurtenances, will be completed 
in 1828, at an estimated expense of |178,000. The cost 
of each locomotive engine, about 1 1,600, and weight 
about six tons. 

Carbondale is the mining village on the Lackawana 
River, opened by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Com- 
pany. It is 8 miles from DundafF, and 32 from Wilkes- 
barre.] 

At Easton will be seen the Dam over the Delaware, 
at the termination of the works for improving the navi- 
gation of Lehigh River, from Mauch Chunk to thi» 
place. The state of Pennsylvania intend to extend the 
navigation, by a canal on the western bank of the Dela- 
ware, to Bristol, when the communication will be un- 
interrupted to Philadelphia. 

The road to Mauch Chunk leads through Bethle- 
hem, 12 miles. This is a neatly built place in a roman- 
tic and delightful situation, along the course of a swift 
running brook. It is inhabited by Gei'mans, and little 
English will be heard spoken in the place There is aa 
old church and an academy for the education of girls, 
under the management of the Moravians, to which sect 
the inhabitants belong. A little beyond Bethlehem the 
country begins to assume a more mountainous appear- 
ance ; and along the banks of the Lehigh they rise to a 
height of seven or eight hundred feet, or even more. 

The works on the Lehigh Ptiver are on a large scale, 
and worthy of particular remark. The river descends 
365 feet, and requires 52 locks. The locks are intended 
for the passage of steamboats capable of carrying 150 
tons of coal. They will all be 100 feet long and 30 
wide. There will be 21 dams ; and the canals will be 
60 feet wide at the bottom, with 5 feet of water. The 
view of these works of art, combined with distant sights 
of the Blue Ridge, renders the ride highly interesting 



MAUCH CHUNK. 387 

The locks are on a new construction, and can be filled 
and emptied both in seven minutes by one attendant. 
The gate, like a great float, is raised when the water is 
let in ; and, the post being turned round, the water flows 
over the top of the gate, when it gradually sinks again. 
Mauch Chunk shows mountains perhaps 1000 feet high. 

The Lehigh Water Gap, 25 miles from Easton and 11 
from Lehighton^ 6 miles from Mauch Chunk. Here is 
a bridge. 

The first objects that attract attention near the village 
of Maucli Chunk, are the lock in the river, and the 
Chute, or inclined plane, at the end of the railway, 
down which the loaded coal cars slide to the wharf on 
the river, where they load the boats and arks. The latter 
carry about 10 tons. The noise of the cars coming 
down the railway will often be heard rumbling as the 
traveller approaches the village. 

Mauch Chunk, 
90 miles from New-York and II from Philadelphia, 

There is a spacious hotel in this young and flourishing 
village, which has been well kept, and serves as the ren- 
dezvous for numerous parties of visiters every season. 
There are few places where a stranger will find more to 
gratify him than here. The village is shut in by rude 
mountains, of such height that the fuu is invisible to 
many of the inhabitants during the short days. The 
hotel commands a view of some parts of 

The Railway, 

which leads from near the coal mines to the Lehigh 
River. This was the second ever constructed in the 
United States — the Quincy Railway, in Massachusetts, 
being the first. It extends a distance of nine miles, along 
the side of a mountain. 

The sleepers, on which the railway rests, are of wood, 
which is found a very economical substitute for the iron 
used in England. The rails are also of wood. 4 by 6 



388 THE COAL MINES. 

inches, and covered with an iron plate | of an inch thick. 
The whole construction cost, on a fair estimate, only 
f 4,500 a mile ; while the lowest estimate for a road on 
the English plan was ^10,000 a mile. 

The coal mine lies a little on the opposite side of the 
mountain ; and the coal cars are first draAvn by horses 
to the beginning of the railway up an acclivity of 5-8ths 
of a mile. The summit is 982 feet above the river. The 
whole work was performed in 2 months and 2 days. 

Pleasure wagons, like Dearborns, are occasionally 
used to carry strangers up and down the railway ; but 
they often go up in the returning cars. The average 
rise of the way is 18 inches in 100 feet, which is scarcely 
perceptible to the eye, and permits a single horse to draw 
up three empty cars. In coming down, however, by 
their own gravity, the carriages would, if permitted, 
move with immense rapidity. In 1827 they were re- 
stricted to a rate not exceeding 8 miles an hour. It is 
said that they had previously gone 15 and even 20. 
The road generally passes along a narrow shelf, which is 
alarming to a stranger, particularly m descending ; some 
of the precipices being 500 or 600 feet. 

The Tunnel is seen in going up, about 400 feet above 
the road. It is 12 feet high, 20 wide, and about 800 long. 
It was cut through the mountain in 1826, to obtain 
a short passage to a bed of coal supposed to lie on 
the other side. A shaft was sunk sixty -four feet from 
the summit of the hill without finding coal ; five hun- 
dred feet beyond this shaft towards the north, a hole 
lias been bored to the depth of one hundred and ten 
feet ; coal was found at eighty feet, and the auger con- 
tinued in coal to the extremity of the bore. The Com- 
pany, however, were disappointed : but they have an inex- 
haustible supply of this useful article, as their land ex- 
tends 14 miles back from the river, and along the road ; 
and 10 or 12 miles are underlaid by beds of anthracite 
coal. When the Lehigh, the Delaware Canal and the 
Morris Canal in New-Jersey shall all be navigable, New- 
York and Philadelphia will derive immense supplies of 
fuel from this wonderful region. 



MAUCH CHUNK RAILWAY, o8'J 

The cars are made of strong oak timbers, and planked 
up on three sides, with a swinging door in the rear. 
Some new ones, however, have lately been constructed, 
in which stout sheet iron has been substituted for plank. 
They are 6 feet 4 inches long, 3 feet wide at top, and 2 
feet at bottom, and about 3 feet in depth, resting on 
wheels with cast iron rims or fellies 2 feet in diameter^ 
one inch thick, and about four inches in breadth, with a 
strong edge or flanch, one inch in thickness, and about 
two inches wide, which prevents them from slipping off 
the rails. The cars may be stopped immediately oy a 
long lever which brings strong bearers against two of 
the wheels, and causes great friction. The guide to 
every brigade of eleven cars holds a rope attached to all 
the levers. A curious machine, called the Brake, is also 
used. 

There is generally a stop to be made in the midst of 
the course, to wait for other cars passing, and to oil the 
wheels. 

Several ingenious expedients have been resorted to in 
different parts of the rail road, to avoid some incon- 
veniences which might otherwise be caused by sudden 
turns, right angles, cross-roads, bridges, &;c. The rail- 
way is in several parts supported by a stone wall at the 
side. Cross-roads are Jiot intercepted by it, for the rails 
are interrupted so as to correspond with the ruts ; at 
the short turns, one rail is raised in a curve of a few 
inches to give the car a new direction ; and at a right 
angle, like those at the mine and at the chute above the 
Lehigh, revolving platforms are placed which turn the 
cars round, 45 degrees. 

The cars themselves weigh about 1500 lbs. each, and 
run on wheels two feet in diameter. Strangers often 
make an excursion in them for the novelty of the mode 
of travelling. In 1827, not less than 150 such cars were 
in use. They carry the coal to the Chute above the 
river, down which, they are sent 215 feet. 

At the end of the Rail road is a platform on the bank 
of the Lehigh river, down which the coal is let over one 
of the rails on an inclined plane of 750 feet, (200 feet 



390 THE COAL MINES. 

perpendicular height,) to the stone houses, the wharf 
and the boats. Each loaded car is connected to an 
empty one, which it draws up, by a rope that passes round 
a large cylinder or drum. A car goes down in about 1 
minute and 20 seconds. The noise of the cars on the 
railway is perceptible at a great distance. In 1827, 132 
cars descended in a day, with 198 tons of coal. 

The Mine^ or quarry as it ought, perhaps, properly to 
be called, opens upon the road by three passages cut 8 
or 10 feet deep in the earth. These conduct into an area 
150 yards long and 90 wide, and from 8 to 35 feet in. 
depth, formed with great regularity, by the removal of 
about 30,000 tons of coal, which iiave been dug out in 
such a manner as to keep the surface on an inclined 
plane, where the carts drive in, load, and then pass out 
at the other passag'e. The coal is very hard, pure and 
black, with a beautiful conchoidal fracture, and perfectly 
clean in handling. The middle, an area 50 yards across, 
has been dug down about 20 feet deeper, and to it there 
is another entrance from the road. 

The surface of tJie ground was covered with a coat of 
sand 2 feet thick, interspersed with sand stone •, under 
that was 8 feet of black pulverized coal ; and then came 
the coal itself. Near the road is a mass of slaty coal in 
undulated strata which is of inferior quality. 

Near the south or farther side of the mine, some beau- 
tiful impressions of fern leaves have been found in the 
rocks. 



BORDENTOWN. 391 



ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

The steam boats go from Market and Arch-street 
wharves. 

Leaving Philadelphia, in the steam boat for New- 
York, the ship house, in the navy yard, is seen over the 
little island in the river. Near the upper part of the city 
are the ship yards ; and beyond, three glass houses near 
the water, vvith white walls and black roofs. A steeple 
and a shot tower are the principal objects rising above 
the great mass of houses in the city. 

The banks of the Delaware are low, and present an 
uniformity quite unfriendly to the picturesque. The 
towns are, however, interesting in the history of the 
revolution, as will be seen a little beyond. 

Burlington, 

in New- Jersey, 18 miles from Philadelphia, presents a 
handsome appearance ; with a row of fine residences 
facing the river, in front of which is a street with a 
beautiful sloping bank. 

Bristol, 

a little above, and on the opposite side, has also a num- 
ber of gentlemen's seats ; and handsome flower gar- 
dens on the bank, ornamented with fine willows, &c. 

BoRDENTOWN, 

28 miles from Philadelphia, and 7 below Trenton, 
stands on a steep sand bank, through which a road is 
cut to the water. Just north of the village is the house 
of Joseph Bonaparte, the Count de Survilliers, once 
king of Spain. It is a long white building with two 
low square towers at the ends, and a shot tower near it 
by the river. 

Coal Haven is a little cove on the west side of the ri- 
M m 



392 FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

vcr, six miles above, where arks and boats laden with 
coal from the Lehigh mines await the boats that tow 
them to Philadelphia. 

Trenton, 

33 miles from Philadelphia. Here the Union Line steam- 
boats stop, except when the water is low ; when they 
sometimes land opposite Bordentown. Trenton is a 
town of considerable size, with a great number of stores, 
and the aspect of business. The bridge across the Del- 
aware has 5 arches, and is a handsome structure. 

Lamberton is a village where the coach offices are, and 
apparently forms a part of Trenton. 

The State Prison is situated a little south of the 
town. 

In Dec. 1776, the English had 4000 men on the east 
side of tlie Delaware, in Trenton, Bordentown, Black- 
horse, and Burlington, with strong detachments at Prince- 
ton and New Briaiswick, with their magazines. 

On Christmas night, three divisions of the American 
troops attempted to cross the Delaware : one at Bristol 
for Burlington; one a mile below Trenton; and one nine 
miles above, under Washington and Greene. This was 
the largest, but principally militia ; it approached Tren- 
ton by two roads, attacking it at 8, A. M. very unex- 
pectedly, and putting the English and German troops 
(about 1500) to the rout. 500 escaped ; the rest surren- 
dered, being the regiments of Raile, Anspach, and Knyp- 
hausen. Ralle was killed in resisting. The other 
divisions could not cross on account of the ice, and Wash- 
ington returned with his captives and six pieces of artil- 
lery. This successful stroke greatly encouraged the coun- 
try, as it was the first victory over those German mer- 
cenaries. 

Washington soon after re-crossed the river, and post- 
ed his army at Trenton. On the 2d of Jan. 1777, Lord 
Cornwallis reached Trenton ; and Washington fortified 
himself on the Assumpsick. But he was too weak to 
hazard an engagement ; and the Delaware was filled 
with ice 



I'HINCETOX. 393 

Being hardly pressed, Washington had formed the plan 
of a retreat, expecting to be unable to remove any thing 
but the soldiers and what they could carry, as the soil 
was so unfavourable, and the weather so mild and wet, 
that wagons could not pass. Cornwallis had sent to 
Princeton for a regiment to join him, that he might at- 
tack the Americans immediately. In the night, howev- 
er, Gen. Greene reported that the weather had suddenly 
become cold ; and at midnight, Washington was able to 
begin his march, with all his baggage and artillery. This 
was done, and all the fires left burning. The British had 
no intimation of their departure until they heard the guns 
firing at Princeton. 

PRINCETON, 10 miles. 

This village is situated on an elevated ridge of land, 
which, on several sides, rises with a long and easy slope, 
and commands a prospect of considerable extent. 

In approaching it from the west, the Theological Aca- 
demy, which is of stone and 4 stories high, is seen on the 
right ; and J^assau Hall in the centre of the town, op- 
posite the stage house. The college yard is large and 
shaded with trees ; and the burying ground contains the 
ashes of the presidents of the institution : Aaron Burr, 
Jonathan Edwards, Samuel Davis, Samuel Finley, John 
Witherspoon, and Samuel S. Smith. 

Washington was met at Stoney Brook, north of the 
present road, a little way from Princeton, and defeated 
the British regiment. He then marched north to the 
high grounds. 

During the battle of Princeton, it is related that a can- 
non shot entered the chapel, and tore away the head from 
a portrait of George III. 

New Brunswick. Here the steam boats start for 
New- York. The stage coaches drive through a part of 
the village to the steam boat wharf. The forenoon line 
stops at the hotel for the night. 

The view is pretty from the hill above ; whence the 
public buildings appear to good advantage, particularly 



394 STATEN ISLAND. 

the Theological Seminary, which is under the synod of 
the Dutch Reformed Church. The banks below are 
picturesque, but afterwa-rds are low and iittie varied. 

In the spring of 1777, Washington advanced from near 
Morristown to Middlebrook, where he entrenched him- 
self, on the heights, in full view of New-Brunswick. The 
British tried various stratagems to decoy him from this 
commanding position, and once succeeded ; but discov- 
ering their intentions to surround him, he quickly regain- 
ed it, and they were soon after obliged to give up all 
hopes of penetrating in this direction, and devoted their 
attention to co-operating with Gen. Burgoyne, who 
was coming down towards Albany. 

Perth Ambov, 13 miles. Here is usually some ship- 
ping ; but the place has little to attract observation. 

Elizabethtown Point, 15 miles from New-York. 
The village is partly seen about 2 miles inland. 

Staten Island is large and elevated, with but few 
inhabitants, and a small cluster of houses. 

On entering New-York Bay, Fort Lafayette is seen in 
the Narrows, between Staten and Long Island, which is 
the passage to the sea. The city presents a close mass 
of houses, with Castle Williams on Governor's Island, 
seen near it on the right ; and Ellis's and Bedlow's Is- 
lands on the left with their fortifications. On approach- 
ing, the prominent objects are the tall pyramidal steeple 
of Trinity church, the more ornamented one of St. 
Paul's, and the distant top of the Catholic cathedral, &c. 
&;c. The clusters of trees observed on the shore in front 
of the city, are on the Battery : a place once fortified, 
but now the principal public square ; and Castle Clinton 
just west of it has been converted into a place of amuj^o- 
mcnt. 



187i 


do. 


1000 


do. 


1250 


do. 


777 1-8 do. 


333 1- 


.do. 


750 


do. 


400 


do. 


400 


do. 


4000 


do. 


1000 


do. 



APPENDIX. 395 

FOREIGN MONIES. 

Reduced into those of the United States, atpar value. 

n British Sterling is 4,444 4-9 Mills. 

n Irish is 4,102 32-39 do. 

1 fr. or 100 centimes (French) is 

$1 of plate or 20 reals plate (Cadiz) is 

^1 of Havana 8 do. 

1 millrea of Portugal or 1000 reas is 

1 Ducat or 100 grains (Naples) is 

1 Mark Banco or 16 shill. (Ham.) is 

1 Rix Dol. or 12 grotes (Bremen) is 

1 Guilder or 40 grotes (Antwerp) is 

1 Florin or 20 stivers of (Holland) is 

II Halifax Currency (N. A. Prov.) is 

Zl dollar or 8 reals (Havana) is 

FOREIGN WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

Reduced into those of the United States. 

Great Britain is generally the same. The new Im- 
perial measure, however, is about 3 per cent larger than 
the Winchester, 22 gallons of the old being e([ual to 31 
of the new imperial — one quarter contains 8 Winches- 
ter or American bushels. The fodder of Lead in Lon- 
don and Hull is 19^ cwt. The tun of Oil, 252 gallons. 
—The last of Tar, 12 barrels. The load of Timber 50 
cubic feet. 
FRANCE— 45 35 100 Kilogrammes are equal to 100 

lbs. 
SPAIN — 1 arrobe is 25 lbs. Spanish equal to 24 

4 arrobes, 1 quintal, 96 

The barra varies from 27^ to 33 1-8 ins. 

The same of Cadiz is 27i 

The arrobe of Wine and Oil is 4 gals. 

From 40 to 41 arrobes make 1 pipe. 

1 Fanega of Corn and Salt is ^ bus. and 1 quart. 

15 Fanegas are about 8 bus. 

M m 2 



J96 



APPENDIX, 



PORTUGAL— 32 lbs. or 1 arrobe is 33 lbs. 

4 arrobes or 1 quintal is 132 

Cloth meas. 1 vara 43 1-7 ins. the covido 26 1-3 ins. 
Wine 4 quarteels are 1 Canado or 3 pints. 

12 Canados 1 almuda or 4i gals. 

The moy of corn and Salt at Lisbon is 24 bus. 

" " at Oporto 30 

" " in Figuieras 55i 

HAMBURG— 1 lb. equal to 1 lb. 7 oz. 

1 lispound 16 5 

ANT WERP— 100 lbs. or quintal is 104 lbs. 

New qlt. of 10 myriagrammes 204 lbs. 14 oz. 

Canada and Nova Scotia same as the United States. 

XeW'York Comparative. Price Current. 

POUNDS AND DOLLARS. 



Sterling. 




Cents. 


Mill 


Id. 


is 


1 


85 


2 


is 


3 


70 


3 


is 


5 


55 


4 


is 


7 


49 


5 


is 


9 


25 


6 


is 


11 


11 


7 


is 


12 


96 


8 


is 


14 


81 


9 


is 


16 


66 


10 


is 


18 


51 


11 


is 


20 


36 


12 


IS 


22 


22 



IND 


EX. 




A 




Bartlett 


3,21 


Ackland, Major^ 


137 


Basin Harbour 


179 


Lady Harriet^ 


137 


Batavia 


101 


Albany 30, 37 


Bath (Maine) 


34{i 


Alexandria, (D. C.) 


357 


(JV. H.) 


276 


Amboy 


394 


(JV. F.) 


IS 


Amherst 


264 


Battle of Bemis's 




Andre's Grave 


17 


Heights 


121 


Capture and Exec'n 


21 


Bennington 


120 


Andover 


310 


Bloody Brook 


265 


Anthony's Nose, Hud- 




Bridgewater, or 


Lun- 


son River 


19 


dy's Lane 


78 


on Erie Canal 


47 


Bunker's Hill 


299 


Lake George 


167 


Chippewa 


76 


Antiquities 62, 71, 99 


, 102 


Erie 


88 


Aqueduct, Lower, 


AF> 


Groton 


280 


Upper, 


45 


Johnstown 


47 


at Little Falls, 


50 


Lake George 


160 


Rochester 


63 


Lexington 


309 


Arnold's Treachery 


21 


Montmorency 


219 


Armory 


256 


Pequod 


280 


Arsenals 




Plattsburgh 


181 


Troy, 


39 


Princeton 


393 


Quebec, 


210 


Quebec 


214 


Ascutney Mountain 


371 


Do. in 1775 


215 


Assomption River 


200 


Queenstown 


69 


Attleborough 


294 


Rocky Brook 


155 


Auburn 


107 


Sachem's Field 


28«> 






Saratoga 


121. 


B 




Ticonderoga 


164 


Baker's Falls 


232 


Trenton 


392 


Ballstou Springs 


133 


Turner's Falls 


267 


Baltimore 


360 


White Plains 


16 


Bangor 


352 


Beaufort 


218 



rj9y 



Bellows Falls 269 
Bethlehem 386 
Beverly 337 
Bightown 196 
Black Rock 96 j 
Bloody Brook 265; 
Pond 1551 
Bloomfield 102J 
Blue Hills 294] 
Books recommended 12 1 
Borough 1161 
Boston 297; 
Bordentown 391! 
Brattleborough 268 
Bristol 391 
Brock's Monument 70 1 
Battery 213 
Brookfield 306 
Buffalo 96 
Bunker's Hill 299 
Burgoyne's (Gen.) Ex- 
pedition 118 
Battle Ground 123 
Quarters 130 
Retreat 129 
Surrender 149 
Burlington (JV. J.) 391 
{Vermont) 179, 274 
((7. Canada) 86 



Caldwell 156 

Canada, General Re- 
marks on., 184 
Canals. 
Blackstone Canal 291 
Cayuga and Susq'h 107 
Champlain 115 
Erie 37, 44 
Farmin^ton 237 



Maine 


34{: 


Massachusetts 


252 


Morris 


11 


Pennsylvania 


373 


Rideau 


196 


Vermont (proposed) 


273 


Welland 


79 


Canal Boat, Descrip- 




tion of. 


38 


Canajoharie 


48 


Canandaigua 


103 


Cape Diamond 


207 


Carthage 


64 


Catskill 


25 


Mountains 


24 


Caughnawaga 


46 


Cayuga Lake 


105 


Centre Harbour 


316 


Chambly 


225 


Charlestown (Mass.) 


299 


(j\; H.) 


270 


Chazy 


132 


Chelmsford 


312 


Chimney Point 


176 


Chippewa 


76 


Cincinnati 


365 


Cleaveland 


98 


Coal Mines of Pa. 382, &c. 


R. Island 


289 


Colleges. 




Amherst 


264 


Andover 


310 


Brown 


290 


Burlington 


180 


Cambridge 


309 


Dartmouth 


275 


Hamilton 


52 


Union 


45 


Washington 


250 



399 



Yale 


236 


Concord 


313 


Congress Hall 


142 


Spring 


144 


Connecticut River 


242 


Navigation of do. 


252 


Conway 


321 


Crawford's House 


330 


Crown Point 


176 


D 




Deaf and Dumb Asy- 




lums 8, 49 


,249 


Dedham 


294 


Deerfield 


266 


Dieskau (Gen.) 


161 


Dobb's Ferry 


17 


Dorchester Heights 


300 


Dover 


313 


Dunning-strcct 


117 


E 




East Bay 


228 


East Canada Creek 


48 


Eastport 


351 


East River 


284 


Eair'ton 


385 


Elizabethtown 


394 


Essex (Conn.) 


242 


(JV. F.) 


180 


F 




Fairfield 


232 


Falls. 




Baker's 


232 


Bellows 


269 


Carthage 


63 


Catskill 


27 


Clnverack 


28 



Glenn's 


163 


Cohoes 


44 


Ithaca 


106 


Little 


49 


Miller's 


232 


Montmorency 


17 


Niagara 


272 


Rochester 


64 


South Hadley 


257 


Trenton 


52 


Turner's 


267 


Fishkill Mountain 


23 


Framingham 


306 


Franconia 


277 


Frazer's Death 


131 


Grave 


129 


Forts. 




Adams 


287 


Anne 


229 


Clinton 


18 


Crown Point 


176 


Edward 


231 


Erie 


88 


Green 


288 


Griswold 


279 


Herkimer 


51 


Independence 


17 


Lee 


15 


Miller 


232 


Mohawk's 


46,58 


Montgomery 


18 


Niagara 


70 


Oswego 


93 


Plain 


48 


Putnam 


19 


Saybrook 


241 


Stanwix 


54 


Ticonderoga 


164 


Trumbull 


279 


Washington 


15 



400 



INDEX. 



Willam Henry 


163 


Hunt's Farm 


270 


Wolcott 


287 


Hydrostatic Locks 


42 


Fryeburgh 


322 


I 

Indians. 




G 






Galloway 


139 


Menominies 


99 


Gatf s's (Gen.) Camp 


121 


Mohawks 


46 


Geddesburgh 


60 


Mohegans 


283 


Genesee River 62, 91 


Fokanokets 


288 


Geneseo 


102 


Oneidas 


55 


Geneva 


104 


Pequods 


233 


Georgetown (D. C.) 


357 


Senecas 


100 


Gerrxian Flats 


51 


Tuscororas 


67 


Glenn's Falls 


153 


Ithaca 


106 


Grand River 


81 


J 




Green Bay 


99 


Jacques Cartier 


206 


Greenfield 


267 


Jarvis's Farm 


270 


Gulf Road 


271 


Johnson {Sir TV7n.) 


47 






Johnstown 


46 


H 




Junction 


43 


Haddam 


243 






Hadley 


264 


K 




Hallowel 


353 


Kennebunk 


344 


Hambugh 


381 


Kidd, the Pirate 


240 


Hampton 


341 


Kinderhook 


29 


Hanover 


275 


Kmgsbridge 


233 


Harlem 


16 


Kingston 


24 


Hartford (Conn.) 


248 


Kosciusko's Retreat 


20 


(Vermont) 


179 


Ktardin Mountain 


352 


Hatfield 


264 






M aver hill (Mass.) 


311 


L 




(J^. H.) 


276 


Lachine 


195 


Hell Gate 


234 


Lafayette Spring 


134 


Herkimer 


51 


Lakes. 




(Gen,) 


54 


Cayuga 


105 


Highlands 


18 


Canandaigua 


103 


Hoboken 


14 


Champlain 


174 


Horseneck 


233 


Erie 87, 98 


Hudson 


27 


George 


156 


River 


14 


Do. Excursion to. 


153 



INDEX. 



401 



Of the Clouds 

Ontario 

St, Peter 

Saratoga 

Seneca 

Winnipiseogee 
Lancaster 
Laprairie 
Lead Mines 
Lebanon Springs 
Leroy 
Lewiston 
Lexington 
Little Falls 
Little Schuylkill 
Lockport 
Long-Branch 
Long Level 
Lorette 
Lovel's Fight 

Pond 
Lowell 

Lundy's Lane 
Lynn 

M 
M'Crea's Murder 
M'Donough's Victory 
Machiche 

Maitland's (Sir P.") Res- 
idence 
Manayunk 

Maps. 
See bediming ol 

lume. 
Marblehead 
Mauch Chunk 
Mechanicvilie 
IMiantonimo 



333 


Michigan 


98 


91 


Middletovvn 


244 


204 


Military Academy — 




146 


West Point 


20 


105 


Mohawk 


48 


316 


Mohegan 


283 


277 


Montmorency 


217 


187 


Montpelier 


273 


246 


Montreal 


188 


32 


Morristown 


94 


102 


Mount Carbon 


382 


67 


Holyoke 


261 


309 


Hope 


288 


49 


Vernon 


357 


14 


Washington 


330 


66 


Nahant 


302 


11 


Newark 


12 


51 


New-Brunswick 


394 


221 


Newburgh 


23 


322 


Newburyport 


340 


323 


New-Haven 


235 


311 


New-Lebanon Springs 32 


78 


New-London 


279 


337 


Newport 


286 




New-York 


7 




Niagara Falls from Ame- 


231 


rican side 


67 


181 


Canada side 


72 


200 


Norristown 


379 


s- 


Norwich 


234 


71 


Northampton 


258 


378 


Notch in the Mour 


i- 




tains 


329 




House 


326 


vo- 


Ogdensburgh 


94 




Oneida 


55 


339 


Orange Springs 


11 


387 


Orwigsburgh 


382 


116 


Oswego 


92 


286 


Canal 


5Ti 



402 



Ottawa River 
Ox Bow 
Packet Ships 
Palatine 
Palisadoes 
Pawtucket 
Perth Amboy 
Philadelphia 



196 

276 
10 
49 
15 

292 
394 
366 



Pick waket Mountain 321 

Piermont 276 

Pine Orchard 25 

Pittsburgh 364 

Plainfield 236 

Plains of Abraham 214 

Plattsburgh 180 

Plymouth 304 

Port Genesee 91 

Port Maitland 80 

Port Kent 180 

Port Dalhousie 84 

Portland 344 

Portsmouth 341 

Poughkeepsie 24 

Princeton 393 

Prisons. {State) 

Connecticut 247 

Maine 350 

Massachusetts 299 

New-York 15, 17, 108 

New-Hampshire 314 

Pennsylvania 367 

Vermont 271 

Providence 289 

Q 

Quebec 208 

Queenstown 69 

Quincy 294 

R 

Rapids of Niagara 73 



Richelieu 20^ 

St. Mary 200 

Red Mountain 316 

Reidesel, Baroness ]30 

Rensselaerwyck 38 

Ridge Road 65 

Railroads, 

Albany 32 

Quincy ^ 294 

Baltimore and Ohio 362 

Mauch Chunk 387 

Rochester 62 

Rouse's Point 182 

Roxbury 295 

Royalton 272 

S 

Saco 344 

Sackett's Harbour 93 

St. Catherine's 84 

St. John's 183 

St. Lawrence, 20l 

Salem 337 

Salina 59 

Salt Springs 60 

Sandusky 98 

Saratoga 141 

Saybrook 240 

Schenectady 45 

Schoharie Creek 46 
Scholey's Mountain 

Springs 11 

Schuylersvilie 148 

Schuylkill River 378 

Water Works 370 

Shaker Village 35 

Sorel Village 203 

South Bay 227 

S J) rings. 

Albany 31 



BaL'ston 


133 


V 




Burning 7G 


,103 


Vernon (Mount) 


357 


Chalybeate 


322 


Verplanck's Point 


18 


New-Lebanon 


32 






Saratoga 


141 


W 




Suffield 


255 


Wadsworth's Farm 


102 


White Mountains 


322 


VValpole (N. H.) 


269 


Springfield 


266 


(Mass.) 


294 


Squam Lake 


320 


Ware 


307 


Stafford 


344 


Washington 


355 


Staten Island 


21 


Wachusett Hills 


253 


Stillwater 


117 


Waterford 


115 


Stonington 


281 


Water Gaps 381,384,387 


Stonev Point 


18 


Weehawken 


15 


Suffield 


255 


Weigh Locks 


42 


Sugar-LoafHill 


265 


Welland Canal 


79 


Syracuse 


57 


Welles 


343 






West Point 


20 


T 




W^ethersfield (Con.) 


247 


Table Rock 


72 


(Ver.) 


270 


Tariffville 


250 


Whirlpool 


71 


Tarryto wn 


17 


Whitehall 


228 


Trenton 


392 


White Mountains 


325 


Thames River 


282 


River 


272 


Thimble Islands 


239 


Williamstown 


229 


Thomastown 


350 


Wilmington (Del.) 


363 


Three Rivers 


204 


Windsor (Con. ) 


254 


Ticonderoga 169 


,226 


(Ver.) 


271 


Route to Maine 


336 


Wiscassett 


349 


of New-England 


233 


Wolfe's Cove 


207 


to Niagara 


13 


Wood Creek, near L. 




to the Pennsylvania 




Champlain 


230 


Coal Mines 


376 


Worcester 


25,2 


to Canada 


170 






to the White Moun- 




Y 




tains 


309 


York (U. C.) 


87 


Troy 


40 


(Maine) 


343 


U 

Uncas 284,286 
Utica 52 


Z 

Zanesville 


364 



>?-t. 



'"l^-p-'WX^ 



